Use LEFT and RIGHT arrow keys to navigate between flashcards;
Use UP and DOWN arrow keys to flip the card;
H to show hint;
A reads text to speech;
90 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
|
Seam Line |
-The stitched line of a seam
-Parallel to and always a specified distance from the raw edge of the fabric |
|
|
Seam Allowance or Seam Margin |
The narrow width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric
|
|
|
ASTM Seam Identifications are written into specifications by |
-Using two uppercase letters that identify the seam class
-Followed by a lowercase letter or letters that identify the seam type |
|
|
6 ASTM International Seam Classes |
4 MAJOR CLASSES:
-Superimposed Seams -Lapped Seams -Bound Seams -Flat Seams -Ornamental Stitching -Edge Finishes |
|
|
LS Class |
Lapped Seams -With more than 100 variations -Formed by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more plies of fabric and sewing them together |
|
|
SS Class |
Superimposed Seams •Mostused seam class• •Most common seam is the 301SSa •The cut edges of the fabric layers arestacked on top of one another to form a booked seam readyfor stitching |
|
|
BS Class |
Bound Seams Made by encasing the raw edges of a seam with fabric strips With increased use of safety stitches (or serging) and the growing use of knit fabrics that do not ravel, the use of bound seams has decreased |
|
|
FS Class |
Flat (butted) Seams Look the same on both sides Join fabric plies by butting the raw edges together and securing them with a 600-class cover stitch or a zigzag stitch |
|
|
EF Class |
Edge Finish Stitching -Stitches that are applied to finish an edge or for ornamental purpose |
|
|
OS Class |
Ornamental Seams |
|
|
Look at all images for stitches |
*** |
|
|
Flat Fell Seams |
LS = Lapped seams: Formed by sewing face side up, lapping one layer over the other
|
|
|
Look at images for Ornamental Stitching |
*** |
|
|
French Seams |
a seam within a seam
•Aquality indicator •Excessivelabor and time •Getting rid of any of the raw edges |
|
|
Seam Performance |
• Type and width of seam allowance
• Strength and tendency of the fabric to ravel • Characteristics of the stitches Depends on: -how it is stitched, pressed, & finished fit fabric care of garment |
|
|
Common Seam Quality Defects Look at corresponding images |
-Unraveling caused by a broken or skipped stitch
-Restitched seams reflecting a “splice” where a thread broke or ran out during construction -A ropy hem caused by poor operator handling or too much pressure on the presser foot |
|
|
Seam Finishes |
-The finish should not add bulk to the seam
-A variety of finishes are used in the industry 1. Plain Finish 2.Clean Finish 3.Pinked Finish 4.Bound Finish 5.Overcast Finish 6.Double-Stitched Finish The finish of the seam impacts the performance of the garment •Youneed to add strength to the same •Preventraveling or rolling |
|
|
Plain Finish ( has raw edges) |
-When a plain seam is left untreated
-Garments that will be fully lined |
|
|
Clean Finish |
Turned over the seam allowance and stitched
|
|
|
Pinked Finish |
* Look at image - Done by Machinery |
|
|
Bound Finish |
-Covering the raw edges of each ply with a folded ribbon tape or bias binding
-Known as inner beauty -It would be an expensive garment, if every seam is bound, that is taking more labor, materials, and time |
|
|
Overcast Finish |
-A series of loose, stitches placed to encircle the raw edge of each seam allowance
-Also known as a serged or merrowed finish |
|
|
Double Stitched Finish |
Look at Images -Second row of stitching ¼ of an inch from the first row -Often on sheer or transparent fabrics |
|
|
Bias Seam |
-Forms soft draping
-Mostly often found in skirts |
|
|
More Edge Finishes |
Methods OTHER than HEMS include:
-Facings – separate -Cut-on facings or extended facing -Bias strip Read and understand what a facing is Bias strip- function is to serve as the neck finish |
|
|
Types of Facing |
1. Shaped or Separate Facing 2. Extended Facing 3. Bias Facing |
|
|
Shaped or Separate Facing |
-Fabric pieces shaped identically to the garment edges they face
-Should be cut on the same grain as the garment piece they face -Ideal for shaped necklines, hems & sleeveless armholes as they conform to any shape -Shaped facings are SEWN ON, not FOLDED BACK Facing- any piece of fabric used to finish raw edges -Facings are the same shape as the garment -Interfacing is used to add body and support |
|
|
Extended Facing |
-The simplest type of facing
-Require least labor & add the least bulk to garment -Used less than shaped facing due to more fabric usage -Can only be used on straight edges |
|
|
Bias Facing |
-Narrow, bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges
-Form a neat, inconspicuous facing – approximately ½” wide Require little fabric Most cost efficient Useful for sheer fabrics Low in bulk Not suited for intricately shaped edges |
|
|
Look over seam quality defects |
**** |
|
|
Hems |
is any finish at the edge of a garment
|
|
|
Standards for Evaluating Seam Types |
Standards
