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32 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
The ______ is the highest point of a wave |
crest |
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The _____ is the lowest point of a wave |
trough |
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The wavelength is the _______ distance between two ______ waves (one right after the other). Can be measured crest to crest, or trough to trough. |
horizontal adjacent |
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______ ______ is the vertical distance between the waves crest and trough. |
Wave height |
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______ ____ is the time between the passage of two wave crests or troughs at a fixed point. |
Wave period |
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Breakers occur as deep-water waves become shallow-water waves. ______ eventually pulls the high wave crests down, causing them to crash into the ______ ______. |
Gravity
ocean floor |
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Surf is the area between the ____ ____ and the ___. |
breaker zone shore |
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_______ refers to white, foaming waves with very steep crests that break in the _____ _____ before the waves get close to the shore. |
Whitecap open ocean |
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_____ are rolling waves that move in a steady procession across the ocean. |
Swells |
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A Tsunami is waves that form when a ____ volume of ocean water is _____ moved up or down. |
large suddenly |
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A storm surge is a _____ rise in sea level near the _____ that is caused by strong winds from a storm, such as a ______. |
local shore hurricaine |
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______-_____ level is the average water level of the ocean between a wave crest and trough. |
Still-water |
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What is the formula for wave speed? |
Wavelength (m) ---------------------- = Wave speed (m/s) Wave period (s) |
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Deep-water waves form at depths ______ than 1/2 the wavelength. |
greater
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Shallow-water waves form at depths ______ than 1/2 the wavelength.
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less |
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Longshore currents are currents that run _____ to the shore. They cause the waves to hit the shore at an _____. They are responsible for movement of ______ along a coastline. |
parallel angle sediment |
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Name 5 causes of Tsunamis: |
1. Under water Earthquake 2. Volcanic eruptions 3. Land slides 4. Under water explosions 5. Meteorite/comet |
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Water particles typically move in a wave in a _____. |
circle |
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Most waves are generated by what force? |
wind |
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The _____ and _____ the wind blows, the bigger and faster the waves become. |
longer and further |
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______ and the ______ ocean contain the largest waves. The average wave height is __ meters in these areas. |
Antarctica and the Indian ocean 7 |
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A ______ _____ is a series of swells in the deep ocean that are _____ driven. |
wave train
wind |
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A ______ wave is a very large wave with high amounts of energy. They can cause ____ ____. |
rogue ship wrecks |
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At what depth does a wave become a shallow-water wave? |
At half of the wave length |
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_____ between the ____ ____ and the water causes the speed, direction and shape of waves to change as they enter shallow water. |
Friction sea floor |
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Waves topple over and break into the shore because wave energy is forced ______ causing the wave to lean ______. |
upward forward |
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_____ is the foaming sheets of water that are formed when waves ______ over each other. |
Swash topple |
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How can waves effect the shoreline (2)? |
1. Erode the shoreline
2. Create strong currents |
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Tsunamis travel at ____-____ miles per hour and the average wavelength is ___-___ miles. |
500-600 60-300 |
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Tsunami waves can reach ___ feet as they approach the coastline. |
100 |
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As the Tsunami approaches the coastline, water ______ _____ from the shore. |
pulls away |