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34 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Saddle fitting
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1. must not pinch, rock, or pinch at any point.
2. should be able to see open space all the way down the gullet 3. when ii am sitting on the saddle, i need to be able to fit at least 2 fingers between withers and head of saddle 4. front must be wide enough to fit comfortably w/o pinching or pressing shoulder blades. Slide hands down either side of front of saddle while rider is mounted to check is not pinching. Panels must fit back muscles evenly. Dry marks = rub spots. 2. If too low on pony's withers, too wide for back. If too narrow, will press into back muscles and hurt shoulder blades. 3. Seat of saddle should be balanced, lowest part in middle of saddle 4. Girth should have 2 spare holes above the buckles on each side when tightened; at least 1 spare below buckles 5. Stirrup leathers long enough and gave several spare holes 6. |
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Bridle fitting
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1. All bits should be about .25 inch wider than pony's mouth. Should be smooth & comfortable and not rub pony's lips.
2. Snaffle should rest high in pony's mouth so can't get tougue over it. 2 wrinkes, if full-cheek, than put ends in keepers. 3. Pelhams and kimberwicks should make 1 small wrinkle. Curb chain flat and 2 fingers between it and chin groove. lip strap in place. (normal bridle fitting from D level) |
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Other fitting--saddle pad, halter, blanket
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1. Saddle pad--2 inches all around saddle unless square pad
A correctly fitting halter is defined as having a noseband that lies half way between the corner of the lips and the projecting cheekbone, and allows no more than the width of four adult fingers between the noseband and the nosebone. at least 1 hand's with between surchingles and belly, blanket should cover horse but allow him to put head down and raise tail without difficulty, neck and shoulder areas need to allow you to comfortably run your hand between the blanket and the horse. |
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Mount's warm up
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20 m circles, figure 8's, serpentines, half circles to change direction, change of direction across diagonal
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suppling exercises
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drop & pick up stirrups, foot circles, ankle stretches, leg swings, poll & croup touches, around the world
toe touching, opposite toe touching, lying forward & sitting up, lying backward & sitting up, stirrup standing, airplane (half seat w/o hands), shoulder circles & drops, arm circles, |
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Reins
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Loose rein--loose except when give rein aid, hands check & release
Long rein--sag a little when head in correct postion |
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aids for circles
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insides leg stays close to girth, outside a little back, inside rein slightly away, outside rein controls speed
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Aids for turn on forehand
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1. Halt squarly
2. weight to inside (direction of turn) 3. slight flexion of inside rein 4. outside rien prevents forward movement & helps maintain proper bend 5. Inside leg comes back slightly to encouage hind leg to cross over 6. Outside leg on girth |
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What is conditioning and how to condition for activity of choice
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Conditioning--the process of getting a pony fit so that he can go longer and faster and work harder w/o getting tired.
Foxhunting--1. plenty of long, slow distance work. 2. Begin conditioning at least 3 months before start of season, 3. start walking trail rides and gradually riding longer & faster, adding trotting and hill work |
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How are feeds measured and weighed?
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1. measured in lbs in household or baby scale
2. Grain--use small coffee can, large can, or grain scoop 3. Find out how much grain = 1 lb and how many lbs each scoop holds 4. Hay: weigh av. size flake and know how much it takes to get 5, 10, 15 lbs |
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Describe characteristics of good and bad feed, water, and pasture
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1. Good hay smells sweet, not dusty, looks fresh w/no white or grey spots
2. Bad hay musty, moldy, moldy smell, dusty, white/gray/damp patches 3. Good grain: sweet smelling & clean, not foul smelling or blackened 4. Bad grain: foul smelling, gray/black patches or damp, dusty or moldy 5. Good water: clean, fresh, in a tub w/no sharp edges, 6. Bad water: frozen, algae or other things growing in it, in tub w/sharp edges |
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Discuess types of bedding appropriate for your area.
