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19 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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what is a wave?
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a rymthemic movement that carries energy through matter or space (in our case its water)
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what is a crest of a wave?
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the highest point a wave reaches
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Wht is a trough of a wave?
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The lowest part of a wave
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what is wavelength?
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the distance between either two crests or two troughs?
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What is wave height?
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the vertical distance between crest and trough
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what is the amplitude of a wave?
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the total wave height devided by 2
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in a wave , unless its breaking onto the shore, each molecule .....
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stays in about the same place
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water in a wave moves around in...
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circles
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only the ____of a wave actullly moves forward
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energy
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waves only are on ....
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the top of the surface wter, not going too far down
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a wave begins to change its shape.....
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in shallow water or near the shore line
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near the shore line, what causes the wave to fold over on itself?
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The friction of the water on the bottom causes the top of the wave to move at a faster speed than the bottom of the wave thats dragging along the ground.
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what happens after a wave breaks on shore?
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gravity pulls the water back into the ocean
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as a wind blows over the ocean, what happens to a wave?
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the wind increases its height
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what does the height of the wave depend on?
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How long the winds blown, how strong the wind is thats blowing,the distance the wind blows
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what is a tide?
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The rise and fall of ocean levels
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what causes a tide?
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a giant wave that is produced by the gravitational pull of the moon. as the crest of this wave approaches the shorline, the tide appears to rise
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what is a high tide?
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the rise in sea level
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what is a low tide?
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the drop in sea level.
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