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90 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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What are the 3 layers of the hair? |
Cuticle, Medula & Cortex. |
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What are the 2 types of melanin? What characteristic does each of them have? |
Pheomelanin–Light.\nEumelanin–Dark. |
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What is the lightest in the level system? The darkest? |
Lightest: 10. Darkest 1. |
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What is the NRP at each level? |
10: Pale Yellow. 9: Yellow. 8: Yellow Orange. 7: Orange. 6: Red Orange. 5–1: Red. |
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What five volumes is there for permanent hair color? List their level of lift and processing times. |
5: No lift. 20 min. 10: 1 level. 20 min. 20: 2 levels. 30 min. 30: 3 levels. 40 min. 40: 4 levels. 45 min. |
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What developers are there for deposit only? What is their processing time? |
Liquid & Creme CTA. 20 min. |
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What is the difference between a retouch refresh and retouch reestablish? |
Refresh: Pull through ends the last 10 minutes or so at the shampoo bowl emulsified with water.
Reestablish: Permanent on new growth and deposit only treatment or glossing treatment on the mids and ends. |
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How many grams are in a standard bowl of color? |
40g. 20g base color 20g color catalyst |
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What is the pure tone N/N used for? |
Maximum grey coverage. |
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What levels are considered light? |
7–10 |
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What is the ratio for ELC & Enlightener? |
1:2 |
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List the light pure tones for permanent. |
nn, yo, or, vb, bb |
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List the dark pure tones for permanent. |
nn, yo, ro, bg, bv, vr & red pure pigment |
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List the light pure tones for deposit only. |
yo, or, vb & bb |
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List the dark pure tones for deposit only. |
yo, ro, rv, bg, bv & rr |
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List the pure pigments. |
Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet. |
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What are the 5 essential oils found in Aveda hair color? |
Jojoba, babassu, coconut, castor & sunflower. |
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In deposit only hair color, what % is naturally derived? ...In permanent? |
DO: 99% Perm: 96% |
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What do we use to remove artificial pigment from the hair? |
Color cleanse. |
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IF we use enlightener on the scalp, what do we use with it? What is the formula? |
Creme booster. 30 30 60. |
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What base do we use for bright and intense formulations? |
Intense Base |
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Enlightener stops processing after how long? |
1 hour |
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What two developers are used with ELC? |
30 & 40 |
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List the pastel tones used with ELC. |
Violet, Blue & Yellow Orange. |
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List the 3 types of weaves and how many weaves are per foil. |
Strong: 2–3. Medium: 6–8 Fine: 10–12. |
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List the three types of density and what percentage of hair is in foils. |
Light: 30% 1/2 inch apart Medium: 50% 1/4–1/2 inch apart Heavy: 70% 1/8–1/4 inch apart |
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Describe a strong slice. |
3 back to back slices. |
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What volume color catalyst is used for grey coverage? |
20 vol |
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Define level and tone. |
Level: Lightness to darkness.
Tone: The characteristic of color. |
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Name 4 ways you could use universal 0n. |
Glossing treatment, make color more transulcent, add or decrease tone or create clear fashion colors. |
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To get a true fashion color what level should the hair be? |
10 |
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List different ways to use Pure Pigment. |
Add tonality to a base, increase vibrancy of pure tone and to get a true fashion color. |
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What is an alternative virgin application? |
Applying one color formula to the new growth and the next higher developer formula to the mids and ends. |
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What is barrier creme? |
Protects the guests skin from stains and/or chemical burns. |
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What is a blueprint? |
A tool used to help map out a clear plan. |
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What is density? |
How far apart the foils are placed. |
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What is effect? |
The amount of hair that goes into the foil. |
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What is hair color balancing? |
Retouch refresh or reestablish. |
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What is hair color cleansing? |
Removing artificial pigment, or tone, from the hair. |
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What is NRP? |
Natural remaining pigment of the hair, contributes as the hair lightens. |
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What is pre coloring? |
Filling the hair with the missing NRP when wanting to go 3 levels or more darker. |
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What is a strand test? |
May be needed to determine how the hair will react to the color. |
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What is a toner? |
Color formula applied after a pre lightening, double process, or whenever the hair color needs to be modified. |
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Which product has a treatment formula that actually improves the condition of the hair and can be used the same day as a perm or relaxer? |
Full Spectrum Deposit Only Color Treatment |
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Levels of lift with 40 volume & Extra Lift Pastel Blonde Series? Processing time? |
5 levels, 45 minutes. |
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Levels of lift with 30 volume & Extra Lift Pastel Blonde Series? Processing time? |
4 levels, 30 minutes. |
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What is the percentage of grey blending you will get when using deposit only? |
Up to 50%. |
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What do we use for a color cleanse to get up to 3 levels of lift? |
30g enl 30g shampure 60g 30vol |
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What are the three guest protections for coloring?
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• Drape
• Protective cream • Foils |
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How many sections the full head foil application has?
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6 sections
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What is the result of alternative full head highlight?
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Heavy highlights with a subtle natural look
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This traditional permanent wave application creates a natural, even-looking curl.
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Alpha Wrap
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About alpha wrap, Create a section down the middle of the head from the front hairline to the nape, slightly narrower than the rod you will be using. How many sections do you need for it?
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9 section
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When all the hair is wrapped, what is the next step?
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apply protective cream around the perimeter of the hairline. Lightly mist a length of coil cotton with water and place the cotton over the cream.
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wrapping technique for alpha wrap?
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90 degree elevation
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Alpha Wrap Procedure
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1. Sectioning/blocking
2. Wrapping 3. protective cream and then cotton 4. Solution application 5. Remove the saturated cotton and replace 6. Place a processing cap over the hair 7. Processing 8. Test curl after 5 minutes 9. Rinsing 10. Blotting each rod with a towel 11. Neutralizing at the shampoo bowl 12. Rinse the neutralizer with warm water and then remove the rods 13. Rinse with light conditioner |
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With this technique, half of the head is wrapped using a spiral technique while the top section is wrapped using a piggy back technique.
