Use LEFT and RIGHT arrow keys to navigate between flashcards;
Use UP and DOWN arrow keys to flip the card;
H to show hint;
A reads text to speech;
134 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
- 3rd side (hint)
Ready to wear (RTW)
|
clothing that is massed produced
|
ready made or off the rack
|
|
vendor/supplier
|
provides raw materials for manufacturers or provides garments for retailers;what retailers refer to manufacturers as
|
|
|
CMT contractor
|
performs all the production operations to produce a style
|
|
|
wholesale reps or sales reps
|
agents of the apparel manufacturing companies; they sell the finished garments to retailers
|
|
|
National Retail Federation(NRF)
|
the world's largest trade organization of retailers
|
conference Bomberger attended
|
|
private label
|
apparel developed by or for a specific retailer
|
|
|
branded apparel
|
developed by a manufacturer & sold to many retailers under the trademarked brand name
|
|
|
sourcing
|
finding a contractor
|
|
|
tariffs/duties
|
taxes placed on imported goods
|
|
|
quota visa
|
an endorsement by the U.S Customs Service (USCS) granting entry & proving that they conform to quota limits for their classification & country of origin
|
|
|
Federal Trade Commission's function
|
US government commission that oversees the Textile Fiber Products ID Act, the Care Labeling Rule, the Wool Products Labeling Act, the Fur Products Labeling Act,Guides for Select Leather & Imitation Leather Products,& Silk Labeling Regulations
|
|
|
Flammable Fabrics Act
|
classifies fabrics according to how fast they burn under controlled testing conditions
|
|
|
Occupational Safety & Health Act
|
seeks to ensure safe & healthful working conditions for every working man & woman in the US
|
|
|
licensing
|
when an agreement is signed to carry someone else's name, or logo on your product;R=registered, T=trademark
|
|
|
knockoff
|
the copy or near copy of a design under a different brand name
|
|
|
benefits of bar codes
|
creates uniformity in the industry, serves as an alternative for a verbal description,speeds up checkout, keeps track of inventory,subtracting sales & markdowns,makes physical inventory faster
|
|
|
RN (registered #)
|
a manufacturer's, retailers, or importers registered id number seen on garment labels; tracking number
|
|
|
care label & its must haves
|
to indicate to consumers the recommended care for apparel; country of origin,fabric,RN, company name,care label
|
|
|
Regulations for Toys & Children's Articles
|
present choking, aspiration, or ingestion hazards because of small parts
|
|
|
Fair Labor Standards Act (FLSA)
|
requires manufacturers to pay at least the minimum wage, to pay overtime for hours worked in excess of 40 hours, & to keep records on each employee regarding hours & pay
|
|
|
trade dress
|
the shape & features of the product itself that arent only distinctive but also identify the manufacturer of the product
|
|
|
price line
|
clustering of merchandise at the same price level
|
|
|
target market
|
consumers in a particular market segment that a manufacturer aims to please w/ a particular product
|
|
|
demographics
|
describe a population based on age, income, education, occupation, race, & geographic location
|
|
|
psychographics
|
characteristics of people according to interests, attitudes, & opinions
|
|
|
generation X
|
people born 1966-1976
|
|
|
generation Y
|
people born after 1976
|
|
|
baby boomers
|
people born 1946-1965
|
|
|
standards
|
fabric & findings (or raw material) & garment or product standards
|
|
|
tolerance
|
the difference between the allowable minimum & maximum of a specification or standard; 5%
|
|
|
chargeback
|
a running total of all defective merchandise is kept by the buyer,authorization for return is granted from the seller, & the appropriate amounts are subtracted from payments on future merchandise
|
|
|
Computer aided design
|
aid the design & manufacturing processes
|
|
|
prototype
|
trial model
|
|
|
outsourcing
|
to select outside contractors to perform production work
|
|
|
precosting
|
a preliminary estimate of what it'll cost to produce the garment
|
|
|
overhead costs
|
expenses of operating the business beyond the direct costs of producing garments (factory, equipment, technology)
|
|
|
wholesale price
|
the price manufacturers charge the retailer
|
|
|
loss leader
|
style sold at a loss to attract buyers to a line
|
|
|
retail price
|
the price retailers charge consumers
|
|
|
lab dip
|
dyed color samples from which the manufacturer can choose
|
|
|
strikeoff
|
