Surf·ing: noun
The sport of riding a wave toward the shore standing or lying on a surfboard.
Surfing is one of the oldest sports on the planet. It is known that during the 15th century, kings, queens and people of the Hawaiian islands were big into the sport of wave-sliding. The first surfers were fishermen who discovered riding waves as an efficient method of getting to shore with their catch. Surfing is also one of the few sports that has its own culture and lifestyle. That's what makes it so special! Surfing is difficult because when a big wave is coming and you are not ready it can be terrifying, falling off of your board is frustrating, and never give up makes surfing seem almost impossible. It’s so terrifying when a big wave is coming for you and your like “WHAT” where did that one come from! That's how I feel on my first day in surf camp. There are a lot of people surfing with you so when a big wave comes a big wave of people is coming for you too. AAAAHHHHHHH! And you definitely don’t want to get trampled by a surfboard or a wave. Once a surfboard went over me and I was stuck under water, It was not fun! Sometimes you don’t even notice it because eyes are covered …show more content…
That's what everybody has been telling me so far so I guess I should try doing it. At Least one time right? You can’t get up, you keep falling just give up already! That’s what I have on my mind the whole day. Still, I keep on trying and at one point of the day i’m up and running! (really up and surfing though). Then, Ahhhhhhhhh, I fall :(. But now what's in my mind is not “ GIVE UP!” Its “ KEEP ON TRYING YOU GOT THIS!” So as quick as a flash I run into back into the ocean roll on my stomach and as the wave drifts me away I stand as fast as I can and make sure I have my balance. I think of how proud I am for not giving up I dive back in the water and am so ready for another day like this
The sport of riding a wave toward the shore standing or lying on a surfboard.
Surfing is one of the oldest sports on the planet. It is known that during the 15th century, kings, queens and people of the Hawaiian islands were big into the sport of wave-sliding. The first surfers were fishermen who discovered riding waves as an efficient method of getting to shore with their catch. Surfing is also one of the few sports that has its own culture and lifestyle. That's what makes it so special! Surfing is difficult because when a big wave is coming and you are not ready it can be terrifying, falling off of your board is frustrating, and never give up makes surfing seem almost impossible. It’s so terrifying when a big wave is coming for you and your like “WHAT” where did that one come from! That's how I feel on my first day in surf camp. There are a lot of people surfing with you so when a big wave comes a big wave of people is coming for you too. AAAAHHHHHHH! And you definitely don’t want to get trampled by a surfboard or a wave. Once a surfboard went over me and I was stuck under water, It was not fun! Sometimes you don’t even notice it because eyes are covered …show more content…
That's what everybody has been telling me so far so I guess I should try doing it. At Least one time right? You can’t get up, you keep falling just give up already! That’s what I have on my mind the whole day. Still, I keep on trying and at one point of the day i’m up and running! (really up and surfing though). Then, Ahhhhhhhhh, I fall :(. But now what's in my mind is not “ GIVE UP!” Its “ KEEP ON TRYING YOU GOT THIS!” So as quick as a flash I run into back into the ocean roll on my stomach and as the wave drifts me away I stand as fast as I can and make sure I have my balance. I think of how proud I am for not giving up I dive back in the water and am so ready for another day like this