The result is consistent, overall curl on long hair—with lift at the scalp |
Spiral and Piggy Back Combination Wrap
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Spiral and Piggy Back Combination Wrap procedure
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Relaxing hair
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Consultation
Before relaxing a guest’s hair, discuss and/or observe: · The guest’s desired outcome · The condition of the hair · The condition of the scalp · The hair’s texture, density, elasticity and degree of curl · The results of previous chemical services · The fragile and resistant areas If you determine that the guest’s hair or skin may be damaged as a result of the chemical service, you may need to decline the service. If this is the case, you may recommend that the guest consider a non-chemical service such as braids or thermal straightening. Expectations When relaxing the hair, often the expectation is not for the hair to become fully straight. The hair will become more manageable, but it will still require styling products and styling techniques to achieve a truly straight look. In order to maintain the hair’s strength and elasticity, it’s important not to over process it. A maximum goal of 80–85% straight is a general guideline. Condition of the hair Before providing a chemical service, pay close attention to the condition of the guest’s hair. Look for these signs of hair weakness: · If the curl/wave pattern isn’t even throughout a subsection of hair, it may have been chemically processed before · The hair may be damaged from thermal styling · Lightening or permanent hair color can significantly weaken the hair Characteristics of the hair To identify the hair’s characteris- tics, consider its texture, density, elasticity and the degree of curl. Also, identify fragile and resistant areas. It’s important to determine the characteristics of the guest’s hair in order to accurately select the products you need for relaxing. Texture Texture is the feel and size of the individual strands of hair. Textures can be coarse, medium or fine. The texture of the hair helps deter- mine the product to use and the processing time needed to relax it. Coarse hair has a larger diam- eter per strand and requires a super-strength product to relax it. It’s more resistant to chemical processes so the processing time is generally longer. Medium hair often requires a medium-strength product to fully relax the hair. Generally, it processes in the manufacturer’s recommended processing time. Fine hair has smaller diameter strands. It often requires a mild- strength product to fully relax the hair. It’s less resistant to chemical processes and generally requires a shorter processing time than coarse hair. It can also be more fragile than coarser hair. Hair density Density is the number of hairs per square inch of scalp. · Thick hair requires smaller sub- sectioning · Medium hair calls for average size subsections · Thin hair can accommodate larger subsections |
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Relaxing hair 2
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Elasticity
Assessing elasticity helps deter- mine the condition of the hair and its ability to withstand chemical services. Hair has good elasticity when it does not break easily and returns when stretched. It may require a longer processing time and stron- ger processing formulas. Hair with medium elasticity is found in normal to slightly pro- cessed hair. It will break under excessive stretching and pressure. Generally, it calls for normal pro- cessing time and regular to strong processing formulas. Hair with poor elasticity is weak and breaks easily. It may be over- processed and therefore needs mild solutions, pre-conditioning and porosity balancing with oil or conditioner. This type of hair can- not withstand excessive exposure to chemicals and you may have to decline the service if the condition is extremely fragile. Degree of curl The degree of curl helps deter- mine which product should be used. Thio relaxers are only effec- tive on slightly to moderately curly hair. To straighten hair with more curl, use a hydroxide product. Condition of the scalp Examine the scalp for abrasions, cuts or irritation due to scratching or brushing. Decline to perform the service if any of these conditions exist and reschedule the appointment for later when the conditions have improved. Previous services It’s important that you know what services have previously been performed on the guest’s hair. Mixing chemicals can cause extreme damage and it is in your and your guest’s best interest that you understand exactly what has been done previously. This way, you can best advise them on whether to consider a particular service. Remembering that hair grows approximately 1⁄2” per month, you can attempt to determine how much time has passed between services. Previous chemical reformation service When the guest has had a previous service but is not sure whether it was a thio relaxer, hydroxide relaxer, a permanent wave or a reformation curl service, ask: “Was the hair straightened first and then had rods applied?” If the answer is “yes,” the guest had a permanent wave or reformation curl service and you can only proceed if you use a thio product. If the answer is “no,” the guest had a relaxer service. You need to find out if a thio product or a hydroxide product was used. Because thio and hydroxide relaxers aren’t compatible: ·If the guest had the service done at your salon, check the records · If the guest had the service done elsewhere, have them call the salon and ask what product was used for the service · If neither of these steps is possible, perform a strand test with either thio or hydroxide in a less visible area of the head. The product you use to test depends on the service desired. If you must decline the service, explain that hair treated with incompatible chemicals must grow out and be cut off before the service they want can be performed or the hair could be severely damaged. Compute the amount of time needed for new growth using and average growth rate of 1⁄2” per month. Previous color service The relationship of hair color service to chemical relaxation is also important. If the hair appears to be colored and the guest requests a relaxer or curl service and you are not sure which services have been performed previously: · Assess whether the new growth at the scalp is darker or lighter than the overall color · Ask the guest when the color service was performed · If the guest’s hair has been chemically lightened, explain that the service cannot be performed safely, especially on longer hair Hair that is colored darker and especially hair tinted lighter can only receive a reformation curl or relaxer after careful analysis. When in doubt, perform a strand test. |
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Color Applications - Retouch Reestablish Application
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When a guest has full head color with new growth appearing at the scalp area plus color that has faded 1-2 levels at the midlengths and ends, a Retouch Reestablish application will fully restore color.
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Retouch Reestablish Application procedure
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Sectioning
1. Use a comb to section the hair into four quadrants. Guest comfort and protection 2. Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. Color formula 3. Mix color formulas in small enough batches to keep the color active (approximately 40 grams). Mix more as needed. For this guest, we are using: Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color and Full SpectrumTM Deposit-Only Color Treatment formula 1: new growth · 3R/O Medium Copper Brown · +20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer formula 2: midlengths and ends · 3R/O Medium Copper Brown · +Full SpectrumTM Color Treatment Activator Outline the first quadrant 4. Begin product application with formula 1. Outline the back right quadrant along the hairline and parts, all the way around the perimeter of the quadrant. Subsectioning and product application 5. Start at the nape in the back right quadrant. Lift the quadrant up with one hand and use the other hand and the tail of a color brush to take a diagonal 1⁄4 " subsection. Clip the remaining hair away. 6. Using a color brush, thoroughly apply formula 1 to the new growth. 7. Continue in this manner, working up toward the point of distribution, taking diagonal subsections and applying formula 1 to new growth. Working upward, pivot the subsec- tions slightly toward the right ear so you will eventually finish with a vertical subsection at the end of the quadrant. 8. Move to the back left quadrant, unclip the hair and outline the quadrant with formula 1. 9. Repeat the process of taking diagonal subsections from the nape upward and applying formula 1 to new growth at the scalp area. The two back quadrants are now complete. 10. Move to the front right quad- rant. Unclip the hair and hold it up with one hand while using the other hand to outline the quad- rant with formula 1. 11. Take a vertical subsection from the point of distribution to the top of the ear and clip the rest of the hair forward. 12. Apply ample product to new growth and lay each subsection back, away from the guest’s face. Lightly drop the subsection without pushing it down against the head. Continue taking vertical subsections, applying formula 1 to the new growth and working toward the front hairline. 13. Outline the front left quadrant with formula 1 and repeat the process of taking subsections and applying product to new growth. If needed, go back and reapply protective cream along the hairline, especially if a dark color is being applied. Check product coverage 14. Starting in the back right quadrant, use gloved fingers or the tail of a color brush to lift each subsection and check to ensure thorough product coverage to all new growth. Apply more formula 1 where needed, including any areas where product may have dried. Reestablish color on midlengths and ends If the color has faded 2 levels on the midlengths and ends, color should be reestablished throughout the subsection. 15. Mix enough formula 2 to cover the remaining hair, considering its length and density. 16. Before applying formula 2 to midlengths and ends that are at the hairline or longer, apply protective cream to the neck and place foil over it. 17. Starting at the nape in the back right quadrant, lay a subsection over a gloved hand. Use the other hand to apply formula 2 to the midlength area. To as- sure coverage, overlap formula 1 already applied at the new growth, with formula 2. Recalling your blueprint assessment, either apply formula 2 up to (but not covering) porous ends or if the ends are not porous (as with freshly cut or very short hair), apply formula 2 through the ends. When applying formula 2 to midlengths and ends, be sure to turn each subsection over and generously apply product to both sides of the hair. 18. After applying formula 2, gently lay the saturated subsection on top of the protective foil covering the neck or on top of the previous subsection. 19. Repeat the process in the other three quadrants while gently laying subsections away from the guest’s face as you work. note: If the ends are left uncovered, apply product to them near the end of the processing time. Exact timing should be determined with a strand test. Strand test 20. When the processing time is complete, isolate a small amount of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe product off. Fold the hair in half, back over itself and check for color balance in level and tone. |
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Retouch Refresh Application
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When hair color needs a retouch due to new growth, and the midlengths have lost tone and up to 1 level of color—simply apply product to the new growth, process the color, and then emulsify the color through the midlengths and ends at the shampoo bowl.
