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74 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Front Bodice:
A to B= _______________, plus 1/8" Draw the line and label |
Full Length
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Front Bodice:
A to C=__________, less 1/8" Square 3" down from C line |
Across Shoulder
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Front Bodice:
B to D =__________ Mark and square out 4" |
Center Front Length
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Front Bodice:
B to E = __________, plus 1/4" Square out from B, and then square up 11" from E |
Bust Arc
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Front Bodice:
B to G = __________, plus 1/8". G touches C line |
Shoulder Slope
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Front Bodice:
G to H = __________ Mark on the G-B line. |
Bust Depth
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Front Bodice:
G to I = __________ Square down from I to intersect with D line |
Shoulder Length
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Front Bodice:
J to K = __________, plus 1/4" Square from J at center front through H to K. |
Bust Span
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Front Bodice:
D to L = __________. Mark down from D |
One half of D to J
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Front Bodice:
L to M = __________, plus 1/4" Square a guideline up and down from M |
Across Chest
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Front Bodice:
B to F = __________. Square down 3/16" from F |
Dart Placement
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Front Bodice:
I to N = __________, plus 1/8' Draw line from I to intersect E line. |
New Strap
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Front Bodice:
N to O = __________. |
Side Length
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Front Bodice:
N to P = __________. |
Mark 1 1/4 inch out from N.
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Front Bodice:
O to P = |
Side length line is directed to P, and ends when equal to N to O. Draw line from P to F.
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Front Bodice:
P to Q = __________, plus 1/4" ease, less B to F__________. |
Waist Arc
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Front Bodice:
Dart Legs |
Draw a line from K to F and measure. Draw dart leg from K through Q equal to K to F. Label R.
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Front Bodice:
Dart Point |
Center a point 5/8 inch from bust point.
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Front Bodice:
Draw slight curved lines from __________ |
B to F and R to P
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Front Bodice:
Best Cup formula: Test Fit |
A Cup: N-P 7/8"
B Cup: N-P 1 1/4" C Cup: N-P 1 1/2" D Cup: N-P 1 3/4" |
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Back Bodice:
A to B = __________. |
Full Length
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Back Bodice:
A to C = __________. Square 3 inches down from C. |
Across Shoulder
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Back Bodice:
B to D =__________. Mark and square out 4 inches. |
Center Back Length
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Back Bodice:
B to E = __________, plus 3/4 inch. Square up from E |
Back Arc
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Back Bodice:
A to F = __________, plus 1/8 inch. |
Back Neck
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Back Bodice:
B to G = __________, plus 1/8 inch. |
Shoulder Slope
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Back Bodice:
F to H = __________, plus 1/2 inch. Line may pass G. Square down from F to D line. |
Shoulder Length
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Back Bodice:
B to I = __________ |
Dart Placement
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Back Bodice:
B to J = __________, plus dart intake of 1 1/2" and 1/4" ease. |
Waist Arc
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Back Bodice:
I to K = Mark center and label L |
Dart intake
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Back Bodice:
J to M = __________ |
Square down 3/16 inch
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Back Bodice:
M to N = __________. |
Side Length
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Back Bodice:
L to O = __________ |
Square up from L 1 inch less than M to N.
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Back Bodice:
Dart Legs |
From O, 1/8 inch past I and K.
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Back Bodice:
Draw Slightly curved lines from ___________ |
K to M and from B to I
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Back Bodice:
F to P = __________ |
One-half of F to H. Mark
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Back Bodice:
P to Q = __________ |
Draw a 3 inch line in the direction of point O. (indicated by broken line)
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Back Bodice:
P to R = __________ |
1/4 inch. Mark.
Draw dart leg from Q 1/8 inch past R and connect to F. Mark 1/4 inch from P. Draw other dart leg from Q equal to dart leg Q-R, and connect to H. |
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Back Bodice:
D to S = __________ |
One-fourth of D to B. Mark.
