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66 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
State the construction creed.
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other.
What are the lengthwise yarns called?
Warp yarns
What are the width-wise yarns called?
Filling yarns or picks
What are the lengthwise edges of the fabric called?
Selvages
No yarns, can also be referred to as a type of cloth.
No Element Fabrics.
No yarns present but they do have fibers. They are fabric sheet structures made from fibrous webs bounded by mechanical entanglement of the fibers or by the use of resins.
Non Wovens
Not fibrous, rather an extruded polymer solution. They are waterproof and do not breathe.
Films
One basic element/yarn. Two yarns may be twisted together to form this.
Single Element Fabrics
Majority of fabrics are how many elements?
2 element.
2 yarns are put together in a weaving process in which 1 yarn is the warp and the other is the weft.
Two Element Fabrics
A type of 2 element weave where there are a different number of warp to weft yarns.
Unbalanced. (i.e. 2x1)
Weaves that are created through special loom attachments to create a pattern or design.
Fancy Weaves
Small figured designs which require fewer than 25 different yarn arrangements to complete 1 pattern repeat
Dobby Weave
Designs which required 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete 1 pattern repeat. Many 3 element fabrics are woven on this type of loom.
Jacquard
A type of weave where an extra warp or filler yarn is added. The background fabric can stand on its own even if the extra warp or filler is removed.
Three Element Weave
A type of 3 element weave usually of a floral design with the addition of an extra filler or warp. The floral design is usually an overall pattern. Created on a jacquard loom.
Brocade
A type of weave where the warp and weft form the ground cloth. Either an extra warp or filler form a pile which may be cut or uncut. May be either a weft/filling pile or warp pile.
Pile Weave
A type of weave that has 2 sets of warps and 2 sets of wefts/filler. Feels very thick.
Four element weaves.
The most common type of 4 element- 2 pieces of cloth that are held together by the warp and weft from one textile changing place with the warp and weft in the other textile.
Double Cloth
A plain weave with 2 warp yarns wrapped around a filler.
Leno Weave
Also called a waffle weave, a fabric with ridges called wales or cords that are held up by floats on the back. Characterized by its honeycomb or waffle appearance.
Pique weave
A diagonal look to the weave is the main characteristic. It can be right handed or left handed. The most durable is 2/1. This indicates 2 harnesses are raised while the third is lowered to create the weave design.
Twill
Twill direction is emphasized from lower left to upper right
Right handed twill
Twill direction is emphasied from upper left to lower right
Left handed twill
A type of reverse twill where the twill line reverses at regular intervals, different colors may be used to accentuate the pattern.
Herringbone
A type of reverse twill where the twill variation creates a broken check pattern.
Houndstooth
A type of reverse twill where the twill creates a small diamond pattern; also a pique and dobby weave.
Bird's eye
A type of reverse twill where the twill creates a large diamond pattern
Gooseeye
A type of reverse twill where the twill is warp faced and made of yarn died cotton.
Denim
A type of weave formed when the balance is something other than 1:1 or when the size of one set of yarns is significantly greater than the size of the other set resulting in a raised appearance.
Ribbed Weave
Alternating large and small ribs that are adjacent to each other, created by using a filling/weft yarns of a different size or number.
Ottoman
A type of rib weave where the faille fabric has a water-marked appearance.
Moire
This is located on the back of the loom. It is a large roller on which all the warp yarns to be used for the cloth are wound parallel to each other.
Warp Beam
The warp yarns pass through this, which looks like picture frames holding many thin vertical wires called heddles, each with a hole (eye) in the middle.
Harnesses
The purpose of the harnesses is to raise and lower the warp yarns. The number of harnesses vary from 2 to 30, depending upon the complexity of the weave. The warp yarns are seperated in to an upper group and a lower group, thus creating an opening or....?
shed
The shed is made so that the filling yarn can be passed across the loom. Usually a (blank) is used, which is a boat-like device that carries the filling yarn on a stick called a quill or bobbin.
shuttle
The shuttle on the loom stays in a box located at the end of the shed. When a (blank) becomes empty, it is automatically replaced by a full one.
bobbin
The warp yarns, after passing through the harnesses, pass through the reed. The reed resembles a comb and pushes the loose pick in the shed up to the edge of the already made cloth and returns to a position near the harnesses. This is called...?
