Schusterguide - Ch08 - Waves

Front 1

distance from trough to trough, or the length of one wave cycle

Back 1

wavelength (L)

Front 2

time it takes a full wave cycle to pass a given point; equation based on frequency

Back 2

period (T) = 1/f

Front 3

vertical distance from trough to crest; equation based on amplitude

Back 3

height (H) = 2A

Front 4

maximum wave height from static sea level; equation based on height

Back 4

amplitude (A) = H/2

Front 5

number of waves that pass a point in a given time; equation based on period; units

Back 5

frequency (f) = 1/T ; Hertz

Front 6

equation for wave steepness based on height and wavelength

Back 6

steepness = H/L

Front 7

what is the minimum wave steepness required for a wave to break

Back 7

1/7

Front 8

top of a wave; bottom of a wave

Back 8

crest; trough

Front 9

the shape of a wave

Back 9

waveform

Front 10

shape of gravity waves with pointed crests and rounded troughs

Back 10

trochoidal

Front 11

wave velocity or speed; equation based on frequency and wavelength

Back 11

celerity (C) = fL

Front 12

force that destroys waves

Back 12

restoring force

Front 13

restoring force for ripple waves; restoring force for large waves

Back 13

surface tension; gravity

Front 14

force that creates a wave

Back 14

disturbing force

Front 15

imaginary level of water if there were no waves present

Back 15

still water level [zero energy level, static sea level]

Front 16

area where wind-generated waves are created

Back 16

sea

Front 17

bending of waves as they approach shallow depths and touch bottom

Back 17

refraction

Front 18

what shore feature experiences accelerated erosion due to wave refraction

Back 18

headland

Front 19

lines perpendicular to wave fronts that show direction of propagation/movement

Back 19

orthogonal lines [wave rays]

Front 20

bending of waves around an obstacle

Back 20

diffraction

Front 21

a wave bounces off a rigid surface at an angle equal to its original angle of incidence

Back 21

reflection

Front 22

angle between a line running perpendicular to a surface and an orthogonal line of an incoming wave

Back 22

angle of incidence

Front 23

area where reflection occurs off of a jetty at Newport Harbor, California and causes constructive interference of waves

Back 23

the Wedge

Front 24

patterns that occur when multiple waves collide or mix

Back 24

interference patterns

Front 25

resultant size and form of waves that have mixed, which is the addition of wave heights

Back 25

superposition

Front 26

interference in phase, where crests meet with crests, troughs with troughs, and the result is a wave with greater extremes (lower troughs, higher crests)

Back 26

constructive interference

Front 27

interference out of phase, where crests meet with troughs and cancel each other out completely

Back 27

destructive interference

Front 28

interference between constructive and destructive

Back 28

mixed interference

Front 29

a wave that "feels bottom" and has a celerity approximately proportional to depth

Back 29

shallow-water wave

Front 30

a wave that has no components touching the sea floor and whose speed depends on its period

Back 30

deep-water wave

Front 31

a wave that "feels bottom" but is intermediate between shallow and deep

Back 31

transitional wave

Front 32

what is the maximum depth of a shallow water wave; minimum depth of a deep-water wave

Back 32

L/20; L/2

Front 33

waves that are releasing energy as they fall apart

Back 33

breakers

Front 34

why does a wave break in shallow water

Back 34

bottom slows due to friction but top continues moving and topples over the front

Front 35

the varied sequence of high and low waves

Back 35

surf beat

Front 36

for which is the surf is rougher, choppier, and more irregular: waves from local winds or distant storms

Back 36

local winds (less sorting has occurred)

Front 37

open ocean breakers

Back 37

whitecaps

Front 38

zone between the shoreline and the farthest breakers

Back 38

surf zone [breaker zone]

Front 39

zone on beach where waves wash up on the land

Back 39

swash zone

Front 40

breaker that breaks quickly and destructively on a steep beach

Back 40

surging breaker

Front 41

breaker with a curling crest that is good for surfing and forms on a moderately-sloped beach

Back 41

plunging breaker [barrel wave, tube wave]