PRINT samples from which a manufacturer can choose
|
|
|
shade band
|
long, narrow swatches of fabric cut from different dye lots, all w/acceptable variations of shade, used to maintain consistency of coloration on incoming fabric
|
|
|
preproduction garments
|
trial units from every new style made using actual production techniques in the manufacturing plant
|
|
|
grading
|
increasing & decreasing the dimensions of a pattern to reflect the various sizes to be produced
|
|
|
spreading
|
action of laying multiple plies of cloth on a table before cloth is cut
|
|
|
cutting
|
action of dividing fabric into garment components
|
|
|
wet processing
|
procedure that adds a chemical finish to the assembled garment
|
|
|
bleaching
|
wet process using color removing agents
|
|
|
Prepared for Dye
|
special white cloth from which garments are made that are to be garment dyed after assembly
|
|
|
drop shipping
|
direct shipment from the vendor to the buyer
|
|
|
grain
|
refers to need for lengthwise yarns to run parallel to length of body @ center front & center back,down the center of the arm from shoulder to elbow, & down the center front of each pant leg
|
|
|
bias
|
runs diagonally;any direction that isnt the lengthwise or crosswise grain of a woven fabric
|
|
|
dart
|
triangular fold stitched to shape the flat fabric to the curves & bulges of the body
|
|
|
yoke
|
horizontal division w/in a garment;small flat panel of fabric usually @ the shoulder, waist, or midriff
|
|
|
gore
|
vertical division w/in a garment, usually tapered panels seamed together to add shape to a garment
|
|
|
split yoke
|
features a seam at the center back of the yoke
|
|
|
gathers
|
a series of small folds of fabric, controlled & held in place by stitches to provide visible fullness
|
|
|
elastic
|
fabric w/ high degree of strecth & recovery
|
|
|
applied elastic
|
elastic stitched directly onto the garment to add shape where desired
|
|
|
casing
|
tunnel of fabric through which elastic or drawstring is threaded to provide shape to the garment
|
|
|
interfacing
|
supporting fabric usually hidden between the garment & its facing; lends body,shape, & REINFORCEMENT to limited areas of the garment
|
|
|
silhouette
|
outline or shape of the garment
|
|
|
flat collar
|
lies flat or nearly flat against the garment all around the wearers neck
|
|
|
standing collar
|
a band extending straight up from the neckline edge & standing up around the neck
|
|
|
barrel cuff
|
MOST COMMON TYPE; laps & buttons @ the wrist
|
|
|
convertible cuff
|
an open band that fastens w/layers superimposed to resemble a French cuff
|
|
|
French cuff
|
MOST FORMAL STYLE of an open band cuff
|
|
|
quotas
|
limit the quantity of items that may imported
|
|
|
4 requirements for licensing
|
fabric,design,work environment,& location sold in
|
|
|
dye lot
|
fabrics from the same dye bath,producing color consistency
|
|
|
die
|
sponge w/steel aka tungsten; creates embroidery
|
|
|
3 forms of color removal
|
bleaching,stone & sandwashing,
& frosting |
|
|
shade lot
|
fabrics grouped together for color consistency
|
|
|
shading
|
absence of color consistency
|
|
|
luster
|
the amount of light the fabric reflects
|
|
|
hand
|
how a fabric feels;using 2 fingers & thumb and consistently rubbing a fabric
|
|
|
elasticity/memory
|
when a fabric returns to its original shape;better memory= better quality
|
|
|
colorfastness
|
ability to retain original color
|
|
|
fading
|
lightening of a color because of a dye breakdown
|
|
|
crocking
|
transfer of a fabric's color;will occur 70-80% if a garment hasnt been washed
|
|
|
bleeding
|
surface absorbs color;involves a liquid
|
|
|
wicking
|
changes absorbtion level & slows down evaporation so the body cools down
|
|
|
yarn count/thread count
|
filling & warp threads in one inch
|
|
|
shrinkage
|
amount of condensing; wovens: 2-3% & knits: 3-5%
|
|
|
physical features
|
design,materials,construction,finish,embellished
|
|
|
2 function Consumer Product Safety Commission enforce
|
the Flammable Fabrics Act & issues addressed in the Federal Hazardous Substance Act
|
|
|
end use/intended use
|
helps determine the target market for a product & affects how consumers evaluate quality
|
|
|
standards
|
fabric and findings,or raw material (fabric & zippers,threads,etc) & garment or product
|
|
|
random inspection
|
1.products submitted to inspector as a lot.inspector draws sample according to statistical sampling plan. 2.inspector examines pieces in sample. 3.if inspector doesnt find too many pieces in sample,entire lot's accepted.otherwise lot's rejected.
