Salon Fundamental Ch. 12

Front 1

Chemical Texturizing

Back 1

The process if using physical and chemical actions to permanently change the texture of hair.

Front 2

Alkaline Waves

Back 2

Today's highly improved cold waves; formulated with thioglycolic acid and its derivatives and ammonia, which creates a compound called ammonium thioglycolate; pH of approximately 8.0 to 9.5.

Front 3

Acid Waves

Back 3

A method of Preminger using thioglycolic derivative called glycerol monothioglycolate without ammonia; a more gentle perking method because the chemicals penetrate the hair slowly; to speed the process heat is added by placing a plastic cap on the client's head and placing her under a pre-heated dryer; pH range of 6.9-7.2.

Front 4

Endothermic

Back 4

Endothermic waves are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.

Front 5

Exothermic

Back 5

Ectothermic perms are self-timing and self-heating; use an additive that creates heat through a chemical reaction mixed with perm solution; range from acid to alkaline.

Front 6

Croquignole

Back 6

Croquignole wrap is a method of wrapping hair around a perm tool in which the hair is wrapped from the ends up to the scalp.

Front 7

Spiral

Back 7

Spiral Wrap is a method of wrapping hair around a perm tool base-to-ends and ends-to-base.

Front 8

Base Size

Back 8

The diameter and length of tool used; base size (width) is measured according to the diameter of the roller, which is the outside measurement across the end of the roller; the area between two partings for an individual perm rod.

Front 9

On Base Tool Position

Back 9

A one-diameter base is directed 45% above the center of the base and wrapped so the tool sits between two partings; used to create more volume.

Front 10

Off Base Tool Position

Back 10

The hair is held at 45% below the center of the base while wrapping so that the tool sets completely off its base; used for minimal volume and a curl pattern concentrated on the midstrand and ends.

Front 11

Half Off Base Tool Position

Back 11

With a one-diameter base size, the rod is positioned half on its base and half off its base, directly on the bottom parting.

Front 12

Cold Waves

Back 12

Machineless method of perming hair; the hair is wrapped on rods while a waving lotion (thioglycolic acid ur it's derivatives) processes the hair without heat.

Front 13

Test Curl

Back 13

A test is to determine complete processing if a perm; positive test shows an "S" shape or pattern.

Front 14

Neutralizing

Back 14

Rebounding or oxidation; final step in the perm process; restores the disulfide bonds; reduces the swelling caused by the alkalinity of the perm solution and hardens the bonds in the new shape.

Front 15

Test for Metallic Salts

Back 15

X

Front 16

Sodium Hydroxide

Back 16

Relaxer chemical with a high oil content (the base) and conditioning agents that help protect the hair and scalp from irritation; also know as lye relaxer; pH of 11.5-14.

Front 17

Ammonium Thioglycolate

Back 17

A chemical reducing agent that causes the hair to soften and swell; also called thio relaxers.

Front 18

No Lye

Back 18

No-Lye Relaxers contain a derivative of sodium hydroxide; contain calcium, potassium, guanine, lithium hydroxide, or bisulfate ad the active ingredient; usually recommended for less resistant hair and require frequent conditioning follow up treatments.

Front 19

Virgin Relaxer

Back 19

A chemical relaxer applied to untreated or "virgin" hair to the list resistant area and 1" away from the scalp and up to the porous ends.

Front 20

Relaxer Retouch

Back 20

Uses the same procedure as a virgin application, except that the product is applied to only the new growth area at the scalp. (1/4 inch away from skin)