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73 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
9 Block wrap
Basic perm wrap, Straight set wrap, rectangular partings
End papers
Papers used to control hair ends while placing perm rods
Cortex
Layer of hair responsible for elasticity
Ponytail wrap
Series of ponytails throughout head. Hair in ponytails is wrapped in perm rods. Produces curl on ends with minimal wave toward scalp
Spiral Wrap
Creates coiled curl for longer hair, square bases, perm rods vertical
Book End
End wrap technique where the end paper is folded like a book causing ends to group together
Curvature wrap
Parting follows shape of head
Concave Rod
Rods with wider diameter at ends and smaller in middle creates uneven curl
Straight Rod
Perm rod with equal diameter the entire length of rod, creates even curls
Cuticle
Layer responsible for porosity
Keratin
Protein building block of hair, skin and nails
Base Control
Position of tool in relation to its base (On base, half off base, off base)
Occupational disease
Illness caused by overexposure to certain products or ingredients
Bricklay wrap
No exact sections, hair rods are staggered. No partings when rods removed
Partial Wrap
Provides curl to small areas
Sodium Hydroxide
This type of relaxer is the STRONGEST and also known as lye
Piggyback wrap
Double rod wrap. Use with hair longer than 10-12". Wrapped on 1 rod midstrand to scalp. Remaining hair wrapped around second rod.
Test Curl
Name of test done DURING the process of a perm
Ammonium Bisulfite Relaxer
Mild relaxer compatible with thio relaxers
Processing strand Test
Test done DURING processing a relaxer. Also known as Thumb test
Preliminary Strand Test
Done before to see how hair will react to a specific service
Double Flat
End wrap technique requires the use of two vertical end papers
Single End wrap
End wrap using one vertical end paper
Exothermic Wave
Wave that does not require outside source of heat. Chemicals create thermal reaction. main ingredient is Ammonium Thioglycolate
Loop Rods
Rods meant to create spiral curls
Base section
Subsections located within a larger panel section
Endothermic Waves
Require outside source of heat (dryer) main ingredient Glycerol Monothioglycolate
Potassium Hydroxide relaxer
Quick processing time, No mix, No lye, Strong alkaline ingredients 12.5-13.5pH
Sensitization
Allergic reaction caused by repeated exposure to certain products or ingredients
Croquignole wrapping
Hair is wrapped inward creating tighter curls at the ends and larger at the scalp because hair is overlapped
Normalizing lotion
Solution with acidic pH that restores hairs pH after relaxer but before neutralizing shampoo
New Growth
New hair growing out of the scalp
Weave parts
Parts used in perm wrapping to help with blending
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
(Lye Relaxer) Quickest processing time, Strongest alkaline ingredients, pH 12.5-13.5
Bender rods
Type of rods that are flexible, covered in foam and easily bent into shape
Aldehyde
Results from oxidation of primary alcohols
Ammonia free waves
Permanent waves using ingredients other than ammonia to reduce odor associated with ammonia perms
Release statement
Clients must sign in order to receive any service
Formaldehyde Free
Does not contain formaldehyde but can still give off a formaldehyde gas
Disulfide bond
Side bond broken by chemicals
Trichology
Study of hair
Acid Balanced perm
Perm processed without heat, produces a firmer curl and processes quicker than true acid waves
Thio Relaxer
Ammonium Thioglycolate, relaxer with combination of ammonia and thyoglycoclic acid
Guanadine
Type of relaxer is for sensitive scalp and is considered "no lye" also known as calcium hydroxide
Salt bond
Side bond broken by change in pH
True Acid
Glycerol monothioglycolate is the main ingredient in this type of perm processes WITH heat
Amino Acids
HONCS (hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, carbon, sulfur) make up what?
Hydrogen, Salt, Disulfide
What are 3 types of side bonds?
Formaldehyde
Organic caompound present in any beauty products and gives off a pungent smell
Polypeptide chains
Spiraling chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
Peptide bonds
Amino acids are connected END to END by these
Potassium
Type of relaxer is strong but does NOT contain lye and is also "no mix"
Ammonium Bisulfate Relaxer
Mild alternative relaxer, Low pH 6.5-8.5
Hydrogen bond
Side bond broken by heat or water
Guanidine Hydroxide relaxer
Store Bought relaxer, mixing of 2 products, Calcium, gentle on scalp but harsh on hair, no base, pH10-13
Medulla
Innermost layer of hair Purpose unknown
Cuticle
Outer layer of hair responsible for porosity
Alkaline
This perm processes without heat and has thyglycolic acid
Hydroxide neatralization
Hydroxide relaxers use this type of neutralization
Cortex
Middle layer of hair responsible for elasticity
Side bonds
Connect polypeptide chains SIDE to SIDE
Thio neutralization
Permanent waves and Thio relaxers use this type of neutralization
Test Curl
Perm rod is unrapped 1 1/2 times to check for "S" curl formation
Base control
Base placement, position of tool in relation to base....On base, Half off base, Off base
Permanent Waving
This procedure will chemically change the hair from straight to curly
Chemical relaxer
This procedure will chemically change the hair from curly to straight
Keratin Smoothing
This procedure will help eliminate frizz
Curl reformation
This procedure will give the client a looser curl pattern after the original curl is removed
Base direction
Position of rod within section Ex. horizontal, vertical, diagonal
Weave perm
Perm wrap where zigzag partings used which offers maximum blending of setions when rods are removed
Base cream
Protective cream put on the hairline and scalp to protect from the chemical
Neutralizer
chemical solution applied to stop the waving process and to rebuild the bonds into their new form
Cold waves
perm that process without heat, active ingredient thioglycolic acid, pH 8.5-9.5