This application fully restores consistent color throughout the hair. |
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Retouch Refresh Application procedure
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Guest comfort and protection
1. Apply protective cream along the hairline perimeter. Sectioning/product application 2. Follow the procedure for the Retouch Reestablish application to section the hair into four quadrants. Color formula 3. Mix the color formula you will be using. For this guest, we are using: Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color formula 1: new growth custom formula · 40 grams 5Natural Lightest Brown · 4 grams Dark Natural / Natural Pure Tone · 6 grams Dark Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · +20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer 4. Follow the procedure for the Retouch Reestablish application to apply formula 1 to new growth at the scalp area. Emulsify 5. After processing, move to the shampoo bowl and evenly spray the midlengths and ends with water. Work the water and formula 1 together and work this mixture through the midlengths and ends. Process for 2-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly; shampoo and condition as usual. |
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Virgin Lighter Application
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The Virgin Lighter full head color application transforms a guest’s natural hair color to a lighter color.
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Virgin Lighter Application procedure
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Sectioning
1. Use a comb to section the hair into four quadrants, leaving the back right quadrant free and ready for color application. Guest comfort and protection 2. Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply protective cream and foil strips to the neck. Color formula 3. After sectioning, mix the color formulas you will be using in small enough batches to keep the color fresh (approximately 40 grams). Mix more as needed. For this guest, we are using: Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color formula 1: midlengths and ends, scalp area, custom formula · 40 grams 9Natural Very Light Blonde · 3 grams Light Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · 3 grams Light Orange / Red Pure Tone ·+20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer Subsectioning and product application 4. Begin at the nape in the back right quadrant. 5. Take a 1⁄4” diagonal subsection from the nape to the center part and lay the subsection over a gloved hand. 6. Use the other hand to apply formula 1, avoiding the scalp area and working from the midlengths through the ends. 7. When applying formula 1 to midlengths and ends, be sure to turn the hair over and generously apply product to both sides of the subsection. 8. After applying formula 1, gently lay the saturated subsection away from the guest’s face. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, lay the subsection on top of protective foil covering the neck. 9. Work from the nape to the final subsection at the top of the ear. As you work upward, pivot the subsections slightly toward the ear, so you will eventually finish with a vertical subsection at the end of the quadrant. 10. Repeat this process in the back left quadrant. The back quadrants are now complete with approximately 1⁄2" at the scalp left untouched by product. 11. Now move to the front right quadrant, take a vertical subsec- tion from the top of the ear to the point of distribution and apply formula 1 to the midlengths and ends. 12. Work toward the front hairline, laying each subsection back and away from the guest’s face. 13. Repeat this process in the front left quadrant. Product application to scalp area When formula 1 has been on the midlengths and ends for half of the manufacturer’s recommended processing time, apply product to the scalp area. 14. Mix fresh formula 1. 15. In the back right quadrant, start the scalp area application by out- lining the quadrant along all parts. Lift hair up to reach the nape and behind the ear. To ensure thorough coverage, overlap the previously applied product with the freshly mixed formula 1. note: Body position is important. Stand parallel to the section you are working on. Do not pull down on the hair. 16. Starting at the nape, use the tail of a color brush to separate a 1⁄4 " diagonal subsection. 17. Apply formula 1 to the scalp area, overlapping the previously applied product and reapplying color all the way down the subsec- tion. 18. Lay finished subsections away from the guest’s face. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, lay subsections on protective foil placed on the neck. 19. Move to the back left quadrant and repeat the process. Remember to outline the quadrant first. If a subsection is too wide, divide it in half for control. The back quadrants are now complete. 20. Outline the front right quadrant with formula 1 at the scalp area. 21. Take a vertical subsection from the top of the ear to the point of distribution and apply formula 1 to the scalp area. Overlap previously applied product with freshly mixed formula 1 and refresh all the way down the subsection. Turn it over and apply product to both sides, then lay it back gently, away from the guest’s face. Continue taking vertical subsections, working toward the front hairline and lay- ing the rest of the hair to the side. Apply formula 1 to the scalp area and then thoroughly reapply to the midlengths and ends. 22. Repeat this process in the front left quadrant. 23. Starting in the back right quadrant, use gloved fingers or the tail of a color brush to lift each subsection and check to ensure thorough product coverage. Check for voids or areas where the product may have dried. Apply more product where needed. Strand test 24. When the recommended processing time is complete, check color development. Isolate a small amount of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the product. Fold the hair in half, back over itself and observe the color development. Look for color balance through the strand. |
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Virgin Darker Application
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This full head color application transforms a guest’s natural hair to a darker color.
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Virgin Darker Application procedure
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Sectioning
1. Use a comb to section the hair into four quadrants. Guest comfort and protection 2. Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. Color formulas 3. Mix the color formula you will be using in small enough batches to keep the color fresh (approximate- ly 40 grams). Mix more as needed, keeping in mind that color stays fresh for about 45 minutes. For this guest, we are using: Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color formula 1: scalp area, midlengths and ends, custom formula · 40 grams 3Natural Medium Brown · 6 grams Dark Red / Orange Pure Tone · 2 grams Dark Blue / Green Pure Tone · +10 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer Outline the first quadrant 4. With formula 1, outline the back right quadrant along the hairline and parts. Lift the hair up to allow easy access and applica- tion behind the ear and along the hairline. Subsectioning and product application 5. Start at the nape in the back right quadrant. Lift the hair up and use the tail of a color brush to take a diagonal 1⁄4 inch subsection. Clip the remaining hair away. tip: If the ends are porous and left uncovered, apply product to them toward the end of the pro- cessing time. Performing a strand test will determine the timing for application to porous ends. 6. Using a color brush, apply for- mula 1 to the scalp area. 7. Before moving on to the next subsection, immediately apply formula 1 to the midlengths. 8. Refer to your blueprint and how you assessed the condition of the ends to decide when to apply product. If the ends are overly dry and porous, apply formula 1 up to (but not covering) the ends. If the ends are not porous (as with freshly cut or very short hair) or if a hair cut with follow the color application, immediately apply formula 1 through the ends. 9. Lay the subsection over a gloved hand. Use the other hand to apply formula 1. Be sure to turn each subsection over and generously apply formula 1 to both sides of the hair. 10. After applying product, gently lay the saturated subsection on top of the protective foil covering the neck or on top of the previous subsection. 11. Continue taking diagonal subsections. Working upward, pivot the subsections slightly to- ward the ear so you will eventually finish with a vertical subsection at the end of the quadrant. Be sure to turn each subsection over and generously apply product to both sides of the hair. 12. Move to the back left quadrant and repeat the process. The two back quadrants are now complete. 13. Move on to the front right quadrant. Unclip the hair and hold it up with one hand while using the other hand to outline the quadrant with formula 1. 14. Take a vertical subsection from the ear to the point of distribution and continue this process, working toward the front hairline. 15. Apply formula 1 to the scalp area of each subsection. Then immediately apply through the midlengths. 16. Repeat the process in the front left quadrant. Check product coverage 17. Starting in the back right quadrant, use gloved fingers or the tail of a color brush to lift each subsection and check to ensure thorough product coverage. Check for voids or areas where the product may have dried. Apply more product where needed. Application to porous ends If porous ends were left uncovered, a strand test will help determine timing for product application. 18. Mix a new batch of formula 1. 19. Starting in the back right quadrant, lay each subsection over a gloved hand and apply fresh product to both sides of the midlengths, working down through the porous ends. This overlapping technique helps assure even coverage throughout the subsection. 20. Repeat this process in the other three quadrants, applying color to all porous ends. Strand test 21. To check color development, isolate a small amount of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the product. Fold the hair in half, back over itself and check for evenness of color deposit. |
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Lightening and Toning Application
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When a guest desires a very light blonde color or more than five levels of lift, lightening and toning is required.