-the type of theme that is specified for the construction of the garment must be compatible with the type of fabric. - Where is the location of the seam -The care of the garment - Stitches and seams must be parallel -Seams should be smooth with no puckers or pulls - They should lay flat -A wider seam allowance gives you more play but it’s a higher expense factor |
|
|
Three Basic Hems |
1. Turned-up Hem 2. Faced Hem 3. Enclosed Edge Hem |
|
|
Hem Stitches Look at images |
Hand- Stitched ( Overcast) Lockstitch Machine (Blindstitch) Blindstitch Hemmer |
|
|
Narrow Hems |
Garments with a lot of flare, the narrower the hem
|
|
|
Double Needle |
look at images |
|
|
Ruffle and Asymmetrical Hemlines, Faggoting Stitch Hem |
Look at images |
|
|
Lettuce Edge Hem - look at image |
Created by stretching the edge as it is stitched so that it ripples attractively
|
|
|
Other Hem forms |
Unless a hem is meant to be decorative it should be inconspicuous
|
|
|
Facts: Leather can be glued or top stitched Look at hem allowance pictures |
** |
|
|
Evaluation Guide for Hems |
-Hemline appears parallel to floor, unless designed to be asymmetrical
-Hem is consistent in size and shape from one end to another |
|
|
Hem Guidelines |
-Hem is flat & smooth with no wrinkles, ridges, twists, puckers or pleats
-Hem finish is appropriate for the fabric, design & cost of garment -All topstitching and edge stitching is stitched an even distance from the edge -Hem is comfortable to wear and aesthetically pleasing |
|
|
Hem Edge |
The raw edge of the hem |
|
|
Hem Finish |
Application for neatening the hem edge |
|
|
Hemline |
The edge of the garment |
|
|
Hem Allowance |
The width of the unfinished hem |
|
|
Closures |
Sometimes there is sufficient stretch in the garment fabric, making a closure unnecessary
-Fastenings that allow access to the garment and adjust the fit of the garment -Must be tested thoroughly to prevent potential failures -Jackets can have a single-breasted or a double-breasted closure |
|
|
Types of Closures |
-Buttons
-Zippers -Snap -fasteners -Hooks and eyes -Hook-and-loop tape |
|
|
Functional and decorative closures |
Zipper and Buttons |
|
|
Zippers |
-Continuous closures developed for use in garments
-Zipper chains or teeth may be made of metal, plastic, or nylon |
|
|
Selection of Zipper Type |
Garment:
-Type -Design -End use -Cost -Care Fabric: -Bulk & Weight -Texture -Type & Transparency |
|
|
Common Zipper Application Methods Review images |
-Lapped
-Slot or Centered -Exposed -Fly Front -Invisible |
|
|
Fly Front |
-A type of lapped zipper
-Most commonly used on slacks & jeans |
|
|
Invisible Zipper |
Invisible zipper is sewn in such a way that it disappears into a seam
|
|
|
Separating Zipper |
Image |
|
|
Buttons |
Mostly made of:
-Nylon -Polyester -Metal -Wood -Animal horn -Rubber -Shell |
|
|
Button Terms |
DIAMETER – width of the button
LIGNES – measurement (1/40”) used to specifyEYES – holes in the button SHANK – small rink of eye on the underside of the button THICKNESS – button depth Buttons attach to garments with: Holes, called EYES Loops, called SHANKS |
|
|
Buttonholes Images* |
Stitched buttonholes, either straight or keyhole
Bound buttonholes made of fabric strips Slot buttonholes, which are openings in seams |
|
|
Closures *** |
Loops: Tubes of fabric or thread used instead of buttonholes for securing buttons during wear
Frogs: Decorative coiled cording used to replace traditional buttons and buttonholes Toggle: A pair of cord loops secured by a rod Garment closures can be differentiated in a variety of ways - fasteners, top stitching, a framed or bias edge ,edge shaping |
|
|
More on Closures *** |
Snaps - Fasteners that are sewn on or mechanically attached. Closure that interlocks when pressed together, two parts/a ball & a socket
Hook-and-eye closures consist of a type of hook and a receptacle (eye) for the hook Button Loops – Fabric strip, cording, brading, or elastic that encircles a button; substitutes for a buttonhole |
|
|
Hook and Loop Tape Fastener |
-Best known by the brand name Velcro
-Consists of two separate tapes that stick when pressed together - Convenient closure for children’s wear or people with dexterity problems |
|
|
Types of waistlines Images** |
-Straight Waistband
-Contour Waistband -Waistline Seam -Faced Waistline -Elasticized Casing at garment edge |
|
|
Pocket Styles Images** |
1. Patch
2.In Seam 3.Bound 4.Welt 5.Flap 6.Exposed in seam |
|
|
Patch Pocket |
Hem-part of pocket opening that folds to inside & finishes the opening
Pocket sack- bag or pouch that forms the pocket Opening - unstitched section, allows hand to enter the sack |
|
|
In Seam Pocket |
-Pocket bag is inside the garment
-The opening is stitched into the seam |
|
|
Exposed In-Seam |
Exposed pockets: Typically used on jeans and pants
-They are frequently topstitched |
|
|
Bound or Double Welt |
-A slit in the garment finished with a welt or flap
-Pocket bag is inside the garment |
|
|
Flap Pockets |
A flap is sewn to the top edge of theslash, which falls over the pocket opening. Sometimes there is no inside pouch.
