Milady Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services

Front 1

Acid-balance Waves

Back 1

Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves

Front 2

Alkaline Waves

Back 2

Also known as cold wave; have a pH between 9.0-9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat

Front 3

Amino Acids

Back 3

Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur

Front 4

Ammonia-free Waves

Back 4

Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little order associated with their use

Front 5

Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)

Back 5

Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents

Front 6

Base Control

Back 6

Position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

Front 7

Base Cream

Back 7

Also known as protective base cream; oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing

Front 8

Base Direction

Back 8

Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped

Front 9

Base Placement

Back 9

Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

Front 10

Base Relaxers

Back 10

Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer

Front 11

Base Sections

Back 11

Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section

Front 12

Basic Permanent Wrap

Back 12

Also known as straight set wrap; perm wrapping in which all the rods with in a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod

Front 13

Bookend Wrap

Back 13

Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

Front 14

Bricklay Permanent Wrap

Back 14

Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair

Front 15

Chemical Hair Relaxing

Back 15

A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into straighter or smoother hair

Front 16

Chemical Texture Service

Back 16

Hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

Front 17

Concave Rods

Back 17

Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends

Front 18

Croquignole Perm Wrap

Back 18

Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers

Front 19

Curvature Permanent Wrap

Back 19

Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

Front 20

Double Flat Wrap

Back 20

Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped

Front 21

Double-rob Wrap

Back 21

Also known as piggyback wrap; a technique whereby extra long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction

Front 22

End Papers

Back 22

Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods`

Front 23

Endothermic Waves

Back 23

Perms activated by an outside heat sources, usually a conventional hood-type dryer

Front 24

Exothermic Waves

Back 24

Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing

Front 25

Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG)

Back 25

Main active ingredient in true acid-balanced lotions

Front 26

Half Off-base Placement

Back 26

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section

Front 27

Hydroxide Neutralization

Back 27

An acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulifide bonds

Front 28

Hydroxide Relaxers

Back 28

Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers

Front 29

Keratin Proteins

Back 29

Long, coiled polypeptide chains

Front 30

Lanthionization

Back 30

Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove sulfur atom from disulfide bond and convert it into lanthionine bond

Front 31

Loop Rod

Back 31

Also known as circle rod; tool that is usually 12" long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

Front 32

Low-pH Waves

Back 32

Perms that use sulfates, sulfities and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate they have a low pH

Front 33

Metal Hydroxide Relaxers

Back 33

Ionic compounds formed by metal (sodium, potassium or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen

Front 34

No-base Relaxers

Back 34

Relaxers that do not require application of protective base cream

Front 35

Normalizing Lotions

Back 35

Conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing

Front 36

Off-base Placement

Back 36

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degree angle below the center of the base section so the rod is positioned completely off its base

Front 37

On-base Placement

Back 37

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base

Front 38

Peptide Bonds

Back 38

Also known as end bonds; chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains to form polypeptide chains

Front 39

Permanent Waving

Back 39

A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then the hair undergoes a a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

Front 40

Polypeptide Chains

Back 40

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

Front 41

Single Flat Wrap

Back 41

Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper paced over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped

Front 42

Soft Bender Rods

Back 42

Tool about 12" long with a uniform diameter along the entire length

Front 43

Soft Curl Permanent

Back 43

Combination of thio relaxer and thio permanent that is wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser

Front 44

Spiral Perm Wrap

Back 44

Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod similar to the stripes of a candy cane

Front 45

Straight Rods

Back 45

Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area

Front 46

Thio Neutralization

Back 46

Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curl form

Front 47

Thio Relaxers

Back 47

Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher pH(above 10)

Front 48

Thio-free Waves

Back 48

Perm that uses n ingredient other than ATG as a primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine

Front 49

True Acid Waves

Back 49

Have a pH between 4.5-7.0 and require heat to process they process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves

Front 50

Viscosity

Back 50

The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows

Front 51

Weave Technique

Back 51

Wrapping technique that uses a zigzag partings to divide the base areas