This is a double process blonde service: first, the lightener is applied and then, after shampooing, the toner is applied. |
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Lightening and Toning Application procedure
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Guest comfort and protection
1. Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin around the entire head along the hairline perimeter. Sectioning 2. Use a comb to section the hair into four quadrants. Color formulas 3. Mix product in small enough batches to keep the lightener fresh. Mix more as needed. For this guest, we are using: EnlightenerTM Powder Lightener and Full SpectrumTM Deposit-Only Color Treatment formula 1: midlengths and ends, scalp area lightening formula · 30 grams EnlightenerTM Powder Lightener · 30 grams EnlightenerTM Creme Booster · +60 grams 20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer formula 2: scalp area, midlengths and ends custom toning formula · 30 grams ØN Colorless Treatment · 10 grams 10Natural Lightest Blonde · +40 grams Full SpectrumTM Color Treatment Activator Subsectioning and product application to midlengths and ends 4. Start in the back right quadrant. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply protective cream to the guest’s neck and cover it with foil. Take a 1⁄4" diagonal subsection and lay it over a gloved hand. 5. Use the other hand to apply formula 1, avoiding the scalp area and working from midlengths through the ends. Turn the hair over and generously apply formula 1 to both sides of the subsection. Use enough product to thoroughly saturate the hair while working neatly. note: Thorough saturation is vital to ensure even lift throughout the subsection. If necessary, take thinner subsections. 6. After applying formula 1, gently lay the saturated subsection away. With long hair, lay the subsection on top of the protective foil covering the neck. 7. Working upward, pivot the subsections slightly toward the ear, so you will eventually finish with a vertical subsection at the end of the quadrant. When finished with the quadrant, go back through and check for thorough saturation of each subsection. Apply more product as needed. note: If the ends are porous, wait and apply product at the end of the process. If the ends are not porous, apply product immediately. 8. Repeat this process in the back left quadrant. The back quadrants are now complete with the scalp area left untouched by product. 9. Move to the front right quadrant and take a vertical subsection from the ear to the center part. If the subsection is too wide, divide it in half for greater control. 10. Work toward the front hairline, applying formula 1 thoroughly to the midlengths and ends and laying each subsection back and away from the guest’s face. When finished with the quadrant, go back and check for thorough saturation. Apply more product, as needed. 11. Repeat this process in the front left quadrant. Strand test 12. At this point, using the Natural Remaining Pigment chart as a guide, check to see if the midlengths are half-way to the desired level of lightening. Isolate a small amount of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the product and observe the level and tone. Check for sufficient lightening and even results through the strand. If sufficient lightening has not occurred, reapply fresh formula 1 to the strand, continue processing and recheck frequently. Product application to the scalp area 13. Mix a new batch of formula 1. 14. In the back right quadrant, start the scalp area application by out- lining the quadrant along all parts. To ensure thorough coverage, over- lap the previously applied product with the freshly mixed formula 1. 15. Starting at the nape, use the tail of a color brush to gently separate a diagonal subsection. 16. Apply formula 1 to the scalp area, then refresh the product all the way down the subsection while working it into the hair. Lift hair up to reach the nape and behind the ear. 17. Lay finished subsections away from the guest’s face and lay lower subsections on protective foil placed on the neck. 18. Move to the back left quadrant and repeat the process. Remember to outline the quadrant first. If a subsection is too wide, divide it in half for greater control. The back quadrants are now complete. 19. Outline the front right quadrant with formula 1 at the scalp area. 20. Separate a vertical subsection from the point of distribution to the ear and apply formula 1 to the scalp area. 21. Overlap previously applied product with freshly mixed formula 1 and refresh the product all the way down the subsection. 22. Turn it over and apply formula 1 to both sides then lay it back gently, away from the guest’s face. Continue this process, working through the quadrant. 23. Repeat this process in the front left quadrant. Strand test 24. During processing, isolate a small amount of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the product. Fold the hair in half, back over itself and observe the color development. Check frequently for the desired level of lift and NRP. Reapply lightener to the strand if you are continuing the process. Rinse and shampoo 25. When the desired stage of lightening has been achieved, rinse and gently shampoo twice. Do not condition the hair before toning. Toner application at the scalp area 26. After shampooing, towel dry excess moisture from the hair and leave it slightly damp. note: The hair’s natural pig- ment will seem to lighten very quickly at first. Remember, this is the eumelanin (granu- lar) pigment lifting and the lift slows down significantly as hair reaches the orange or yellow/or- ange natural remaining pigment (NRP). This is the pheomelanin 27. Reapply protective cream along the guest’s hairline. 28. Use a wide tooth comb to divide the damp hair into four quadrants. 29. Begin in the back right quadrant and outline it with formula 2. 30. Take diagonal subsections from the nape, working up through the quadrant and applying formula 2 on both sides of the part at the scalp area. 31. Move to the back left quadrant and repeat the process. 32. Move to the front right quadrant and outline it with formula 2. 33. Take a vertical subsection from the point of distribution to the right ear. Apply ample product to the scalp area. 34. Continue in this manner, working toward the front hairline. 35. Repeat this process on the front left quadrant. Toner application to midlengths and ends 36. In the back quadrants, go through the existing subsections and apply ample product to the midlengths and ends. Apply for- mula 2 to both sides and overlap the product already applied at the scalp. 37. In the front quadrants, take vertical subsections and follow the established pattern while applying formula 2 to midlengths and ends. Strand test 38. Perform a strand test to determine processing time which can range from 1 minute to 30 minutes. |
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Full Head Foil Application
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The six basic sections are used here for a full head foil application. The effect can be subtle or dramatic, depending on the width of the subsections and the number of weaves taken.
