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65 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
knitting and weaving are
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most common methods of fabric formation
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major differences between knitting and weaving
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-knitting is 4x faster than weaving
-knits made on wider machines -knitting requires more yarns -knits are stretchy & elastic -knits are porous and resilient |
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Wales
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vertical columns of loops produced by adjacent needles
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Courses
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horizontal row of loops produced by same needles on successive knitting cycles
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Gauge
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needles per 1/2 inch
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wales =
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warp
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Courses =
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Filling
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Gauge =
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Count
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Count
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yarns per sq. inch
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knitting
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process where a continous yarn or set of yarn is formed into a series of interlocking loops
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# of wales determins
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fabric width
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# of courses determines
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fabric length
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Gauge determines
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elasiticity
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Higher gauge =
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finer, more compact structure
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Advantage of knits
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-Comfort
-Less wrinkles |
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Disadvantage of knits
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-Snagging
-Sagging -Bagging |
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Good characteristics of knitted fabrics
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-Elasticity
-Comfort -Resiliency -Absorbency *governed by type of fibers used |
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2 Methods of Knitting
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-Filling Knitting
-Warp Knitting |
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Filling Knitting
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- 1 supply yarn
- needles move individually - needles move up and down - loops drawn through row below -More stretch, shaped easily |
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Warp Knitting
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- seperate yarns for all needles
- needles move together - needles move side to side - loops drawn around adjacent yarns |
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major disadvantage of filling knits
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- running
- ladder |
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Filling knit made of
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one continuous yarn
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2 Methods of forming filling knits
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-sequential loop formation
- simultaneous loop formation |
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Filling knit method forms
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- tubular and flat fabrics
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tubular knit
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knit without seams
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Flat knit
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resembles woven fabrics in 2-D forms
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Flat filling knits
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- fully fashioned (expensive)
- partially fashioned - knitted to length |
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Fashioning
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shaping flat knit fabrics during the knitted process
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Shaping
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transfering loops to decrease the width of fabric in certain areas
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Loop transfer stitch
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used in fashioning
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full-fashioned
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items knitted in shaped parts to fit together
*expensive |
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partially fashioned
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shaped at only one end
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knitted to length
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knitted in the form of panels
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Stitches used in filling knitting
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-knit loop
-tuck stitch -float stitch -purl stitch |
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Knit loop stitch
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smooth on front, wales on back
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tuck stitch
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openings
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float stitch
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floats on back
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purl stitch
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reversible
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3 Categories of Filling Knits
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Single Filling Knit
Double Filling Knit Purl Knit |
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Single Filling Knits
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-Jersey Knit
-Jacquard Single Jersey -Pile Jerseys -Single Interlock Knit |
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Double Filling Knit
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-Rib Knit
-Jacquard Double Knit -Double Interlock Knit |
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Interlock Single Knit
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may run if made of filament yarns
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Double Filling knits made
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with 2 beds of needles
-"V-beds" |
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Gaiting
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arangement of needles of double knitting machines
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3 needle arrangements
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-Rib Gait
-Interlock Gait -Purl Gait |
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Rib knitting
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- produces vertical rows of loops
-1 yarn supply, 2 sets of needles -V's alternate on both sides of fabric |
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Rib knits more
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durable, elastic,
-reversible |
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Jacquard Double Knit
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-double knit fabric with structural design knitted into it
-thicker -yarn-dyed yarns |
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INterlock Double Knit
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-filling knit fabric
- 2 yarn supplies - 2 sets of needles -double rows of loops visible at lower edge |
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Interlock Knitting
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- 2 sets of needles
- 2 yarn sources - alternating knit and purl stitches in vertical and horizontal directions |
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Purl Knitting
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-reversible
-looks like "technical back" of jersey knit -1 yarn source - 2 needle beds -loops on both sides |
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Warp Knits don't
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run and ravel
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Tricot
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-filament
-fine gauge |
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Types of Warp Knits
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-Tricot
-Raschel Knit |
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Raschel Knit
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-spun yarns
-coarse gauge -net, lace, crochet |
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4 Types of Filling knits
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-Pilo Knit
-Purl Knit -Rib Knit -Interlock Knit |
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Sliver knit
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Fake Fur
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Knitting is
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faster than weaving
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Horizontal rows in knitted fabrics are known as
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courses
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filling knits may be knitted as a flat fabric or in a
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tubular form
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The shaping of flat knitted fabric during the knitted process
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Fashioning
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3 Stitches in knitting
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-Knit loop
-Purl Stitch -Float Stitch |
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2 Types of warp knits
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-Raschel
-Tricot |
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main difference between how warp and filling knits are made
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-filling knits made with one continous yarn
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Gauge indicates the number of
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stitches per 1/2 inch
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