Textiles Theodore Frank Koe Chapter 3

Front 1

BEATING

Back 1

The final step in loom weaving. The batten beats the last weft in the she back against preceding yarns to make a compact cloth.

Front 2

BROCATELLE

Back 2

A jacquard fabric similar to a brocade but with designs standing in high relief

Front 3

BULLION FRINGE

Back 3

A series of cords attached to a woven heading or header and found, among other places, on the bottom of upholstered furniture, covering the space between the bottom frame of the furniture and the floor.

Front 4

COM

Back 4

Fabric that a client has located and paid for. CUSTOMER’S OWN MATERIAL.

Front 5

CORDS

Back 5

Plied and twisted yarns less than 1 inch in diameter. Ropes exceed 1 inch in diameter.

Front 6

DAMASK

Back 6

A broad group of jacquard-woven fabrics introduced to Europe by way of Damascus, hence its name. Damasks are typically woven with large and elaborate floral or geometric patterns, originally in silk; however, damasks are now woven in a variety of natural and manufactured yarns.

Front 7

DENT

Back 7

A wire in a loom reed. The number of dents per inch or in a standard width indicates the warp count of the fabric.

Front 8

DOBBY WEAVES

Back 8

A woven construction produced by a dobby, a mechanical part of a loom that control harnesses to permit the weaving of small, geometric figures.

Front 9

FACE

Back 9

The surface of the fabric that is intended to be seen.

Front 10

FESTOONS

Back 10

Decorative swags of fabric, cord, or rope hung between two points.

Front 11

FINISHED

Back 11

Fabric that has been processed in some way prior to sale. A fabric is said to be “converted” after it is finished.

Front 12

FLOAT

Back 12

The portion of a yarn that rides unbound and over two or more warp or weft yarns.

Front 13

FRIEZE

Back 13

Heavy pile fabric with rows of uncut loops.

Front 14

FRINGE

Back 14

Trimmings of loose threads or cords attached to a woven header or gimp-like structure.

Front 15

GALLOON

Back 15

Wide gimps.

Front 16

GIMP

Back 16

Narrow woven fabric strips used to trim the edge of window treatments or upholstered furniture. Gimps are often used to cover nail heads or to provide a transition from wood to fabric.

Front 17

GROSPOINT

Back 17

An upholstery fabric with uncut loop larger than frieze.

Front 18

GROUND

Back 18

The plain base or background area of a decorative fabric.

Front 19

JACQUARD

Back 19

A system of weaving that permits the production of woven designs of considerable size and intricacy.

Front 20

JOBBER

Back 20

Individuals or firms that purchase fabric from a manufacturer then sell it, in varying lengths, usually at a wholesale price. The fabric, in turn, is then sampled and sold to designers.

Front 21

KNITTING

Back 21

A method of constructing fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or more yarns. Derived from the original Anglo-Saxon word cnyttan, meaning to weave threads by hand.

Front 22

LISERE

Back 22

A jacquard fabric usually manufactured when a second warp beam causes the yarn to float on top, creating the pattern and leaving the yarns loose on the back.

Front 23

PASSEMENTERIE

Back 23

Decorative trim of several categories usually produced in part or totally by hand and used to embellish window and bed treatments or furnishings, including pillows.

Front 24

PICKING

Back 24

The movement of the weft yarns through a shed across the shuttle box.

Front 25

PILE

Back 25

Raised loops, tufts, or other arrangements of yarns that stand away from the surface of the fabric.

Front 26

PLAIN WEAVE

Back 26

A woven structure that repeats on two warp yarns and two weft yarns. The first warp yarn passes over the first weft and under the second weft yarn. The second warp yarn reverses this action.

Front 27

PRINT CLOTH

Back 27

A medium weight, plain weave fabric made of cotton, rayon, or blended yarns.

Front 28

RAPIER LOOM

Back 28

One kind of shuttle less loom using a steel tape (rapier) with a clamp on the end to deliver weft yarns.

Front 29

REED

Back 29

A comb-like device on a loom that spaces the warp ends in the desired order and also pushes succeeding weft yarns against the last weft yarn.

Front 30

REPEAT

Back 30

The complete pattern on a fabric that can be seen over and over again.

Front 31

SATIN WEAVE

Back 31

A woven structure in which the face of the fabric is almost formed completely of warp floats produced in the repeat.

Front 32

SELVAGE

Back 32

The narrow edge of the fabric parallel to the length made with stronger yarns that are packed tightly together to protect the fabric from fraying or coming apart.

Front 33

STRIE

Back 33

A fine line or narrow strip woven into the fabric.

Front 34

TWILL WEAVE

Back 34

A woven structure characterized by a diagonal rib, or twill line, generally running upward from left to right.

Front 35

WATER JET LOOM

Back 35

A high-speed shutleless loom that powers the weft yarns through the shed using forced water. Yarns must be unsized filament or nonabsorbent staple yarns that are not affected by water.