<Essofocean8Ed> Chapter 8: Waves And Water Dynamics

Front 1

force that causes ocean waves to form

Back 1

disturbing force

Front 2

movement of water at the pynocline (between an interface of different-density waters)

Back 2

internal waves

Front 3

height of an internal wave can exceed

Back 3

100 m

Front 4

waves created by a movement of mass into the water

Back 4

splash waves

Front 5

name 2 events splash waves can be created by

Back 5

coastal landslides, calving icebergs

Front 6

waves created by large, quick disturbances

Back 6

tsunamis, or seismic sea waves

Front 7

name 3 causes of tsunamis

Back 7

earthquakes, turbidity currents, volcanic eruptions

Front 8

waves caused by gravitational forces of sun and moon

Back 8

tides

Front 9

waves behind a ship or boat

Back 9

wake

Front 10

waves that keep moving forward

Back 10

progressive waves

Front 11

3 types of progressive wave

Back 11

longitudinal, transverse, orbital

Front 12

wave type for which particles vibrate with direction of wave propagation

Back 12

longitudinal

Front 13

synonymous with longitudinal wave

Back 13

push-pull wave

Front 14

shape of a wave

Back 14

waveform

Front 15

what type of wave is sound

Back 15

longitudinal

Front 16

synonymous with transverse wave

Back 16

side-to-side wave

Front 17

wave for which particles moving perpendicular to direction of wave propagation

Back 17

transverse wave

Front 18

what type of wave can generally only move through solids but not liquids

Back 18

transverse wave

Front 19

waves that have motion mixed between longitudinal and transverse with particles moving in circles or ellipses

Back 19

orbital waves

Front 20

what type of wave is an ocean interface wave

Back 20

orbital wave

Front 21

high part of a wave or peak

Back 21

crest

Front 22

low part of a wave

Back 22

trough

Front 23

name of line halfway between crests and troughs

Back 23

still water level, zero energy level

Front 24

vertical distance from crest to trough

Back 24

wave height (H)

Front 25

distance between two successive crests or troughs

Back 25

wavelength (L)

Front 26

ratio of wave height to wavelength

Back 26

wave steepness

Front 27

formula for wave steepness

Back 27

H/L

Front 28

above what wave steepness do waves break

Back 28

1/7

Front 29

time it takes for one full wave (one wavelength) to pass a fixed position

Back 29

period (T)

Front 30

typical range of periods for ocean waves

Back 30

6 to 16 seconds

Front 31

number of waves passing a fixed location per unit of time

Back 31

frequency (f)

Front 32

formula relating frequency and period

Back 32

f = 1/T

Front 33

depth at which orbital wave motion becomes negligible

Back 33

wave base

Front 34

what is the depth of the wave base

Back 34

d = L/2

Front 35

slight movement of water forward with each wave

Back 35

wave drift (net mass transport)

Front 36

waves in water deeper than the wave base (d>L/2)

Back 36

deep-water waves

Front 37

rate at which a wave travels (2 names)

Back 37

wave speed (S), celerity (C)

Front 38

equations for any wave celerity based on f, L, and/or T

Back 38

C = L/T = Lf

Front 39

equations for deep-water wave celerity based on T or L

Back 39

C (m/s) = 1.56T = 1.2*L^0.5

Front 40

longer wavelength waves move: slower or faster?

Back 40

faster

Front 41

waves in depth less than L/20 (d<L/20)

Back 41

shallow-water waves

Front 42

type of wave that "feels bottom" or "touches bottom"

Back 42

shallow-water wave

Front 43

equation for shallow-water wave based on depth

Back 43

C (m/s) = 3.13*d^0.5

Front 44

are tides and tsunamis: transitional, deep-water, or shallow-water waves

Back 44

shallow-water waves

Front 45

waves that are at a depth of between L/2 and L/20 and intermediate between shallow-water and deep-water waves

Back 45

transitional waves

Front 46

what are most ocean waves created by

Back 46

wind

Front 47

small waves with rounded crests and V-shaped troughs

Back 47

capillary waves, ripples

Front 48

capillary waves have wavelengths under _____

Back 48

1.74 cm

Front 49

what is the primary restoring force of capillary waves

Back 49

surface tension, capillarity

Front 50

waves larger than capillary waves with rounded troughs and pointed crests

Back 50

gravity waves

Front 51

primary restoring force of waves larger than capillary waves

Back 51

gravity

Front 52

waveform of gravity waves with pointed crests and rounded troughs

Back 52

trochoidal

Front 53

area where wind-generated waves are created

Back 53

sea, sea area

Front 54

3 factors correlated with wave energy

Back 54

fetch, duration, wind speed

Front 55

the distance over which the wind blows in one direction

Back 55

fetch

Front 56

what wave property is directly proportional to wave energy

Back 56

wave height

Front 57

open ocean breakers

Back 57

whitecaps

Front 58

scale measuring wind speeds based on the appearance of the sea surface

Back 58

Beaufort Wind Scale

Front 59

what is the range of categories in the Beaufort Scale

Back 59

0 to 12

Front 60

area where waves have reached their maximum size for current conditions by equilibrium

