Textiles Final Exam Terms

Front 1

Dye

Back 1

Organic
Water soluble
Creates a bond with fibres
Most permanent form of textile dyeing

Front 2

Pigment

Back 2

Insoluble therefore requires a binding agent.

Front 3

What is the difference between DYE and PIGMENT?

Back 3

Dye becomes one with the fibres(chemical bond), where as pigment just sits on top of the fibres.

Front 4

Dye Lot

Back 4

A batch of textile that was dyed in the same bath.

A lot of fabric dyed in the same solution ;)

(each DYE LOT may produce slightly different colour results)

Front 5

Lab Dip

Back 5

Just the dip!

A sample done by the dyeing lab.

Meant to test out the dye.

Front 6

Colourfastness

Back 6

How FAST the colour fades.

COLOURFASTNESS is GOOD - the textile holds it's colour well:
it doesn't fade or bleed.

COLOURFASTNESS is BAD - colour is not sticking around and is fading and bleeding all over the place!

Front 7

Metamerism

Back 7

Two colours look the same under one type of light but not another.

Quite a mesmerizing effect ;)

"meta" meaning "after"
"merism" meaning "contrasting"

Front 8

Elastomer

Back 8

Natural or Synthetic

At room temperature stretches twice it's length and bounces back to original length.

Gggrreaaaat elasticity!

Front 9

Elastoester

Back 9

Manufactured fibre

50% aliphatic polyether and 35% polyester(at least and measure by weight)

Front 10

What is the difference between ELASTOMER and ELASTOESTER?

Back 10

Elastomer can be natural OR synthetic.
Elastoester is only synthetic (manufactured).

To remember: Elastomer - shorter word = simpler = one
Elastoester - longer word = complex = combination of 50% polyether and 35% polyester (at least)

Front 11

Elesterll-P

Back 11

Bi-component of polyester
Stretch and recovery can vary.

To remember:
elesterLL-p = LL(double "L") = bi = Bi-component
+ bi = varies it's preference [ ;) ] = stretch can vary

Front 12

Lastol [Subclass]

Back 12

Subclass of an elastic olefin

Front 13

Spun Dyed

Back 13

Dyed during the spinning process

Used on synthetic, filament, staple or yarn

Front 14

Stock Dyed

Back 14

Fibres dyed in a "dye stock" BEFORE they are spun.

To remember: soup stock = the fibres are dyed in a dye soup

OR think of stock as a quantity.

Front 15

Yarn Dyed

Back 15

Dyed Yarn!

Yarn dyed after the yarn has been spun.

Front 16

Piece Dyed

Back 16

A "piece" of cloth dyed after it has been woven or knitted into said "piece" of cloth

Front 17

Union Dyed

Back 17

Dyeing fabric made of a "union" of multiple types of fibres

Front 18

Garment Dyed

Back 18

This rarely looks good....

Dyeing the garment AFTER it has been constructed.

Front 19

Cross Dyed

Back 19

A method of coloring fabric using the blend of fibres of which some have already been dyed.

Front 20

Fluorescent Dye Class

Back 20

Dye class that creates white fibres

Found in some laundry detergents - maintains the fluorescent white of the fibres

Front 21

Vat

Back 21

Dyeing method of dyeing fabric in a vat(bath)

Best used on cotton and some polyester fibres.

Front 22

Spectrophotometer

Back 22

Measures the amount of light reflected and absorbed by an object.

To remember :
Spectro = Spectrum
Photo = to make a record of
Meter = to measure
Measures the spectrum of light that an object reflects or absorbs.

Front 23

Acid Dye

Back 23

Primarily used with natural protein fibres and nylon

Front 24

Azoic Dye

Back 24

Dye that is not actually directly applied as dye; it creates the dye within the fibre as a chemical reaction.

VERY colourfast!

To remember:
A-zoic = gets and "A" for colourfastness =because the colour is created WITHIN the fibre

Front 25

Cationic Dye

Back 25

Used with acrylic fibres

Basic Dye

Used to dye paper

Front 26

Developed, Direct Dye

Back 26

Dye directly applied to fabric

Vibrant colours but washes out

Simple to use = at home use

Front 27

Disperse Dye, Fluorescent

Back 27

Water insoluble

Used to permanently dye polyester and acetate

Front 28

Mordant

Back 28

Pre-treatment of metal salt

Used to improve colour absorption in natural fibres by bonding the dye with fibres

Front 29

Reactive Dye

Back 29

Used [primarily] with natural fibres and rayon

Create a chemical bond(reaction) with cellulose fibre

Good colourfastness!

