Clothing Construction - Module 3.1 And 3.2

Front 1

Define understitching

Back 1

A line of stitching applied along certain seamlines to keep facing and seam allowance laying flat in a particular direction

Front 2

How do you do under stitching?

Back 2

Use a straight stitch
Stitch on right side, close to the seamline, through the facing and seam allowance
Trim, grade, clip or notch seam allowances and then press to the side

Front 3

What is the purpose of edge stitching?

Back 3

Keeps edges neat and in position
Functional and decorative

Front 4

How do you do edge stitching?

Back 4

Use short stitches
Fold seam to the wrong side, press.
Stitch on wrong side, against foldline, through both layers

Front 5

Define top stitching

Back 5

Machine stitches done on right side for decorative or functional reasons.

Front 6

How do you do top stitching?

Back 6

Use plain straight stitching at a longer stitch length
Tighten top tension
Use a normal sewing thread or a heavier thread
Use a matching or contrasting colour

Front 7

Define stay stitching

Back 7

A regular machine stitch stitched directly next to the fitting line inside the seam allowance

Front 8

Where is stay stitching done?

Back 8

Seams handled a lot
Seams that can stretch

Front 9

What is the purpose of back stitching?

Back 9

Securing beginning and end of a row of machine stitching.

Front 10

How is back stitching done?

Back 10

Reverse stitching mechanism is used
Position stitches on top or just inside those forming the seam
Don't back stitch beyond the cut edge

Front 11

When is the stitch-in-the-ditch technique used?

Back 11

When you wish to stitch a row of nearly invisible stitches to hold down a completed neckline, waistband, etc.

Front 12

What is another name for tacking stitches?

Back 12

Basting stitch

Front 13

Name the four types of temporary handstitches.

Back 13

Even tacking stitches
Uneven tacking stitches
Diagonal tacking stitches
Slip tacking stitches

Front 14

Name the four categories of permanent handstitches

Back 14

Stitches to attach fasteners
Stitches to attach facings and bindings
Stitches to sew in hems
Stitches to prevent fraying on edges

Front 15

Name three types of hand-stitches to attach fasteners

Back 15

Blanket stitch
Buttonhole stitch
Satin stitch

Front 16

Name four hand-stitches to attach facings and bindings

Back 16

Hemming stitch
Slip hemming stitch
Single cross stitch
Whip stitch

Front 17

Name four hand-stitches used to sew in hems

Back 17

Herringbone stitch
Slip hemming stitch
Blind hemming stitch
Tailor's stitch

Front 18

Name two stitches to prevent fraying on edges

Back 18

Blanket stitch
Overcast stitch

Front 19

Define even tacking

Back 19

Stitches and spaces of equal lengh

Front 20

How is even tacking done?

Back 20

Take several evenly spaced stitches onto the needle before putting it through.

Front 21

What are the uses of even tacking?

Back 21

On smooth fabrics and in areas that need close control

Front 22

Define uneven tacking

Back 22

Long and short stitches with half the length of the long stitches.

Front 23

What are the uses of uneven tacking?

Back 23

Used in areas where less control is needed
Transfer pattern marks

Front 24

Define firm uneven tacking

Back 24

Two short stitches and one long stitch alternately between short spaces

Front 25

Define diagonal tacking

Back 25

Small stitches parallel to each other producing diagonal floats in between

Front 26

In which direction are stitches taken in diagonal tacking?

Back 26

From right to left

Front 27

How is greater control gained when making diagonal tacking stitches?

Back 27

Take shorter stitches
Spaced closer together

Front 28

What is the purpose of short diagonal tacking?

Back 28

Hold seam edges flat during stitching or pressing

Front 29

What is the purpose of long diagonal tacking?

Back 29

Hold underlying fabric to garment fabric during construction

Front 30

What is the purpose of slip tacking?

Back 30

Precise matching of plaids, stripes and some large prints at seamlines.
Tack intricately curved sections
To make fitting adjustments from right side

Front 31

How is slip tacking done?

Back 31

Crease and turn under one edge along the seamline.
With right-side up lay folded edge in position along seamline of corresponding garment piece, matching the fabric design.
Take 6mm stitches through the lower garment section,
then take the next stitch through fold of upper edge.

Front 32

What is the purpose of blanket stitch?

Back 32

Cover fabric edge decoratively
Construction details

Front 33

How is blanket stitch formed?

Back 33

Work from left to right with the point of the needle and the edge of the work toward you.
Secure thread and bring out below edge
Insert needle through fabric from right side and bring out at edge.
Keep thread from previous stitch under point of needle

Front 34

Define buttonhole stitch

Back 34

A covering stitch used as a decorative finish
and in the hand-worked buttonholes

Front 35

Define slip hemming

Back 35

A durable and almost invisible method suitable for a folded hem edge

Front 36

How is slip hemming worked?

Back 36

Work from right to left
Bring needle and thread out through fold of hem
Opposite, in the garment, take a small stitch, catching only a few threads
Opposite, in the hem edge, insert needle and slip through fold for about 6mm

Front 37

What is cross-stitch tacking used for?

Back 37

Tack folds in place where more flexibility is required than offered by machine tacking

Front 38

How is herringbone stitch worked?

Back 38

From left to right with needle pointing left
Fasten thread on wrong side of hem and bring through hem edge
Take a very small stitch in garment fabric directly above hem edge and 6 - 10mm to right
Take next stitch 6 - 10mm to right in hem. Continue

Front 39

How is blind-hemming stitch worked by hand?

Back 39

From right to left with needle pointing left
Fold back hem edge and fasten thread inside it
Take very small stitch about 6mm to left in hem
Alternate stitches from garment to hem about 6mm apart