1401 Test 3

Front 1

Knit Fabrics

Back 1

Knit fabrics can be hand knitted or knitted on a variety of knitting machines. They are broadly divided into weft (also known as filling knits) and warp knits.

Front 2

Weft Knits

Back 2

are produced by interloping the yarn in the horizontal weftor filling) direction

· Hand knitting needles, circular knittingmachines, and flat machines are used to produce weft knits.

· Weft knitscan unravel; warp knits do notunravel

· Weft knitstypically stretch more

Front 3

Warp Knits

Back 3

are produced by interloping the yarns in the vertical (warp)direction

· They are manufactured on knitting machines witha warp beam, similar to that used for weaving.

Front 4

End Uses for Knitted Goods

Back 4

· Knittedyard goods (fabric) · Knittedend products (hosiery, sweaters)

· Textile knitting mills typically produce eitherknitted yard goods or knitted end products

· Knitted end products are complete knittedproducts such as hosiery, undergarments, caps, scarves, sweaters, cardigans,and dresses

· Majority of the knitted end products are fullfashioned items.

Front 5

Classification Systems of Weft Knits

Back 5

· The first system divides the weft knits into single and double weft knits based onthe sets of yarns producing the baseknit

· The second system divides weft knits based on type of machine used for knitting

Front 6

Wale

Back 6

is "a column of loops lying lengthwise in the fabric. The number of wales per inch is a measure of the fineness of the fabric"

Front 7

Course

Back 7

is "the row of loops or stitches running across a knit fabric, corresponding to the filling in woven fabrics"

Front 8

Fabric Count

Back 8

for knits is the number of wales by number of courses per inch. For example, a fabric with 18 wales and 21 courses per inch is written as 18 x 21 and read as 18 by 21. The fabric count of knit fabrics is often lower than that of woven fabrics.

Front 9

Gauge

Back 9

is "the number of needles per given distance in a knitting machine"

Note: The higher the gauge, the finer the knit

Front 10

Knit Stitch

Back 10

is a stitch in which the lower part of the loop(V shape) appears on the fabric face and horizontal ridges are on the fabricback. Also known as plain stitch. Knits stitch used for jersey knits, is themost commonly used stitch.

Front 11

Purl Stitch

Back 11

is astitch in which the top half of the loop (semicircle) appears on the fabricback. Purl, the second most common stitch, is the reverse of knit stitch. It iscombined with knit stitch to produce rib and purl knits."

Front 12

Tuck

Back 12

the needle holds the loop from the previous row in addition to the new loop.

Front 13

Miss or Float Stitch

Back 13

is a stitch in which the loop form the previousrow does not form a loop. As a result, the “missed stitch” appears as astraight line on the fabric back.

Front 14

Jersey Knit

Back 14

known as single or plain knit, has rows of V shapes knitstitches on the technical dace and semi-circular loops on the back

· It is the simplest type and requires the leastamount of yarn.

Front 15

Rib Knits

Back 15

are characterized by a vertical rib design on both sides ofthe fabric, formed by alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row

· Rib knits are commonly used for cuffs andcollars; they have excellent horizontal stretch and recovery

Front 16

Purl Knits

Back 16

is a reversible knit characterized by semicircular shapes that form "waves" on both sides of the fabric. They are produced by alternating one row of knit with one row of purl stitch. The semicircular loop of purl stitch is commonly more visible than the v-shaped knit stitch, which can be seen more clearly by stretching the fabric along the length. More expensive to produce

• Purl knit is used for winter scarves as it is a reversible knit; it Is popular in baby sweaters, classic cardigans, and golf sweaters for men.

Front 17

Cable Knit

Back 17

are produced by loop transfer to create a cable pattern. Jersey, rib, or purl can be used as the base knit for cable knits.

Front 18

Single Knit Jacquard's

Back 18

are produced by using different types of yarn (including different colors), stitches, and loop formations (including transferring loops from one needle to another). Both circular and flat knitting machines can produce single knit jacquards. Jacquard jersey, intarsia, and cable knits are examples of single knit jacquards.

