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76 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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quality |
perceived level of value |
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extrinsic quality |
associated with garment but not an inherent part--brand name retailer merchandising advertising price |
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intrinsic quality |
cannot be changed or manipulated without changing characteristics of garment fiber yarn finish
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ISO international organization for standarization |
comprises the national standards bodies from 91 countries international standards on quality management and quality assurance
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ASTM american society for testing and materials |
world's largest source of voluntary standards publishes books of standards |
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AATCC american association of textile chemists and colorists |
technical and scientific society standard methods for testing dyed and chemically treated fibers and fabrics
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standards |
characteristics or procedures that provide a basis for resources and productions decisions. Reflect quality level important to target customer |
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specifications |
written descriptions of materials procedures dimensions and performance for a particular style
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open specs |
don't describe brand |
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closed spec |
describe brand |
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toleranes |
how far a garment can be off measurements
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defects |
variations exceed tolerances |
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acceptance sampling |
acceptance or rejection of products based on a system of inspecting a representative sample of fabrics, components, operations, or finished garments
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100% sampling |
all samples are checked
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knockoff |
adaptations or modifications to a style
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ruboff |
line for line copy of a style
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fit |
how it conforms to or differs from body
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basic block/sloper/master pattern |
pieces of garment patterns that reflect target market
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style block |
a pattern cut for a more fashionable design vs a basic block
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ease over body/ comfort ease |
garment measure verses body measure extra inches included for breathing and comfort
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styling/design ease |
extra room in garment for style purposes
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grading |
scaling sample size to next size
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quality assurance |
total concept of quality. evaluation of the entire company's divisions as well as products and services provided by the firm. holistic
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quality control |
a more limited form of quality management. products made to specifications. focus on production process rather than entire firm
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direct label costs |
employee wages
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direct material costs |
fabric, thread, trim, findings cost
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overhead |
rent, utilities, lighting, security
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direct costing |
based on variable direct costs: productions, materials, commission |
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absorption costing |
consider variable and non variable
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activity based costing |
based on utilization, cost of all activities most realistic
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preliminary costing |
design development, rough estimate
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cost estimating |
prior to line adoption determines investment for one unit
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cost based pricing |
price based on cost
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demand based pricing |
price set higher, status pricing
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market penetration pricing |
price set slightly above costs to max sales volume
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free on board |
manufacturer pays shipping insurance etc. up to destination
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cash insurance freight CIF |
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price fixing |
illegal; manufacturer makes retail price |
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price discrimination |
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primary source of fabric |
mills
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secondary source of fabric |
jobber, broker,
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jobber |
buy from mills small quantity
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broker |
facilitate transfer of ownership from textile mill to apparel manufacturer
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findings |
things included on garment that aren't fabric, buttons, tags, labels
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make to stock |
forecast inventory levels basic goods. large inventory. max. production.
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make to order |
relates forecasts to order backlog fashion goods. no inventory before or after season is goal
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lead time |
how much time is needed before finished product
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put ups |
how fabric is rolled or folded by manufacturer
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shorts |
40 yards
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remnants |
fabric less than 10 yards may be sold by the pound
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structural design |
intrinsic deals with weave
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applied design |
extrinsic, print, dye embossing finish
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sourcing |
finding cost efficient vendor of materials at specified quality and service level
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agent |
basically a buyer of supplies
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CMT cut make trim |
contractor supplies operators, machines, and thread and make garments. apparel manufacturer supplies fabrics and findings |
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FPP full package program |
source all materials and develop patterns for manufacturing firms as well as provide operators, machines, and thread
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HPP half package program |
does not source fabric and findings but helps complete design
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Item 807 |
garments designed, developed, and cut in the US by manufacturers or retailers garment parts are exported and assembled in a foreign country by a contractor and assembled garments are imported with tariff assessed only on value added
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outsourcing |
buying finished goods from other manufactureres
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letter or credit |
method of payment by sourcer
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domestic sourcing |
speed sourcing. short lead time. well developed distribution
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TLC |
FOB plus quota plus commission plus freight plus insurace |
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price structures |
budget, moderate, better, bridge, designer, couture |
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component |
garment part that requires one or more separate pieces to become an article of clothing--front back sleeve cuff collar |
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vertical landmark |
center front center back |
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horizontal landmarks |
bust waist hip |
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balance lines |
CF CB bust and hip NOT WAIST |
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costing |
process of estimating the total resource investment required to merchandise produce and market a product |
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indirect labor costs |
QC material handlers mechanics maintenance worker and security costs |
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NAICS |
US Canada Mexico publish data about the economy |
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trade balance |
export-import; if negative trade deficit |
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WTO world trade org |
equalize trade; reduce barriers |
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WRAP worldwide responsible apparel production |
make sure apparel prod humane, good wages, working conditions |
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patent defect |
visible fabric flaws |
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latent defect |
fabric flaw only seen after being washed |
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converter |
finisher. buys greige goods and applies finishes and or dyes |
