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53 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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what differs in the front & back bodice slopers?
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-neckline deeper in the front, with more of a curve
-more chest curve in front for bust -deeper armhole in back |
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uppermost edge styling defined by shape & placement
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neckline
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an additional styled piece
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collar
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rounded neckline below neck
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round
scoop |
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angled
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V
square |
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straight
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bateau/boat
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straight & curved
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sweetheart
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opening
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slit
keyhole |
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above the base
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funnel
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revealing
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decolletage
plunging off-the-shoulder |
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wrapped
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surplice
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can you hem a neckline?
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-only with straight or almost straight, non-angled edges
-more commonly with knits -cowls |
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simple neckline finishes
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-band
-binding |
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the relationship of the garment shape & dimensions to the body
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fit
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why is good fit hard to achieve?
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-multicultural population; many body types
-individual variations within body types -inadequate updated data -established assumptions about "average" body types & dimensions -inherent to MASS production |
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how to improve good fit?
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-more data: body scanning & more comprehensive body analysis
-software to apply data: to mass customization & to improved dimensional info. for sizing |
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pattern alteration techniques
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-add or subtract length or width (pattern seamlines, dart lines, cutting & spreading or lapping pieces within pattern)
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-how a garment rests on the body
-must hang correctly from primary support location (shoulders) |
SET
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-warp & weft grains should be supported as per the design
-wrinkles demonstrate problem -warp should be perp. to floor at CF & CB -weft should be parallel to floor across CF, CB |
GRAIN
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EASE
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-functional=minimal
bust/chest= 2-4 waist= .5-1 hips= 1-2 less for knit garments -design or style: add. ease for particular look |
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-placement for:
fit design effect dividing space angles appearance of curves |
LINE
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appearance of symmetry
-left to right -front to back |
BALANCE
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slopers that join upper & lower body parts
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-elimination of waist seam-- garment can't nestle into waist as closely
-waist fitting darts above & below waistline must be merged-- double-pointed dart -recreate waistline seam that is dropped or elevated from whole torso sloper -even with extended "top", hip circumference must be considered |
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elimination of waist seam
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garment can not nestle into waist as closely
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waist fitting darts above & below waistline must be merged
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double-pointed dart
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fit variations for whohle torso sloper
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1. fitted
2. semi-fitted 3. straight; flared; loosely fitted |
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fitted whole torso sloper
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-darted in
-contoured in along side seam |
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semi-fitted whole torso sloper
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-smaller dart or eliminate dart
-slightly contouring along side seam |
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loosely fitted whole torso sloper
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-no dart
-straight along side seam |
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types of fitted torsos
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-sheath
-bustier -tank top -bolero -vest -blouse |
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types of semi-fitted torsos
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-shirt dress
-jumper -princess lines -A-line -blazer -princess coat -pull over sweater |
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types of straight torsos
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-shirt jacket
-box jacket -chemise -cardigan -shell -tunic -pea coat |
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types of flared or loose torsos
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-swing coat
-tent dress -smock dress -caftan -smoking jacket |
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set-in sleeve style
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cut seperate from body & sewn into armhole
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sleeve is extension of torso/shoulder
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cut-in-one with body
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sleeve cut seperate but extends
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raglan sleeve
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set-in sleeves are..
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most varied inn styling b/c offers great number of ways to change: in length & width, or shape
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types of set in sleeves
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-puff
-balloon -flair -bell -butterfly |
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types of cut-in-one styles
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-kimono
-dolman -batwing |
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joins 2 pieces
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seams
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treat any raw edge to reduce or eliminate it's exposure-- improve appearance or keep from raveling or curling
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edge finish
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edge finish applied to a seam
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seam finish
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edge finsh that turns the lower edge of garment to the inside
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hem
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why do seams & edge finished vary?
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-diff. fabric characteristics
-visibility or decorative purposes may vary -diff. garments & diff. locations on garments |
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how do seams & edge finishes vary?
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-diff. types of stitching
-diff. ways of connecting pieces -adding additional pieces |
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top-stitched seams
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-flat-felled
-welt |
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flat felled seams
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-very durable
-all raw edges folded inside seam -two rows of stitching |
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welt seam
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-plain or safety stitch seam pressed to one side & top stitched
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facing--a narrow bias strip of fabric, commercially or self-prepared, stitched to the garment & turned to the inside
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bias facing
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a facing area cut & shaped with a neckline & armhole combination-used in vests, halters, & boleros
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all-in-one facing
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facing cut in the same shape & grain as the area it will clean finish
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shaped facing
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facing unit cut im one piece with the garment & folded to the inside-- reduces bulk
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extended facing
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shaped narrow piece or bias tape planned to be visible on the outside of the garment
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outside facing
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