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Full Head Foil Application procedure
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Color formulas
1. Mix the color formula(s) you will be using. For this guest, we are using: Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color Formula 1: in foil packet · 9B/B Very Light Intense Ash Blonde · +40 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer Formula 2: in foil packet · 7Natural Medium Blonde · +20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer FPO Sectioning 2. Section the hair into six basic sections. Subsectioning/product and foil packet application Sections 1 & 2 3. Start in section 1 in the back right. Following the natural hair- line, take a diagonal subsection. The amount in each subsection will vary depending on hair texture and the desired look. note: When placing foils near the hairline, through the point of distribution or along parts related to the guest’s hair style, a fine effect is recommended for a more natural look as the hair grows out. FPO 4. Brace your little finger against the guest’s scalp for stability. Apply tension to the subsection and use the end of a metal tail comb to weave in and out along the suraf ce of the subsection at the scalp. Pinch and separate the woven hair and lift it so a foil can be inserted underneath, close to the scalp. Foil/product application 5. Straighten the edge of a foil sheet to stiffen the edge, if necessary (ribboning). Place the edge of the foil against the scalp, in the part. The woven hair to be colored should be on top of the foil and the rest of the subsection underneath. 6. Dip the hair color brush into formula 1 and scoop product onto the brush tip. Place a hand under the foil and use it to keep the foil near the scalp and to support product application. Start at the midlengths and brush formula 1 down to the ends. Return to the midpoint of the subsection and apply formula 1, moving toward the scalp. Stay at least1/16" away from the edge of the foil. Avoid over-saturating the scalp area as this may cause seepage as the color processes. Foil folding 7. Crease and fold the foil in half. Then fold again, leaving the foil about 1⁄2" from the top. This allows for easy removal and keeps the top edge close to the scalp. Continued application in section 1. 8. Take another diagonal subsection in section 1. Weave highlights and apply formula 2 in a foil packet. Take a total of 3-5 diagonal foil packets and alternate formulas, depending on the guest’s hair, head shape, and the desired result. Leave the rest of the hair free. 9. Repeat this process in section 2. tip: Take care not to pull the foil packet away from the head as you fold. This can cause color to seep onto the scalp. Make sure the side edges of the foil line up with each other. Use the tail or spine of the comb to crease the side edges of the packet vertically and fold them inward. 10. After combining the two subsections left free, you are now left with a triangular- shaped section. Take horizontal subsections across the triangle and alternate formulas 1 and 2 in foil packets. Foil placement can vary in sections 1 and 2, depend- ing on the guest’s neckline and density of hair. Sections 3 & 4 11. Move to the front right lower section. Take a diagonal subsection, working with the guest’s natural hairline. Leave some hair free along the hairline. Weave highlights and alternate formulas 1 and 2 in foil packets. 12. Continue taking diagonal subsections, working away from the front hairline toward the occipital. note: If a diagonal subsec- tion is too wide to maintain tension, divide it in half and place side-by-side foils. 13. The section will narrow as you near the point of distribution. When the subsections become narrower than the width of a folded foil, leave the remaining hair free. 14. Repeat this process in the front left lower section. 15. By leaving the last subsection free in sections 3 and 4, a “V” shaped subsection is formed. Clip it away for now. This forms the lower half of a diamond. You will place foils in this section last. Sections 5 & 6 16. Start at the front hairline in section 5 and take a diagonal subsection, using the natural hair- line as a guide. Weave highlights and alternate formulas 1 and 2 in foil packets. Remember to take fine weaves along the hairline where the hair is naturally finer in texture. 17. Continue to work toward the point of distribution while pivoting subsections slightly along the natural contour of the head. Leave the last subsection free and clip it away. 18. Repeat this process in section 6. The Diamond 19. Because the last subsections in sections 3-6 have been left free, a diamond-shaped section is formed. 20. Start on the bottom right edge of the diamond and take a diagonal subsection. Weave high- lights, and alternate formulas 1 and 2 in foil. Repeat this process, working diagonally across the diamond. Guest comfort and protection 21. For guest comfort during processing, bend the foil packets back away from the face. Strand test 22. Start processing when all product has been applied in foil packets. To check processing progress, open a foil packet in the last section where foils were applied. Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the product. Fold the hair in half, back over itself and observe the color level and tone. Check packets containing hair color according to the manufacturer’s recommended processing time. If a lightener has been used, check packets frequently and remove when the desired level of lift is reached. |
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Partial Head Foil Application
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A partial highlight or lowlight technique may be the ideal solution when your guest does not desire a full head foil.
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Partial Head Foil Application procedure
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Sectioning
1. Begin with the guest’s natural part in place, then part from the point of distribution to the top of the right ear and clip the hair forward. Repeat this process on the left side. At the point of distribution, take an equal amount of hair from either side of the center part to create a rectangular section. For this guest it is 2” x 3”. Unclip the right front section and part from the recession area back to the ear-to-ear part, along the parietal ridge. Twist and clip the hair above it for control. Then twist and clip the hair below. Repeat in the left front section. Unclip the front upper sections. Create a rectangular shaped section in the center front. For this guest, the rectangle is 1 inch wide and 2 inches long. Twist and clip it in place. Next, twist and clip the upper right and left sections in place. Color formula 2. Mix the color formula(s) you will be using. For this guest, we are using: Formula 1: In foil packet Strong Formula · 40 grams 9Natural Light Blonde · 6 grams Light Violet / Blue Pure Tone · +30 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer Formula 2: In foil packet · EnlightenerTM Powder Lightener · +10 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer Subsectioning/product/ foil packet application 3. Begin by weaving along the part just below the rectangular-shaped section. Continue working up through the rectangle, alternating a medium effect, medium density weave using formula 1. With a fine effect, fine density slice using formula 2. Leave the last subsection free. Move to the right front lower section. Using the natural hairline as a guide, take a diagonal subsection behind the hairline. Weave a fine highlight near the face where the hair is finer and apply formla 1. In the second diagonal subsection, create a slice and apply formula 2. Continue to alternate color formulas. Repeat this process in the left front lower section. 4. Move to the right front upper section and repeat the process. Half-way through this section, following the natural fall of the hair, start taking horizontal subsections, parallel to the center part. Apply product and foils, working up to the center part. 5. Unclip the rectangular section along the front hairline and fold the foils in the previous sections away for better access. Take a fine, horizontal subsection, fol- lowing the natural shape of the hairline. Take a slice and apply formula 1 in a foil packet. Directly behind that slice, with no hair left in between, take a second slice and apply formula 2 in a foil. Then take a third slice using formula 2 for a strong effect. We have now created three back-to-back slices. Move to the left front upper section and follow the same pattern used in the right front upper section, alternating formulas 1 and 2. Start processing when all product has been applied. |
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Color Correction - color cleanse
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Color Cleansing removes artificial color from a guest’s hair.
