Basis Grade 5 Ocean Wave Notes 12/10/15

Front 1

The ______ is the highest point of a wave

Back 1

crest

Front 2

The _____ is the lowest point of a wave

Back 2

trough

Front 3

The wavelength is the _______ distance between two ______ waves (one right after the other). Can be measured crest to crest, or trough to trough.

Back 3

horizontal

adjacent

Front 4

______ ______ is the vertical distance between the waves crest and trough.

Back 4

Wave height

Front 5

______ ____ is the time between the passage of two wave crests or troughs at a fixed point.

Back 5

Wave period

Front 6

Breakers occur as deep-water waves become shallow-water waves. ______ eventually pulls the high wave crests down, causing them to crash into the ______ ______.

Back 6

Gravity

ocean floor

Front 7

Surf is the area between the ____ ____ and the ___.

Back 7

breaker zone

shore

Front 8

_______ refers to white, foaming waves with very steep crests that break in the _____ _____ before the waves get close to the shore.

Back 8

Whitecap

open ocean

Front 9

_____ are rolling waves that move in a steady procession across the ocean.

Back 9

Swells

Front 10

A Tsunami is waves that form when a ____ volume of ocean water is _____ moved up or down.

Back 10

large

suddenly

Front 11

A storm surge is a _____ rise in sea level near the _____ that is caused by strong winds from a storm, such as a ______.

Back 11

local

shore

hurricaine

Front 12

______-_____ level is the average water level of the ocean between a wave crest and trough.

Back 12

Still-water

Front 13

What is the formula for wave speed?

Back 13

Wavelength (m)

---------------------- = Wave speed (m/s)

Wave period (s)

Front 14

Deep-water waves form at depths ______ than 1/2 the wavelength.

Back 14

greater

Front 15

Shallow-water waves form at depths ______ than 1/2 the wavelength.

Back 15

less

Front 16

Longshore currents are currents that run _____ to the shore. They cause the waves to hit the shore at an _____. They are responsible for movement of ______ along a coastline.

Back 16

parallel

angle

sediment

Front 17

Name 5 causes of Tsunamis:

Back 17

1. Under water Earthquake

2. Volcanic eruptions

3. Land slides

4. Under water explosions

5. Meteorite/comet

Front 18

Back 18

Front 19

Water particles typically move in a wave in a _____.

Back 19

circle

Front 20

Most waves are generated by what force?

Back 20

wind

Front 21

The _____ and _____ the wind blows, the bigger and faster the waves become.

Back 21

longer and further

Front 22

______ and the ______ ocean contain the largest waves. The average wave height is __ meters in these areas.

Back 22

Antarctica and the Indian ocean

7

Front 23

A ______ _____ is a series of swells in the deep ocean that are _____ driven.

Back 23

wave train

wind

Front 24

A ______ wave is a very large wave with high amounts of energy. They can cause ____ ____.

Back 24

rogue

ship wrecks

Front 25

At what depth does a wave become a shallow-water wave?

Back 25

At half of the wave length

Front 26

_____ between the ____ ____ and the water causes the speed, direction and shape of waves to change as they enter shallow water.

Back 26

Friction

sea floor

Front 27

Waves topple over and break into the shore because wave energy is forced ______ causing the wave to lean ______.

Back 27

upward

forward

Front 28

_____ is the foaming sheets of water that are formed when waves ______ over each other.

Back 28

Swash

topple

Front 29

How can waves effect the shoreline (2)?

Back 29

1. Erode the shoreline

2. Create strong currents

Front 30

Tsunamis travel at ____-____ miles per hour and the average wavelength is ___-___ miles.

Back 30

500-600

60-300

Front 31

Tsunami waves can reach ___ feet as they approach the coastline.

Back 31

100

Front 32

As the Tsunami approaches the coastline, water ______ _____ from the shore.

Back 32

pulls away