Front 19

Pile Jersey

Back 19

Pile knit fabrics are typically produced with a jersey base.

Pile jersey knits are produced by: Either including an extra set of filling yarns on one or both sides of the jersey knit base. Knitted terry (uncut pile) and terry velour (cut pile) are produced with extra filling yarns.

Note: Knitted terry and velour have the ability to stretch; thus, they have different end uses as compared to those fabrics with a woven base.

For example, woven terrycloth is commonly used for towels, whereas knitted terry is used for baby towels with hoods for which the fabric's ability to stretch is desirable.Or inserting fibers (from slivers) as tufts while the stitches are being formed. The pile is formed on the technical back of the jersey knit fabric. A wide variety of knit pile fabrics are produced by inserting slivers. High pile knits such as faux furs or artificial furs and pile fabrics used for lining in winter coats and jackets are examples of pile jersey knits with slivers (sliver knits).

Front 20

Double Weft Knit

Back 20

Double weft knit is a heavier, more stable weft knit construction in which each course is produced by interlooping two sets of yarns into two inseparable layers of loops. Pulling a yarn unravels only one set of loops without splitting the fabric. Double weft knits include double jersey, interlock, double knit, (double) rib knit, and double knit jacquard. The categorization of these varies considerably. Some people call double jersey and interlock simply "double knits." Similarly, variations of interlock and double jersey are considered double knits by some and jacquard double knits by others. (Double) rib knits are rarely called double knits but simply referred to as rib knits. Double weft knits are produced on flat or circular rib knitting machines with two sets of needles and needle beds, as well as by electronic jacquard knitting machines.

Front 21

Interlock

Back 21

are produced on rib knitting machines with two needle beds in which each needle bed consists of alternating long and short needles. The short needles in one needle bed are positioned directly behind the long needles in the second needle bed. This arrangement is known as interlock gait. Two yarns are used to knit two inseparable layers with one yarn creating loops with the short needles on both needle beds and the second yarn using the long needles. Interlock knitting is slower as both sets of yarns do not operate simultaneously to knit one course. Interlock knit fabric has a 1x1 rib knit appearance on both sides of the fabric. It is commonly used for undergarments and knitted shirts. Interlock knits are often produced in solid colors.

Front 22

Double Jersey

Back 22

are produced on rib knitting machines with two needle beds in which each needle bed consists of the same size needles. The needles in one needle bed are positioned in the gap between the needles (not directly behind) on the second needle bed. Double jersey looks like a jersey knit from both sides (reversible fabric). The images show the stitches produced in two rows (1 and 2) that correspond to two needle beds. Note that the stitches in row 2 are between those in row 1, as the needles in the back row correspond to the position of the needle bed that created that row which was positioned between the needles that created the forward row (row 1). Double jersey knits are faster to produce than interlock, as both yarns knit simultaneously. Double jersey knit has a jersey appearance on both sides of the fabric. To differentiate between interlock and double jersey knit, unravel the yarn from the top and compare the placement of the loops in the images. Note: Interlock is more traditionally a cotton or cotton blend fabric used in more casual clothes, and double jersey has more traditionally been a dressier fabric made from wool or synthetic fibers.

Front 23

Double Knit

Back 23

is a term used to describe a large variety of double weft knit fabrics. Double jersey and interlock knits described above are used as the basis for double knit fabrics. Various stitch types are incorporated to add design and texture in double knit fabrics. Piqué knit, commonly used for golf/polo shirts, is an example of a double knit that is a variation of interlock knit.

Front 24

Jacquard Double Knit

Back 24

fabric is "a patterned fabric made on a knitting machine. The design may be multicolored or formed by different types of knit stitches. Jacquard double-knits can be produced by joining the two layers of loops in some areas and leaving the layers separate in others to form a raised design" (Source - Dictionary of Fiber and Textile Technology). The term jacquard is used to describe these types of knits because the ability to create intricate designs is similar to that of a jacquard loom. Double knit jacquards are produced by varying the yarns as well as the stitches and loop formation to produce a variety of fabrics. Two very different designs can be knitted on each side of the jacquard double knit fabrics. Double knit jacquard designs that resemble woven fabric designs such as houndstooth are sometimes referred to by those names. Sculptured knits, blister knits and raised design knits are terms used for jacquard double knits in which the raised area can be separated from the base fabric.

