Textiles 2 Quiz 2

Front 1

Fabric Structure

Back 1

arrangement of textile components to form a single sheet of material

Front 2

Examples of fabric structures

Back 2

weaves, knits, non-wovens, quilts laminates

Front 3

Multiple componenet Aggregates

Back 3

quilts laminates

Front 4

Weaving

Back 4

the interlacing of yarns at right angles to each other

Front 5

Loom

Back 5

mechanical device used to form a textile structure by weaving

Front 6

4 Requirements for loom operation

Back 6

1)Must hold warp yarn under tension
2)Must hold warp yarn so filling yarn can be inserted
3)Must transport filling yarn across warp yarns
4)Must pack the filling and warp yarns together

Front 7

Fabric Structure Sheets

Back 7

Multiple sheets may be combined

Front 8

Warp Beam

Back 8

Holds warp yarns and governs width of fabric

Front 9

Heddle

Back 9

Warp yarns threaded through eye of heddle

Front 10

Reed

Back 10

Packs filling and warp yarns together

Front 11

Harness

Back 11

controls raising and lowering of heddles

Front 12

Shuttle

Back 12

Transports filling yarns across warp yarns

Front 13

Cloth Beam

Back 13

Holds fabric asit is woven

Front 14

Weaving Steps:

Back 14

Shedding
Picking
Beating
Taking up

Front 15

Shedding

Back 15

raises and lowers harness to make opening in warp yarns called shed

Front 16

Picking

Back 16

transporting of filling yarns across warp yarns through shed

Front 17

Beating

Back 17

process of forcing filling yarns into the warp yarns

Front 18

Taking up

Back 18

process of rolling woven cloth on the cloth beam

Front 19

Shuttle Loom

Back 19

-traditional loom carrier called the shuttle
-produces closed selvage on both sides of fabric

Front 20

Shuttleless Loom

Back 20

- modern
- use projectiles to carry filling yarn across warp
- at least one or both selvages are fringed

Front 21

Advantages of Shuttless Loom

Back 21

-Speed
-Less noise
-Easy to introduce additional yarns into weave

Front 22

Selvage

Back 22

finished lengthwise edges of a woven structure

Front 23

Reinforce Selvages by:

Back 23

Tucking
Twisting in figure eight
Heat Setting

Front 24

Warp Yarns

Back 24

Vertical
-"ends"

Front 25

Filling Yarns

Back 25

Horizontal
- "picks" or "weft"

Front 26

Warp yarns are

Back 26

STRONGER than filling yarns
-less likely to stretch and more likely to shrink

Front 27

Yarn Direction ex:

Back 27

64 x 60
warp filling

Count= TOTAL = 124

Front 28

More Warp =

Back 28

More Strength

Front 29

More Filling =

Back 29

more decorative, compact

Front 30

3 Types of Basic Weave

Back 30

Plain, Twill, Satin

Front 31

Lengthwise Grain

Back 31

-follows warp yarns
-most common
- "straight of grain"

Front 32

Crosswise Grain

Back 32

-follows filling yarns
- cut costs
-gives design or color

Front 33

The Bias

Back 33

does not line up with yarn

Front 34

True Bias

Back 34

-45 degree angle from selvage
-diagonal

Front 35

Off Grain

Back 35

Other directions across cloth that do not follow the direction of a yarn

Front 36

Cloth, Fabric, thread Count

Back 36

number of warp and filling yarns per square inch

Front 37

Higher the cloth count

Back 37

more closely woven the fabric

Front 38

Low Thread Count Fabric Ex:

