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63 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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glucose is __
starched is __ we can eat __ |
flipped
not flipped starch |
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cotton is ___% cellulose
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94
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cotton processing
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seed > blooms > boll (has 32 seeds)>
gin separates seeds and fibers (lint) |
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lumen
secondary wall primary wall cuticle |
the inner tube, once used for nutrient transport that collapses when mature
surrounds lumen surrounds secondary wall coats entire fiber |
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natural cellulosic fibers
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good absorbency
wrinkle badly flammable no static |
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linters
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short fibers (1/8) on seeds after ginning
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how cotton grows
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nutrients go up center
cellulose laid inside reversing spirals of fibrils when mature inner part collapses |
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convolutions
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ribbonlike twists caused from the reverse spirals in secondary cell wall (called crimp in every other fiber)
impact elastic recovery and elongation |
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cotton crystalinity
orientation degree polymerization fineness |
65-70% c
med-low o 10000 dp 16-20 microns |
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cotton staple length
upland long staple short staple |
predominant in us 7/8-1 1/4
1 5/16 higher quality >3/4 india |
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cotton color
cotton length |
the less the better
the longer the better (24 classes) pima egyptian=longer. stronger, spin easier, smoother,luster,dyes better |
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cotton neps
cotton motes |
knots
undeveloped seeds |
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cotton tenacity
why? |
30% stronger when wet
polymers temp align when wet because of swelling-the water in the lumen untwists the fiber |
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Cotton abrasion
elong/elasticity elasitc recovery modulus shrinks resiliency wash hydro___ rot/bugs |
no pilling but lints
low/low moderate high 16% low you can move the h bonds easy hydrophilic mildews/silverfish |
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what makes cotton high quality
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staple length longer
more convolutions light color smooth luster same size |
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bast fibers
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come from the stem, near outer edge and inner bark
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Flax basics
time period nicknamed the " plant processing compared to cotton |
earliest and oldest 4000 bc egypt
the ultimate plant easier to hand process than cotton |
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flax production
rippling retting scutching hackling |
pull up by root
machine to remove seeds a rotting process to soften pectin(gum that holds fibers together) either in water or dew remove the wood with metal rollers combing 2 remove any woody parts |
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flax structure
length fineness crimp crystallinity orientation degree of polymerization |
polygonal with nodes/ lumen
5-21.5" 12-16 none/luster high c high o >10000dop |
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flax strength
resiliency elastic recovery wrinkles |
3.5 dry6.5 wet
low, limitation very low- no return once stretched more than cotton |
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ramie
crystalline resiliency |
bast
highly crystaline low resiliency most like linen ultra white |
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coir
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seed
from coconuts brown good abrasion resistent door mats |
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pina
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pinapple leaves
sheek lustrous |
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hemp
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bast
linked to marijuana 3-15 ft long soft high luster |
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kapok
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seeds
most buoyant fiber fiberfill, life jackets lightweight hard to spin lumen doesnt collapse |
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jute
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bast
sackcloth of bible stiff short brittle cheap ropes twine etc |
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protien fibers come from
wool is and silk is made of when wet they are t/f they burn easily |
animals
fur secretion amino acids weaker false |
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wool vs silk
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wool is bulkier molecule, more resilient because side groups form temp bonds, has sulfur-bugs, loses 40% strength when wet
silks molecule is compact, loses 15% when wet, no sulfur-no bugs |
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WOOL
define myth buster which is older |
older than flax!
not allergic just sensitive fiber from animals as sheep, angora, cashmere goats, camel, llama, vicuna |
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two types of sheep hair
grade |
kemp/guard-coarse stiff thick
underhair-soft fine curly grade:overall quality |
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suint
uses ___ to make tons of product |
sheep sweat
lanolin |
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fleece
most valuable wool most wool comes from |
kemp and underhair, washed,
merino sheep(no kemp hair) australia |
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sheared wool
pulled wool recycled wool lambs wool virgin wool |
from live sheep
from pelts garnetted <7 mo old never processed |
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bicomponent fiber:
ortho /para medulla epithelial epicuticle |
when 2 spiral around each other
ortho and para cortical spiral in the center of the ortho and para surface sclae microscopic pores let water absorbed/shed |
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natural crimp in wool comes from___
results |
the ortho and para react differently to heat and moisture
fiber spirals, cohesiveness, elasticity, loft |
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the cross linkages in wool leads to....
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helical coiled and spring structure that gives excellent resiliency
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wool made of ....
amino acids are made of... linked amino acids by when cystine linkage gets wet you smell crosslinked r groups make.... |
keratin
among other things sulfur cystine linkage sulfur salt bridges, thus when wool is wet it is weaker because the salt bridges dissolve |
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wool crystallinity
orientation degree of polymerization fibers can/cant pack close together because of ____ groups |
low 30%
low low cant/ r groups |
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wool aesthetics
durability crimp allows for... tenactiy elasticity and elongation wool is HY... appearance retention wash |
loft, matted, fine/bulky
can be folded 20000x stretch, resiliency 1.0 when wet excellent groscopic resist wrinkling dry clean |
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wool is a ___
chlorine is a ___ strong detergents are ___ |
acid
base alkalis not handled well by wool |
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merino
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no kemp/medulla
longer soft $$ |
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angora goat gives
crimp luster compared to wool in tenacity |
mohair
no crimp higher luster stronger |
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qiviut
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rare$$$
underhair only warmer |
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camel hair
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cant be bleached
lightest and warmest |
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cashmere goat
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very soft, hand combed
1lb per goat a year no medulla |
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alpaca and llama
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less scales, less felting
warm waterproof hollow core |
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vicuna
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endangered. most expensive fiber in tehworld
shear only 3 years only animal killed for the fiber |
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silk is the only natural .... fiber
how much from one cacoon |
filament
one mile |
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raw silk is a misnomer
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meaning wild or tussah silk
raw silk still has sericin |
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silk care
t/f silk water spots |
dry clean cause of water soluable salts
true |
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wools protien
silks protein in which are Rgroups longer silks molecular structure while wools molecular structure |
keratin
fibroin wool zigzags coils |
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silk crystallinity
oreintation polymerization what bonds? shape? crimp easier/harder 2dye than cotton/wool |
high 70c
high o med high polymer no salt bridges, or cross links. HBONDS no core, no parts no fibrils triangular none harder to die |
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elastic recovery
elongation resiliency silk does what to your temperature very sensitive UV tenaciyt |
low
low low to mid, less than wool adapts! strongest natural fibers |
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scroop
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the sound silk makes like a rustle
can be acid treated to achieve that sound |
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man made manufactured fibers
synthetic manufactured fibers |
regenerated from natural products
chemically created |
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3 steps for making fibers
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dope liquidspinning solution
extrude thru spinneret solidy |
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4 ways to make fiber
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melt
wet dry solvent |
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melt spinning
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nylon poly ole
cheapest, no solvent extrude into cool air |
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wet spinning
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acrylic lyocell rayon spandex
oldest method, complex material disolved into chemical bath washing necessary |
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dry spinning
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acetate acrylic spandex
dissolve into solvent spin into warm air while solvent evaporates |
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solvent
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lyocell
most recent use the same chemical for the dope as to solidify |
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altering fibers
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shape,
weight controlled stretching |
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bicomponent fiber
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core sheath
sidebyside matrix fibril |
