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44 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back

How are waves formed?

Wind causes friction along the water

Name 2 factors that cause waves to increase in size.

Speed of the wind


Fetch (distance travelled)


Length of time wind has been travelling

Which type of wave has a shorter fetch?

Constructive

Which type of wave has weaker winds?

Constructive

Which type of wave has higher energy?

Destructive

In which type of wave is swash stronger than backwash?

Constructive

Which type of wave has greater erosion?

Destructive

Which type of wave is higher?

Destructive

Which type of wave has a higher frequency (waves per minute)?

Destructive

Which type of wave has a shorter wavelength?

Destructive

What is hydraulic action?

Erosion caused by the sheer force of water forcing air into cracks and holes in a cliff.

What is abrasion/corrasion?

Erosion caused by the rubbing and scouring action of rock fragments carried by waves.

What is solution/corrosion?

Erosion caused by saltwater dissolving rocks by chemical action.

What is attrition?

Erosion caused when rock and pebbles transported by waves bump into each other and break up into smaller pieces.

What is mechanical/physical weathering?

The disintegration (break-up of rocks). Where this happens, piles of rocks fragments called scree can be found at the foot of cliffs.

What is chemical weathering?

Caused by chemical changes. Rainwater, which is slightly acidic, slowly dissolves certain types of rocks and minerals.

What is biological weathering?

Due to the actions of flora and fauna. (Plant roots growing in plants and rocks, or rabbits burrowing into rock.)

Explain freeze-thaw action.

Water collects in cracks of rocks, and expands as it freezes, causing cracks to widen and eventually rock fragments break off.

What is a rockfall?

When fragments of rock break away from the cliff face, often due to freeze thaw action.

What is a landslide?

Where blocks of rock slide downhill.

What is a mudflow?

Saturated soil and weak rock flow down a slope.

What is a rotational slip?

A slump of saturated soil and weak rock along a curved surface.

What is mass movement?

The downward movement under the influence of gravity.

What is traction?

When large items are rolled along the sea bed.

What is saltation?

When medium items are bounced along the sea bed.

What is suspension?

When small rocks are carried by the water.

What is solution?

When tiny rocks and material are dissolved and carried within the water.

Name 5 causes of deposition.

Loss of energy


Shallow water (increases friction)


Change in wind direction


Objects which trap material (groynes, harbours)


Increase in the load of material


Where two bodies of water meet

Where do spits form?

Where the coastline changes shape.

What conditions are needed to form sand dunes?

Abundant supply of sand


Object to trap the sand


Wind to carry the sand


A large tidal range


A wide flat beach

Name the first stage of a sand dune.

Embryo dune

Name the second stage of sand dunes.

Fore dune

Name the third stage of sand dunes.

Yellow dune

Name 5 reasons to protect the coastline.

Reduce erosion to avoid land loss


Save people's homes


Save businesses therefore employment


Fragile ecosystems


Reduce coastal flooding


Tourism to the coastline

What is hard engineering?

Expensive methods of coastal management, generally made from concrete/rocks.

What is soft engineering?

More sustainable methods and work better with the environment. Usually cheaper but have to be replaced often.

How do groynes work?

Prevents material moving down the beach.

How does a sea wall work?

Barrier against the sea, reflects waves back at the sea.

How do gabions work?

Wire cages filled with rocks provides a buffer against the sea.

How does rock armour work?

Piles of large boulders absorb wave energy.

How does cliff stabilisation work?

Cliffs are terraced and drains installed to reduce amount of water absorbed.

How does dune regeneration work?

Effective buffers to the sea.

How does beach nourishment work?

Additional sand or shingle to make beach bigger or wider.

What is the process called where you let the coastline erode?

Managed retreat/coastal realignment