|
|
|
Welt Pockets |
-Single welt attached to the bottom edge of the slash and flips up over the pocket to cover the opening.
-Narrow welt pockets are sometimes used on the back of pants. |
|
|
Belts |
Hold garments in place
Provide a decorative finish to some garment styles Styling includes: -Straight -Tie -String -Contoured |
|
|
Shape |
A silhouette is smaller shapes put together within the garment using seams
Loose styles- gathers at a fullnessCloser fitting- darts, stretched fabrics |
|
|
Silhouette |
outline or shape of a garment Size and shape is the first thing we see on the body.
|
|
|
Ease |
Ease does include licra or spandex in fabric
|
|
|
Shape Continued |
The use of shapes lets the designer:
-Add styling interest to the silhouette -Achieve fit -Allow for the combination of two or more fabrics -Create optical illusions through line The use of shapes lets the designer: -Create proportions within the silhouette or ensemble -Create symmetrical or asymmetrical balance --Create rhythm within the ensemble |
|
|
Shaping Devices Look at images for shaping devices on slide 7 |
Darts, Seams, Pleats, and Gathers
•Darts are used excessively in apparel •Usuallywhen you have darts and seams you have more body conscience silhouettes •Darts, seams, gathers, and pleats are all shaping devices used to make thegarment fit the body |
|
|
Shaping Methods |
How to transform flat fabric into a 3 dimensional garment -Shaping methods are required wherever the fabric of garments fits a curve of the body ( bust, abdomen, butt, shoulders, elbows) |
|
|
Darts |
Remove excess or width or length to accommodate body curves
•Darts serve as the basic shaping methodof apparel, introduce shape into the garment A Dart can originated from any seams and occur at any angle , a dart must point to the fullest part of its assigned body curve. |
|
|
French Dart |
a diagonal bust dart that originates lower than normal
|
|
|
Double Pointed Darts or Contour Darts |
-Flattering because there is a release for the bust line and hips, and a pull in the middle or more flat area
-Double pointed don’t originate from the seam, contour is floating. |
|
|
Dart Equivalents |
-Dart Equivalents also known as Dart substitutes -Something that is used for styling but is not an actual dart
-Shaped seams gores and yoks style fullness or released darts, gathers, sheering, smocking all create fullness - Bias cut pieces, pleats, godets, and gussets - Pgs 166-167 |
|
|
Dart Variation |
Pleats creating soft folds |
|
|
Shaped Seams * need to know and identify princess seams |
-Shaped seams are a common dart equivalent
-Princess seams are dart substitute seams that incorporate the bust & waist darts -YOKES – horizontal division within a garment; small, flat panel of fabric usually at the : * shoulder * waist or * midriff |
|
|
Image of Princess Seam Slide 16, read related material to ease and shaping methods |
pgs 164-171 |
|
|
Godets |
Used to add shaping |
|
|
Gussets |
Pieces of fabric set into a seam or seam intersection to provide body-conforming shape and fullness in a garment
-Triangular or diamond-shape |
|
|
Drawstrings |
Narrow tubes, cords, or strips of fabric inserted into casings in place of or in addition to elastic
|
|
|
Silhouette and Style |
-The silhouette of a garment is its OUTLINE or SHAPE.
-The STYLE of a garment or garment parts results from its silhouette & other identifying characteristics. |
|
|
Terms to Know |
BALANCE – the distribution of visual weight both horizontally & vertically within the garment
PROPORTION – refers to how well the individual garment parts relate to the whole garment EMPHASIS – requires the garment to have a clear focal point UNITY – defines how well all parts of the design work together |
|
|
A good vocabulary of style terms is necessary in all phases of apparel analysis because it enables accurate communication
The ability to use correct terminology is also important in: Designing Writing Specifications Writing Promotions Selling apparel products |
** |
|
|
Look up information about Gores and Bias Also all images for shaping methods |
** |