Front 25

Types of Warp Knits

Back 25

Tricot and Rachel

Front 26

End uses for everything

Back 26

Weft knits dominate the T-shirt and sweater/cardigan industries.Jacquard jersey knit is commonly used for children's apparel and accessories.Jacquard jersey knit is used extensively to produce winter apparel accessories, including caps, scarves, and gloves.Reversible knits such as purl and 1x1 rib are used for winter scarves; both sides of the scarf can be seen.Weft knits dominate the swimwear and athleticwear industry.Weft knits dominate the hosiery industry; they are used for men's, ladies', and children's undergarments.Weft knits with metallic yarns are used for women's formal blouses, dresses, and gowns.Weft knits, especially light-reflecting knits, are used in sneakers and other sports shoes

Front 27

Tricot Knits

Back 27

are produced on flat knitting machines with relatively uniform smooth or textured filament yarns. Spring beard or compound needles used in tricot knit machines are designed to knit with uniform filament yarns. Tricot knits do not unravel, split or run as the loops are formed by interlacing with adjacent yarns. Basic tricot fabrics have vertical v-shaped stitches on the technical face of the fabric and slanted horizontal lines on the technical back of the fabric. The slanted horizontal lines, known as underlaps, are created by the movement of yarns sideways from one needle to another in the interlooping process.

Front 28

Jersey Tricot

Back 28

is used in linings or lingerie

Front 29

Satin Tricot

Back 29

as well as brushedtricot, the design face is the technical back. In satin tricot, the smoothsurface is produced by the long underlaps. In brushed tricot, the underlaps arenapped to produce a fuzzy surface. Satin tricot, brushed tricot, and piletricot are variations of basic tricot knit fabric in which the design face isthe technical back of the fabric.

Front 30

Brushed Tricot

Back 30

refer to Satin Tricot

-are used for pocketing or lining

Front 31

Rachel

Back 31

knitting machines are very versatile machines that are used to produce a wide variety of fabrics ranging from fine lace to floor coverings. Spun and filament yarns of varying thickness can be used to produce raschel knit fabrics. A raschel knitting machine consists of one or two needle beds with latch-type needles. Basic raschel knits consist of one set of yarns that produce a "pillar stitch," which resembles a chain stitch, and other yarns that fill in the area between the pillars. As the name suggests, pillars produced along the fabric length provide strength. The yarns that are interlooped or interlaid between the pillars are used to create the design.

Front 32

Basic Rachel

Back 32

are produced very economically for applications such as packaging bagsfor fruits and vegetables and decorative net fabrics. In these and other basicraschel knits, the laid-in yarns can easily be pulled to split the fabric.

Front 33

Flat Lace

Back 33

including those knitted with intricate designs, are produced usingmultiple guide bars. Multiple bars enable the yarns to be carried sideways, andto an extent diagonally, to produce intricate designs. More complex designs areproduced on computerized, jacquard raschel knitting machines. Note: Laceproduced on raschel knitting machines is often considerably cheaper than lacemade in more traditional ways. Thus, much of the lower- to medium-priced lacein the market is raschel knitted lace.qYMb0

Front 34

Raised Lace

Back 34

are produced by using a "fall plate" to lay but not interloopan extra set of yarns to form the raised pattern. The extra set of yarns isheld between the stitches, allowing expensive, handmade"re-embroidered" laces to be replicated at a small fraction of thecost.

Front 35

Rachel Mesh

Back 35

is formed by using the multiple guide bars to produce an open structure.These fabrics are often in active sportswear such as basketball uniforms, asthe inside layer in men's swimwear, and for laundry bags.

