Skin Care Products: Chemistry , Ingredients, And Selection

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FDA Registration for cosmetics ( cosmetics)

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which include make up and skin care products

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Two most important law pertaining to cosmetic on the marketed ? ( The federal food, drugs, and cosmetic Act FD&C Act)

[ The fair packaging, and labeling Act FPLA]

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How does the law define a cosmetic?

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" articles intended to be rubbed , poured, sprinkle and sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human.

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How does the law define a drug?

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" articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease " and " articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any functions of the body of man or other animals

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Cleanser

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Is cosmetics because it's intended use is to cleanse the skin.

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Benzoyl peroxide is a drug because it's intended use is to treat acne

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Moisturizer

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Products formulated to add moisture to the skin

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Acai

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Berry rich In Antioxidants, vitamins a,b,c , and e protects , replenishes, helps heal damaged skin

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Alcohol

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Antiseptic and solvent used in perfume , lotions , and astringent, specially denatured (SD) alcohol is mixture of ethanol with a denatured agent

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Algae

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Seaweed derivatives used as thickening agents , water - binding agents , and Antioxidants, also nourishes the skin with vitamins and minerals

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Alginate

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Often seaweed based mask applied after a serum or treatment cream. Theh come in powder form and are mixed with water or serums, and dry to form a rubberized texture

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Allantoin

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Derived from the root of the comfrey plant , helps to soften and protect while actively soothing skin

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Aloe vera

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Popular botanical used in cosmetic formulation , emollient and humectant with hydrating, softening , healing, antimicrobial, and anti, inflammatory properties

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Alpha lipoic acid

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A natural molecule found in every cell in the body , it is a powerful Antioxidant and is soluble in the water and oil

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Ampoules

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Small , sealed vial containing a single application of highly concentrated serum of extracts in a water or oil base

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Anhydrous

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Describes products that do not contain any water

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Argan oil

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Derived from the kernels of the argan trees, very ligh6 botanical oil used as an emollient

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Aromatherapy

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Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes, involves the highly concentrated, nonoily, volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service

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Astringents

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Also called toners, these liquids help remove excess oil on the skin

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Azulene

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Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color , has Anti- inflammatory and soothing properties

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Benzoyl peroxide

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Ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used to treat inflamed acne lesions

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Beta- glucans

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Ingredients used in anti- againg cosmetic to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collegen

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Beta hydroxy acid

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Abbreviated BHAS, exfoliating organic acid, salicylic acid, milder than alpha hydroxy acids ( AHAS) , BHAS, dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin

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Botanical

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Ingredients derived from plants

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Calendula

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Anti- inflammatory plant extract

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Carbomers

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Ingredients used to thicken creams frequently used in gel products

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Certified colors

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Inorganic color agent also known as metal salts , listed on ingredient labels as D&C ( drug and cosmetic)

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Chamomile

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Plant extract with calming and soothing properties

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Chelating agents

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A chemical added to cosmetic to improve the efficiency of the preservative

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Chemical exfoliants

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Products with chemicals agents used to dissolve dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix , or "glue" , that holds them together ( desmosomes)

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Clay Mask

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Oil - absorbing purifying masks made with a clay base ( such as kaolin or bentonite) that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten

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Cleaner

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Soap or detergent that cleans the skin

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Coconut oil

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Derived from coconut, one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient

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Coenzyme q10

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Powerful Antioxidants that protects and revitalizes skin cells

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Color agent

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Substance such as vegetables, pigment, or minerals dyes that give products color

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Cosmeceutical

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Term used to describe high - quality products or ingredients intended to improve the skin health and appearance

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Cruelty - free

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Term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process, nor are any of its ingredients tested on animals

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Delivery system

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System that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis

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Detergent

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Type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin - cleansing products

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Echinacea

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Derivative of the purple coneflower, prevents infection and has healing properties used internally to support the immune system

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Emollient

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Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate , moisturize,, and prevent water lose

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Emulsifiers

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Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion, an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend

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Enzymes ( for exfoliation)

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Provides gentle exfoliation and dissolves keratin proteins within dead sea skin cells on the surface

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Essential oils

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Oils derived from herbs , have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche

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Exfoliants

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Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin

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Exfoliation

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Peeling or sloughing of the outer layers of skin

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Fatty acids

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Emollients , lubricant ingredients derived from plant s oils or animals fats

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Fatty alcohol

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Amollients , fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen

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Fatty esters

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Emollient products from fatty acids and alcohols

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Fragrance- free

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This term indicates ithat no additional ingredients have been added to a product to specifically provide a fragrance, however, it may already contain ingredients that have a scent

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Freshener

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Toners, skin freshening lotionn, and liquids applied after cleansing to. Soothe and hydrate

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Functional ingredients

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Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture , and give them a specific form as a lotion, cream , or gel, preservatives are also functional Ingredients

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Glycerin

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Formed by decomposition of oils or fats, excellent skin softener and humectant, very strong water , blinder, sweet , colorless , oily substance used as a seventh and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams

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Glycoproteins

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Skin - condition agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhances cellular Metabolism and wound healing

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Gommage

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Also known as roll - off- mask, enzyme exfoliating mask that are rubbed off the skin

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Green tea

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Powerful Antioxidants and soothing agent, antibacterial, inflammatory, kin brightening, and a stimulant

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Healing botanical

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Substances from plants such as chamomile, aloe , plants stem cells, and botanical oils that help to heal the skin

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Help seed oil

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Derived from hemp seeds, very light botanical oil used as an emollient

