• Shuffle
    Toggle On
    Toggle Off
  • Alphabetize
    Toggle On
    Toggle Off
  • Front First
    Toggle On
    Toggle Off
  • Both Sides
    Toggle On
    Toggle Off
  • Read
    Toggle On
    Toggle Off
Reading...
Front

Card Range To Study

through

image

Play button

image

Play button

image

Progress

1/183

Click to flip

Use LEFT and RIGHT arrow keys to navigate between flashcards;

Use UP and DOWN arrow keys to flip the card;

H to show hint;

A reads text to speech;

183 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back

Nature

a general term describing the chemical type of material such as the fiber content or metal and it's physical structure (i.e. woven fabric)

Characteristics

a general term describing physical aspects of materials including their weight, finish or dimensional aspects (i.e. yarn count of the fabric)

Worth Street Textile Market Rules

a standard code of practices for marketing textile materials in the United States that address: business practices and define/address standard textile practices

Staple

short

Filament

long

Crimp

wave

Cross-Sectional Shape

cut right

Fiber Characteristics

fiber content, fiber quality, yarn quality, fabric quality, and end product quality

Why is fiber content important?

fibers present, percentages, care/handling, cost, and promotion



consumers and manufacturers need to know what fibers are present in a garment

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

also known as the "Textile Labeling Rule," requires brands to attach a label to covered textile products containing the generic names and percentages by weight of each fiber in the product, the name under which the manufacturer or other responsible party does business or RN number, and the name of the country in which the product was processed or manufactured

Wool Products Labeling Act

requires persons manufacturing or selling products containing wool to accurately label each item with the fiber content and origin

How can we identify fiber content?

qualitative and quantitative methods

Qualitative Methods

identification of the generic fiber types present in a textile product; burn test, melting point (synthetic), microscoping ((natural), solubility

Quantitative Methods

determine the percentage by weight of each generic fiber present in blends; weigh fibers present, microscoping (counting fibers),

Yarn Type & Structure

how the yarn was made, the components used to produce the yarn, and the nature or character of the components

Yarn Number

"yarn count," describes the size of the yarn

Yarn Twist

describes the number of times the fibers in the yarn turn around the lengthwise central axis per unit measure; s- and z-twist

Yarn Defects & Yarn Quality

neps, slubs, hairiness, thick/thin

Yarn Defects

refer to irregularities within the yarn that are not deliberately part of the yarn

Yarn Quality

absence of localized or periodic faults in the yarn ; yarn strength and elongation performance, bulk properties of textured yarns, shrinkage of yarns, yarn evenness, and friction coefficient

Fabric Characteristics

fabrication and fabric density (count and gauge)

Fabrication

refers to the technique used to produce the fabric

Fabric Density

describes the number of components in the fabric per unit measure

Count

the number of yarns in the lengthwise and crosswise direction of the fabrics in one inch or centimeter

Gauge

refers to the needles per inch of the knitting machine used to knit the fabric

Weighing & Measuring the Fabric

fabric mass per unit area, fabric packaging, length and width (put-ups)

Fabric Mass Per Unit Area

weight, important factor in determining fabric amount, cost, and quality

Length

used to describe the linear quantity of fabric delivered or used

Width

describes the full usable width of the fabric from one edge to the other

Put-Ups

length of fabric on the roll or bolt with lighter weight, soft fabrics that weigh less than 6 oz/yd2

Light Weight

less than 4 oz per yard

Medium Weight

4-7 oz per yard

Heavy Weight

over 7 oz per yard

Type of Fabric Defects

fabric deformations, bow and skew, crimp and take-up, and barre

Fabric Deformations

fabric rolled unevenly

Bow

crosswise yarns form one or more arcs as it moves across the fabric

Skew

crosswise yarn forms some angle other than 90 degrees as it moves across the fabric

Crimp

undulations or waves in a yarn as a result of a woven or knit fabric structure

Take-Up

additional length of yarn needed to produce a piece of fabric

Barre

unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric or the courses of a circular knit fabric

Fabric Finishes

chemical or physical treatments of materials to enhance appearance or performance (metallic coat, fire retardant, water repellent, etc.)