Note: Mesh and netscan also be produced on tricot machines

Front 36

Pile Warp

Back 36

are produced by inserting an extra set of yarns to form the pile. Pilewarp knits are produced on raschel and tricot knitting machines. Pile knits areused to produce faux or imitation fur, fabrics used in car interiors, andcommercial grade carpets.

Front 37

Power Net

Back 37

commonly used for foundation garments and insome swimwear, is produced by interlooping nylon yarns around spandex laid-inyarns. This yields fabric with controlled stretch.

Front 38

Spacer Warp Knits

Back 38

are 3-dimensional fabrics produced on raschel knitting machines. The twofabric layers knitted simultaneously on two needle bar machines are connectedby spacer (often monofilament) yarns. Note: For some designs, two needle barmachines with as many as 16 guide bars (2 for each side and 12 for connection)are used. Spacer knits are used for applications such as athletic shoes, carseat covers, office chairs, and mattresses. These fabrics are used in place ofcushioning materials such as foam and neoprene.

Front 39

Nonwoven Fabric

Back 39

is“a manufactured sheet, batting, webbing, or fabric that is held together byvarious methods, e.g. thermal fusion, resin and solvent bonding, or mechanicalinterlocking of fibers, sometimes concurrently with their extrusion.

Front 40

Web Formations

Back 40

· Web formation depends on fiber length.

Front 41

Common End uses for Felt

Back 41

Felted Woolen Hat

Front 42

Staple Fiberwebs

Back 42

areused to produce nonwovens from natural staple fibers (e.g., cotton) or frommanufactured staple fibers (e.g., rayon).

Front 43

Wet Laid Method

Back 43

The wet laid process in which the web is produced by filtering the short fibers from an aqueous suspension onto a screen belt or perforated drum is similar to papermaking. This method produces a relatively uniform fiber web with random fiber orientation. The fibers that are entangled in the water medium may require an adhesive or bonding agent; heat sensitive fibers can be melted to bond the fibers. This is one of the fastest and least expensive methods of manufacturing fabrics.

Front 44

Dry Laid Method

Back 44

The dry laid method utilizes either an air laid process to produce webs with random orientation, or a carded process to produce webs in which the fibers are oriented in a specific direction. The carded process lays fibers along the fabric length (parallel) or lays them as layers along the length and width of the fabric (cross laid). Fiber orientation affects properties such as strength and drape. The web is then bonded using a chemical, mechanical, or thermal method.

Front 45

Polymer or spunlaid process makes webs directly from manufactured filament fibers.

Back 45

*****

Front 46

What are the three types of bonding?

Back 46

Mechanical, Thermal, Chemical

Front 47

Mechanical Bonding

Back 47

fibers are entangled or stitched to hold them in place and add strength. Spunlacing, needle punching, and stitch bonding are examples of mechanical bonding.

Spunlacing/hydroentangling utilizes water to entangle typically dry laid fibers. It is sometimes used with wet laid and spun laid webs. Spunlacing is often used to produce soft fabrics with good drapability.

Needle punching, as the name suggests, utilizes barbed needles to entangle the staple fiber webs. This method is used to produce nonwoven carpets and material made of manufactured fibers that resemble wool felts.

Stitch bonding utilizes chain or tricot stitch to hold the fiber web together. Stitch bonding is used for end uses such as window shades and glove liners.

Front 48

Thermal Bonding

Back 48

heat is used to fuse and bond fibers. Only thermoplastic fibers can be thermally bonded. Sometimes sheath-core bicomponent fibers with a sheath made of polymer with a low melting point or binder fibers with a low melting point are used to thermally bond fibers. Two commonly used thermal bonding methods are fusing polymer web fibers that are still in a semi-solid stage as well as point bonding. In point bonding, the fibers are fused in certain areas or points by passing the web through a calendering machine with an engraved roller that is heated to a set temperature to fuse the fibers.

Front 49

Chemical Bonding

Back 49

resins or binders are used to bond the fibers. The properties of the nonwoven fabric are affected by the chemical used for bonding. Chemical choice depends on intended end use. For example, chemical bonding is typically suitable for most food packaging and personal hygiene products.

