It was the poorest town I had ever seen. Everybody was busy working, and yet they were living in poverty worse than almost any unemployed Americans.
We spent most of the ensuing two days checking over our gear, practicing with strange things like crampons for ice climbing, and adjusting to the new time schedule. We learned that although we did not pay for a private trip (which would have cost a fortune), we had one due to the irrational fear of Ebola, an epidemic in West Africa thousands of miles away. Our head guide told us he was worried about Tanzania’s economy because of Americans fear of Ebola. “Africa’s a big place, not one country.” We also started taking Diamox (a drug that helps with altitude acclimatization). It had the unpleasant side effects of making our fingers tingle and increasing the amount of times we had to go to the bathroom which would become more unpleasant in freezing nights ahead.
The following day, an army of twenty porters and two guides arrived in a monster high-wheeled truck to take us to the base of the mountain. Looking at our team of perfect specimens with bulging muscles, my confidence soared. I felt we were leading an army into