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Straw: drainage bedding, makes dry, comfortable bed but some pony's will eat
Shavings: absorbant + comfortable, most types suitable except black walnut which causes lamenitis. Sawdust: absorbant but can be dusty Shredded paper: absortant, inexpensive but must be bedded deeply & frequently picked out;cna be composted but tends to blow around Rubber stall mats: provide cushion, does not absorb urine so must be used with a bedding Sand/dirt: for outside, not warm but is absorbent, if pony injests can get sand colic |
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Mount's warm up
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20 m circles, figure 8's, serpentines, half circles to change direction, change of direction across diagonal
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suppling exercises
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drop & pick up stirrups, foot circles, ankle stretches, leg swings, poll & croup touches, around the world
toe touching, opposite toe touching, lying forward & sitting up, lying backward & sitting up, stirrup standing, airplane (half seat w/o hands), shoulder circles & drops, arm circles, |
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Reins
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Loose rein--loose except when give rein aid, hands check & release
Long rein--sag a little when head in correct postion |
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aids for circles
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insides leg stays close to girth, outside a little back, inside rein slightly away, outside rein controls speed
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Aids for turn on forehand
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1. Halt squarly
2. weight to inside (direction of turn) 3. slight flexion of inside rein 4. outside rien prevents forward movement & helps maintain proper bend 5. Inside leg comes back slightly to encouage hind leg to cross over 6. Outside leg on girth |
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What is conditioning and how to condition for activity of choice
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Conditioning--the process of getting a pony fit so that he can go longer and faster and work harder w/o getting tired.
Foxhunting--1. plenty of long, slow distance work. 2. Begin conditioning at least 3 months before start of season, 3. start walking trail rides and gradually riding longer & faster, adding trotting and hill work |
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Discuss types & causes of stable vices
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Cribbing: grabs solid, arches back and sucks air--nervousness or bordom
Wood chewing: could be hungry, have vit. or min. deficiency, bored Stall kicking: anxious to be fed, jelous or neighbors, or upset Pawing: excited or waiting to be fed, wanting attention Weaving: nervous |
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How are feeds measured and weighed?
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1. measured in lbs in household or baby scale
2. Grain--use small coffee can, large can, or grain scoop 3. Find out how much grain = 1 lb and how many lbs each scoop holds 4. Hay: weigh av. size flake and know how much it takes to get 5, 10, 15 lbs |
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Describe characteristics of good and bad feed, water, and pasture
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1. Good hay smells sweet, not dusty, looks fresh w/no white or grey spots
2. Bad hay musty, moldy, moldy smell, dusty, white/gray/damp patches 3. Good grain: sweet smelling & clean, not foul smelling or blackened 4. Bad grain: foul smelling, gray/black patches or damp, dusty or moldy 5. Good water: clean, fresh, in a tub w/no sharp edges, 6. Bad water: frozen, algae or other things growing in it, in tub w/sharp edges |
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Discuess types of bedding appropriate for your area.
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Straw: drainage bedding, makes dry, comfortable bed but some pony's will eat
Shavings: absorbant + comfortable, most types suitable except black walnut which causes lamenitis. Sawdust: absorbant but can be dusty Shredded paper: absortant, inexpensive but must be bedded deeply & frequently picked out;cna be composted but tends to blow around Rubber stall mats: provide cushion, does not absorb urine so must be used with a bedding Sand/dirt: for outside, not warm but is absorbent, if pony injests can get sand colic |
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Describe and give reasons for 3 types of clipping
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Strip clip--clipped away alon underside of neck and front of chest, underneath belly. just to clear hair out of areas that get sweaty 1st, does not usually need blanket, except in very cold weather
Trace clip--sides of neck, shoulders, belly clipped halfway up. clears parts that sweat the most, may or may not need blancket based on weather and how much clipped Hunter Clip-- often on hunters--body, neck, head clipped, not legs or saddle patch. yes blanket Full clip--on show horses--blancket and sometimes hood |
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Describe conditions that foster internal and external parasites, procedure for parasite control in pasture and stall magagement, ways to contol fly, bot eggs
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Manure has parasite eggs, which are drop in pasture _ horses become infested. To take care of pasture, pick up manure, frequently rotate pastures, get sheep or cattle to graze, mow, deworm regularly.