Front 50

Multi-component Fabrics

Back 50

consist of two or more fabrics or materials that are combined to form a new product. The performance of the new product is different from that of individual fabrics and/or materials used to produce the multicomponent fabric. The fabrics are broadly divided into quilted, bonded, laminated, and coated fabrics.

Front 51

Quilted Fabrics

Back 51

are produced by stitching two or more layers of materials together, either by hand or by machine.Conventional thread methods and ultrasonic threadless methods are used to produce quilted materials. In the stitched with thread method, layers of material are held together and stitched by hand (as in traditional hand quilting) or by machine (on large flatbed quilting machines). The lines of stitching form geometrical or other patterns.In the threadless method, layers are fused together at various points. The points of fusing, which often appear as small dots or lines, form geometrical or other patterns to resemble quilted fabrics stitched with thread. These fabrics are often used for mattress pads and in some lower cost comforters.

Front 52

Bonded Fabrics

Back 52

are produced by joining two or more layers of fabric with a resin, foam, rubber, or adhesive

Front 53

Laminated Fabrics

Back 53

are generally produced by joining a layer of fabric with a layer of film or a membrane, using a resin or adhesive. In two-layer laminated fabrics, a fabric (woven, knitted, or nonwoven) is typically laminated to an air impermeable film or microporous membrane. In three-layer laminates, the film or membrane is sandwiched between two fabrics or vice versa. GORE-TEX® and a few limited-use fabrics used for protective apparel are examples of laminated fabrics with microporous membrane. Note: The laminated layers can often be separated by pulling them apart.

Front 54

Coated Fabrics

Back 54

are produced by coating fabric surfaces with a resin, rubber, vinyl, or other material. The coating is applied to the face or back of the fabric, depending on intended end use. Some coated fabrics may be damaged during sewing due to the hole made when the needle pushes through the fabric. Holes created by stitching may widen during use as the fabric near the seams is pulled in different directions. The durability of coated fabrics varies considerably depending on the type of coating, as well as environmental and other conditions in use. Some coatings crack after extended use.

Front 55

Open-Mesh Fabrics

Back 55

lace, net, and macramé are produced using hand and machine processes. Open-mesh is not a fabric construction technique, but several techniques are used to create open-mesh fabrics.

Front 56

Lace

Back 56

isa decorative open-mesh fabric construction, originally produced by hand

Front 57

Bobbin Lace

Back 57

is made by plaiting the thread around pins inserted on a pillow to create the design. The designs are created by using two sets of threads at one time.

Front 58

Dyes

Back 58

are "substances that add color to textiles. They are incorporated into the fiber by chemical reaction, absorption, or dispersion. Dyes differ in their resistance to sunlight, perspiration, washing, gas, alkalis, and other agents; their affinity for different fibers; their reaction to cleaning agents and methods; and their solubility and method of application" (Source - Dictionary of Fiber and Textile Technology). Dyes are commonly used to color textiles materials at all stages of dyeing; pigments are used in solution dyeing or mass pigmentation. Dyes can be natural or synthetic.

Front 59

Natural Dyes

Back 59

are obtained from materials found in nature. They have limited commercial value, but are popular in certain niche markets such as dyeing of organic natural fibers, and dyeing and printing of certain traditional and ethnic textiles. Natural dyes are also popular among fiber artists. The method of collection and storage affects the color of certain natural dyes

Front 60

Synthetic Dyes

Back 60

are chemically synthesized. The majority of fabrics are dyed with synthetic dyes, as they are relatively cheaper, available in a wide range of colors, and produce more consistent results from one batch to another. Chemical composition is used by manufacturers to classify dyes

Front 61

Pigment

Back 61

is "an insoluble, finely divided substance, such as titanium dioxide, used to deluster or color fibers, yarns, or fabrics" .

