Costume History 2

Front 1

Alb

Back 1

A liturgical vestment of the Catholic Church. A long white tunic with narrow sleeves and a slit for the head, tied with a belt. The name derived from the Roman tunica alba (white tunic).

Front 2

Amice

Back 2

A strip of linen placed around the shoulders and tied in position to form a collar, which was worn by priests saying mass.

Front 3

Barbette

Back 3

A linen band passed from one temple, down, under the chin, and up to the other temple. Worn with a fillet.

Front 4

Bliaut

Back 4

An elaborate woman’s garment made of silk, satin, or velvet and embroidered with gold thread and decorated with precious stones. The bodice and skirt were sewn together with an inset bias fabric piece on each side. It laced shut, usually on the sides.

Front 5

Braies

Back 5

Loose-fitting linen breeches fastened at the waist with a belt used as an undergarment and worn next to the skin. Lengths varied, ranging from knee-length to longer ankle-length variations, which were wrapped close to the leg with gartering. It covered the lower part of the torso and upper legs.

Front 6

Chainse

Back 6

Outer garment for upper-class women. Made of washable materials, probably linen, it was long and seems to have been pleated.

Front 7

A hood, cut and sewed to a chape (cape).

Back 7

Chaperon

Front 8

Leg protection made of mail. Some only covered the front of the leg, while others were more like hose and fitted all around.

Back 8

Chausses

Front 9

An evolved form of the paenula. This round Roman cape was given up up the laity, but continued to be worn by clergy in a form with the sides cut shorter to allow movement of the arms.

Back 9

Chasuble

Front 10

A loose-fitting linen undergarment with sleeves for both men and women worn next to the body. Women’s were similar to men’s but cut a little longer. Also called a shirt.

Back 10

Chemise or Camisa

Front 11

A small white cap that tied under the chin.

Back 11

Coif

Front 12

Under tunic worn by both men and women and placed over the Chemise or shirt.

Back 12

Cote

Front 13

A round brooch or clasp used to close the top of the outer tunic, bliaut, or surcote.

Back 13

Fermail or Afiche

Front 14

A standing linen band, rather like a crown over which a veil might be draped.

Back 14

Fillet

Front 15

Slits that look like pockets in some of the more voluminous outdoor garments so that one could put one’s hand inside for warmth or to reach a purse hung from the belt around the waist.

Back 15

Fitchets

Front 16

A long cloak with wide, capelike sleeves, open at the sides under the arms and often lined with fur.

Back 16

Garnache

Front 17

A shirt made of mail worn for protection in battle.

Back 17

Hauberk or Byrnie

Front 18

A cloak with long, wide sleeves having a slit below the shoulder through which the arm could be slipped, leaving the long, full sleeve hanging behind. Sometimes the top of the sleeve was pleated or tucked to add fullness to the sleeve.

Back 18

Herigaut

Front 19

Stockings that fit the foot and leg up to the knee or thigh and tied into place around the knee.

Back 19

Hose

Front 20

strips of linen or wool wrapped closely around the leg to the knee and worn either over the hose or alone.

Back 20

Leg Bandages

Front 21

A long tube of fabric hanging down from the back of a hood.

Back 21

Liripipe (or cornette)

Front 22

Cut very full under the arm, tapering to a close fit at the wrist.

Back 22

Magyar Sleeve

Front 23

Made from one piece of fabric that fastened on one shoulder.

Back 23

Open Mantles

Front 24

A long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf, possibly evolved from the toga with the folded bands, became part of the official insignia of the emperor or empress. Initially draped up the center front, around the shoulders, across the front of the body, and carried over one arm, it eventually became a simpler panel of fabric with an opening for the head.

Back 24

Lorum

Front 25

A narrow band of white wool that was worn by popes and archbishops. Prelates wore the band with one end falling to the front and the other to the back. It evolved from the Greek himation, which lost its shawl like form and became a narrow band that was a symbol of learning in Roman and then Byzantine styles.

Back 25

Pallium

Front 26

terms applied to any of a number of fur-trimmed garments including outer wraps, under tunics, and outer tunics.

Back 26

Pelice or Pelicon

Front 27

Square or wound decorative medallions that were placed in different areas of the tunic.

Back 27

Segmentae

Front 28

A long, narrow strip of material that was worn over the shoulder during the mass.

Back 28

Stole

Front 29

An outer tunic worn over the cote. Sometimes referred to as cyclas when it is sleeveless.

Back 29

Surcote

Front 30

Originally a short, loose garment with short or no sleeves that was worn by monks and lower-class men. It fastened under the arms with either a full or partial seam, or a simple fabric tab.

Back 30

Tabard

Front 31

Tablion

Back 31

A large square decoration of the paludamentum that contrasted in color and fabric and was located at the open edge of the garment over the breast

Front 32

Tippet

Back 32

A Narrow band of cloth attached to hood, headdress, or sleeve.

Front 33

Wimple

Back 33

A fine white linen or silk scarf that covered the neck, the center placed under the chin and each end pulled and fastened above the ear or at the temple. Generally worn in combination with a veil.

Front 34

Wooden platforms placed over leather shoes to protect them by raising them up out of the water, mud or snow.

Back 34

wooden clogs

Front 35

Kirtle

Back 35

anglo-saxon for tunic

Front 36

Caul

Back 36

Close-fitting gold hairnet worn by ladies of the aristocracy.

Front 37

A liturgical garment of the Catholic Church and a choir vestment of some Anglican churches, it is a semicircular cape that is embroidered or brocaded and fastened across the chest.

Back 37

Cope

Front 38

A headdress of gold net and pearls.

Back 38

Crispine or Crispinette

Front 39

A knee-length, wide-sleeved ecclesiastical gown slit up the sides.

Back 39

Dalmatic

Front 40

One of the most important garments of the Byzantine Empire; had the same general wide sleeved shape as in Roman times but with far more embroidery and decoration.

Back 40

Dalmatica

Front 41

A type of waistband or belt that encircled the hips.

Back 41

Girdle

Front 42

A wimple or couvrechief worn under the chin and tucked under the neckline of the gown.

Back 42

Gorget

Front 43

—A colorful rectangle veil draped over the head and shoulder from left to right, passed around the neck and tied under the chin.

Back 43

Headrail

Front 44

A narrow strip of silk three feet long, decorated with three crosses, hung or fastened over the left forearm.

Back 44

Maniple

Front 45

A liturgical headdress of the Catholic Church, specifically worn by bishops but occasionally worn by abbots and other church dignitaries.

Back 45

Mitre

Front 46

Embroidered squares and bands used on the ecclesiastical alb, dalmatic, and chasuble.

Back 46

Orphreys

Front 47

Short hose, usually turned down at the knee.

Back 47

Pedule

Front 48

A very elaborate, oblong decoration embroidered in red and gold on the back and front of the imperial Byzantine mantle.

Back 48

Tablion

Front 49

Bourrelet- late middle ages

Back 49

Padded, crown like roll worn on top of the head.

Front 50

Cap like netting covering the head, extending at sides to cover and support two coils of hair at each side of face.

Back 50

Caul- late middle ages