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80 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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What do you talk about during a Merchandise Plan Meeting? |
- General direction of where the company is heading - Talk about how well/ not so well the company did LAST season (broken down by division) - Goals for each division - Financial goals (ie. 10% increase across board) - Current events (political/ economic climate) |
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What do you talk about during a Line Plan Meeting? |
- # of styles you're going to do - # of fabrics - # of colors - # of units we plan on making - size ranges for each category |
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Where do we shop for fabrics? |
- Trade shows - Textile Showrooms - Converters (convert greige goods-- unfinished fabrics-- into sellable goods) - Jobbers (buy things that companies aren't selling anymore so they can sell them for really cheap) |
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Examples of Textile Trade Shows |
Texworld - Paris/ NY Premiere Vision - Paris/ NY International Fashion Fabric Exhibition (IFFE) - NY Pitti Filati - Florence (yarns and knits) Semaine de Cuir - Paris (leather) Idea Como - Italy (silk) |
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Examples of textile showrooms |
Over 1,000 of these in NY - Cotton Incorporated - The Silk Council - Dupont (synthetics) - Eastmen Chemical (synthetics) |
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When we see a fabric, what do we want to know about it? |
- quality - 1 ply? 2 ply? - twist of the yarn? - fiber content - performance - how much shrinkage can I expect? - water repellants - finishes? - mill location? - yardage yield? How big is the piece? - cost of yardage? - quantities available? - minimums? - delivery dates? can you meet my deadlines? |
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Full package sourcing |
Where everything is bought and produced at one place |
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How can we make samples? |
- atelier --> where high end samples are made - work room --> where regular samples are made - tukatech 3D printing - Outsource it to be made (tech pack) - includes garment flats and spec sheet with exact measurements |
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Tolerance |
Allowed leighway for error (written on spec sheet) |
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Order of making sampling |
muslin --> 1st sample (working sample) --> fit session --> prototype --> production sample |
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supply chain |
- movement of information - development of product - design team and merch team = same team (both decisions change the supply chain) |
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subcontracting |
when a factory has to contract another factory to do one component of the construction of a garment ie. does not have necessary materials, machinery, or labor force to complete order - increases complexity of the supply chain |
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tooling up the factory |
when you get all the equipment necessary to cut and produce the garments and you arrange them in an efficient order (assembly line) |
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Bill of Lading |
every time we put goods on a mode of transportation, there's a shipping invoice called a bill of lading |
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Why do we weigh crates of goods at distribution? |
- it will effect cost - way to manage theft (ie. if left weighing this much and now it weighs this much... who is responsible?) |
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Logistics |
movement of goods - executive in charge of logistics - also may be called the traffic department strategies: consolidating your shipments, avoiding multiple trucks coming in at the same time, choosing right mode of transport for the region you're working in |
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Consumer demand / Demand Uncertainty |
one of the BIGGEST concerns in determining what to produce, how much, and when to deliver |
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What are we doing to lessen the risk, increase our knowledge of consumer demand, and maximize efficiency (so we don't have stock left over)? |
- lean retailing (cut to order instead of cut to stock) - linking the point of sales in store to the manufacturers for QUICK RESPONSE (CPFR) |
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Why Cut to stock vs. cut to order? |
- maximizes sales because you have extra - cut to order may be limiting yourself |
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CPFR |
Collaborative Planning, Forecasting, and Replenishment Sharing info among mills, fiber producers, retailers and factories |
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Threats to the Supply Chain |
- Weather/ Natural disasters - Infrastructure - Oil Prices for Transportation - Piracy/ Terrorism - Factory Accidents - Political Climate - Medical Issues (ie. virus outbreaks in africa) - Financial instability |
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How can we avoid some of these threats to the supply chain? |
Don't put all of your eggs in one basket |
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Yardage Yield |
the amount of garments that can be made from a single piece of cloth |
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Cutting techniques |
1. cutting knife (jigsaw) 2. water pressure 3. laser cutter |
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Dye methods |
1. yarn dyeing (need for stripes and plaids 2. fiber dyeing - natural dyeing = stock dyeing - synthetic dyeing = solution dyeing 3. garment dyeing (quick and easy, broader range of colors, respond quicker to trends, lower quality, fades easily and uneven) |
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Blended sourcing |
when you use different sources for the same garment (making the same style in more than one country) Problems: consistency of quality and price will be different (different duty rates & labor costs) |
