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66 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
What is the hairs ability to absorb moisture?
Name the types and describe
Porosity
Low porosity- Resistant
Average porosity
High porosity- overly porous result of over processing
What are the 3 layers of the hair. Describe
Medulla- innermost layer. not everyone has this layer
Cortex- where the pigment and all processes take place
Cuticle- scaly outside layer of the hair protects the other layers.
Describe the difference between:
Pathogenic Bacteria

Non Pathogenic Bacteria
Pathogenic- considered harmful because they may cause disease of infection
Non Pathogenic Bacteria- completely harmless they help break down food, protect against infection and stimulate immune system
What is a Bloodborne Pathogen?
Disease causing microorganisms carried in the body by blood.
What are 3 levels of infection control?
Bacteria- Non pathogenic and pathogenic
Fungus-Molds mildews, and yeast
Virus- can live and reproduce only by penetrating other cells
What gives hair its pigment?
Melanin
What are two types of melanin?
Eumelanin- Brown and Black

Pheomelanin- Blonde and Red
What does texture describe
thickness or diameter of the individual hair
What does density describe?
Hairs per square inch
which layer of the hair gives the hair its pigment and elasticity?
Cortex
What forms the acid mantle
sebum and sweat
How does fungus spread?
Not properly cleaning implements
What shoud you do if your client has a Disease?
Disorder?
Condition?
Disesase refer to a physician' and dont perform services
you can perform services with disorders and conditions but with care.
What are the structures of the nail?
Nail Bed- where the nail plate sits
Matrix- natural nail is formed
lunula- white half moon. visible part of matrix
nail plate- visible and functional part of the nail structure
free edge- part of the nail that extends over the tip of finger or toes
Eponychium- living skin at base of nail
Hyponichium- living skin under nail
Ligament- fibrous tissue connects bones and tissue
nail fold- skin that surrounds the nail plate.
What do the sebaceous glands secrete?
Sweat and oil.
What is the strongest nail shape? What is the weakest?
Squoval is the strongest and pointed is the weakest.
What time of year do your nails grow the fastest?
Summer
In which direction do you apply wax?
Direction hair grows
In which direction do you apply the wax fabric strip
direction in which the hair grows.
in which direction do you remove the wax strip
opposite direction that the hair grows
What is collagen?
Fibrous protein that gives the skin form and strength
What are the 3 lines in haircutting and what does each one produce/used for?
Vertical-remove weight used on layered cuts.
Horizontal- building weight used on one length
Diaganol- used to blend
What are the 2 parts of the shears? What controls each one?
Moving blade- thumb controls
Stationary blade- ring finger
What is projection also known as?
Elevation
What are the 2 types of guidelines?
Describe each one
Traveling- use hair from another section as your guide with out over directing
Stationary- overdirection on by pulling hair from another section
Maintaining tension when cutting will create what?
Precise cut
When pivoting for long layers square where doess your pivot point begin
Back sections at apex
Round layers is defined as what?
Uniform cut layers
Where do clippers shear over comb, clipper over comb begin?
Begin at nape
What blow dry technique creates an end result of a smooth look that contours to the head shape and uses the head as a large roller?
Hair Wrap
What part of the head is flat?
Parietal Ridge
How many sections is the hair parted into for round layers
5 sections
What is the lightest color you should decolorize to?
10- Pale Yellow
What color should you Never decolorize to?
Never Past the Pale yellow stage not safely.
Describe the level system for color. What is the darkest? What is the lightest?
10- Lightest Blonde
1- Black
Different levels of natural hair color
What do color molecules in permanent color do?
The aniline derivatives combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger permanent dye molecules
How are color molecules in temporary color different from those in permanent color?
Temporary colors are non oxidation colors that make only a physical change not a chemical change.
What is a filler? When/why is it used?
help equalize porosity and deposit color in one application
what can a filler also be used for?
Used to recondition damaged overly porous hair and equalize porosity. Used to recondition damaged overly porous hair and equalize porosity. Also used to help before doing an all over dark color on a client that has light
What is the main ingredient in Developer
H202
How much lift will
10vol=
20vol=
30vol=
40vol=
10vol=1 lift
20vol=2 lift
30vol=3 lifts
40vol= 4 lifts
How do you allow for oxidation when placing foils?
Leaving an air pocket when folding foils.
What is a line of demarcation and how can it be avoided?
Overlapping color onto a previously colored area. only color new growth
Law of Color: What are primary colors? What are Secondary colors
law of color- when combining colors you will always get the same result from the same combination.
Primary colors- Blue, Red and Yellow
Secondary Colors- Green Orange and Violet
What are complementary colors and what do they do in law of color?
- are primary and secondary colors positioned directly opposite eachother= they neutralize eachother.
Blue/Orange OB
Red/Green (xmas)
Yellow/Violet (YV)
Hair that has been treated with a ______ relaxer can never be treated with a ______.
Thio and a Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
What is Lanthionization?
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair breaks hair disulfide bonds during processing converts them to lanthionine bonds.
What is an Endothermic Perm
Perm that requires heat to process
What is an Exothermic Perm
a perm that doesnt require heat
What happens if a perm is over processed
Breakage potential
What is the most common base position for a perm?
Half off base
What does a bricklay wrap prevent?
Prevents splits or marks: most natural
What end paper wrap technique is always used
double flat wrap
what end paper technique do you use in a spiral perm?
Bookends
What are curl reformation products similar to?
Thio permanent waves
What does neutralizer do?
the hair and scalp are returned to their natural pH
What does the Ph of chemical services do to the hair?
Breaks disulfide bonds
Thio Relaxers
ammonium thioglycolate active ingred
ph level= 10
neutralize= rebuild disulfide bonds
oxidizing
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
active ingred= hydroxide ion
pH level= 13
Neutralization= does not rebuild bonds.
What are the 4 base positions (stems) in hairstyling?
Rectangular base= upswept
Triangular base= combed into wave without splits
Arc base= good direction
Square base= comb out with lasting results with out much volume
What are the 4 types of braiding discussed in your book?
Invisible braid- overhand pickup technique- 3 strands
rope braid- two strands that are twisted around eachother
fishtail- two strands picked up from eachother and added to eachother
single braids free hanging- 3 strands
A pin curl positioned on it's base is called a__________.
No stem pin curl
When using hot tools what do you do to protect the client?
Use your styling comb between scalp and thermal styling tool
Explain how a roller is held to create
on base:
Half Base:
Off Base:
OB: 45 degree away from you most volume
HB: 90 degree straight out above the base medium volume
OffB: 45 degrees towards you least volume
Steps for a comb out
1. Brush out hair
2. Direct hair into design
3. Back comb or back brush
4. Blend sections
5. lightly spray with finishing spray
What are 3 parts of a curl
Base, Circle Stem