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74 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Three organizations related with quality standards and testing methods:
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1) American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
2) American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) 3) federal government |
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Textile fiber
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A generic term for any one of the various types of matter that form the basic elements of a textile and that is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter.
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Natural Fibers
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1) Cellulose
a. Seed Hair: cotton, kapok, milkweed b. Bast: flax, ramie, jute, kenaf, hemp c. Leaf & other: coir, agave, yucca, pina, sisal, henequen, sacaton 2) Rubber 3) Mineral: Asbestos 4) Protein a. Animal hair: wool, cashmere, camel, llama, alpaca, huarizo, misti, vicuña, guanaco, mohair, qivuit, cashgora b. Extruded: silk |
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Manufactured Fibers
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Regenerated
1) Cellulose: viscose rayon, high-wet modulus rayon, cuprammonium rayon, lyocell, acetate, triacetate 2) Protein: azlon Inorganic: glass, ceramic, metallic Synthetic: nylon, aramid, polyester, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, spandex, elastoester, novoloid, PBI, sulfar, melamine, saran, vinal, vinyon, fluoropolymer, aridex, carbon, nyril |
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Polymer
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A long-chain molecule formed by chemically bonding repeating units (monomers) of the same or different composition. Examples: protein, cellulose, starches, etc.
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Degree of polymerization (DP)
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The number of repeating units in the average chain; the lower the DP, the weaker the fiber.
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Intermolecular forces
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1) Primary bonds: covalent bonds
2) Secondary bonds: hydrogen bonds and polar and nonpolar van der Waals forces/London forces/dispersion forces |
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Crystalline Fibers with High Orientation
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1) Stronger
2) Stiffer 3) Less stretchable 4) Increased luster 5) Less absorbent 6) Lower dye uptake |
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Provisions of Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
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1) Label Must
a. List general fiber names in order of percent by weight b. List manufacturer name, registered trademark, or registered identification number c. List country of origin 2) Label Must Not a. Imply presence of fibers not included b. List fibers less than 5% unless they serve specific purpose 3) Label May a. List trademark with generic name b. Designate fibers as "unidentified" |
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Polymer morphology
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The way in which the billions of polymer chains within each single fiber are arranged.
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Crimp
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The wavy physical structure of a fiber.
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Luster
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The amount of light reflected by a textile material.
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Microfibers
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Very fine fibers, less than one denier.
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Density
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The mass per unit volume of a fiber or other material.
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Specific gravity
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The density of the fiber in relation to the density of an equal volume of water at a temperature of 4°C.
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Tenacity
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The tensile force a fiber will sustain before rupturing, express as force relative to fiber linear density.
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Elongation
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The ratio of the extension of a material to the length of the material before stretching.
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Resiliency
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The ability of a fiber to spring back to its natural position after a distorting force such as bending, twisting, or compressing.
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Melt spinning
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The formation of manufactured textile fibers in which the polymer is melted for extrusion and hardened by cooling.
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Dry spinning
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The formation of manufactured textile fibers in which the polymer is dissolved in a solvent that is evaporated, leaving the filament to harden by drying in air.
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Wet spinning
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The formation of manufactured textile fibers in which the fibers are hardened by extruding the fibers into a chemical bath.
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Modulus
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The resistance to stretching of a textile material.
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Cotton is a ___________ fiber.
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hydrophilic
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Elastic recovery
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Recovery that occurs instantaneously after a stress is removed.
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Electrical conductivity
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The ability of a fiber to carry or transfer electrical charges.
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Fabrics with ___ or ____ conductivity build electrical charges with the result that these fabrics cling or produce electric shocks.
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low, poor
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Linters
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The short, fibrous material adhering to the cotton seed after the spinnable lint has been removed by ginning and that is subsequently recovered from the seed by a process called "delinting."
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Scouring
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A wet process for removing dirt or impurities from textiles by application of chemicals surfactants.
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Carding
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The process step in making spun yarns in which fibers are passed through intermeshing wires that separate and pull them into somewhat parallel form.
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Five end uses for apparel:
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1) Dress
2) Shirt 3) Jacket 4) Jeans 5) Robe |
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Five end uses for furnishing:
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1) Curtains
2) Upholstered seats 3) Carpet 4) Upholstered sofa 5) Decorative pillows |
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Five end uses for industrial textiles:
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1) Roads
2) Bridges 3) Buildings 4) Tires 5) Medical implants |
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Textile supply chain:
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1) Customer
2) Fiber producer 3) Yarn/fabric mills 4) Product manufacturer 5) Wholesaler/distributor 6) Retailer 7) Customer |
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Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), 1994-2005
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Phase-out of textile quotas
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Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA), 2005
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Removed tariffs on textile goods traded between U.S. and Central America
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General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT), 1947
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Governed trade negotiations on all goods among countries
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Multifibre Arrangement (MFA), 1974-2005
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Provided for bilateral negotiation of textile quotas between countries
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North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), 1994
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Removed tariffs on textile goods traded among U.S., Canada, and Mexico
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Textiles Monitoring Body (TMB), 1994
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Governed trade negotiations in textiles under the WTO
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World Trade Organization (WTO), 1994
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Governed trade negotiations on all goods among countries
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International Textile Concerns:
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1) Labor cost and exchange rate
2) Trade Agreements 3) Congress passed legislation for carrying labels 4) Technological sophistication and automation of American textile industries 5) Niche areas: industrial fabric, finished apparels, warp knits, specialty yarns, home furnishing textiles |
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Fiber diameter
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Thickness of fiber measured in millimeters or microns.