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Full Package Sourcing |
The situation whereby piece goods and trims are bought from the very company that is contracted to do the apparel production ie. Vietnam and China |
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Steps in Producing Garments |
- design inspiration - design sketch (hand or CAD) - fabric/ finding/ trim selection - Make the pattern and fit - Make a muslin - Muslin will become prototype - Once your sample is approved for the line, it's costed - Manufacturer buys fabric, trims, and findings - Make production pattern and fit - Pattern is graded - A Marker is made for all sizes - Write a cutting ticket - Receive and cut fabric - Write a sewing ticket - Bundle the garments - Underpress the garments - Add buttons and hems - Top pressing - Quality Control inspects garments - Shipping |
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How is "consumer" different from "customer" ? |
- The "customer" of a mill is a wholesaler - "consumers" are not concerned with mills |
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Where do the mills buy from? Where do the wholesalers buy from? |
- mills buy from the fiber houses - wholesalers buy from the mills |
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Cutting ticket |
a production requisition (request) that is a contract for apparel manufacturing |
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Sewing ticket |
Assembly instructions that are attach to each set of cut fabrics/ bundled garment pieces prior to construction |
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Supply Chain #1 material --> manufacturer (factory) |
mills trims packaging labels fabrics findings (hidden components of clothing that support the construction/ shape of garment) **remember: cutting is usually done in a different factory |
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Supply Chain # 2 manufacturer --> retail |
- Factory --> in land transport - port - sea carrier - port - customs - in land transport - distribution center - retailers |
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Cross- docking |
going from the truck that brings garments to the distribution center straight to the truck that takes it to the retail store does not need to be unpacked in the distribution center thanks to RFID technology (can save days) |
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RFID |
Radio Frequency Identification - costs more but saves time & knowledge - gives more transparency for where all of your goods are at all times - tells you what's in the box (fiber content, units, etc.) - customs can scan boxes without opening |
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Legislation to help fight terrorism |
C-T-PAT --> customs trade partnership against terrorism - legislation passed in 2001 after 9/11 - if you have packages inspected at the factory and put it in special containers with special seals on them that cannot be broken, when your goods get to America, they will go to the front of the line - costs more but speeds things up at customs |
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CMT |
tells us how much a garment will cost to make Cut (fabric) Make (labor) Trim |
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Pattern Grading |
Altering the specs of a sample garment pattern in order to create patterns for all the sizes in that model's range Everything has to get shrunk/ expanded proportionately (usually done on digital software) |
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Marker |
- someone who makes a marker - a blueprint of the layout of pattern pieces on the fabric (a cutting guide) |
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3 Elements to Quality |
1) Fit 2) Material 3) Construction (ie. single needle, double needle, seam allowance) |
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Prototype (working sample) |
the working sample of a garment in its intended fabric that is still being fitted and corrected |
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Lab Dip |
A sample of yarn or fabric dyed to specifications and sent to the merch/ designer for approval |
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Strike off |
A sample of a print on woven or knit fabric sent to the merchandiser/ designer for approval |
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Knit Down |
a small piece of fabric of interlocking loops whereby the yarns have been dyed to create a pattern and then sent to the merch/ designer for approval |
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What is the Merchandise Calendar and why is it considered the critical path to a successful season? |
- extremely important tool used for the production of a line - includes all of the activities that need to take place, who will perform each activity, and deadlines the activities must be completed by - if one step on the calendar goes wrong, it all goes wrong (domino effect) |
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How can you increase the speed and efficiency of the Materials to Manufacture supply chain |
- consolidate the number of mills you source from (smaller number) - consider full package sourcing |
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Single needle |
- higher quality - higher stitcher per inch (spi count) - stronger - less likely to rip or pucker - requires more time |
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Double needle |
- used for lower quality garments (mass produced) - often results in puckering over time |
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What do we want to know when hiring a factory to do our production? |
- capability to produce garments? ie. labor and machinery - follow our ethical codes of compliance? - can they produce our quantities? - can they meet our delivery dates on time? - can they produce at our desired cost? - do they have a solid infrastructure? - does this location offer the best deal when considering duty rates? |
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Tukatec |