Lice: apply medicated powder. Ticks: check daily for them, remove, drop in alcohol & wash hands Flies: Keep stable area clean & free of standing water. Fly traps, repellent, mask, shade, turn out at night Bot eggs: put dab of shampoo on them, scrape off w/bot knife, sandpaper, bot bloack |
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Farrier tools and uses
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1. Pincers or shoe pullers: pliers that grip shoe and pry off; also remove nails
2. hoof timmers or nippers: nip off excess hoof wall 3. Hoof knife or drawing knife: pare away excess sole or trim frog 4. Clinch cutter or buffer: used to raise + cut clinches when removing shoes 5. Pritche: matal spire used to how hot shoe 6. Clincher: bends + flattens clinches into hoof wall 7. farrier's hammer: drives in nails 8. farrier's apron: protects farrier's legs while forging and shoeing |
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5 steps in shoeing. recognize farrier tools and know uses
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Preparation: excess hoof removed, foot leveled, balanced, & prepared.excess wall cut away with hoof trimmers;exces sole cut away w/ hoof knife, ragged parts of frog trimmed
Forging: make new shoe ro modify existing. heats & hammers into shape, in cold shoeing just bends into shape Fitting: shoe held against bottom of hoof to check fitting Nailing on: cooled, nailed on, away from sensitive part of foot Finishing: clinches nailed on w/clincher, made smooth w/rasp, any toe and quarter clips are tapped into place, edge of hoof smoothed w/rasp |
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Describe basic equipment needed for mount's safety and comfort during trailer travel
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1. Strong, properly fitting halter and strong tie rope
2. shipping boots or bandages on all legs 3. tail bandage or tail guard 4. sheet, blanket, or fly sheet 5. head protector 6. haynet & hay, water bucket, first aid kit, extra rope and chain and extra lead shank, muck bucket, rake & broom, tack |
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Describe how to treat minor wounds & why to deworm new mounts coming to barn
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1. Stop bleeding by pressing pad to wound if a lot of bood; if little blood, may stop on own
2. horse area w/cool water for 10 min. 3. Clean area w/saline solution, sterile water, or bottled water and antibacterial soap, use gauze pads and discard when soiled. clean from above wound and work down 4. Blot wound dry w/sterile gauze square or airdry 5. apply antibiotic powder or cream 6. if in place where dirt can get to it, use large sterile non-stick gauze dressing and put stable bandage over it 7. if can't be bandaged, check wound frequently to make sure stays clean. clean gently w/running water 4. |
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Measure and record pulse, temperature, and respiration of own mount at rest with assistance from examiner
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Temperature: 1. Shake thermometer until mercury is below 97 degrees. 2. Grease thermometer. Stand to one side of tail, push about 2/3 thermometer into rectum. Clip string to tail or hold firmly. After 1-2 min., withdraw, wipe clean, read. normal at rest = 100.5
Pulse: rest finger tips on facial artery inside lower jaw. Check watch + count how many in 10 sec x 6. 30-40 beats/min. normal Respiration: watch pony's flank. one in and one out is breath. count for 15 sec x 4. 8-16 usual |
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List all horse sports in USPC, Name 3 different uses of land on which you orothers ride, longe safety
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dressage, show jumping, eventing, fox hunting, games, polocrosse, quiz, tetrathon
farmland, fairgrounds, crops 1. longe in safe, level arena w.good footing 2. use right equipment, proper dress for handlers &protective boots for horse, all adjusted correctly. 3. learn how to longe correctly using exp. horse, get help from instructor, and practice handling line and whip before longing a horse 4. Hold end of line in folds. do not drag on ground. 5. stay out of kicking range when starting horse on lunging circle 6. do not longe in small circles 7. handle whip quickly, use lash in upwarddirection toward shoulder, belly,hock, don't wave whip around |