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Linear density
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Fineness measured by . . .
1) Denier--weight in grams per 9000 meters 2) Tex--weight in grams per 1000 meters |
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Flammability
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Ability to ignite or burn; smolder.
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Dimensional stability
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The ability of a fiber or yarn to withstand shrinking or stretching (caused by moisture absorbency).
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Boll
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Seed pod
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Lint
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Seed hairs
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Ginning
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Removes the fibers from the seeds.
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Organic cotton
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No use of pesticides or synthetic fertilizers and weed management without commonly used weed killers.
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Cotton Fiber Quality Attributes
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1) Length
2) Strength 3) Fineness 4) Color 5) Brightness 6) Trash content 7) Ginning preparation |
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Which fiber properties is directly the result of the -OH function group in cotton fiber?
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The hydroxyl groups on the chains are responsible for many of the properties of cellulosic fibers: They attract water and dye, and they also enable hydrogen bonding between adjacent cellulosic chains in the crystalline areas of the fiber.
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Picking
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Cotton harvesting
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Major classifications of cotton:
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1) Short-staple fiber: 3/8 to 3/4 inches in length. Short fibers come from Asiatic species of cotton that are both short and coarse.
2) Intermediate-staple fiber: 13/16 to 1 1/4 inches in length. The variety known as American Upland is of intermediate length and coarseness. This variety of cotton makes up by far the largest quantity of cotton fiber grown in the United States. 3) Long-staple fiber. 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches. This includes varieties known as Sea Island, Egyptian, and pima (or American-Egyptian), all of which are used for good-quality cotton fabric. Peruvian and Brazilian fibers also fall into this classification. However, the Peruvian variety, known as tanguis, has a slight crimp and rougher feel, somewhat like that of wool, with which it is sometimes blended. |
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Why does cotton have low resiliency?
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In stretching or wrinkling, hydrogen bonds between chains are broken then reformed in the new position, holding the wrinkle or other deformation.
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Why does cotton have high moisture regain?
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Because of its many hydroxyl groups, which attract water, cotton is an absorbent fiber.
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Caring for cotton apparels:
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1) Synthetic detergents, natural soaps
2) Dry cleaning 3) Chlorine bleach can cause pinholes |
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Wool
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Fiber that has never been reclaimed from any woven or felted wool product.
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Recycled wool
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1) The resulting fiber when wool has been woven or felted into a wool product which, without ever having been utilized in any way by the consumer, subsequently has been made into a fibrous state
2) The resulting fiber when wool or reprocessed wool has been spun, woven, knitted, or felted into a wool product which, after having been used in any way by the ultimate consumer, subsequently is made into a fibrous state |
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Three specialty hair fibers of the camel family:
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1) Llama
2) Alpaca 3) Guanaco |
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Pulled wool
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Wool removed from animals that have been slaughtered for meat; it is inferior in quality to fleece or clip wool because it is less lustrous and elastic.
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Carbonizing
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The process of removing cellulosic impurities from wool by treatment with mineral acid.
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Care of wool garments:
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1) Lukewarm water and special synthetic detergents without added alkali
2) No chlorine bleach |
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Protein in silk
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Fibroin
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Why are wool fibers more susceptible to attack by insect larvae and carpet bettles?
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Wool contains amino acids which contain sulfur.
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Protein in wool
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keratin
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Care instructions for silk:
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Store away from direct sunlight; very sensitive to bases, especially chlorine bleaches
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Trademark
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The word or symbol used by fiber producers to distinguish their products from the products of other manufacturers.
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How would you promote flax fiber for its use in apparels?
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Flax is grown virtually free of herbicides and pesticides. Because of their high moisture absorbency and wicking ability, linen fabrics are popular for summer clothing.
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What are the factors contributing to the warmth provided by wool?
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Poor heat conductivity of wool fiber and its ability to trap air between the fibers contribute to its excellent qualities for cold-weather clothing.
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Wool is a weak fiber and it has low strength. Explain briefly.
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Wool is a relatively weak fiber (tenacity is 1.0 to 1.7 g/d). The low strength is mainly due to the low degrees of crystallinity and orientation in the fiber. The strength decreases in wet wool because the hydrogen bonds are broken by water.
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Why does silk have high luster?
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The luster of degummed silk is high but not as bright as manufactured fibers with round cross sections. Although the surface of the fiber is smooth, the roughly triangular shape changes the pattern of light reflection.
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Why does wool have a higher elongation than silk?
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Wool is easily extended. The helical structure of the molecules allows them to be straightened when the fiber is stretched.
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The lust of wool is low because of the . . .
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scaly, rough surface.
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Why does wool have poor dimensional stability?
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The tendency of wool to shrink and felt can cause fabrics and garments to decrease in size. The shrinkage of wool is progressive. In the first laundering, fabrics stretched in the weaving process tend to relax. But wool will continue to shrink with subsequent launderings if it is not washed in cool water with a minimum of handling.
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