Note: Pigments, similar to those used in paints, are used to add color to materials; however, they are not considered dyes. Pigments are commonly used for solution dyeing. They are also used for fabric and product dyeing in a process called mass pigmentation. Note: Technically mass pigmentation is not considered dyeing as resins glue the insoluble pigment particles to the fabric. As with synthetic dyes, pigments are also assigned a CI number.

Front 62

Solution Dyeing

Back 62

also known as dope or spun dyeing, is the process of adding pigments or insoluble dyes to a solution before it is extruded through the spinneret.Only manufactured fibers can be solution dyed.As the color pigments become a part of the fiber, solution dyed materials have excellent colorfastness to light, washing, crocking (rubbing), perspiration, and bleach.Solution dyeing is used for difficult-to-dye fibers such as olefin, and for dyeing fibers for end uses that require excellent colorfastness properties.Solution dyeing is also being used for environmental reasons, as dyeing at this stage eliminates the need for water, energy and disposal of waste water due to wet process dyeing.Dyeing at the solution stage is often more expensive due to the initial set-up cost.In addition, it is difficult to stock the inventory for each color and decisions regarding color have to be made very early in the manufacturing process.More recently, the range of colors/shades offered by different companies has increased. Several solution dyed fibers, including rayon and acetate, are available for apparel and home furnishing.It is difficult to visually differentiate between solution dyed and piece dyed fabrics, especially in end use applications for which solution dyed fabrics are used.

Front 63

Fiber Dyeing

Back 63

Stock dyeing, top dyeing, and tow dyeing are used to dye fibers at various stages of the manufacturing process prior to the fibers being spun into yarns. The names refer to the stage at which the fiber is when it is dyed. All three are included under the broad category of fiber dyeing. Stock dyeing is the dyeing of raw fibers, also called stock, before they are aligned, blended, and spun into yarns.Top dyeing is the dyeing of wool fibers after they have been combed to straighten and remove the short fibers.

Note: Wool fibers that have been combed are known as top.

Top dyeing is preferred for worsted wools as the dye does not have to be wasted on the short fibers that are removed during the combing process.

Tow dyeing is the dyeing of filament fibers before they are cut into short staple fibers. The filament fibers at this stage are known as tow.

Front 64

Yarn Dyeing

Back 64

adds color at the yarn stage. Skein, package, beam, and space dyeing methods are used to dye yarns.

In skein dyeing the yarns are loosely wound into hanks or skeins and then dyed. The yarns have good dye penetration, but the process is slow and comparatively more expensive. Skein dyeing is used primarily for bulk yarns used for knitting.In package dyeing yarns that have been wound on perforated spools are dyed in a pressurized tank. The process is comparatively faster, but the dye uniformity may not be as good as that of skein dyed yarn. In beam dyeing a perforated warp beam is used instead of the spools used in package dyeing.Space dyeing is a yarn dyeing process used to produce yarns with two or more colors that are typically repeated in the same sequence throughout the length of the yarn. Different methods are used for space dyeing.A continuous dye range is typically used for dyeing of large quantities of warp yarns for denim with indigo and/or sulfur dyes. Hundreds of warp yarns are held together in the form of a rope. Several of these move through a continuous dyeing process in which the yarns are scoured, washed, and dried.

Note: Dyeing of warp yarns with indigo dye requires the ability of yarns to be immersed in the reduced indigo solution and exposed to air several times to obtain the desired shade. Sulfur dyes are often used in combination with indigo for darker shades of blue. Yarns can be dyed with sulfur dyes either before or after they are dyed with indigo dye.

Front 65

Fabric Dyeing

Back 65

also known as piece dyeing, is dyeing fabric after it has been constructed. It is economical and the most common method of dyeing solid colored fabrics. The decision regarding color can be made after the fabric has been manufactured. Thus, it is suitable for "quick response" orders that respond to sudden fashion trends. Dye penetration may not be good in thicker fabrics; thus, yarn dyeing is sometimes used to dye thick fabrics in solid colors. Various types of batch and continuous dyeing machines are used for piece dyeing. The selection of the equipment is based on factors such as dye and fabric characteristics, cost, and the intended end use.

