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20 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Chemical Texturizing
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The process if using physical and chemical actions to permanently change the texture of hair.
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Alkaline Waves
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Today's highly improved cold waves; formulated with thioglycolic acid and its derivatives and ammonia, which creates a compound called ammonium thioglycolate; pH of approximately 8.0 to 9.5.
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Acid Waves
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A method of Preminger using thioglycolic derivative called glycerol monothioglycolate without ammonia; a more gentle perking method because the chemicals penetrate the hair slowly; to speed the process heat is added by placing a plastic cap on the client's head and placing her under a pre-heated dryer; pH range of 6.9-7.2.
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Endothermic
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Endothermic waves are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
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Exothermic
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Ectothermic perms are self-timing and self-heating; use an additive that creates heat through a chemical reaction mixed with perm solution; range from acid to alkaline.
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Croquignole
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Croquignole wrap is a method of wrapping hair around a perm tool in which the hair is wrapped from the ends up to the scalp.
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Spiral
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Spiral Wrap is a method of wrapping hair around a perm tool base-to-ends and ends-to-base.
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Base Size
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The diameter and length of tool used; base size (width) is measured according to the diameter of the roller, which is the outside measurement across the end of the roller; the area between two partings for an individual perm rod.
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On Base Tool Position
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A one-diameter base is directed 45% above the center of the base and wrapped so the tool sits between two partings; used to create more volume.
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Off Base Tool Position
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The hair is held at 45% below the center of the base while wrapping so that the tool sets completely off its base; used for minimal volume and a curl pattern concentrated on the midstrand and ends.
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Half Off Base Tool Position
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With a one-diameter base size, the rod is positioned half on its base and half off its base, directly on the bottom parting.
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Cold Waves
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Machineless method of perming hair; the hair is wrapped on rods while a waving lotion (thioglycolic acid ur it's derivatives) processes the hair without heat.
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Test Curl
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A test is to determine complete processing if a perm; positive test shows an "S" shape or pattern.
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Neutralizing
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Rebounding or oxidation; final step in the perm process; restores the disulfide bonds; reduces the swelling caused by the alkalinity of the perm solution and hardens the bonds in the new shape.
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Test for Metallic Salts
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X
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Sodium Hydroxide
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Relaxer chemical with a high oil content (the base) and conditioning agents that help protect the hair and scalp from irritation; also know as lye relaxer; pH of 11.5-14.
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Ammonium Thioglycolate
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A chemical reducing agent that causes the hair to soften and swell; also called thio relaxers.
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No Lye
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No-Lye Relaxers contain a derivative of sodium hydroxide; contain calcium, potassium, guanine, lithium hydroxide, or bisulfate ad the active ingredient; usually recommended for less resistant hair and require frequent conditioning follow up treatments.
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Virgin Relaxer
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A chemical relaxer applied to untreated or "virgin" hair to the list resistant area and 1" away from the scalp and up to the porous ends.
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Relaxer Retouch
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Uses the same procedure as a virgin application, except that the product is applied to only the new growth area at the scalp. (1/4 inch away from skin)
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