Front 30

Sulfur Dyes

Back 30

Used primarily with cotton

Made insoluble within the fibre by oxidation

Front 31

Grin Thru

Back 31

Elastomeric fibres that break and "grin through" the fabric surface

Front 32

Rubber [Neoprene]

Back 32

Rubber comes from a tree = NATURAL fibre

Front 33

Spandex [Lycra]

Back 33

Manufactured Fibre - Man made

Consists of at least 85% segmented polyurethane

Front 34

Metallic Fibres

Back 34

Manufactured (manmade) fibres

Made of metal or a core coated in metal(obviously!)

Thin sheet of ALUMINIUM laminated on both sides with acetate or polyester

Front 35

Aramid [Kevlar/Nomex]

Back 35

Manufacter fibre (manmade)

Front 36

Glass

Back 36

Manufactured Fibre

i.e.: Fibre Glass used for heat insulation

Front 37

Fluoropolymer (PTFE)

Back 37

Manufactured

Strong resistance to solvents, acids and bases.

To remember:
FLUORO - Fluorescent = glow sticks = raves.
People drop acid at raves and dance to heavy base.

They are not bothered by acid or base = FLUOropolymer is also not bothered(strong resistance to bases, acids and solvents)

ALSO : Contains at least 95% long chain polymer synthesized from aliphatic fluorocarbon polymers

Front 38

Stainless Steel

Back 38

Metal that doesn't rust

Front 39

Colourway

Back 39

Ways in which colour can be used to create options for the same fabric.

Usually the colours of colour ways look well together or follow a theme.

Front 40

Strike Off

Back 40

Test Length of Fabric

A length of fabric printed to test:
pattern registration
pattern repeat
matching of shades in the design

Front 41

Photosensitive Dyes (LUMI)

Back 41

Dyes sensitive to light(photo)

Dyes activated with sunlight or very bright light.

The pattern areas are covered, then the fabric is exposed to light. Where the light hits, dye changes colour; covered areas remain a contrasting(previous) colour. (pic sample)

Front 42

Holographic

Back 42

Appears to be 3D

You see it on cash all the time!

Composed of layers of images(which gives it the 3D effect)

Front 43

Screen Printing aka Silk Screening

Back 43

A screen marked with pattern.
The negative areas of the image are solid where as the positive ares are porous.

A dye/pigment paste is pressed through the porous areas of the screen and is transferred onto the fabric in a pattern.

Front 44

Direct Printing

Back 44

Colour is DIRECTLY applied to the fabric.

Example: painting with a brush directly onto a textile; stamping

Front 45

Discharge Printing

Back 45

Process in which the dye is removed(discharged) from fabric, in a patten.

Front 46

Resist Printing

Back 46

a resist(solution, paste, gell etc.) is applied to the fabric in a pattern.

The fabric is then dyed where the dye does not affect the areas protected by the resistance of the resist!

[much cleaner than discharge because the fibres have never been dyed]

Front 47

Heat Transfer Printing

Back 47

Transferring a print onto a textile with help of heat.

The heat heats up the paint and helps it adhere to the textile like glue.

[sits on top of the surface of the textile. Is prone to peeling/chipping off with wear]

Front 48

Foil Printing

Back 48

Printing a pattern using foil and an adhesive.

Foil only sticks to the glue(administered in a pattern)

Front 49

Jet Printing

Back 49

Colour application through a tiny jet in a pattern.

Like a colour jet printer.

Front 50

Engineered Print

Back 50

The print is predetermined to appear in specific areas of the garment.

ie. Alexander McQueen (may his soul rest in peace)

Front 51

Duplex Print

Back 51

Process in which BOTH(DU-plex) sides of the fabric are printed.

Front 52

Burn Out Printing

Back 52

Textile composed of two different fibres:
Mesh base (manufactured fibre)
Fibres woven through the mesh made of organic fibres

A chemical is applied in a pattern which eats away(BURNS) the natural fibres, leaving a lovely pattern.