Back 38

Crinoline
Buckram
Cheese Cloth (Scrim)
Gauze

Front 39

Balance of cloth

Back 39

proportion of warp to filling yarns

Front 40

Good balance=

Back 40

not more than 10 yd. difference in warp and filling directions

Front 41

Usually higher proportion of

Back 41

warp than filling yarns

Front 42

Plain Weave

Back 42

-simplest
-cheapest
-most common
- 1/1 checkerboard effect

Front 43

Plain Weave Fabrics

Back 43

Chiffon
Osnaburg
Muslin
Batiste
Crinoline
Organdy
Percale
Voile

Front 44

Basket Weave

Back 44

-variation of plain
-grouping warp and filling
-balanced or unbalanced

Front 45

Most Common Basket Weave

Back 45

Over 2, Under 2

Front 46

Balanced Basket Weave

Back 46

4 x4

Front 47

Unbalanced Basket Weave

Back 47

2 x 1

Front 48

Basket Weave Fabrics

Back 48

Aida Cloth
Canvas
Oxford Chambray
Monks Cloth

Front 49

Rib Weave

Back 49

-varies SIZES of warp and filling yarn

Front 50

Warp Rib

Back 50

Down

Front 51

Weft or Filling Rib

Back 51

Across

Front 52

Calico or Print Cloth

Back 52

printed back faded, ink doesn't have time to penetrate through
-balanced plain
(usually floral)
(clothes)

Front 53

Satin Lengthwise direction

Back 53

satin

Front 54

Satin Crosswise direction

Back 54

Sateen

Front 55

More Twist =

Back 55

LESS shine

Front 56

Rib weave fabrics

Back 56

Broad Cloth
Ottoman
Bengaline
Taffeta
Poplin
Pincord
Dimity
Faille
Grosgrain Ribbon

Front 57

Variation in plain weave

Back 57

-by color
-"yarn dyes"

Front 58

Varying yarn color fabrics:

Back 58

Madras
Chambray
Gingham
Woven Plaids

Front 59

Varing a Plain Weave by Yarn Type Fabrics:

Back 59

Crepe
Chiffon
Wool Crepe
Tweed
Shantung
Boucle Suiting
Ratine Suiting
Butcher Cloth

Front 60

Ways to vary Plain Weave:

Back 60

-Yarn Type
-Color (application & finish)
-Yarn Tension

Front 61

Burlap

Back 61

-course & heavy
-single jute yarns
-balanced plain

Front 62

Crash

Back 62

-rough
-balanced plain
-uneven yarns
-linene or manuf. fibers

Front 63

Dimity

Back 63

-unbalanced plain
-semi-sheer
-lengthwise rib

Front 64

Crossbar Dimity

Back 64

-made with heavier yarns in warp and filling directions

Front 65

Tweed

Back 65

-balanced plain
-heavy
-novelty yarns

Front 66

Hopsacking

Back 66

-heavy
-plain

Front 67

Muslin

Back 67

-balanced plain
-cotton

Front 68

Percale

Back 68

-balanced plain
-cotton
-finer than muslin
(bed sheets, clothes)

Front 69

Batiste

Back 69

-combed
-balanced plain
-light
(handkerchiefs, nighties)

Front 70

Gingham

Back 70

-combed or carded
-balanced plain
(coats, dresses, children)

Front 71

Chambray

Back 71

-balanced plain
-cotton
(shirts, childrens)

Front 72

Challis

Back 72

-balanced plain
-soft
-staple
(dresses)

Front 73

Seersucker

Back 73

-woven w/slack tension
(sportswear, curtains)

Front 74

Crepe

Back 74

-puckered, grainy
(apparel, furnishings)

Front 75

Crepe (polyester)

Back 75

-plain
-text. filament yarns
(women's apparel)

Front 76

Voile

Back 76

-lightweight
-high twist
-staple
(dresses, blouse)

Front 77

NinonG

Back 77

-open plain
-filament
-3rd warp missing increase transparency
(curtains, draperies, encasements)

Front 78

Georgette

Back 78

-filament
-lightweight
-balanced plain
(apparel)

Front 79

Chiffon

Back 79

-lusterous
-balanced plain
(apparel)

Front 80

Twill weave

Back 80

distinguished by diagonal lines on fabric called WALES

Front 81

twill weaves have

Back 81

floats

Front 82

Float

Back 82

portion of a yarn that lies exposed on the surface of the fabric

Front 83

Wale Direction defines

Back 83

Right-hand or left handed

Front 84

Right-Hand Twill

Back 84

Lower left to upper right
**Most Common

Front 85

left handed

Back 85

lower right to upper left

Front 86

Wale Angle defines:

Back 86

Steep twill or Flatten twill

Front 87

Steep Twill

Back 87

-greater than 45 degrees
(almost vertical)

