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81 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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the finished non fraying edge of a length of woven fabric
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selvage
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yarn that runs parallel to the selvage edge
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warp
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yarn that runs perpendicular to the selvage edge
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weft/filling
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orientation of yarns in a woven fabric
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fabric grain
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stronger
better dimensional stability |
fabric grain: lengthwise
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more stretch
less strength |
fabric grain: crosswise
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perpendicular position of warp yarns in relation to filling yarns (90 degree angle)
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straight-of-grain
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any direction of the fabric other than the parallel and perpendicular positions to the selvage edge (skewed)
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off grain
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doing so creates a drape, and a relaxed look, body and movement (x wise stitching)
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bias
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why does a bias matter?
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1. appear softer
2. have more stretch 3. have fabric that appears "thinner" than the same fabric cut on the straight grain 4. require more yardage |
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How to tell if a fabric is suitable for a bias cut
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-fold fabric on the diagonal to get a feel for the way the fabric responds and feels on the bias
-compare different firber,s weights, and textures. Notice how much the fabrics stretch on the bias, how a plain weave takes on a new texture, a twill weave loses its definition, and plaids and stripes become diagonal lines. |
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poor choices for bias include:
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-most rayons (to stretchy)
-twills (lose definition) -fabrics that are heavy, or stiff, like duck or poplin |
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required at body curve locations
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bust
abdomen hips buttocks shoulders elbows |
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garment construction features used to shape fabric to the curves of the body
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darts: shaping method
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straight, for an easy fit
curved, for a closer to the body fit |
darts
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typically found in the bust, waist, and hip areas where the body is most contoured
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darts
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seams sewn to add shape or contour at a particular location on the garment
-more fitted and detailed |
shaped seams
-princess seams |
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horizontal paneled divisions; an entire extra piece of fabric sewn in
-can be functional -decorative |
yoke
-the back of a cowboys shirt |
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vertical, triangular paneled divisions; eliminates excess fabric at waistline while providing fullness at hem
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gores
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circular inserts set into a slash or seam
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godets
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how can fullness be achieved
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-letting darts out
-cutting panels longer |
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drawing together small folds of fabric
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gathering
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sewing stitches over parallel rows of gathers made in the body of a garment
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shirring
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sewing decorative stitches over gathered fabric
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smocking
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accordian
box inverted knife |
pleats
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pieces of fabric set into a seam to provide shape and fullness
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gussets
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outline/shape
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silhouette
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a "type"/ variations of garments or garment parts (such as sleeves)
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style
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armscye
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armhole
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3 common types of sleeves
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set-in
kimono raglan |
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sleeve length
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cutaway
sleeveless dropped cap short |
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consist of all components of a garment except the body fabric
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findings
-trims, labels, threads, elastics, supportive fabrics, closures |
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decorative materials that adorn garment
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trims
Ex. of findings |
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linings and interfacings
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supportive fabrics
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buttons, zippers, snaps
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closures
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-must meet standards comparable to what the garment must meet
-manufacturers typically rely on the standards knowledge of the findings/trim suppliers themselves -extensive testing |
Specifications for findings and trim performance
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Do they complement the other materials in the garment?
-Color, pattern, consistency in style |
Aesthetic performance
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influence of trim/finding on these elements
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utility
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Shrinkage, elongation, and elasticity
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dimensional stability
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abrasion resistance, colorfastness, heat resistance
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appearance retention
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ease of care
comfort durability (serviceability): strength, abrasion resistance, degradation |
utility
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manufacturer
care woven or non-woven |
labels
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yarn that forms the stitches that hold a garment together
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thread
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ribbons
braids lace eyelet beaded/sequin trims Appliques (decorative fabric patches applied to garment |
Trim
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fasteners that secure garment openings
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closures
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eyed
shanked decorative or functional |
buttons
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-allow for more fitted appearance than buttons
-good for back closures -usually less costly than buttons -Parts: top stop, slider, pull, chain, bottom stop |
Zipper (closures)
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two interlocking parts
easy to conceal various sizes |
hook and eyes
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lend shape and support to garments
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underlying fabrics
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has warp and weft direction, which creates stability and strength; used for light to heavy weight
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woven interfacing
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made of mfg. fibers; paper-like sheets; more crisp; stiff
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non-wovens
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number assigned to range of set measurements
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numbered women sizing
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body measurements
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numbered men sizing
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preferable for manufacturers because of greater flexibility in garment cut
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"lettering" sizes
-XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL -Petite, Short, Average/Regular, Long, Tall |
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Slender, less-curvaceous figure; higher bust and waistline; odd-numbering system
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Junior
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5/6 is an example of
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double-ticking
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standard adult women's
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sizes 0-14
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women's adult full figured
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sizes 16-24
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sub-classification of misses and women's designed for women 5'4 and shorter
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petites
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sub-classification of misses and women's designed for women 5'7 and taller
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Talls
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rib cage circumference just under breast
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measurement (bra size)
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fullest measurement subtract bra size measurement
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cup size
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number corresponding to a hip measurement
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panty size
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reflecting age of wearer (through not an accurate indication of the size a particular child should we wear)
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numbered sizing in children's wear
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birth to 24 months
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infants
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24 months to 3 years; round body shapes; no body definition; difference is less room for diapers
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toddlers
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3-6 years; greater body proportion distinction
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childrens
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ages 7-11; definition of waist, flat chest
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girls
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ages 7-17
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boys
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take measurements over your underwear, not clothing
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measuring fit
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always measure using the start of the measuring tape
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measuring fit
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take the body measurements (do not stretch or pull the tape)
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measuring fit
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take measurements while facing a mirror, or by having someone help you
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measuring fit
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lengthwise, yarns of the fabric need to run parallel to the length of the body
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On grain
-base of the neck -on sleeves from shoulder to cuff -center front and center back |
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refers to a smooth fit without undesirable wrinkles
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set
-poor set is a result of poor fit |
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alignment of structural lines of the body garment with the natural lines of the body
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Line
-darts, seams, necklines, armholes, waistlines |
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right and left halves of the garment appear evenly balanced, or symmetrical, when viewed from the front, back, or sides
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balance
-result of problems in other fit components (grain, line, set) |
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refers to the amount of roominess in a garment...the difference between the measurements of the garment and the measurements of the body
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ease
-fitting, design ease |
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-Focus of entire line or group of garments
-influence of society |
Developing a theme
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-Source fabric
-Formal sketches and first drafts |
Developing the garment
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-Edit the line
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Constructing production samples
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