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Color Cleansing Technique
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Sectioning
Section the hair into four quad- rants and clip for control and neat- ness. If the guest wears a fringe, divide it down the center and include it in the front quadrants. Guest comfort and protection Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply protective cream on the guest’s neck and cover it with foil. Color Cleansing Mixtures Mix the listed ingredient with 1 scoop/30 grams of lightener and 1 oz./30 grams of shampoo. To remove tone: 1 oz./30 grams hot water To lighten 1 level: 1 oz./30 grams 10 volume developer To lighten 2 levels: 1 oz./30 grams 20 volume developer To lighten 3 or more levels: 1 oz./30 grams 30 volume developer For this guest we are using: EnlightenerTM Powder Lightener formula 1: hair color cleansing Lighten Two Levels Formula · 30 grams EnlightenerTM Powder Lightener · 30 grams ShampureTM Shampoo · +30 grams 20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer Subsectioning/product application Do not outline the quadrant with product. Do not apply cleansing formula to natural hair. 1. Start in the back right quadrant at the nape and take diagonal subsections. 2. Apply formula 1 from mid- lengths to ends but leave new growth (if present) uncovered. The idea is to start where the most hair color build-up exists and to apply product only where there is hair color, while avoiding any natural hair. Apply formula 1 on both sides of the subsection. 3. Working upward, pivot the subsections slightly toward the ear. Divide wide subsections for greater control. 4. To protect new growth from the color cleansing product, lift the hair and apply cotton coil at the new growth area between subsec- tions. 5. Repeat this process in the back left quadrant. 6. When the entire back of the head is complete, go back through each subsection and reapply fresh product formula 1 as needed. Spread each subsection with your fingers and look for darker areas that need more product applica- tion or areas that have dried out. Gently work the product down the subsection. Take care to keep the cuticle in tact by working down- ward only, not up or across. The product should start to lather and emulsify at this point. caution: Thorough sham- ! pooing is essential for this technique. Blow drying a small section of hair prior to recol- oring will allow you to feel if product has been inadvertently left on the hair. If so, shampoo until all traces of product have been removed. Strand test 7. Perform a strand test on the back quadrants to determine when the hair has reached the desired level of NRP. You may need to shampoo the back before moving to the front quadrants. 8. Move to the front right quad- rant. To cover and protect the skin, apply a foil strip over the protec- tive cream and the ear. 9. Take horizontal subsections, starting at the top of the ear and working upward. Again, apply formula 1 to the midlengths and ends while leaving new growth uncovered. 10. Apply cotton coil at the new growth area between subsections. 11. Move to the front left quadrant and repeat the process. 12. When the front of the head is complete, go back through each front subsection and reapply product as needed. 13. Perform a strand test to deter- mine when the front quadrants have reached the desired level of NRP. Shampoo the entire head thoroughly. The hair has been cleansed of pre- viously-applied color and is ready for a new color application. 14. For this guest, to establish new color, apply formula 2 using an Alternative Virgin Lighter applica- tion – applying first to the new growth, then immediately through the midlengths and ends. All-over color formula Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color Formula 2: New growth, Midlengths and ends · 7Natural Medium Blonde · +20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer |
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PreColoration Technique |
PreColoration is essential when the guest desires a color that is three or more levels darker than the existing colored hair. It provides an initial base of color that replaces the Natural Remaining Pigment (NRP).
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PreColoration Technique procedure
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Sectioning
1. Use a comb to section the hair into four quadrants. Create a center part from the front hairline to the nape. Then, part from the point of distribution to the ear on each side. Twist and clip each quadrant in place. Guest comfort and protection 2. Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. 3. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply protec- tive cream to the guest’s neck and cover it with foil. Color formulas 4. Mix the PreColoration formula you are using. PreColoration formulas can be made from demi-permanent or permanent hair color. Identify the guest’s natural level. Identify the level and tone of the colored hair. Determine the desired level and tone. Use the PreColoration Chart as a guideline to determine which formula to use. For this guest, we are using: Full SpectrumTM Deposit-Only Color Treatment and Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color Formula 1: PreColoration: · 40 grams 8Natural Light Blonde · 3 grams Light Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · 3 grams Light Orange / Red Pure Tone · +Full SpectrumTM Deposit-Only Color Treatment Creme Activator Formula 2: Re-Color: · 8Y/O Light Golden Blonde · +20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer 2. Apply protective cream to the guest’s skin along the hairline perimeter. 3. If the hair length is at the hairline or longer, apply protec- tive cream to the guest’s neck and cover it with foil. Color formulas 4. Mix the PreColoration formula you are using. PreColoration formulas can be made from demi-permanent or permanent hair color. Identify the guest’s natural level. Identify the level and tone of the colored hair. Determine the desired level and tone. Use the PreColoration Chart as a guideline to determine which formula to use. For this guest, we are using: Full SpectrumTM Deposit-Only Color Treatment and Full SpectrumTM Protective Permanent Creme Hair Color Formula 1: PreColoration: · 40 grams 8Natural Light Blonde · 3 grams Light Yellow / Orange Pure Tone · 3 grams Light Orange / Red Pure Tone · +Full SpectrumTM Deposit-Only Color Treatment Creme Activator Formula 2: Re-Color: · 8Y/O Light Golden Blonde · +20 Volume Color CatalystTM Creme Developer 5. Apply formula 1 to dry, unwashed hair. Begin by apply- ing to the lightest area, taking 1⁄4” subsections. Apply product only to hair that is 3 or more levels lighter than the desired end result. 6. Process for 20 minutes. Strand test 7. During processing, isolate a small amount of hair. Use a dry towel to gently wipe off the product. Fold the hair in half, back over itself and check for the desired result. Re-color 8. When the desired result has been achieved, rinse product thoroughly from hair, towel dry and apply formula 2. Process according to manufacturer’s directions. |
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Re-color
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When the desired result has been achieved, rinse product thoroughly from hair, towel dry and apply formula 2.
Process according to manufacturer’s directions. |
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Tonal cleanse - to remove tone only
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30g enlightener powder
30g detoxifier shampoo 30g hot water |
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Color cleanse - to remove artificial color only
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30g enlightener powder
30g detoxifier shampoo 30g c/c |
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Alpha Wrap permanent wave
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This traditional permanent wave application creates a natural, even-looking curl.
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Alpha wrap (9 section) wave procedure
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Sectioning/blocking