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Back Bodice:
S to T = __________, plus 1/4 inch. Square up and down from T |
Across Back
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Back Bodice:
Draw armhole with the French curve thouching H, T, and N. The curve should touch square line. |
Armhole
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Back Bodice:
Draw a 3/8 inch angle line from the corner. Draw neckline from F, angle line and ending close to D. |
Neckline
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Front and Back Skirt:
A to B = __________. |
Skirt Length
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Front and Back Skirt:
A to C = __________. |
Center Front Hip Depth
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Front and Back Skirt:
A to D = __________, plus 1/2 inch for ease. Square out from A, C and B equal to A to D. Draw center back line F to D. Label E and F. |
Back Hip Arc
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Front and Back Skirt:
E to G = __________. Crossmark Location |
Center Back Hip Depth
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Front and Back Skirt:
A to H = __________, plus 1/2 inch ease. Squared out from a, C, and B equal to A to H. Draw center front line J to H. Label J and I. |
Front Hip Arc
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Back Skirt:
D to K = __________, plus 1/4 inch ease, and add 2 inches for dart intake. |
Back waist Arc
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Back Skirt:
D to L = __________. Mark first dart 1 inch from L. Mark dart space 1 1/4 inches and mark 1 inch for second dart. Square up and down from K. |
Dart Placement
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Front Skirt:
H to M = __________, plus 1/4 inch ease and add 1 inch for dart intake. |
Front Waist Arc.
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Front Skirt:
H to N = __________ Mark first dart 5/8 inch from N. Mark dart space 1 1/4 inches and mark 5/8 inch for second dart. Square up and down from M. |
Dart Placement
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Back and Front Skirt:
C to P =_________. Draw side seam curve using the skirt curve ruler. Shift the ruler until the depth measurement touches the front and back guidelines. Label P and Q. |
Side hip Depth
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Front and Back Skirt:
Draw front and back waistline using the shallow end of the curve ruler from G to P (back) and from H to Q (front) |
Waistline
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Sleeve:
A to B = __________ Draw a line on paper. Mark and label |
Sleeve Length
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Sleeve
A to C = __________. Mark |
Cap Height
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Sleeve:
C to D = __________ |
One half of C to B
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Sleeve:
Place a ruler at A and pivot until the measurement touches biceps line. Mark |
Armhole measurement
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Sleeve:
C to E = _____________. Mark. Compare placement of the two marks, and mark biceps in between. Label E. Draw a line from A to E; Divide into fourths. Mark and label, as shown. |
1/2 of biceps measurement
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Sleeve:
C to F = __________ Draw a line from A to E; divide into fourths. Mark and label, as shown. |
C to E
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Sleeve:
B to O = __________ |
2 inches less than C to E
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Sleeve:
B to P = __________ Draw a line from O to E and from P to F. |
B to O
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Sleeve:
G= __________ H= __________ K= __________ |
in 3/8
out 1/4 out 5/8 |
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Sleeve:
L= __________ M= __________ N= __________ |
out 3/4
out 3/16 in 1/2 |
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Front Capline:
Use the French curve to shape the capline by touching _, ___, and ____. Draw the curve past M for blending. |
A, L, & M
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Front Capline:
Change the position of the curve rule touching ___, and ___, and draw curve blending with M line. Draw the curve. |
F, & N
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Back Capline:
Place the curve ruler so that ___, ___, and ___ touch. Draw the curve past H to blend. |
A, K, & H
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Back Capline:
Change the position of the curveruler touching ___, and ___, and draw curve belnding with H line. |
E & G
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Elbow Dart:
R to T=__________ |
One half of R to D. Mark
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Elbow Dart:
R to U= __________ |
1 inch. Mark
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Elbow Dart:
T to U= __________ |
R to T. Draw connecting line.
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Elbow Dart:
O to V= __________ |
3/4 inch. Mark
Draw a line from U through V equal to S to P. Label W |
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Elbow Dart:
W to X = _________ Draw a line ending a wrist level. Draw a slightly curved line from X to S to F. |
O to P.
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Ease Control Notches for Sleeve;
Back Markings __________ |
Mark notch 1/2 inch up from G and the second notch will be 1/2 above first mark.
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Ease Control Notches for Sleeve:
Front Markings _________ |
Mark on notch 1/2 inch above N.
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