Front 88

Flatten Twill

Back 88

(Reclining Twill)
-less than 45 degrees
-almost horizontal

Front 89

Kinds of Twill Weaves

Back 89

-Balanced Twill
-Warped Faced Twill
-Filling Faced Twill
-Herringbone Twill
-Wavy Twill

Front 90

Balanced Twill

Back 90

same # of warped and filling yarns showing on surface of fabric

Front 91

Warped Faced Twill

Back 91

predominance of warp yarns on surface

Front 92

Filling Faced Twill

Back 92

predominance of filling yarns on surface

Front 93

Herringbone Twill

Back 93

Twill reverses itself to form broken diagonal

Front 94

Wavy Twill

Back 94

direction of twill changes at intervals

Front 95

Twill Weaves are:

Back 95

-STRONGER & more Durable
-sheds soil
-hard to clean
-high twist
- good resistance to abraison

Front 96

Twill Weave Fabrics:

Back 96

herringbone
houndstooth
Gabardine
Glen Plaid
Denim
Surah
Chino

Front 97

Surah

Back 97

-lusterous
-light
-fine twill lines
-filament
(scarves, ties, blouses)

Front 98

Herringbone

Back 98

- broken balanced twill
-vertical right hand left hand
(chevron pattern resembling fish)

Front 99

Houndstooth Twill

Back 99

-pointed check effect
-2 diff. color yarns
(sportswear, suiting, upholstery)

Front 100

Denim

Back 100

-warp-faced twill
-yarn dyed
-steep line
"white- back)
*Indigo most common
(sportswear)

Front 101

Gabardine

Back 101

-clear-finished
-warp-faced twill
-twice warp than filling
-diagonal lines NOT visible on wrong side of fabric
(suits, sportswear)

Front 102

Serge

Back 102

-clear finished
-diagonal wale
-diagonal lines ARE visible on wrong side of fabric
-worsted wool or wool blends
(suiting)

Front 103

Chino

Back 103

-steep twill
-2 ply combed yarns
(trousers)

Front 104

Glen Plaid

Back 104

-combines houndstooth and other twill patterns
-contrasting colors in warp and fill. directions
(suits)

Front 105

Ticking

Back 105

-warp-faced twill weave
-uneven colored stripe woven in it
(mattress covers, upholstery fabrics)

Front 106

Calvary Twill

Back 106

-smooth surfaced
-Staple
-steep twill
-double twill line with small space in between each line
(apparel)

Front 107

Whipcord

Back 107

-steep
-raised twill wale line
(upholstery)

Front 108

Satin Weave

Back 108

-long floats on sruface of fabric
-yarns interlaced at IRREGULAR pattern to avoid diagonal effect

Front 109

long yarn floats

Back 109

add luster to satin weave fabrics

Front 110

When floats run in warp direction

Back 110

filament fabric is called satin

Front 111

When floats run in filling direction

Back 111

the staple fabric is called sateen

Front 112

Satin usually composed of

Back 112

filament yarns

Front 113

Sateen usually composed of

Back 113

combed staple yarns

Front 114

Satin weaves have lowest # of

Back 114

interlacings per unit area

Front 115

Satin Weaves good for

Back 115

ligning, but may wear out early due to exposed long float abrasion

Front 116

Satin Weave Fabrics

Back 116

Bridal Satin
Antique Satin
Crepe-Back Satin
Sateen
Milium
Satin

Front 117

Satin

Back 117

-smooth
-lusterous
-warp-faced

Front 118

Antique Satin

Back 118

-warped-faced
-simple warp, complex slub, uneven filling yarns
-more body than shantung
(draperies)

Front 119

Crepe-Back Satin

Back 119

-reversible satin
(dresses)

Front 120

Charmeuse

Back 120

-smooth & lusterous
-filament
-warped-faced
(evening dresses, lingere)

Front 121

Sateen

Back 121

-combed cotton
-filling or warped faced
-lusterous face
(dresses, bedspreads)

Front 122

Milium

Back 122

-filling or warped face
-lusterous
-aluminum bonding on back
-heat retention
(winter coats, cold climates)