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Humectant

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Ingress that attract water , humectant draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface , diminishing lines cause to the skin surface

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Hypoallergenic

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Refers to ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions

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Jojoba

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Oil widely used in cosmetic, extract from the bean- like seeds of a dessert shrub, used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer

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Keratolytic

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Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing of skin cells

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Kojic acid

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Skin - brightening agent

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Lakes

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Insoluble pigment made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

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Lanolin

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Emollient with moisturizer properties, also, an emulsifier with high water - absorption capabilities

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Lavender

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Antiallergenic , anti- inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing , soothing ,and healing

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Licorice

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Anti- irritant used for sensitive skin , helps lighten pigmentation

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Lipids

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Fats or fat - like substances, lipids help repair and protect the barrier functions of the skin

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Liquid paraffin

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Emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources

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Lubricant

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Coats the skin and reduces friction, minerals oil is a lubricant

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Mask

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Also known as pack or masque , concentrated treatment product often composed or herbs, vitamins, minerals clays, moisturizing agent , skin softener , aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse , exfoliate , tighten, tone ,hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin

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Mechanical exfoliants

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Products used as a physical method of Polishing dead cells off the skin

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Methylparaben

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One of the most frequently used preservation because of its very low sensitivity potential, combats bacteria and molds , noncomedogenic

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Mineral oil

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Lubricant derived from petroleum

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Modelage masks

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Also known as thermal masks or thermal masks or thermal heat masks, facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster - like ingredients

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Non certified colors

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Colors that are organic l, meaning they come from animal or plant extract, they can also be natural sources

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Olfactory nerve

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Smell Receptors In the nose that communicates with communicates with parts of the brain that serve as that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories

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Organic

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Term used to describe natural sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals

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Palm oil

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Derived From the oil Palm tree One of the fattest and heaviest oils inhavious oils used as am emollient

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Papaya

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Natural enzyme used to exfoliation and an enzyme peel

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Parabens

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One of the most commonly used groups of of preservatives in the cosmetic, Pharmaceutical, and food industries, provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against diverse organisms

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Paraffin wax mask

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Mask use to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trap under the service of the paraffin

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Peptides

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Change of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, Cell metabolism, collagen, Improve skin firmness. Larger chains are cold Polypeptides

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Performance ingredients

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Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changis the actual changes in the appearance of the skin

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Petrolatum

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Emollient ingredients derived from petroleum sources

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Ph adjusters

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Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the ph of products

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Phthalates

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plastictersuad in akin care formulls to moistures and soften ten,and to dena,or blend ingredients

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Plant stem cells

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derved from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells, heath anganti-aging benefits

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Polyglicans

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Ingredients derved from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate metabolism, hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen andelastin

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Polymers

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chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules(monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that releasesubstances onto the skin's surface at a microscopically controlled rate

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Preservatives

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chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microniganisms in cosmetic formuse,they kill bactena and prevent products from spoiling

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Quaternium 15

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all- purpose preservative active against bactenia, mold, and yeast. Probably,the groatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may causedermatitis and allergies

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Retinol

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natural form of vitamin A stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by,generating new cells

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Salicylic acid

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beta hydrony acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources indussweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen

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Seaweed

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seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties, known for its humectant and moisturizing properties. Vitamins content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness

properties, known for its humectant and moisturizing properties. Vitamins content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness

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Serums

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Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

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Sodium bicarbonate

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Baking soda, alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent , neutralizer , and ph adjuster

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Squalane

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Derived from olives , desensitizes and nourish, an, emollient

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Sulfur

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reduces the activity of oil glands and dissolves the skin's surface layer of dry, deadcells; commonly used in acne products

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Sun protection factor

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abbreviated SPF, indicates the ability of a product to delay sun-induced enthem,the visible sign of sun damage; the SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, no:UVA exposure

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Tea tree oil

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Soothing and antiseptic, antifungal properties

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Titanium dioxide

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An organic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation

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Urea

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properties include enhancing the penetrative abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin's surface andhelps maintain healthy skin

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Vehicles

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Spreading agents and ingredients to carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

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Water soluble

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Mixable with water

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Witch hazel

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Extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub, can be soothing agent or, in higher concentration, as astringent

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Zinc oxide

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Mineral physical sunscreen ingredients that reflects UVA and UVB rays , also used to protect , soothe, and heal the skin, is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antimicrobial

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Antiseptic

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relating to or denoting substances that prevent the growth of disease-causing microorganisms.

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Antimicrobial

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substance that kills microorganisms such as bacteria or mold, or stops them from growing and causing disease.

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Antioxidants

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a substance that inhibits oxidation, especially one used to counteract the deterioration of stored food products.

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Ginseng

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Nourishes, boost collagen, brightens,promotes healthy cell regeneration, heals , anti- inflammatory, balances oil production

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Lactobacillus ferment

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Prebiotic, balances and retains healthy bacteria on the skin while combatting harmful bacteria, strengthen barrier functions, promotes a healthy immune system, decrease sensitivity, anti- inflammatory, increase hydration

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Dry, dehydration, combination, oily, acne/ problematic, sensitive/ reaction, hyperpigmentation,mature/aging

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comedogenicity

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tendency of any substance to trigger the rise of blackheads

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What is NOT true of tissue respiratory factor (TRF)?

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it is a natural antibiotic

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What is mineral oil?

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lubricant derived from petroleum

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mucopolysaccharides

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carbohydrate-lipid complexes

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cosmeceuticals

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a cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties, especially anti-aging ones.

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humectant

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attract water draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface diminishing lines.