Eddie Aikau As A Big Wave Surfer

“It is impossible to live without failing at something, unless you live so cautiously that you might as well not have lived at all – in which case, you fail by default.” (Campbell) This is a great quote by JK Rowling in regards to taking risks and encompasses how Eddie Aikau lived his life. Eddie was not a fearful person in regards to any aspect of his life but especially of the ocean and surfing. If it was not for his ability to be a risk-taker, he would not have held the title that he holds to this day as a big wave surfer. Eddie Aikau will always live on as a legendary surfer due to his experience surfing Waimea Bay, being a big wave surfer, and the Polynesian expedition he took place in. Eddie Aikau surfed on the North Shore as much as possible. Winter in Hawaii brought swells to the North Shore of Oahu and these swells …show more content…
Eddie’s strength as a surfer and swimmer earned him a spot on the Hokule’a, the canoe that was used on the expedition (Boissoneault). The point of the expedition was to prove that early Polynesians were able to cross vast distances without the help of metal fittings or navigation aids. Unfortunately, the paddles snapped, spars were shattered and the boat capsized during the expedition due to a storm (Boissoneault). This happened 12 miles south of Molokai, so Eddie decided to take his surfboard and paddle to Lanai for help (Boissoneault). Eddie was never seen again and the crew was rescuded by a U.S. Coast Guard vessel shortly after Eddie had left for help (Boissoneault). Eddie was such a legend in the ocean, that he felt comfortable enough to paddle off alone to save his people. Nainoa Thompson, the canoe’s navigator, stated, “At a deeper level, Eddie tried to rescue not only the crew of the Hokule’a, but the symbolism and dignity of the canoe, because he knew it carried the pride of his people”