|
|
|
construction
|
silhouette;how is it put together
|
|
|
finish
|
dye; can be finished before or after it complete
|
|
|
embellish
|
communicative vehicle; key part of apparel;rebrand to create a sense of emotional connection
|
|
|
textile industry cycle
|
1.farming & synthetics 2.fiber manufacturing 3.yarn manufacturing 4.fabric & findings manufacturers 5.dye, print, finish 6.apparel manufacturing(cut,stitch) 7.potential garment dye(once finished) 8.retail stores 9.consumers 10.return business
|
|
|
contracting
|
choosing contractors to perform the production work
|
|
|
single welt pocket
|
single lip usually no more than 1/2' wide
|
|
|
double welt pocket
|
two lips usually no more than 1/4' wide
|
|
|
flap pocket
|
flap extends over the pocket opening
|
|
|
fabric
|
the textile material from which ready to wear garments are produced
|
|
|
5 elements of fit
|
grain,set,line,balance,&ease
|
|
|
set
|
a smooth fit without undesirable wrinkles
|
|
|
line
|
the alignment of the structural lines of the garment w/the natural lines of the body
|
|
|
balance
|
right & left halves of the garment appearing evenly balanced or symmetrical
|
|
|
ease
|
the amount of roominess in a garment
|
|
|
natural vs. synthetic
|
silk,wool,cotton,linen vs. rayon lyocell,acetate,nylon, polyester,rubber,metallic
|
|
|
staple vs. filament fibers
|
short fibers measured in centimeters or inches(natural fibers) vs. long fibers measured in yards or meters(manufactured fibers)
|
|
|
4 methods of dying
|
solution/fiber,yarn,piece,& garment
|
|
|
blended fabrics
|
increase or decrease the characteristics contributed by each fiber to the fabric
|
|
|
yarns
|
group of fibers that can be twisted or spun into a continous strand
|
|
|
staple vs. filament fibers
|
short fibers measured in centimeters or inches(natural fibers) vs. long fibers measured in yards or meters(manufactured fibers)
|
|
|
4 methods of dying
|
solution/fiber,yarn,piece,& garment
|
|
|
blended fabrics
|
increase or decrease the characteristics contributed by each fiber to the fabric
|
|
|
yarns
|
group of fibers that can be twisted or spun into a continous strand
|
|
|
stage 1 of production cycle: customer
|
where do you stand w/customer as price & quality? who's the customer?
|
|
|
stage 2 of production cycle: value
|
determines relationship between price & quality
|
|
|
stage 3 of production cycle: design
|
pattern,then trim
|
|
|
stage 4 of production cycle: fabric
|
shopping piece goods(prints, fabrics,etc)
|
|
|
stage 5 of production cycle: development
|
creating a working sample,prototype sent out to be analyzed
|
|
|
stage 6 of production cycle: production
|
decide what form of distribution will be used(logistics); how will the product be transported
|
|
|
stage 8 of production cycle: retail
|
when it reaches the store; decides how it'll be marketed
|
|
|
stage 9 of production cycle: sale
|
how it's displayed,what's going on the floor,& what stays in the back room
|
|
|
stage 10 of production cycle: return/chargeback
|
in many cases stores are charged 2% rebate
|
|
|
stage 11 of production cycle: repeat business
|
want to give consumers a quality product to keep them coming back;hangtags cause repeat business
|
|
|
70/30 rule
|
70% of product cost is piece goods while 30% is cut,make, trim
|
|
|
stage 1 of embroidery cycle: art
|
design artistically,sketch,CAD
|
|
|
stage 2 of embroidery cycle: disc
|
put in computer,art programs machine(digitally)
|
|
|
stage 3 of embroidery cycle: machine
|
takes info;judged by # of heads(2,6,12,15,24,48);9 cones in needle;1 design on 1 machine @ same time
|
|
|
stage 4 of embroidery cycle: hoop
|
before put on table,stretches out garment so stitches go through clearly
|
|
|
stage 5 of embroidery cycle: backing
|
part of palon gives fabric weight so needle can go through
|
|
|
stage 6 of embroidery cycle: applique
|
stitchings around letter; letters laid on surface of fabric(anything you stitch down)
|
|
|
stage 7 of embroidery cycle: stitch
|
stitch it down
|
|
|
stage 8 of embroidery cycle: trim
|
cut loose threads(done electronically)
|
|
|
stage 9 of embroidery cycle: remove backing
|
hoop burn, stays after fabric's forced down
|
|
|
stage 10 of embroidery cycle: steam
|
physically takes away hoop burn
|
|
|
stage 7 of production cycle: distribution
|
decide what form of distribution will be used(logistics);how will the product be transported
|
|