Fabric Quality

based on the quality of each component used to produce and finish the fabric, as well as the way in which the various components interact

Defects

departure or nonconformance of some characteristic from its intended level or state (patent, latent, and grade)

Patent Defects

flaws and irregularities that can be perceived during examination or inspection of the material

Latent Defects

hidden problem that is not apparent no matter how carefully the material or product is examined

Grade

numerical value assigned to a fabric based on the number, size, and severity of the defect; defects, demerits, penalty points

Defects, Demerits, Penalty Points

based on the length of the defect

Closures

zippers, buttons, hooks and eyes, hook and loop fasteners, snaps

Thread

special type of yarn that will pass through a sewing machine rapidly, form a stitch efficiently and consistently, and perform adequately in a textile product

Elastics

narrow fabric used to create an expandable opening in a product

Trims

include a wide range of materials and treatments that enhance the aesthetics of a textile product

Interlinings, Linings, and Other Support Materials

provide foundation for product shape, support areas subjected to stress, help maintain a products appearance, enhance comfort, or enclose interior parts for aesthetic or performance reasons

Strike-Through

when the bonding agent appears on the face of the fashion fabric

Differential Shrinkage

when the fashion and interlining fabrics do not shrink at the same rate

Delamination

layers of interlining and fashion fabric separate completely or as bubbles or puckers in certain areas

Boardiness

unattractive change of hand is another problem that can occur with fusible interlinings

Sewn-in Labels

must be compatible with the other materials used in the product and the care as stated on the care label

Hangtags

include info. at point of sale, but they are not required to be permamnent

Quality Assurance

designing producing, evaluating and assessing goods to determine if they will meet the company's target market

Standards and Specifications

used to determine the level of quality for all goods and each element within the good; the standards and specs define quality for a product

Testing

takes place to ensure that each element going into the goods are up to the standards and specifications required to produce the good that will be acceptable for the company and company's target market

Durability Testing

evaluates how the various materials used in a product perform when they are subjected to conditions that address their durability



failure occurs when the fabric tears, cracks, snags or pills to the point it would be unacceptable to consumers; there are no pass/fail tests

What happens during durability testing?

fabrics are tested in new condition



writing performance specs is is complex but companies do this for quality assurance

Factors Affecting Durability

type of fiber, yarn, fabric structure, fabric weight, finishes

Strength Testing

evaluates several dimensions by which failure related to durability can occur

Strength Testing and Force

the amount of force exerted on the fabric is a measure of energy used to produce the failure (force is measured as mass amount/ weight: i.e. pounds, grams; expressed as "pounds of force" (lbf)

How is strength tested?

fabric is tested in both directions (warp and filling or courses and wales), fabric is often tested in various conditions, fabric specimens are tested from close to the center of the piece, results can skew if you test it from the selvage

Tensile Testing Machines

the resistance of a material to breaking under tension

What does ASTM stand for?

American Society Testing Materials

What does ASTM do in the textile industry?

dry testing and develop specs and terminology for industry

Tensile Testing Machines Methods

constant rate of extension (CRE), constant rate of traverse (CRT), constant rate of loading (CRL)

Constant Rate of Extension (CRE)

pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and force is measured by the moving mechanism, the pulling increases and fabric elongates and force is continually measured until the fabric ruptures

Constant Rate of Traverse (CRT)

pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and force is applied from the other clamp where the measuring device is located producing a rate of increase/force

Constant Rate of Loading (CRL)

least common method; rate of increase of force is uniform after the first 3 seconds

Tensile Strength

the strength of a material under tension and is expressed in the terms of force (breaking force/strength, breaking elongation)

Breaking Force/Strength

the force needed to rupture fabric

Breaking Elongation

the elongation corresponding to the breaking force

Tensile tests measure the resistance of a material to...

stretching

Tensile Strength: Breaking Force and Elongation

grab test and ASTM D 5034 Grab Test

Grab Test

uses wider specimens and usually just woven and non-wovens ( not knits); takes into account surrounding fabric; most realistic

ASTM D 5034 Grab Test

modified grab test, stress-strain curve, breaking point, yield point

Modified Grab Test

includes lateral slits in the fabric; usually used only on wovens or fabrics that are prone to raveling (note the red lines)

Stress-Strain Curve

the relationship between the material's resistance to stress and its deformation /elongation caused by a strain; a graph

Breaking Point

the point the curve stops and the material ruptures

Yield Point

the point the stress cannot be recovered in the fabric; permanent damage

Tearing Strength

measures a material's resistance to start or continue a tear

Tearing Strength Methods

trapezoid method and tongue test

Trapezoid method

slit is cut in the fabric and force increases until yarns tear

Tongue Test

is similar but specimen size is different and machine is different, creates tears with a falling pendulum

Bursting Strength

the capacity of a material to resist the force or pressure required to rupture it by expanding it with force applied at right angles; with the force the fabric bubbles and finally ruptures or tears



both warp and filling are subjected to the force so separate tests are not needed , thread is also tested this way