Beating Up
The cloth on the loom is slowly wound onto the (blank), located in the front of the loom.
Cloth Roll
Before the shuttle returns across the loom, some of the harnesses change position, either being raised or lowered. The sequence in which the harnesses are raised and lowered determines the (blank) that is made in the fabric.
Weave (Pattern)
The harness movement also prevents the last filling yarn from being pulled out when the shuttle next goes across the loom, since the filling yarn wraps around the last warp yarn on the fabric edge. This creates a...
selvage
Name the 6 chief motions of the loom?
Shedding motion, picking motion, beating-up, take-up motion, let-off motion, filling pattern motion
One of the 6 chief motions of the loom, a negative/frictional movement where the thread is allowed to leave the warp beam according to the beating up of the cloth by the lay of the loom.
Let-off motion (Warp Beam)
One of the 6 chief motions of the loom, a positive motion where the sand roller moves a fractional part of an inch in relation to the (blank) wheel. The motion is semi-positive when the sand roller is not precisely controlled.
Take-up motion (Cloth Roll)
One of the 6 chief motions, this movement is not found on single shutter looms, but used on machines where more than 1 color is desired.
Filling Pattern Motion (Pattern or Weave)
One of the 6 chief motions, the seperating of the warp ends in to an upper and lower layer of threads to permit the shuttle to pass through the space that has then been formed. The warp ends are drawn through heddle eyes in the correct manner and in the turning-over of the crankshaft of the loom, a shed is formed with each turn.
Shedding Motion
One of the 6 chief motions of the loom where the actual beating in to place of the loose pick that was placed in the shed of the warp by the picking motion.
Beating Up Motion
One of the 6 chief motions of the loom; the actual passing of the shuttle through the shed of the loom. The shuttle passes over the lowered ends of the shed and under its raised ends. The shed allows the shuttle to pass through it and thereby make it possible for the shuttle to deposit the pick or filling yarn.
Picking motion
The simplest and most used weave. It is found in a wide range of fabrics, from the sheerest to the heaviest. Fabrics with this type of weave are reversible unless 1 side is made the face by a finishing or printing process.
Plain Weave ( think simple checkerboard)
A type of plain weave variation; this weave is made by having 2 groups of 2 or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn.
Basket Weave (Think large checkerboard)
This weave produces diagonal lines on the cloth.
Twill Weave
Although twill lines often run in one direction, sometimes a fabric combines right handed twill and left handed twills. This is called what?
Broken twill weave (Chevron, Herringbone, etc)
Type of weave where 1 interlacing for each warp yarn, and only 1 interlacing for each filling yarn in each repeat of the weave.
Satin Weaves
A durable cotton fabric usually with a filling-face satin weave. Not as lustrous as satin fabric because spun yarns are used to it. Also heavier than satin.
Sateen fabric
Warp yarns twist back and forth in pairs around each pick, firmly holding the filling yarn in the figure 8 loops formed.
Leno Weave
Equal number of weft and warp yarns.
Balanced Plain Weave
Name the 3 main types of weave.
Twill, Plain, Satin
When one set of yarns floats over the other set at regular intervals. Most common is 4 over under 1.
Satin weaves
Type of satin weave made of bright filament yarns with very low twist, one of the most lustrous fabrics. Often has the floats in the warp direction.
Satin
Type of satin weave where there is a combo of warp and filling sateens together, these alternate directions to create the pattern. Have a two tone effect that reverses on the back side. The variation is in the reverse of the satin floats, not the yarn colors.
Damask
Type of satin weave where the lustrous fabric made of spun yarns with a medium twist. Often has floats in the filling/weft direction.
Sateen
Lengthwise edge of fabric?
Selvedge
Warp yarns run parallel or perpendicular to selvedge yarns
?
Parallel
This weave is a material with a raised hair-like or fur-like surface. Two well-known fabrics with such a surface are velvet and terrycloth.
Woven pile fabrics
A (blank) is a fibrous surface produced by brushing up fibers on the cloth during a textile finishing process. Extra yarns are not used to produce the surface effect.
Nap
A (blank) is actually 2 fabrics held together by a seperate set of yarns. Each fabric is made using 1 set of warp yarns and 1 set of filling yarns (a total of 2 warp and 2 filling sets) with a 3rd set of warp yarns moving back and forth between the 2 layers of fabrics that hold them together.
Double Cloth