Front 42

breaker that breaks slowly and gently on a gently-sloped beach

Back 42

spilling breaker

Front 43

do the following values increase or decrease as a wave approaches the shore: eccentriciy, height, steepness, celerity, wavelength

Back 43

increase, increase, increase, decrease, decrease

Front 44

water that washes up onto the beach; water that flows back into the ocean from the beach

Back 44

swash; backwash

Front 45

sorting of waves by wavelength due to differing speeds

Back 45

dispersion

Front 46

sorted group of waves that formed in the same area and have similar characteristics, such as period and speed

Back 46

wave train

Front 47

how much faster does a wave in a wave train move than the train itself

Back 47

2x as fast

Front 48

area where waves have reached maximum size for a given wind source

Back 48

fully developed sea

Front 49

the distance over which waves move from a choppy sea to low wind, where they become swells

Back 49

decay distance

Front 50

what wave feature is wave energy proportional to

Back 50

height or amplitude

Front 51

what 3 factors increase a wave's energy

Back 51

fetch, duration, wind speed

Front 52

what 3 wave features does wind increase

Back 52

height, wavelength, celerity

Front 53

type of wave that keeps traveling forward

Back 53

progressive wave

Front 54

type of wave where particles move a circular pattern

Back 54

orbital wave

Front 55

type of wave with particle motion that is parallel to wave propagation

Back 55

longitudinal wave

Front 56

type of wave with particle motion that is perpendicular to wave propagation

Back 56

transverse wave

Front 57

are water waves orbital, transverse, or longitudinal

Back 57

orbital

Front 58

depth at which orbital motion of waves above ceases to exist; how deep is this depth

Back 58

wave base; d = L/2

Front 59

wave in a partially or completely closed body of water that appears only to move up and down

Back 59

standing wave

Front 60

standing wave initiated by strong winds or a seismic disturbance within a partially enclosed basin and strengthened by tides

Back 60

seiche wave

Front 61

frequency required for a standing wave pattern to occur

Back 61

resonance frequency

Front 62

points of no motion on a standing wave; points of maximum vertical motion on a standing wave

Back 62

nodes; antinodes

Front 63

slight net movement of water forward with each wave, resulting in a net transport of mass

Back 63

wave drift

Front 64

small-wavelength (L< 1.74 cm) waves with rounded crests and pointed troughs

Back 64

capillary waves [ripples]

Front 65

waves restored by gravity that have a trochoidal waveform

Back 65

gravity waves

Front 66

long wavelength, low steepness, well-sorted waves that originated in an area with higher wind speeds than the area they are identified in

Back 66

swell

Front 67

a wave pushed by the wind; a wave that moves because it has stored momentum

Back 67

forced wave; free wave

Front 68

abnormally large wave in the context of other waves around it

Back 68

rogue wave

Front 69

rogue waves are common here because large waves from Antarctic storms meet the Antarctic Circumpolar Current

Back 69

Wild Coast (southeast Africa)

Front 70

wave created by a movement of a mass into the water, such as calving icebergs or landslides

Back 70

splash wave

Front 71

place where the largest wave ever recorded occurred due to an enormous rockslide in 1958; how tall

Back 71

Lituya Bay, Alaska; 530 m

Front 72

large waves that exist underwater between water of different densities (at the pycnocline)

Back 72

internal waves

Front 73

shallow-water wave with a long wavelength produced by a large, quick seismic disturbance

Back 73

tsunami

Front 74

3 possible causes of a tsunami

Back 74

volcanic eruption, earthquake, landslide

Front 75

which ocean has the most tsunamis

Back 75

Pacific Ocean

Front 76

NOAA program that warns people of tsunamis using data from a network of buoys

Back 76

Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC)

Front 77

where did the most destructive tsunami on record originate; when

Back 77

near Sumatra, in the Indian Ocean; December, 2004

Front 78

waves behind a boat or ship

Back 78

wake

Front 79

a sign that a tsunami is coming

Back 79

temporary drop in local sea level

Front 80

what does tsunami mean in Japanese

Back 80

harbor wave