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33 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Surface currents
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carry warm water to poles
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Coriolis effect
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due to Earth's rotation currents are deflected to ring in N. Hemisphere and left in S. Hemisphere
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deep currents
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cool water at poles sinks and mods through the lower ocean
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upwelling
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more dense water flows up
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down wellling
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less dense water flows down
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Thermohaline circulation
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global pattern of currents that carries heat, dissolved gas, and other compounds on a trip that can take up to 1,300 years
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Waves
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a disturbance that travels through water, NO MOVEMENT OF WATER.
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Wavelength
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math
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Wave height
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vertical distance between height and trough
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amplitude
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math
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Wave base
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maxim depth at which wave affects seafloor
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FETCH
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Total distance wind goes over water
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SWASH
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turbulent layer of water that washes upon the beach after an incoming wave has broken
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Backwash
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when a wave retreats from shore
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Wave refraction
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occurs when the wave crest bends so that it is aligned parallel to the contour of the seafloor
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Longshore currents
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net movement of waves hitting beach at an angle
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Embayments
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wave refraction focuses erosional energy on headlands. They erode and deposit on adjacent beaches.
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Headland
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rocky outcroup -->draw picture
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Rip Current
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as h20 piles up at beach, it is released as current that surges through the surf zone
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Beach Drift
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caused by longshore current, movement of sand away from beach
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baymouth spit
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continuation of the beach forming at point or free end
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baymouth bar
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a spit that has grown completely away from beach to sea
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barrier island
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long narrow sandy island with one shoreline facing ocean and other that faces tidal lagoon
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Groin
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A structure built to restore an eroding beach, that juts out into a body of water perpendicular to the shoreline. It intercepts longshore drift and traps sand.
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jetty
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built along the bank of a stream channel or tidal outlet to direct the flow of a stream or tide and keep the sediment moving so that it cannot build up and fill the channel
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Sandbar
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shallow area around coast due to sand accumulation
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Breakwater
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A wall built seaward of a coast to intercept incoming waves and so protect a harbor or shore.
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Beach
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unconsolidated accumulation of sand or gravel the shoreline
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Rocky Coast
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steephills or mountains descend into sea
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Coastal Wetlands
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estuary, with seawater and have salt marshes with plants that act as buffers between land and ocean
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Estuary
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partially enclosed body of water
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Fjords
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narrow inlet with steep sides or cliffs, created in a valley carved by glacial activity.
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Coral reefs
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numerous types of oc coral algae build massive CaCO2 structures
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