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53 Cards in this Set

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what differs in the front & back bodice slopers?
-neckline deeper in the front, with more of a curve
-more chest curve in front for bust
-deeper armhole in back
uppermost edge styling defined by shape & placement
neckline
an additional styled piece
collar
rounded neckline below neck
round
scoop
angled
V
square
straight
bateau/boat
straight & curved
sweetheart
opening
slit
keyhole
above the base
funnel
revealing
decolletage
plunging
off-the-shoulder
wrapped
surplice
can you hem a neckline?
-only with straight or almost straight, non-angled edges
-more commonly with knits
-cowls
simple neckline finishes
-band
-binding
the relationship of the garment shape & dimensions to the body
fit
why is good fit hard to achieve?
-multicultural population; many body types
-individual variations within body types
-inadequate updated data
-established assumptions about "average" body types & dimensions
-inherent to MASS production
how to improve good fit?
-more data: body scanning & more comprehensive body analysis
-software to apply data: to mass customization & to improved dimensional info. for sizing
pattern alteration techniques
-add or subtract length or width (pattern seamlines, dart lines, cutting & spreading or lapping pieces within pattern)
-how a garment rests on the body
-must hang correctly from primary support location (shoulders)
SET
-warp & weft grains should be supported as per the design
-wrinkles demonstrate problem
-warp should be perp. to floor at CF & CB
-weft should be parallel to floor across CF, CB
GRAIN
EASE
-functional=minimal
bust/chest= 2-4
waist= .5-1
hips= 1-2
less for knit garments
-design or style: add. ease for particular look
-placement for:
fit
design effect
dividing space
angles
appearance of curves
LINE
appearance of symmetry
-left to right
-front to back
BALANCE
slopers that join upper & lower body parts
-elimination of waist seam-- garment can't nestle into waist as closely
-waist fitting darts above & below waistline must be merged-- double-pointed dart
-recreate waistline seam that is dropped or elevated from whole torso sloper
-even with extended "top", hip circumference must be considered
elimination of waist seam
garment can not nestle into waist as closely
waist fitting darts above & below waistline must be merged
double-pointed dart
fit variations for whohle torso sloper
1. fitted
2. semi-fitted
3. straight; flared; loosely fitted
fitted whole torso sloper
-darted in
-contoured in along side seam
semi-fitted whole torso sloper
-smaller dart or eliminate dart
-slightly contouring along side seam
loosely fitted whole torso sloper
-no dart
-straight along side seam
types of fitted torsos
-sheath
-bustier
-tank top
-bolero
-vest
-blouse
types of semi-fitted torsos
-shirt dress
-jumper
-princess lines
-A-line
-blazer
-princess coat
-pull over sweater
types of straight torsos
-shirt jacket
-box jacket
-chemise
-cardigan
-shell
-tunic
-pea coat
types of flared or loose torsos
-swing coat
-tent dress
-smock dress
-caftan
-smoking jacket
set-in sleeve style
cut seperate from body & sewn into armhole
sleeve is extension of torso/shoulder
cut-in-one with body
sleeve cut seperate but extends
raglan sleeve
set-in sleeves are..
most varied inn styling b/c offers great number of ways to change: in length & width, or shape
types of set in sleeves
-puff
-balloon
-flair
-bell
-butterfly
types of cut-in-one styles
-kimono
-dolman
-batwing
joins 2 pieces
seams
treat any raw edge to reduce or eliminate it's exposure-- improve appearance or keep from raveling or curling
edge finish
edge finish applied to a seam
seam finish
edge finsh that turns the lower edge of garment to the inside
hem
why do seams & edge finished vary?
-diff. fabric characteristics
-visibility or decorative purposes may vary
-diff. garments & diff. locations on garments
how do seams & edge finishes vary?
-diff. types of stitching
-diff. ways of connecting pieces
-adding additional pieces
top-stitched seams
-flat-felled
-welt
flat felled seams
-very durable
-all raw edges folded inside seam
-two rows of stitching
welt seam
-plain or safety stitch seam pressed to one side & top stitched
facing--a narrow bias strip of fabric, commercially or self-prepared, stitched to the garment & turned to the inside
bias facing
a facing area cut & shaped with a neckline & armhole combination-used in vests, halters, & boleros
all-in-one facing
facing cut in the same shape & grain as the area it will clean finish
shaped facing
facing unit cut im one piece with the garment & folded to the inside-- reduces bulk
extended facing
shaped narrow piece or bias tape planned to be visible on the outside of the garment
outside facing