Back 60

fully developed sea

Front 61

uniform, symmetrical waves moving faster than the wind that have moved out of the area of their creation

Back 61

swells

Front 62

do swells usually have low or high wave steepness

Back 62

low wave steepness

Front 63

group of waves sorted by wavelength and speed

Back 63

wave train

Front 64

process of sorting waves by wavelength and speed, which forms wave trains

Back 64

wave dispersion

Front 65

the distance over which waves move from a choppy sea to low-wind (where they become swells)

Back 65

decay distance

Front 66

an individual wave in a wave train moves by a factor of what compared to the speed of the wave train

Back 66

2

Front 67

mixing of waves together to form different patterns

Back 67

interference

Front 68

interference occurring when wave trains mix in phase and the crests and troughs line up

Back 68

constructive interference

Front 69

interference occurring when wave trains mix out of phase and the crests and troughs cancel

Back 69

destructive interference

Front 70

varied sequence of high and low waves

Back 70

surf beat

Front 71

interference mixed between being constructive and destructive

Back 71

mixed interference

Front 72

area near shore where waves break

Back 72

surf zone

Front 73

the pattern resulting from interference of multiple waves

Back 73

superposition

Front 74

shallowing of water

Back 74

shoaling

Front 75

what changes happen to a wave as it reaches shallow water: speed, wavelength, height, steepness, eccentricity?

Back 75

decrease, decrease, increase, increase, increase

Front 76

for which source of waves will the surf be more rough, choppy, and irregular: swell from distant storm or local winds?

Back 76

local winds

Front 77

equation relating breaker height to depth

Back 77

d = 1.33*(height of breaker)

Front 78

how does a wave break

Back 78

water on top moves faster than water on bottom of wave

Front 79

breakers for which water slowly topples down front of wave

Back 79

spilling breaker

Front 80

breaker that has a curling crest

Back 80

plunging breaker

Front 81

breaker that quickly breaks near the shore

Back 81

surging breaker

Front 82

name the breakers that occur at the following shore slopes: shallow, moderate, steep

Back 82

spilling, plunging, surging

Front 83

bending of waves as the approach shore and "touch bottom"

Back 83

refraction

Front 84

at about what angle are most waves' orthogonal lines compared to a gentle, regular shore

Back 84

90 degrees, perpendicular

Front 85

lines pointing in the direction of wave propagation and perpendicular to wave fronts

Back 85

orthogonal lines, wave rays

Front 86

where is wave energy concentrated most: headland or bay?

Back 86

headland

Front 87

process by which a rigid barrier returns incoming waves back to their source direction

Back 87

reflection

Front 88

area where reflection occurs off of a jetty at Newport Harbor, California and creates constructive interference

Back 88

"The Wedge"

Front 89

waves that are the sum of two waves moving in opposite directions

Back 89

standing waves

Front 90

lines along which there is no vertical movement among standing waves

Back 90

nodal lines, nodes

Front 91

lines along which there is maximum vertical movement among standing waves

Back 91

antinodal lines, antinodes

Front 92

japanese translation for tsunami

Back 92

harbor wave

Front 93

wavelength of a tsunami typically exceeds _________

Back 93

200 km

Front 94

typical speed of a tsunami in the open ocean

Back 94

700 km/h

Front 95

what happens when a tsunami reaches shore

Back 95

rapid decrease then rise in sea level

Front 96

massive, solitary wave that is unusually large (especially compared to surrounding waves) due to constructive interference

Back 96

rogue wave

Front 97

number of large ships that go missing each year without a trace

Back 97

10

Front 98

how does a current result in a rogue wave

Back 98

current pushes against wave and makes it steeper

Front 99

where are rogue waves common; why here

Back 99

"Wild Coast," southeast coast of Africa; Agulhas current meats Antarctic storm waves

Front 100

origin of large volcanic tsunami in 1883 with the highest-energy natural explosion ever recorded

Back 100

Krakatau, Indonesia

Front 101

place where the largest wave (splash wave) ever recorded occurred due to an enormous rockslide in 1958

Back 101

Lituya Bay, Alaska

Front 102

how tall was the Lituya Bay wave

Back 102

530 m

Front 103

PTWC

Back 103

Pacific Tsunami Warning Center

Front 104

world's first wave power plant that began operating in 2000

Back 104

LIMPET 500

Front 105

standing wave in an enclosed or partially enclosed basin

Back 105

seiche wave