17Th Century Costume History

Front 1

Balagny

Back 1

A circular cape worn over one shoulder, often secured with a cord that passed under the wide collar.

Front 2

Baldric

Back 2

A cross body band of fabric that was traditionally used to secure your sword to the body prior to the use of sword belts. Often decorated to denote status.

Front 3

Basque

Back 3

The extension of the bodice below the waistline.

Front 4

Canons

Back 4

Full, wide ruffles attached at the bottom of breeches.

Front 5

Carrying Frocks

Back 5

Long gowns that infants too young to walk were dressed in.

Front 6

Cassocks or Casaques

Back 6

Coats cut with wide, full sleeves and wide throughout the body, ending at thigh height or below.

Front 7

Fontage or Commode

Back 7

Wire supports that held a series of ruffles in place on top of women’s hair.

Front 8

Going Frocks

Back 8

Shorter dresses that children old enough to walk wore.

Front 9

Guardinfante

Back 9

A style of dress worn by wealthy Spanish women; the skirt was more oval than the French farthingale, with greater width from side to side, the bodice had a long wide basque that extended down over the top of the wide skirt and the bodice shoulderline was usually horizontal. Sleeves were full and slashed and showed a contrasting fabric and ended in a fitted cuff.

Front 10

Jackboots

Back 10

High, rigid boots made of heavy leather; worn for horseback riding.

Front 11

Mantilla

Back 11

A veil worn to cover the hair; has come to be associated with traditional Spanish costume.

Front 12

Mantua or Manteau

Back 12

A new cut of women’s dress where the skirt and bodice were cut in one length from shoulder to hem. Thought to come from Middle-Eastern robes that were imported into Europe. Full in both the front and the back. Could be pleated to fit the body for more formal wear.

Front 13

Modeste

Back 13

The outer layer of skirt worn under a woman’s gown.

Front 14

Muckinder

Back 14

A handkerchief pinned to the front of clothing for protection.

Front 15

Pantofles

Back 15

Heelless slippers or mules.

Front 16

Petticoat Breeches or Rhinegraves

Back 16

A divided skirt, rather like a modern culotte, that was cut so full that it gave the appearance of a short skirt.

Front 17

Pinafore

Back 17

Came from pinning a sort of apron to the front of children’s clothing.

Front 18

Plumpers

Back 18

Small balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give the face a fashionably rounder shape.

Front 19

Secret

Back 19

The under layer of skirt worn under a woman’s gown.

Front 20

Sherryvallies

Back 20

A leg covering generally worn by horseback riders over trousers or pantaloons that buttoned up on the outside of the leg.

Front 21

Slap Soles

Back 21

A flat sole attached only at the front, not at the heel.

Front 22

Surtouts or Justacorps

Back 22

The French word for Cassocks.

Front 23

Virago Sleeve

Back 23

Stylish sleeves that were paned and tied into a series of puffs.

Front 24

Balandrana or Supertotus*

Back 24

A traveler’s raincoat of the 17th century that had a hood and enveloping sleeves buttoned back on the arm.

Front 25

Boot Hose*

Back 25

hose of sheer white linen with wide lace frills at the top worn to protect the gentlemen’s costly silk hose when worn with boots.

Front 26

Brandenberg Greatcoat*

Back 26

An overcoat adapted from the coats of Prussian soldiers.

Front 27

Bucket-top Boot*

Back 27

Wide topped boot, sometimes turned down in a large cuff.

Front 28

Cadanette*

Back 28

Lovelock or a long curl or strand over one shoulder, tied with ribbon or a string with a rosette.

Front 29

Galants or Favors*

Back 29

Ties or loops of ribbons used on sleeves, bodice or skirt.

Front 30

Habit a la Francaise*

Back 30

The formal attire of European gentlemen for a century: a coat, vest, and breeches.

Front 31

Quatre-foil spur leathers*

Back 31

Worn by early 17th century cavaliers on the instep of their boots to hide the fastenings of the spurs.

Front 32

Rabat*

Back 32

Type of cravat, with a vertically pleated front fall.