Bursting Strength Test Methids

ball burst test (amount of pressure it takes a ball to rupture fabric), diaphragm bursting test

Friction

describes the resistance to relative motion between two objects in physical contact with each other; smooth materials create less friction than rough materials

Friction Testing

abrasion resistance, pile retention, piling, snagging

Types of Abrasion Resistance

flat/planar abrasion, flex abrasion, edge abrasion

Flat/Planar Abrasion

when a flat object is rubbed against a flat material

Flex Abrasion

material is bent/flexed when rubbing



wyzenbeek

Edge Abrasion

material is folded back on itself while being abraded; most show damage her first



accelerator method; specimen is turned inside a cylindrical chamber lined with an abrasive metal

How iare the abrasion resistance methods evaluated?

endpoint, percentage loss in breaking force, visual charge

Endpoint

counts the number of cycles until the fabric ruptures, 2 or more yarns have broken or a hole appears

Percentage Loss in Breaking Force

breaking force is measured by being subjected to a specific amount of force before being measured

Visual Change

the effect on the luster, color, surface nap/piling, matting or other appearance changes



abrasion specs are written as minimums


martindale


taber abraser

Pile Retention

the degree to which cut-pile yarns are held secure and intact; resist pile loss

Pilling Resistance

measures the resistance to form pills on a textile surface; fiber ends work to the surface of the fabric, abrade, break off and entangle with other fibers on the surface of the fabric

Piling Propensity

the ease and extent of piling

Martindale Pressure Tester

similar to the martindale abrasion resistance but two pieces pieces of the same fabric are rubbed together to simulate piling

Random Tumble Pilling Tester

tumbled in a cylinder lined with cork with added lint to generate pills; pills are evaluated

Brush Tester

uses 2 rotating platforms; one is a nylon brush and brushes against the fabric then the brush is removed and the specimens rub against each other to form pills

Snagging

a portion of the fabric structure catches on an abradant material producing a change in the fabric appearance, structure or yarn structure creating: distortion, protrusion, snag

Snagging Test MEthods

bean bag snag test and mace test

Distortion

visible defects in fabric texture

Protrusion

visible group of fibers, yarn portion or yarn sticking above the fabric surface

Snag

yarn or yarn portion pulled up from the surface of fabric

Yarn Distortion

refers to a condition of woven fabrics where symmetrical surfaces of the fabric is altered by shifting or sliding yarns (warp or filling yarns)

Frosting

a change in fabric color caused by localized abrading; dyes that don't penetrate the fibers/fabric well, brought on by wear/excessive force, can be deliberately added for appearance

Hoop & Loop Fasteners Methods

peel strength test and shear strength

Peel Strength Test

used to assess the strength necessary to separate the two parts of the fastener

Shear Strength

amount of force required to cause the two parts to slide on each other; causing separation

Snap Fasteners

tested to determine their ability to resist a pull both perpendicular and parallel to the plane that they are attached

Fusible Interlinings

tested to determine the boding strength of composite fabrics (laminated, fused, bonded fabrics); bond strength is the force required to separate the layers

Buttons

tested for impact resistance or it's ability to resist fracturing when force is applied

Zippers

tested for crosswise strength, element pull-off, element slippage and holding strength of zipper stups

Durability testing is testing 2 key things:

force and abrasion

Ch. 7

7

Comfort

how materials interact with the body and addresses how the body's functional environment can be expanded

Elongation

expressed as a percentage of the ratio of a material to its length before stretching

Stretch

an increase in one dimension due to force exerted on the material

Comfort Stretch

small increases in material dimensions due to movement

Elastic Fabric

made with an elastomeric material (i.e. nylon/spandex)

Stretch Yarn Fabric

made using at least some yarns with a high degree of stretch/rapid recovery

Low Power Stretch

material with high stretch/good recovery when small load/force applied

Fabric Stretch

expressed as %, increase in length of fabric from load applied under specific conditions

Fabric Growth

expressed as %, difference between original length and length after load removed

Heat

the internal energy within an object, measured by temperature

Calorie

the amount of energy needed to raise 1g of water 1 degree Celsius

Heat Transfer

the flow of internal energy between a hot object and a cold object

Conduction

heat transfer by direct contact

Convection

hot molecules mix with cool molecules

Radiation

the transmission of energy between objects that are in straight lines of sight

Phase Change

when an object changes its physical state

Evaporation

from a liquid to a vapor

Condensation

from a vapor to a liquid

Moisture Absorbency

the ability of one material (absorbent) to take in or absorb another material (absorbate)