Beck dyeing is typically used for dyeing fabrics that do not need high pressure and temperature for dyeing. A reel located at the top of the machine is used to move the fabric. Dyeing occurs while the fabric is in the dyebath.

Jet dyeing is often used for dyeing fabrics that need high pressure and temperature for dyeing. In jet dyeing, the dye liquid and the fabric move through the enclosed unit. Viewing areas are located at different locations. Woven as well as knitted fabrics are dyed in jet dyeing machines. The type of jet dyeing machine is selected based on the fiber content and type of fabric to be dyed.

Jig dyeing is a piece dyeing method in which open-width fabrics are dyed either in an enclosed pressurized environment or open atmospheric conditions. Jig dyeing machines consist of two rollers on either end of the machine and the dye bath at the base. Fabric is dyed by moving the fabric from one roller into the dyebath and then up to the second beam. The process of moving it from one roller, through the dyebath, to the other roller is repeated until the desired color is achieved. Jig dyeing is typically used for woven fabrics.

Beam dyeing is a piece dyeing method in which the fabric is dyed in the open-width form. The fabric is wound on a perforated beam and the dye liquid forced through the holes to dye the fabric. Beam dyeing is suitable for fabrics that require special care as the fabric remains stationary.

Pad dyeing is a piece dyeing method in which the fabric passes through a trough with dye solution with an alkali and then between two heavy rollers that force the dye into the fabric as well as squeeze out extra dye solution. The dye in the fabric is allowed to set prior to rinsing and drying. This method is relatively eco-friendly as it requires less water and energy for dyeing.

Union dyeing is "a method of dyeing a fabric containing two or more types of fibers or yarns to the same shade so as to achieve the appearance of a solid colored fabric" (Source- Dictionary of Fiber and Textile Technology).Fabrics can be dyed using a single or multiple step process.Union dyeing is used to dye solid colored blends and combination fabrics commonly used for apparel and home furnishings.

Cross dyeing is "a method of dyeing blend or combination fabrics to two or more shades by the use of dyes with different affinities for the different fibers" (Source- Dictionary of Fiber and Textile Technology).Cross dyeing is used to achieve fabric appearance for which fiber or yarn dyeing would typically be required.A heather look can be achieved by dyeing blends with dye that has affinity for one fiber.Plaid, check, or striped fabrics can be produced by using yarns of different fiber content.An interesting example is cross dyeing of worsted wool fabric with polyester pin stripes. When dyed, the wool yarns are dyed blue, whereas the polyester yarns remain white.Cross dyed fabrics are suitable for "quick response" products. It is also cost effective as piece dyeing is cheaper than fiber and yarn dyeing.Cross dyed fabrics are typically mistaken for fiber or yarn dyed materials as the fabric is not a solid color, a characteristic considered typical of piece dyed fabrics.Although the cross dyeing definition refers to fabrics, the same concepts also apply to yarn and product/garment dyeing.

Front 66

Product Dyeing

Back 66

Product dyeing, also known as garment dyeing, is dyeing of a garment or product after it has been constructed. This stage of dyeing is suitable when all components are dyed the same shade (including threads). For example, sheer hosiery is knitted, stitched with thread that dyes to the same shade as the material, and then dyed. Product dyeing is used for dyeing apparel as well as items for household and interiors. Hosiery, wool caps, T-shirts, and sweaters are examples of product dyed apparel. Product dyeing is ideal for quick response. Many T-shirts, sweaters, and other types of casual clothing are product dyed for maximum response to fashion's demand for certain popular colors. Thousands of garments are constructed from prepared-for-dye (PFD) fabric, and then dyed to colors that sell best. This process is not commonly used for apparel with many components (lining, zippers, and sewing thread), as each component may dye differently. Examples of exceptions are tinting jeans for a "vintage" look and dyeing of denim jeans made with cationic cotton warp yarns and regular cotton filling yarns. Paddle and rotary drum dyeing machines are typically used for product dyeing. An extractor is typically used to extract excess liquids once the dyeing process is complete.

