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7 Cards in this Set
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What are the 4 aspects responsible for the appearance of a fabric? 1. Fabric construction (knit vs weave + what kind) 2. Yarn construction 3. Fabric composition 4. Fabric finishing |
Filaments: Endless length of fibre, either synthetic or cellulose Fibres: Short and cut in pieces |
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Cotton: - Flat & twisted - low elasticity - strong - fibre is almost pure cellulose - Wetting test: stronger - Burning test: burns rapidly, smells like burned paper. |
Staple length: average length of a fibre Short Staple fibres: easily pulled w/ many exposed ends Long Staple fibres: less ends, higher quality |
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Mercerizing: gives cotton more lustre and strength, treated under tension Man made fibres: Cellulose, Viscose, Nylon (Polyamide) & Polyacryl (usually faux fur) Spinning: process of converting staple fibres into yarn Interlocking: Twisting loose fibres or filaments in yarn, 2 needle beds, both sides the same Folded: Twisting of two yarns together |
How to describe fabric: - Drape - Surface - Handle - Weight - Colour/Degree of lustre -Mood |
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Linen: - irregular structure - fibre - gives weird results in a burning test - Burning test: burns quickly, afterglow, burnt paper, pale grey ashes - darker than cotton - Wetting test: stronger than cotton is when wet |
Cellulose: - Foundation of all plants - creases easily - cool and comfortable |
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Knits: - Single : stretchy lengthwise and widthwise - Double: RR width, LL length, thicker, stronger and heavier - RR: plain on both sides - LL: knit looks like squiggly lines - Weft: always horizontal, interlocked with row before - Warp: lengthwise/ zig zag direction |
- Double jersey : both sides identical, doesn't unravel when cut - Wale: amount of needles (width) - Course: amount of rows (length) |
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Finishing: - As late as possible in the chain - Changes the fabric appearance (adding or removing properties, i.e. shrinking, creasing, ironing) |
Yarns: - Continuous strand of natural or synthetic fibres twisted. - Fibre Yarn: exists out of loose fibres, hairy - Filament Yarn: smooth & thin, multi + mono filament |
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Circular approach: - Textile to textile recycling is when you unravel a garment and use the thread to create something new - Principles of a circular economy: materials, energy, ecosystem, value, health, society - |
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