Shampoo and rinse the hair us- ing very light manipulations to avoid over-stimulating the scalp. Detoxify the hair if you notice build-up. Section the hair while it is still wet. 1. Create a section down the middle of the head from the front hairline to the nape by taking equal amounts of hair from either side of a center part. The section should be slightly narrower than the length of the perm rod you will use. Hold the perm rod against the head to judge the proper width of the section. 2. For this guest, separate the center section into thirds for man- ageability and clip each subsec- tion away. The side sections may also be clipped away for further manegability or combed straight down and out of the way. There is no need to section the sides at this time. 3, Start at the front hairline. Spray the section with water, if needed. Using the tail of a plastic tail comb, take a horizontal blocking that is the diameter of the rod you are using. 4. Comb the hair from the scalp through the ends so it is smooth and you create even tension. Comb both the top and the under- side of the blocking. 5. Evenly spread the hair between the index and middle fingers of your subordinate hand. Do not converge the ends. Wrapping End papers 6. Place the first end paper at the midlengths, at the front of the blocking, which is the side away from you. 7. Still holding the hair and the end paper, place another paper on the underside of the hair. 8. Secure the end papers with the index and middle finger of your dominant hand and slide the end papers just past the ends of the hair. Wrapping 9. Pick up a rod (without letting go of the comb) with the fastener on the side of your dominant hand. 10. Place the rod on the side close to you at the top of the end paper. Roll the hair on the rod. Maintain even tension and a 90 degree elevation. Keep the hair evenly distributed on the rod. This helps assure the hair will absorb an even amount of solution. Secure the fastener across the top of the rod. 11. Repeat this procedure for the next blocking, directly behind the first. Comb both the top and the underside of the blocking. Take care not to converge the ends. You may alternate rod sizes or wrap with the same rod size through- out. The size of the blocking will be the diameter of the rod you are using. 12. Apply a series of rods in this manner, working toward the crown. Place two picks for every two rods. To avoid tension on the hair, slide the picks under the fasteners at the outer edge of the rod. 13. Keep adjusting the guest’s head position as you wrap so you are al- ways working directly in front of the blocking you are wrapping. This will help you maintain a 90 degree elevation as you reach the nape. 14. In the nape you may use shorter rods with the same diameter, if necessary, to accommodate nar- rower sectioning. Continue to place two picks for every two rods. 15. Move to the right side of the head. Visualize two, rod-sized sections, sitting side-by-side. Start with the section in the back and take a horizontal blocking. Place end papers and a rod. 16. Place the second rod next to the first one on the same horizon- tal line at the front hairline. Hair that does not fit in the blocking may be left out, this hair will be wrapped later. 17. Continue to alternate rod sizes and placement throughout the side of the head. Place two picks for every two rods. 18. Wrap the blockings along the face vertically. 19. Repeat the process on the left side of the head. Guest comfort and protection/solution application 20. When all the hair is wrapped, apply protective cream around the perimeter of the hairline. Lightly mist an appropriate length of coil cotton with water and, starting at the front hairline, place the cotton over the cream. Tuck the ends together at the nape. 21. If the hair has dried, lightly mist it with water before applying the perm solution. 22. Using an applicator bottle, begin at the crown and work down to the nape. Thoroughly saturate all rods with solution. Apply to the top and middle of each rod. 23. Thoroughly saturate all rods with solution. Apply to the top and middle of each rod. Guest comfort and protection 24. Remove the saturated cotton and replace it with lightly misted cotton. Apply more protective cream first, if needed. 25. Place a processing cap over the hair if it is recommended. Make sure all rods are inside the cap and the plastic does not touch the guest’s skin. Processing 26. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for the processing procedure and time. On virgin hair, the average processing time is about 20 minutes. Test curl 27. Always take the first test curl after five minutes. Lift a side of the cap away so you can reach the curl you want to test. Do not remove the plastic cap completely as this will allow heat to escape. 28. Remove the picks and undo a rod’s fastener. Gently unwind the rod while holding the remain- ing hair against the rod with your thumbs. Turn the rod away from you and let the hair fall into an “S” pattern. 29. Look for an “S” shape that separates and duplicates the diameter of the rod. 30. If the hair is not fully pro- cessed, rewind the rod and wait another five minutes. Check a dif- ferent curl every five minutes until processing is complete. Rinsing 31. After processing, take your guest to the shampoo bowl and rinse thoroughly with warm water. Use moderate water pressure and hold the nozzle close to the rods. You may use a towel to protect your guest’s face during rinsing, neutralizing and rinsing again. Blotting 32. After thoroughly rinsing the hair, blot each rod with a towel, squeezing each rod to remove moisture. Then blot each indi- vidual rod with a paper towel. Use a dry area of the towel each time you blot and take a new one as needed. Neutralizing 33. Still at the shampoo bowl, use an applicator bottle to apply neutralizing solution. Follow the same system used to apply the perm solution. Allow the neutralizer to remain on the hair for 5 minutes. 34. Rinse the neutralizer using luke-warm water. 35. Remove the rods and dispose of the end papers as you take them out of the hair. 36. Apply a light conditioner and rinse. 37. Rinse the rods and remove them from the shampoo bowl. |
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Spiral permanent procedure
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Sectioning/blocking
Shampoo and rinse the hair using very light manipulations to avoid over-stimulating the scalp. Detoxify the hair if you notice build-up. Section the hair while it is still wet. 1. Create a center part from the front hairline to the nape. 2. In the back right at the nape, create a horizontal part from the center part to the middle of the ear. Clip the hair above it up and away. 3. Repeat this process on the left side. 4. Divide the back right subsection horizontally to create blockings. Wrapping 5. Comb the hair, place end papers and wrap the rod to the scalp. 6. Place two picks for every two rods. 7. Repeat this process on left side. Spiral sectioning/ blocking 8. Create another horizontal part across the back of the head, just above the previous section. The diameter of the rod will determine the size of the section. 9. At the right ear, take a vertical blocking, the diameter of the rod. Spiral wrapping 10. Comb the hair and hold it at a low (approximately 45 degree) elevation while wrapping the rod. 11. Apply a single end paper and fold it lengthwise-- the hair should be placed in the fold of the end paper. Slide the end paper down to cover the ends. 12. Hold the rod vertically with the fastener on top. Begin wrapping as close to the open end of the rod as possible upward. Rotate the rod 1-1/2 to 2 circular rotations, then continue to spiral the hair on the rod. Secure the rod in place. As the rod spirals, distribute the hair evenly across the length of the rod and fasten it in place. Use the entire rod when you wrap, spi- raling the hair from one end to the other. The rod will be positioned below the horizontal part. 13. Continue this process, work- ing from right to left and placing spiral-wrapped rods across this section. Remember that each rod is wrapped in the same direction. 14. Working from right to left, take vertical blockings, apply end papers and spiral the hair onto the rods as usual. 15. Continue working up the head in this manner until you reach the parietal ridge. There is no need to place picks on spiral wraps. Piggy Back sectioning 16. At the front hairline, create a center section by taking equal amounts of hair from either side of the center part. The section’s width should be slightly less than the width of a perm rod. There will now be two remaining sections on either side of the head. For this guest we are transitioning to the Piggy Back Wrap technique beginning at the parietal ridge. Piggy Back wrapping 17. Start in the center section at the front hairline and work toward the point of distribution. The first rod is often wrapped traditionally, based on the length of hair in this area, in order to provide maximum curl. 18. Place the rod beneath the middle of the strand. Holding the rod with your dominant hand, wind the rod to the scalp, holding and rotating the hair ends as the rod rotates. Then, secure the band. 19. Apply a single end paper, folded lengthwise, to the hair ends. Wrap this rod in the op- posite direction of the first rod. The second rod sits on top of the first. Pick the two rods together. Continue in this manner, working through the center top section. 20. Move to the right front section and visualize two side-by side rows of rods. 21. Continue in this manner through this section, placing picks as you work. 22. Repeat this process in the left front section. Guest comfort and protection 23. Apply protective cream and lightly misted cotton along the hairline to protect the skin from perm solution. Processing 24. Apply solution. If the manu- facturer’s instructions call for a processing cap, apply it after the solution. 25. Process, test, rinse, blot and neutralize. |
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Virgin Relaxer Application
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To permanently reduce curl, a chemical service is required. Hair that has never been relaxed before requires a virgin application. The goal is to create hair that is much straighter, but not completely straightened. A slight curl is desirable and many looks can be achieved through styling.