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Demonstrate a safety and tack inspection for D Pony Clubber & reason for the check (intro, martingales, breast collar/breastplate, anything else)
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Handler stands facing pony so can keep him in control & see what examiner is doing. can switch sides
Breastplate (attaches to the dee rings on your saddle, center strap attaches to girth) or breast collar (straps that attach to the off side of your girth and the near side)--a fist between it and chest, straps in keepers. room to fit hand at top of yoke and center strap slightly loose Standing martingale: attaches to noseband. can be pushed up to almost touch the throat when head in normal position, fitted w/rubber ing at chest Running martingale--rein straps on the reins, has inch of slack when head in normal position, reins straight line to bit |
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Discuss reasons for lunging. Discuss equipment necessary & safety procedures
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1. to exercise a horse that cannot be ridden. 2. to settle a horse full of energy before riding. 3. to train the horse to pay attention to voice commands + the trainer's body language. 4. to develop horse's rhythm, balance, suppleness, way of moving; 5. longing a rider on a horse improves rider's seat & position
longeline--30 ft.long, not one with chain longe whip-- about 5 ft. long longe cavesson--special headstall that gives good control w/o danger of hurting mouth snaffle bridle--can be just this w/o longe cavesson by exp. person & exp. horse. remove reins or twist & secure Protective boots or bandages--bell boots on front to protect heels, splint or tendon boots on legs, exercise bandages used by experts Saddle--optional, fasten up stirrups Surcingle--optional, band w/rings attached that is buckled around pony instead of saddle Side reins--optional, on more advanced horses to encourage correct head carriage and balance |
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Demonstrate a safety and tack inspection for D Pony Clubber & reason for the check (rider and pony)
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1 ASTM-SEI properly fitted helmet; safe footwear; 2. no gum or candy in mouth; 3. no rings earrings, or jewlry that could catch on reins; 4. no hairpins, combs, or barets that could cause injury in a fall; 5. no waist packs, long scarves, loose clothing. 6. clothing safe for weather condition
1. feet and shoes--cleaned out, shoes tight, no long toes, loose shoes, or risen clinches. notice any cuts, overreaches or interference marks 2. head--brushed clean, eyes & lips sponged, any rubs or sores on lips or chin, mane & forlock smooth under crownpiece 3. Saddle area, girth, elbows + between front legs are clean, smooth,no sores, rubs, or dirt 4. legs: selling or obvious injuries 5. Pony sound enough and in condition--if overweight, thin, out of condition, ask examiner to check |
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Demonstrate a safety and tack inspection for D Pony Clubber & reason for the check (saddle and bridle)
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1. saddle pad pulled up into gullet, no wrinkles, correctly attached to billets above buckle guard, fits pony & rider, properly balanced w./dip in middle, no weight on spine, 2-3 inch clearance at withers, condition of leather & stictching, tree not broken, safty bars open
2. stirrup leathers-- stitching, no cracks or torn holes, enough holes to adjust leathers to proper length. 3. Stirrups: .5 inch wider than boot 4. billet straps, 3 on each side, stitching & leather in good condiiton, no cracks or torn holes 5.girth: at least 2 holes above and 1 below buckles when tightened;leather, elastic, stitching, and buckles sound; no cracks, dirt, or roughness 1. condition and soundness of all leather and stitching 2. bit--right way up, correct size and adjustment, curb chain flat and correct (does not rub pony's lips) 3. cheekpeices--buckles 1-1.5 inch above eye with 1+ extra holes above buckle. 4. should be able to slip finger under bridle at any point. all strap ends buckled and in keepers 5. crownpiece and browband not rub 6. nose badn .5-1 inch below cheekbones & snug 7. fist between throatlatch and cheek 8. reins--bit fastenings for wear, reins good length (about six to eight inches slack when holding the reins correctly) |
