Schusterguide - Ch10 - Coastal Geography And Waters

Front 1

zone between high water mark and the lowest line where land has been exposed

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shore

Front 2

shore zone beyond breakers

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offshore

Front 3

shore zone between low tide mark and breaker line

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nearshore

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shore zone between high and low tide

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foreshore [intertidal zone]

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division of shore only touched by water during storms or abnormally high water

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backshore

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boundary between water and land

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shoreline

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line where the farthest breakers touch bottom

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breaker line

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area that extends from high shore boundary to any land still affected by marine processes

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coast

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boundary between coast and shore

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coastline

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entire active area of sediments affected by breakers

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beach

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coast with bands of differing rock types running parallel to coast

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concordant coast

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coast with bands of differing rock types running perpendicular to coast

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discordant coast

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global change in sea level caused by a change in the volume of water present in the ocean or the ocean’s capacity

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eustatic change

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change in sea level relative to land caused by a tectonic activity in the continental crust that raises or lowers it

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isostatic change

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beach with a thin berm, gently-sloped beach face, and well-defined longshore bar

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wintertime beach

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beach with wide berm, steep beach face, and no longshore bar

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summertime beach

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does swash soak into the sand more in high or low wave activity

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low wave activity

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a piece of land extending from the shore surrounded by water on three sides

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headland

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does a headland form on a concordant or discordant coast

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discordant coast

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caves dug in the side of headlands due to concentrated wave energy

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sea caves

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form when caves are drilled all the way through a headland and openings are made on both sides

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sea arch

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vertical, tall, slender rocks formed by erosion of sea arches

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sea stack

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a short sea stack

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sea stump

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large headland

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peninsula

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headland disruptive to a current

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cape

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long, narrow, and high headland

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promontory

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body of water with land on three sides and reduced wave energy due to refraction

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bay

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beach formed between two headlands that doesn't experience longshore drift

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pocket beach

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a large bay

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gulf

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a shallow bay

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bight

Front 31

the movement of water parallel to the beach due to swash flowing onto the beach at an angle

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longshore current

Front 32

the transport of sediments parallel to the shore in the surf zone; in what direction does this transport occur along most US coasts

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longshore drift; south

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the water from breaking waves that travels up the beach parallel to wave motion

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swash

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the water that travels directly down the beach slope due to gravity

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backwash

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laminar movement of water away from the beach along the bottom starting as backwash

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sheet flow

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strong pull of water along the bottom away from shore due to backwash

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undertow

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beach with waves that arrive perpendicular to shore and don’t transport sediment

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swash-aligned beach

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beach with waves that arrive at an angle and transport sediment parallel to shore

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drift-aligned beach

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strong, thin currents perpendicular to the shore caused by the concentrated diversion of longshore currents at certain spots on the shore

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rip current

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coast formed by non-marine processes

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primary coast

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coast formed by marine processes

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secondary coast

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which is generally older: primary or secondary coast

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secondary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: volcanic coast

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primary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: wave erosion coast

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secondary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: tectonically-formed coast

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primary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: sandy beach

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secondary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: alluvial plain or delta

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primary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: mangrove coast

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secondary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: salt marsh coast

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secondary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: coast with sediment from land

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primary coast

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is this an example of a primary or secondary coast: coast eroded by mostly land processes

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primary coast

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deposits of large rocks left on a beach because they are too heavy to be transported by the water

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lag deposits

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a beach with lag deposits that prevent further erosion

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armored beach

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accumulation of sediment

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accretion

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linear ridge of sand attached at one end to land formed by longshore drift

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spit

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ridge of sand formed by longshore drift that completely encloses a bay

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bay barrier

Front 57

ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or an island to another island

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tombolo

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what wave phenomenon is responsible for the diversion of wave energy toward headlands and away from the bay

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refraction

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long offshore deposits of sand that come above the water's surface and lie parallel to the coast

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barrier islands

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hills of sand on the shore formed by wind blowing dry sands and stabilized by grasses

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dunes

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flat area landward of the dunes on a barrier island

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barrier flat

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water separating a barrier island from the mainland

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lagoon

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small, low, sandy island formed on or around a coral reef in tropical regions

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key/cay

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deposit of sediment from a glacier that once reached the edge of the continent, then left sediment after it melted

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moraine

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flat, fertile area of sediment deposited by a river at its mouth

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delta

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small branching channel of water that distributes sediment onto a delta

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distributary

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how much has sea level risen since the last ice age

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120 m

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coasts of this type have visible features that were previously underwater

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emergent coast

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are the following emergent or submergent coasts: US Pacific coast; US Atlantic coast

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emergent; submergent

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rise of land after ice melts off of it because there is less weight holding the land down

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glacial rebound

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series of adjacent beach berms, platforms, or benches on a beach caused by the relative sea level changing

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marine terraces

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feature that forms after a cliff collapses over a wave-cut notch

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wave-cut bench

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deposit of sediment well above sea level

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stranded beach deposit

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coasts that were once high up, but are now closer to sea level or below sea level due to a relative rise in sea level

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submergent coast

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an area underwater that was once a beach

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relict beach

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raised section of gently-sloping sand just above the shoreline formed by deposition from waves

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berm

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a slight ridge running parallel to the shoreline that marks the edge of a berm

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berm crest

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slope leading from berm crest down to the ocean or to another berm

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beach face

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steep-sloped bank on the beach at the high tide water level where wave action erodes sand

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scarp

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depression separating a sand bar from the beach face

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trough

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slightly raised embankment formed below water where waves first start to break

