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22 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Waves of Oscillation |
Waves in which water moves in a circular path |
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Fetch |
The distance of open water over which wind blows |
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How are waves formed? |
They are the result of energy being transferred to water by friction as wind blows over the ocean |
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Factors of wave height |
Wind speed Wind duration Fetch (distance of open water) |
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Waves of translation |
As the wave base encounters the seafloor, waves of translation develop Waves of translation form when waves enter shallow water and water moves forwardhorizontally; when waves break energy is transferred to the shore and erosion occurs. |
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Swash |
The rush of water up a beach following the collapse of a breaker |
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Backwash |
The flow of water from breakers down the slope of a beach back toward the ocean |
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Wave Refraction |
The process in which waves approaching the shoreline bend and maintain a nearly parallel orientation to the shore Moving faster in shallow water Wave refraction concentrates waves and wave energy into headlands causing erosion Wave and wave energy dissipates in embayments and disposition occurs This leads to a straight coastline over time |
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Headland |
A rocky prominence of coastal land |
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Embayment |
A concave sandy beach between headlands |
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Longshore current |
A current that flows parallel to the beach in the direction of wave movement |
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Longshore drift |
The process by which sediment on a beach is moved down the length of the beach in the direction of wave movement |
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Rip current |
A short-lived jet of backwash formed as water from breakers flows back into the sea |
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What is the BC coastline composed of? |
Rocky with many drowned glacial valleys (fjords) It is an emergent coastline |
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Emergent coastline |
A coast where sea level is dropping or the land is rising. The coast was pushed down into the mantle as a result of weight of ice sheets during last glaciation Melting of ice sheets causing crust to rebound and coastal features uplifted above modern sealevel |
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Sea stacks and arch |
A steep or vertical tower of rock separated from but near a rocky coastal cliff face Arches are formed by differential erosion of a coastal cliff |
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Wave-cut bench |
A flat coastal platform resulting from wave erosion and exposed at low tide |
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wave-cut notch |
A notch formed at the base of a coastal cliff as a result of weathering and erosion |
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Marine terrace |
A wave-cut bench that has been elevated above sea level |
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Beach nourishment |
The artificial replenishment of a beach with sand |
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Sea cave |
form where waves erode weaker areas of bedrock along joints |
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Tombolo |
Deposition landform in which an island is attached to the mainland by a strip of land such as a spit or bar |