A company that specializes in digitalized, virtual sampling where brands can create garment samples online and see how garments fit on digital models without having to use any materials |
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EOQ |
Economic Order Quantity Important tool for apparel line management that tells you how many quantities of each style you have/ need to replenish in order to maximize profit |
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Confinement |
the exclusivity of a fabric ie. you buy it and nobody else in your market can buy it can be negotiated |
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60 Singles Fabric |
60 gauge of twist (tightness of twist) Single ply yarn (number of yarns) = moderate quality 80-120 is a higher quality twist |
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Pitch Sheet |
Instructions on how to recolor a print Document that is used when created dye to match fabric/ materials Includes desired colors/ where on the garment we want to dye, style #, fabric, etc. |
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Compliance Regulations |
Ethical codes of conduct that are specified by each brand concerning who can work in factories (ie. no children), worker wages/ hours, safety conditions, etc. There are no laws that enforce these regulations. It is an agreement between brands and their suppliers. |
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Merchandise Calendar (order of events) |
- Merchandise Plan Meeting - Fabric Order - Line Plan Meeting - Style Development & Costing - Line Adoption Meeting (rank styles) - Specs & Patterns Approved - Manufacturing Plan Meetings - Production Approval - Shipping - Retail - Season Critique |
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Lean Manufacturing |
- less labor - shorter work cycles (ie. shifts on the assembly line... mix things up = higher quality work) - smaller inventories - less investment than mass production aimed to achieve highest productivity & turnover --> minimize waste (producing for real demand) ie. Toyota, Benetton |
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Lean Production techniques |
- shorter lead times - custom orders - small batch sizes - high inventory turnovers - high flexibility - low cost of goods sold |
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Major Issues with Supply Chain Management |
1) Managing Inventory (insufficient quantities) 2) Managing Suppliers 3) Risk Mitigation 4) Cost controls |
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How do we increase Gross Margin? |
- Decrease cost of goods sold - ie. quantity discounts cash discounts for paying earlier shipping discounts - Increase sales ie. better buying (on trend) better retail management (stocked) |
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4 Supply Chain Flows |
1. Information Flow 2. Primary Cash Flow 3. Primary Product Flow 4. Reverse Product Flow |
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Information Flow |
- sales info (CPFR) - ethical info (treatment of animals/ animal testing) - invoices (payments) - orders (material, construction, delivery to stores, etc.) |
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Primary Cash Flow |
<------------------ - payments coming in from product sales |
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Primary Product Flow |
-----------------> - Fiber - Yarns/ Fabric - Trims/ Findings - Packaging - Services/ Shipping |
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Inverse Product Flow |
<--------------- Customer returns Damages Discounters Factory Outlet Stores |
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Synchronization |
When all levels of the supply chain have access to the same information about our shipments |
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Duties & Tariffs |
Duty: import tax (applied to everything that is imported) Tariff: value added taxes on top of duties (not everything gets a tariff) |
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HTS |
Harmonized Tariff Schedule list of all duty and tariff rates among trading nations of the world |
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Customs Broker |
Writes the check to pay your duties and tariffs |
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Consolidator |
Keeps track of packaging (when your stuff hits the port, they put it aside and wait for all of your other classifications to arrive and put everything in the same container) important because you can't merchandise a partial collection |
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How do you take the make out of a garment? |
fewer spi double needle rather than single change the fabric singly ply yarn rather than 2 ply less twist in yarn cheaper trims take steps out of assembly line avoid dyed to match products |
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Import Coordinator |
- signs off all paperwork involving country of origin, classification, valuation - they are responsible for the truth of all this |
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Costing agents |
constantly costing because things change ie. oil prices go up = increase transport cost ie. fabric destroyed = pay more to make more |
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Scheduling Clerk |
- works directly with logistics/ traffic departments - keeps charts of calendars/ scheduling - works according to delivery needs - negotiates transport modes |
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Purchasing agents |
- keep track of orders/ deliveries - separated by findings, trims, and buttons (ie. big companies have one person for buttons) |
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Production Assistant |
- broken down by classification - oversees production (scheduling) |
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Production Manager |
Responsible for making sure that everyone meets their deadlines |
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seam allowance |
the space between the raw edge and the seam (mark of quality) makes for ease of alterations |
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Landed Cost |
CMT + Shipping & taxes/ duties |