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Virgin Relaxer Application procedure
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Sectioning
1. Section dry hair into four quadrants. Sectioning and application procedures vary widely from stylist to stylist. Guest comfort and protection 2. Apply protective product to the scalp, beginning in the back right quadrant. Take 1/8 to 1/4 inch subsections to accomplish this. If you miss areas, there is potential for scalp irritation. 3. Apply protective cream around the hairline and on the top and back of the ears. Subsectioning/product application Work quickly as you apply the relaxer. Application time should not exceed 10 minutes. Relaxer product is often applied last to the nape and front hairline since the scalp in these areas tends to be sensitive and the hair is some- times more fragile. 4. Redivide the hair into quadrants. 5. Isolate fragile hair along the nape and front hairline if identified in the consultation. These areas tend to process faster and product will be applied to the isolated areas last. 6. Starting in the back right quadrant, take a diagonal subsection just below the occipital. Subsections should be fine enough to ensure thorough product coverage and saturation. 7. Apply a generous amount of product to the tip of the applicator brush so you can lay product down on the subsection rather than vigorously brushing it on. Apply the product as close to the scalp as possible without applying it directly to the scalp or stimulating the scalp in any way. Work the product gently through the midlengths and down to, but not through, the porous ends, as determined in the consultation. 8. Work up the head to the top of the back right quadrant. As you work up the head, the subsections will widen. Divide these wider subsections in half for control. Hold them “T” to the partings and avoid converging the subsections. This will ensure an even application from the scalp up to the porous ends. 9. Repeat this process in the back left quadrant, the right front quad- rant, and the left front quadrant. Use vertical subsections in the front quadrants. 10. Return to apply product in the back right quadrant along the nape. Repeat the diagonal subsec- tions, working up to the previously applied area. 11. Repeat this process in the back left quadrant along the nape. 12. Finally, apply product along the front hairline, beginning in the right front section, and ending in the left front. Recheck 13. Go back and inspect the subsections for thorough product application. Apply product to any unsaturated areas. Smooth the hair 14. Using the applicator brush, smooth the hair down the length of the subsection and through the ends. As you smooth, check prod- uct application and apply more where it’s needed. This thoroughly saturates the hair and provides the physical action to break the sulphur bonds. Once the hair reaches the prede- termined level of curl reduction, stop smoothing. tip: For a virgin application on long hair, you may need to press the hair against your hand. Add additional relaxer to unsaturated areas, as needed. Also, check the front hairline to be sure the hair is smooth. Strand test 15. The hair is usually done processing after the smoothing procedure is complete. As soon as you have smoothed down all the hair, test a particularly resistant area of the hair. Processing time is usually complete following smoothing, but it is important to check since processing time can vary. Wipe the product off the subsec- tion of hair using the tail end of the applicator brush. Check for the degree of curl reduction. If the hair has not reached the de- sired level of curl reduction, reap- ply product to the strand that was tested, and repeat the smoothing process. Check another strand after smoothing a second time. Rinse and finish 16. Rinse the relaxer out of the hair using warm water at medium pressure. Avoid stimulating the scalp during this rinse. Start rinsing where you began the application. If there is an area of discomfort, begin rins- ing there. Gently subsection the hair with your fingers as you rinse thoroughly. Pay special attention to thoroughly rinsing the front hairline, the crown, the nape and behind the ears. 17. Change the towel after the first rinse. 18. Shampoo and rinse the hair at least three times to thoroughly remove the product. 19. Condition and style as deter- mined in the consultation. Texturizing Hair that is partially relaxed with a significant amount of curl deliber- ately left in is often called “textur- ized.” Many guests prefer receiv- ing a texturizer rather than having the hair completely relaxed. Doing so increases the styling options from straighter to curlier. Traditionally, hair that was partial- ly relaxed and worn in a “natural” was called a “chemical blowout.” |
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Retouch Relaxer Application
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Relaxed hair has its texture altered, as new hair grows in, it will need to be relaxed if a consistent look is to be maintained. A retouch is usually done when there is approximately 1⁄2 to 1 inch of new growth. The application for a Retouch Relaxer service follows the same sectioning and subsectioning pattern as a Virgin Relaxer service, but the relaxer product is applied only to the new growth.
Take special care when smoothing so you do not allow product to go past the line of demarcation onto hair that was previously processed. |
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Retouch Relaxer Application procedure
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Sectioning
1. Section the hair into four quadrants and clip them neatly. You may need additional clips to control short lengths of hair. Use your mirror to check for balance and continuity. Guest comfort and protection 2. To guard against irritation, apply a basing product to the scalp, following the same procedure as the Virgin Relaxer application, beginning in the back right quadrant. Take 1/8 to 1/4 inch subsections. If you miss areas, there is potential for scalp irritation. 3. Apply protective cream around the hairline and on the top and back of the ears. Subsections/product application 4. Isolate the finer, fragile hair below the occipital at the nape and along the front hairline. 5. Start in the back right quadrant, above the isolated area. Take diagonal subsections and apply product to the new growth. Work efficiently and avoid getting prod- uct on the scalp. 6. Repeat this process in the back left quadrant. 7. Move to the right front quadrant. Starting near the ear, take vertical subsections, and apply product to the new growth. Repeat this process in the left front quadrant and in the isolated areas at the nape and along the front hairline. Recheck 8. Go back and inspect the sub- sections for complete coverage. Re-apply product to any areas as needed. Smooth the hair 9. Using the applicator brush bristles, smooth the hair where product has been applied. Take special care when smoothing so you do not allow product to go past the line of demarcation onto hair that was previously processed. Smoothing thoroughly saturates the hair and provides the physical action to break the sulphur bonds. Continue smoothing the new growth in the same order as you applied the relaxer product, until you have reached the desired level of curl reduction. Strand test 10. As soon as you have smoothed down all the hair, test a particularly resistant area of the hair. Wipe the product off the subsec- tion of hair using the tail end of the applicator brush. Wipe down from the scalp area. Check for the desired degree of relaxation. If the hair has not reached the desired level of curl reduction, reapply product to the strand that was tested and repeat the smoothing process. Check another strand after smoothing a second time. Rinse and finish 11. Rinse the relaxer out of the hair using warm water at medium pressure. Avoid stimulating the scalp during this rinse. Gently subsection the hair with your fingers as you rinse thoroughly. Pay special attention to thoroughly rinsing the front hairline, the crown, the nape and behind the ears. 12. Change the towel after the first rinse. 13. Shampoo and rinse the hair at least three times to thoroughly remove the product. 14. Condition and style. |
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Corrective Relaxer Application
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A Corrective Relaxer is needed when a relaxer service did not process completely in some areas of the hair.
It is often required after a virgin application on longer hair because the warmer scalp area relaxes more than the midlengths and ends. |
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Corrective Relaxer Application procedure
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Assessment
1. First, spray the hair with a water bottle or saturate the hair with water at the shampoo bowl. Do not manipulate the scalp. When the hair is wet you can see variation in the strand. Look for those areas that show more texture and curl than the degree of relaxation at the scalp area. Sectioning 2. Dry the hair, section into four quadrants and clip them in place. Subsectioning/product application 3. Start in the back right quadrant and take 1/8 to 1/4 inch subsections. Follow the same progression as for a virgin application. 4. Apply product only to those areas that require additional relaxing. This takes special care. Recheck 5. Go back and inspect the subsections for thorough product application. Apply product to any areas you may have missed. Smooth the hair 6. Using the applicator brush bristles, smooth the hair. If hair is long, keep it off the neck by placing your hand underneath the subsection and smooth hair against your hand. Strand test 7. As soon as you have smoothed all the hair, test a particularly resistant area of the hair. Process- ing time varies. Wipe the product off the subsection of hair using the tail end of the applicator brush. Wipe down from the scalp area. Check for the desired level of curl. Repeat the reduction and smoothing process if necessary. Rinse and finish 8. Rinse the relaxer out of the hair using warm water at medium pressure. Avoid stimulating the scalp during this rinse. Gently subsection the hair with your fingers as you rinse thoroughly. Pay special attention to thoroughly rinsing the front hairline, the crown, the nape and behind the ears. 9. Change the towel after the first rinse. 10. Shampoo and rinse the hair at least three times to thoroughly remove the product. 11. Condition and style. |
