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73 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
9 Block wrap
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Basic perm wrap, Straight set wrap, rectangular partings
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End papers
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Papers used to control hair ends while placing perm rods
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Cortex
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Layer of hair responsible for elasticity
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Ponytail wrap
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Series of ponytails throughout head. Hair in ponytails is wrapped in perm rods. Produces curl on ends with minimal wave toward scalp
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Spiral Wrap
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Creates coiled curl for longer hair, square bases, perm rods vertical
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Book End
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End wrap technique where the end paper is folded like a book causing ends to group together
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Curvature wrap
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Parting follows shape of head
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Concave Rod
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Rods with wider diameter at ends and smaller in middle creates uneven curl
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Straight Rod
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Perm rod with equal diameter the entire length of rod, creates even curls
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Cuticle
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Layer responsible for porosity
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Keratin
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Protein building block of hair, skin and nails
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Base Control
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Position of tool in relation to its base (On base, half off base, off base)
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Occupational disease
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Illness caused by overexposure to certain products or ingredients
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Bricklay wrap
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No exact sections, hair rods are staggered. No partings when rods removed
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Partial Wrap
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Provides curl to small areas
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Sodium Hydroxide
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This type of relaxer is the STRONGEST and also known as lye
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Piggyback wrap
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Double rod wrap. Use with hair longer than 10-12". Wrapped on 1 rod midstrand to scalp. Remaining hair wrapped around second rod.
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Test Curl
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Name of test done DURING the process of a perm
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Ammonium Bisulfite Relaxer
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Mild relaxer compatible with thio relaxers
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Processing strand Test
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Test done DURING processing a relaxer. Also known as Thumb test
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Preliminary Strand Test
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Done before to see how hair will react to a specific service
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Double Flat
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End wrap technique requires the use of two vertical end papers
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Single End wrap
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End wrap using one vertical end paper
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Exothermic Wave
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Wave that does not require outside source of heat. Chemicals create thermal reaction. main ingredient is Ammonium Thioglycolate
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Loop Rods
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Rods meant to create spiral curls
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Base section
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Subsections located within a larger panel section
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Endothermic Waves
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Require outside source of heat (dryer) main ingredient Glycerol Monothioglycolate
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Potassium Hydroxide relaxer
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Quick processing time, No mix, No lye, Strong alkaline ingredients 12.5-13.5pH
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Sensitization
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Allergic reaction caused by repeated exposure to certain products or ingredients
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Croquignole wrapping
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Hair is wrapped inward creating tighter curls at the ends and larger at the scalp because hair is overlapped
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Normalizing lotion
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Solution with acidic pH that restores hairs pH after relaxer but before neutralizing shampoo
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New Growth
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New hair growing out of the scalp
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Weave parts
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Parts used in perm wrapping to help with blending
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Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
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(Lye Relaxer) Quickest processing time, Strongest alkaline ingredients, pH 12.5-13.5
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Bender rods
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Type of rods that are flexible, covered in foam and easily bent into shape
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Aldehyde
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Results from oxidation of primary alcohols
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Ammonia free waves
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Permanent waves using ingredients other than ammonia to reduce odor associated with ammonia perms
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Release statement
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Clients must sign in order to receive any service
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Formaldehyde Free
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Does not contain formaldehyde but can still give off a formaldehyde gas
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Disulfide bond
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Side bond broken by chemicals
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Trichology
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Study of hair
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Acid Balanced perm
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Perm processed without heat, produces a firmer curl and processes quicker than true acid waves
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Thio Relaxer
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Ammonium Thioglycolate, relaxer with combination of ammonia and thyoglycoclic acid
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Guanadine
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Type of relaxer is for sensitive scalp and is considered "no lye" also known as calcium hydroxide
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Salt bond
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Side bond broken by change in pH
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True Acid
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Glycerol monothioglycolate is the main ingredient in this type of perm processes WITH heat
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Amino Acids
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HONCS (hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, carbon, sulfur) make up what?
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Hydrogen, Salt, Disulfide
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What are 3 types of side bonds?
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Formaldehyde
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Organic caompound present in any beauty products and gives off a pungent smell
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Polypeptide chains
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Spiraling chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
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Peptide bonds
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Amino acids are connected END to END by these
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Potassium
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Type of relaxer is strong but does NOT contain lye and is also "no mix"
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Ammonium Bisulfate Relaxer
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Mild alternative relaxer, Low pH 6.5-8.5
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Hydrogen bond
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Side bond broken by heat or water
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Guanidine Hydroxide relaxer
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Store Bought relaxer, mixing of 2 products, Calcium, gentle on scalp but harsh on hair, no base, pH10-13
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Medulla
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Innermost layer of hair Purpose unknown
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Cuticle
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Outer layer of hair responsible for porosity
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Alkaline
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This perm processes without heat and has thyglycolic acid
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Hydroxide neatralization
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Hydroxide relaxers use this type of neutralization
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Cortex
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Middle layer of hair responsible for elasticity
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Side bonds
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Connect polypeptide chains SIDE to SIDE
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Thio neutralization
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Permanent waves and Thio relaxers use this type of neutralization
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Test Curl
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Perm rod is unrapped 1 1/2 times to check for "S" curl formation
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Base control
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Base placement, position of tool in relation to base....On base, Half off base, Off base
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Permanent Waving
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This procedure will chemically change the hair from straight to curly
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Chemical relaxer
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This procedure will chemically change the hair from curly to straight
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Keratin Smoothing
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This procedure will help eliminate frizz
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Curl reformation
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This procedure will give the client a looser curl pattern after the original curl is removed
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Base direction
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Position of rod within section Ex. horizontal, vertical, diagonal
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Weave perm
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Perm wrap where zigzag partings used which offers maximum blending of setions when rods are removed
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Base cream
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Protective cream put on the hairline and scalp to protect from the chemical
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Neutralizer
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chemical solution applied to stop the waving process and to rebuild the bonds into their new form
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Cold waves
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perm that process without heat, active ingredient thioglycolic acid, pH 8.5-9.5
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