Front 67

Colorfastness to crocking

Back 67

Crocking is color transfer that occurs when a fabric rubs against another surface. The surface that is rubbed picks up color from the fabric. Fabrics with fair to poor resistance to crocking cause problems as they transfer color to other materials. In some cases the act of rubbing alone is sufficient to result in color transfer. In other cases, a dampened fabric will more readily crock and transfer color to another surface.Solution dyed fabrics have excellent colorfastness to crocking.

Front 68

Colorfastness to frosting

Back 68

Frosting is localized color change in a fabric due to mild or severe abrasive action. It is commonly seen on fabrics made with cotton and other cellulosic fibers. Frosting is often visible on cuffs, collars, and seams of garments and stitched edges of items such as table mats.

Front 69

colorfastness to perspiration

Back 69

Perspiration may cause color change in garments, especially silks. In some cases color change is more prominent when the fabric is repeatedly exposed to perspiration. Color change may be reversed by neutralizing alkaline perspiration stains with a mild acid. Professional cleaning is often required for restoring the fabric color (if possible). Some antiperspirants also affect the color of clothing.

Front 70

colorfastness to cleaning

Back 70

Solution dyed fabrics have excellent colorfastness to laundering. Because dye is added to the solution before the filaments are extruded, the color is part of the fiber.Manufactured fabrics have excellent colorfastness to laundering due to the dye classes used in coloring these synthetic fibers.Direct dyes applied to cotton and other cellulosic fibers without aftertreatments or finishes bleed when the garment is washed. Denim is intentionally made to change color with wear; care labels may warn that products should be washed alone or with similar colors.Dyed silk fabrics may have poor colorfastness to water or dry cleaning solvents, resulting in color change or loss after garments are cleaned. Washable silks are colored with dyes that will not bleed when exposed to water.

Front 71

colorfastness to light

Back 71

Solution dyed fabrics have excellent colorfastness to light. Color is added prior to manufacturing and becomes part of the fiber.

Front 72

Apparel End uses for Dyed products

Back 72

Indigo and sulfur dyes are used to dye the warp yarns for blue and black denim fabrics.

Piece dyeing is used for most solid colors in casual pants and T-shirts.

Solid cotton/polyester blend fabrics are union dyed using disperse and reactive dyes (disperse to dye polyester and reactive to dye cotton).

Product dyeing is routinely used for dyeing sheer hosiery.

Front 73

Interior end uses for Dyed Products

Back 73

Olefin filament yarns, used to manufacture commercial carpets, are produced from solution dyed fibers, since olefin is difficult to dye.Residential carpets produced with nylon and polyester fibers are typically dyed after tufting. Note: Some carpets are solution dyed.

Front 74

Textiles end uses for Dyed products

Back 74

Solution dyed fibers, known for excellent colorfastness to light, are used to manufacture fabrics for several outdoor applications such as outdoor mats, outdoor/indoor carpets, artificial turf, outdoor flags, awnings, and boat covers. SolarMax® fabrics used for flags and boat covers and Sunbrella® fabrics used for awnings and marine applications are examples of fabrics made with solution dyed fibers

Front 75

Care for Dyed Products

Back 75

Fabrics and trim have varying degrees of colorfastness to laundering and dry cleaning.Some dyes lose color when washed and others when dry cleaned.Care label information should be followed for cleaning garments.When laundering, garments should be sorted by care required (per instructions on the label) prior to washing. Garments of like colors are washed together.Colored silk fabrics should be handled carefully when removing stains.Rubbing can cause the silk to chafe; the rubbed area will appear to have a change in shade, the result of a damaged fiber surface.Some garments that bleed when washed must be dry cleaned, even though the fiber content of the fabric may withstand laundering. Bleeding commonly results from poor colorfastness properties of the dye or improper application of dye.Cotton and other cellulosic fibers dyed with fiber reactive dyes may lose strength if a low pH is used during commercial laundering.

Dyes that are sensitive to heat may change shades when ironed. This change is generally temporary, but can sometimes be permanent.