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longshore bar [sand bar]

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high point of where materials are deposited by waves on a beach

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drift line

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sorted deposits of different-sized sediment along the shore in arcs

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beach cusps

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does a steep-sloped beach have coarse or fine sediment

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coarse

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narrowing of beach due to erosion and disruption by man-made structures

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beach starvation

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addition of sand to a beach to replace lost sediment

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beach replenishment/nourishment

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where is pink sand found; what is it made of

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Bahamas; foraminiferan tests

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what rock is black sand made of; where is it found

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basalt; volcanoes

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most common mineral that sand is made of

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quartz (SiO2)

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longest unbroken beach

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Ninety Mile Beach, Australia

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large local geostrophic current on the US Pacific coast

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Davidson current

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current near the shore that is formed by the deflection of runoff by the Coriolis effect

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local geostrophic current

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hypersaline lagoon off the coast of Texas

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Laguna Madre

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semi-enclosed coastal body of water in which the ocean water is diluted by freshwater from a river or runoff

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estuary

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type of water in an estuary that is sometimes brown and has a salinity around 17 ppt

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brackish water

Front 96

4 types of estuary based on how they formed

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tectonic, coastal plain, fjord, bar-built

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estuary formed by ocean invading a river valley

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coastal plain estuary [ria]

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largest estuary in the US

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Chesapeake Bay

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U-shaped, steep-walled valley formed by glacial erosion that is filled with water

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fjord

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shallow estuary in a lagoon separated from the open ocean by a barrier island or other structure

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bar-built estuary

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estuary produced by faulting or folding of lithosphere

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tectonic estuary

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which type of estuary are each of the following: Pamlico Sound; San Francisco Bay; Chesapeake Bay; Puget Sound

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bar-built; tectonic; coastal plain; fjord

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example of a salt wedge estuary

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Mississippi River estuary

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vertically isohaline, shallow, low-volume estuary with uniform salinity from top to bottom

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vertically mixed [well mixed] estuary

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moderately shallow estuary containing two layers of water with different salinities that mix a little

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slightly stratified estuary

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deep estuary in which the lower layer maintains a relatively constant ocean salinity from mouth to head, relatively undiluted by river input

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highly stratified estuary

Front 107

estuary that forms near deep, large-volume rivers where ocean water intrudes below the river water

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salt wedge estuary

Front 108

process of freshwater getting more salty as it mixes with ocean water

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entrainment

Front 109

net flow in stratified estuaries of low-salinity surface water toward ocean and high-salinity subsurface water toward shore

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estuarine circulation pattern

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underwater ridge of sediment in a fjord that partially blocks water flow in the estuary

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sill

Front 111

large bodies of water connected to the ocean

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marginal seas

Front 112

how long ago did the Mediterranean Sea dry up

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6 million years ago

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what connects the Mediterranean Sea to: the Atlantic Ocean; Black Sea; Red Sea

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Strait of Gibraltar; Bosporus Strait; Suez Canal

Front 114

2 sections of the Mediterranean Sea divided by circulation

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Adriatic Sea, Aegean Sea

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marginal sea beside the Antarctic continent

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Weddell Sea

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marginal sea with anoxic water below 200 m due to a lack of mixing

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Black Sea

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small discs of ice

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pancake ice

Front 118

free-drifting sheets of ice on the open sea

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ice floes [pack ice]

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ice attached to the coast

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fast ice

Front 120

thick fast ice extending from continental glaciers in the Antarctic

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ice shelf

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largest ice shelf; ice shelf that disintegrated earlier this century

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Ross ice shelf; Larsen B ice shelf

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pieces of continental glaciers that have broken off into the water

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icebergs

Front 123

process of an iceberg breaking off of a glacier

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calving

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Soviet cruise ship that hit an iceberg in 1989, but nobody died

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Maxim Gorky

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tall, thin iceberg; large, flat iceberg

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castle iceberg; tabular iceberg

Front 126

what is the Arctic ice cover in the: winter; summer

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6 million square miles; 3 million square miles

Front 127

pools of water formed on ice sheets due to melting

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polynyas

Front 128

color of ice with trapped air bubbles; color of dense, pure ice

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white; blue

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what percentage of fish are caught within 200 miles of shore

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95%

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collective region including a river, beach, and submarine canyon

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beach compartment

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international meeting first held in Geneva, Switzerland where marine law is made

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United Nations Conference on the Law of the Sea

Front 132

what are the most controversial marine policies

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mineral mining rights

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12 mile wide zone around a country

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territorial sea

Front 134

200 nautical mile wide zone around a country where the country has jurisdiction over marine resource use

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exclusive economic zone [EEZ]

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what percentage of the oceans are controlled by individual nations

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42%

Front 136

river with the largest volume flow rate in the world

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Amazon River

Front 137

Netherlands’ series of engineering projects built to protect the country from sea flooding

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Deltaworks

Front 138

the movement of large masses of sand onto the beach by humans in order to counteract erosion

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dredging [beach nourishment]

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barrier constructed to protect a harbor entrance

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jetty

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a barrier or structure constructed near shore to decrease energy of oncoming waves

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breakwater

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2 examples of breakwaters

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tethered-float breakwater, rip-rap

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rocks or concrete blocks used to armor and protect the shore from erosion by absorbing the energy of wave impacts

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rip-rap

Front 143

barriers perpendicular to the beach that are spaced in intervals with the goal of reducing local sediment loss by longshore drift

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groins

Front 144

barrier built parallel to shore to protect beachfront properties which actually results in more erosion seaward of the barrier

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seawall