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13 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
define wave
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body of water, a ridge, or swell on the surface
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how to calculate wave speed (c)
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divide the wavelength by the period (L / t)
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primary cause of ocean wave is:
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wind
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define wind fetch:
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distance over the water that the winds blow in the same direction
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where are waves the biggest?
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in Antarctica, because there is less land down there so the fetch can be longer
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describe a plunging breaker
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a wave where the top of it can't keep up with the bottom, and curls over the top. Is found on beaches with a steep slope
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describe a spilling breaker
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a wave where it slows down gradually. Is found on beaches with a gradually-sloping shore
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constructive interference is:
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when waves hit crest-to-crest
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destructive interference is:
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when waves hit crest-to-trough
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the most common wave interference is:
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mixed, when a wave hits a crest to the side.
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Wave refraction is:
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when a wave comes into shore at an angle, the side of the wave closest to shore slows down and the other side turns in to shore, coming in mostly parallel
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wave reflection is:
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when waves bounce back after hitting a hard barrier, causing choppy waters and constructive interference
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describe a rip current
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an undertow where water is trapped in a little pool on beach, forces a hole in the sand back to the ocean, but it is so small that so much water tries to go through at once and creates a strong current.
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