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54 Cards in this Set

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What is a disturbing force?
The energy that causes ocean waves to form
Example: A rock thrown into a still pond
What are the 3 most common types of wave interfaces?
1) Air-Water (Ocean Waves)
2) Air-Air (Atmospheric Waves)
3) Water-Water (Internal Waves)
Similar type-system to convergent plate boundaries
Seismic Sea Waves caused by sea floor movement are also known as:
Tsunami
Island Disaster 2004
What are the 3 known progressive wave types?
1 - Longitudinal (Particles "push and pull" in same direction as traveling energy)
2 - Transverse (Side-to-side; energy travels perpendicular to direction of vibration)
3 - Orbital (combination of transverse & longitudinal; aka circular waves; also interface waves)
- Left to Right (Long)
- Up and Down (Trans)
- Both together (Orb)
Can this energy pass through gaseous matter, liquid matter, and/or solid matter:
- Longitudinal
All of the above
Example: Sound
Can this energy pass through gaseous matter, liquid matter, and/or solid matter:
- Transverse
Only solids b/c their particles are bound strongly enough to transmit the motion
What are body waves?
They transfer energy through a body of matter.
Examples: Longitudinal & Transverse waves
The high part of a wave:
Crests
The low part of a wave:
Trough
Halfway between the crests and the troughs:
Still water level
What does 'still water level' imply?
Zero energy level; No waves
What is the wave height?
The vertical distance between the crest and the trough
What is the wavelength of a wave defined as?
The horizontal distance between any 2 corresponding points on the wave
EX: Crest-Crest, Trough-Trough
What is the formula for wave steepness?
Wave Height
--------------------
Wavelength
If wave steepness exceeds 1/7...
Then the wave breaks (spills forward) anywhere
What is the formula for the frequency of a wave?
1
-------------
period
What is the basic movement of circular orbital motion as a wave travels?
The water passes the energy along by moving in a circle
Aka how does the energy in the wave move
What is the depth at which circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible?
The Wave Base
What is the wave base's depth?
Wavelength
----------------
2
Measured from still water level
If water depth is greater than wave base...
then the wave is a deep-water wave
The ocean bottom cannot interfere with this kind of wave's wavelength.
Formula for wave speed:
Wavelength
-------------------
Period
Length
----------
Time
Celerity is also known as...
Wave speed
If water depth is less than (L/20)...
then the wave is a shallow-water wave
These waves touch the ocean bottom and thus, it's orbital motion is affected by it.
Formula for the wave speed of deep-water waves:
1.25*(L)^(.5)
It's in meters
For deep-water waves, the longer the wavelength...
the faster the wave travels
Has to do with wave speed
Formula for wave speed of shallow-water waves:
3.1*(water-depth)^(.5)
It's in meters
For shallow-water waves, the deeper the water...
the faster the wave travels
Has to do with wave speed
What is a standing wave enclosed at least partially in a body of water?
Seiches (Standing wave is produced by sum of other trapped waves' wavelengths)
Why sloshing back & forth in a bath tub can cause water to eventually spill out
Of the four types of ocean waves, which are shallow-water and which are deep-water?
DW: Wind Waves
SW: Tsunamis, Tides, Seiches
FYI, 4 types are tsunamis, tides, seiches, and wind waves.
Pressure & Stress is caused over the ocean surface by...
Wind blowing over it
Ripples that gather enough energy to become ____ waves are known as...
___ = gravity
Answer = capillary
Surface tension of water causes...
capillarity
Area where wind-driven waves are generated is the...
sea
Energy imparted by wind increases what 3 parts of a wave?
The height, speed, and length
A wave reaches its maximum size when...
its wave speed is equal to the wind speed
What is the fetch of a wave?
Distance over which wind blows to generate waves
Maximum wave size/speed is dependent on what 3 factors?
1 - Fetch
2 - Duration (Length of time that wind blows across fetch)
3 - Wind speed (DIfference btwn wave speed & wind speed)
All factors have to do with the wind blowing on the wave
How does a 'Wind Sea' create new waves?
Through a combination of wind forces caused by storms
What is wave dispersion?
The sorting of waves by their wavelength
What are swells?
Uniform, Symmetrical, long-crested waves with a wave speed faster than wind speed. They move independent of wind with little loss of energy as a result.
Wind is no longer a factor of control...
Explains why waves break at the shore.
Waves have constant wavelengths (as deep-water waves) until they reach the wave base (with respect to the shore). There, their wavelengths begin to decrease (as interact with ocean bottom) and their velocity decreases, thus increasing the wave height as the wave is now a shallow-water one. Once the height > 1/7, the wave breaks.
Has to do with big difference btwn deep-water waves & shallow-water waves
What is wave shoaling?
The transition from deep-water wave to shallow-water wave
A wave does it when it approaches a shore
What are the 3 types of breakers & how are they caused?
1 - Spilling (Waves break on a relatively flat surface)
2 - Plunging (Curling crests form on steep slopes)
3 - Surging (Abrupt beach slopes cause really quick wave energy compression)
- Flat surface
- Steep slope
- Abrupt Slope
What is the angle between the front & backside of a wave?
< 120 degrees
When is the most dangerous part of a tsunami?
When it runs up & breaks at the shore
Difference in periods, wavelengths, depths between tsunamis & wind waves?
Wind waves period - in seconds
Wind waves wavelength - around 100m
Wind waves depth - around 50m

Tsunami period - in minutes
Tsunami wavelength - > 100km
Tsunami depth - TO THE SEA FLOOR
Tsunami OWNS Wind Waves
What does the long period of a tsunami imply once it hit the shore?
Long period means the crest of the wave stretches along the shore (& maybe passed it...) for a long time before receding
2 signs of possible tsunami activity?
1 - Nearby Seismic Activity
2 - Highly receding water at the shoreline
Is CA at risk from tsunamis?
Yes
We live on the Ring of Fire
What travels faster, seismic waves or tsunami waves?
Seismic waves
What can detect tsunamis?
Buoys & sea floor pressure sensors
Explain the refraction of a wave as the wave gets close to the shore.
Waves seldom approach the shore at 90 degrees and thus as they "feel the bottom", they bend (at the base of the wave) such that they arrive nearly parallel to the shoreline though the crest of the wave is then bent.
Critical point when wave base hits land
Explain the reflection of a wave as the wave nears the shore.
Reversal in direction due to bouncing off a boundary (seawall, rock ledge, etc.)
If a wave approaches the shore at an angle...
Wave energy will be reflected at an angle equal to the angle the wave came at the barrier.