Saturation Point

when a material is saturated when it can no longer absorb additional moisture, excess moisture may either pool around the material or pass through it

Specular Reflectance

the shiny reflective surface of a drop of water when it beads up on a surface

Water Repellancy

the relative resistance of a material to any single aspect or combination of surface wetting, water penetration or water absorbency

Water Resistance

the ability of a material to withstand penetration by water under pressure or water that drops from a distance and strikes against a material with a known amount of force, such as driving rain

Waterproof

materials are coated composite materials that have closed pores or very tiny interstices that resist water penetration regardless of the pressure or force

Water Vapor Transmission

measures the speed with which water vapor passes through a material

Dessicant

a compound that absorbs water vapor from the air, thereby maintaining a low relative humidity in its immediate environment

Thickness

the distance through the fabric from one surface to the other



affects comfort in terms of heat transfer, flexibility, bulk, and drape; important in terms of planning for production, shipping, packaging, and handling

Hand & Skin Contact

important aesthetic and comfort characteristic; also affects spreading, cutting, sewing, and handling operations during manufacturing

Hand

the tactile sensations or impressions that arise when materials are touched, squeezed, rubbed, or otherwise handled

Skin Contact

occurs when the surface of the skin touches a material, but it is a static condition in which neither the material nor the body is required to move or interact for any sensation to occur

Stiffness

measure of a fabric's resistance to bending or flexing



assessed in hand and relates to other performance measures; affects fabric drape, resistance to roll such as in waistbands, resistance to wrinkling, and other aspects related to comfort and aesthetics

Flexural Rigidity

measure of material stiffness that is calculated using fabric mass and length of overhang

Drape

describes how a material falls or hangs or flows over a three-dimensional form



no standard test methods are used to determine drape



nonstandard procedure that uses the drapememter

Air Permeability

rate of air flow passing vertically through a known area of material when an air pressure difference exists between the two sides of the material

Wind Resistance

affects the behavior of material that is confronted by or exposed to a dynamic condition of rapidly moving air (wind)

Electrostatic Propensity

measure of the capacity of a nonconducting material to acquire and hold an electrical charge through friction or other means

Electrostatic Cling

the propensity of one material to adhere to another because of an electrical charge on one or both sides

Light Reflectance, Transmittance, and Absorbtion

the ability of these materials to allow light to enter a structure is assessed by illuminating a specimen and measuring the light reflected, transmitted, and absorbed

Safety

the physical ricks to which the user of a textile product is exposed, involves strength and durability characteristics

Flammability

the way a material reacts to heat, the manner in which ignites and burns, the ease or difficulty with which a burning textile is extinguished, the type of ash or melt remaining, and the amount of smoke produced



common property of most materials used for apparel, furnishings, and some industrial products

Mandatory Procedures

Flammable Fabrics Act


Amended Flammable Fabrics Act


the intent of mandatory testing is to remove unsafe materials and products from the market

Char Length

the amount of fabric consumed or damaged by the flame

Voluntary Procedures

testing material flammability is voluntary for these product types; some procedures include performance specifications, but most do not

Ultraviolet Radiation

source of damaging energy to organic materials, including hair, fiber, and skin

Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF)

calculated as the ratio of the UVR radiance at the detector with no specimen to the UVR irradiance at the detector with a specimen present

Biological Resistance

a materials ability to block the transmission of organisms through it

Material Specifications

identify the test method by organization and number, the desired measure of performance, the option within the procedure, and the unit by which that performance characteristic is measured

Thermal Protection

the amount of heat transfer protection provided by a material when it is exposed to an open flame

Chemical Resistance

materials ability to block the transmission of chemicals through it

Permeation

involves chemical movement through the material at a molecular level

Penetration

the flow of chemical through closures, porous materials, seams, pinholes, and other imperfection sof a material on a nonmolecular level

Breakthough Time

measured by exposure to the first detectable presence of the chemical on the other side of the material

Permeation Rate

the volume of chemical that passes through the material in a given time unit

Degradation

a loss or negative change in one or more material

Impact Resistance

the ability of a material to withstand high-speed loading or a significant force applied to a small area

Health

the interaction of physical, mental, emotional, and social aspects of the individual

Allergens

foreign materials that cause a physical reaction by the body after exposure

Irritants

materials that produce a very mild pain sensation, such as rough materials that abrade, poke, or stab the skin

Formaldehyde

a chemical compound that had been used in finishing of cotton and cellulosic materials

Formaldehyde Release

the amount of formaldehyde evolved from textiles in accelerated storage conditions and includes free (unbonded) formaldehyde as well as formaldehyde released by the degradation of finishes