Front 53

Flocking Printing

Back 53

An adhesive is applied to a textile in a pattern

Then tiny fibres are poured on top of it - the fibres stick(FLOCK) only to the glue(in a pattern)

The pile sits on top and cannot be seen on the other side of the fabric UNLIKE burn out fabrics.

Front 54

Bleeding

Back 54

The dye bleeds(leaves) from the fabric.

Happens to dyes that are not chemically bonded to the fabric like DEVELOPED DYES (because they sit on top of the fibre)

Front 55

Crocking

Back 55

Colour that transfers with abrasion

[I can't think of anything to create this memorable :( ]

Front 56

Migration

Back 56

Dye migrates(shifts) from it's designated area to the surrounding areas of the textile.

Kind of like a bad mascara migrates down your eye after a long day.

Front 57

Fume Fading

Back 57

Colour fades/changes when exposed to fumes (gases, pollutants)

Front 58

Tendering

Back 58

The fabric "tenders" or weakens when exposed to degradants

Degradants = acids, bleach.... anything that can eat away at fabric.

Front 59

Frosting

Back 59

Happens when dye rubs off of the fabric because it has not penetrated into the fibres deep enough(just hangs out on top)

Happens to jeans a lot and they start looking "frosted"

Front 60

Out of Register

Back 60

When print layers are not aligned properly

To remember:
remember this shopping cart heading for the "register" to check out

OR

Register as in a musical tone = out of register = out of key

Front 61

Off Grain

Back 61

Warp and Filling yarns (weft) are not meeting at 90 degree angles

Happens a lot to muslin ( by the salvage).

Front 62

Off Shade

Back 62

Fabric that is meant to be the same colour does not match shades.

Would happen with VAT and STOCK DYES because fabric is dyes in batches.

You have probably seen with with some dollar store objects!

Front 63

Ombre

Back 63

No need to explain!

Front 64

BREAK TIME!!!

Back 64

Option 1: Cat Vines
www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tzhyfWHdLo

Option 2: Shake it with Beyonce!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ12_E5R3qc

Option 3: Go eat something!
www.yourfridge.kitchen

Front 65

Ikat

Back 65

Certain yarns are treated with resist before woven into a fabric. Then the fabric is dyed - revealing a pattern through uncoloured yarns.

Front 66

Finish

Back 66

A finish applied to a fabric to complete it.

finish examples: fire retardant, waterproofing, anti-static, mercerizing

Front 67

Scouring

Back 67

Finished step in which soil, excess chemicals or fibre coatings are removed.

Fabric that had a resist solution on it may be scoured to remove the resist chemicals after the printing process.

Front 68

Calendaring

Back 68

Finishing technique - fabric is passed between to cylinders to achieve an effect

The cylinders have grooves on them that press an "effect" onto the fabric. (not a pattern, but a finishing effect for the fabric)

ie. Used on Moire to produce it's "watery" effect

Front 69

Cire

Back 69

Finishing - high lustre

A thermoplastic fabric is calendared through one hot/one cold rolls. The hot roll melts one side of the fabric just enough to give it high lustre.

Front 70

Converter

Back 70

A plant/factory that receives unfinished textiles and finishes(converts) them to be ready for use.

Front 71

Bleaching

Back 71

Process that uses bleach to lift colour or remove stains

Bleaching may cause TENDERING of fibres.

Front 72

Glazing

Back 72

An agent is applied to the surface of the fabric, which then is heat pressed - resulting in a lustrous finish.

Front 73

Moire

Back 73

Fabric finish create through calendaring.

Pressing two unbalanced, shiny, plain weave fabrics together through CALENDARING.

Front 74

Singeing (to singe)

Back 74

Applying high heat to manufactured fibre ends (like polyester) which melts the fibres.

Can be used to melt "fuzz" - creating a smoother surface

Front 75

Ammoniating

Back 75

Finish that increases absorbency of cellulosic fibres

Front 76

Tenter Frame

Back 76

A "frame" that carries a textile through a heat finish.

It's purposed is to prevent the textile from shrinking during a finishing process.

ie: A wool fabric would need support from a TENTER FRAME while going through a finishing process, otherwise it would just shrink and lose it's shape

Front 77

Schreiner

Back 77

Schreinerizing fabric - etching fine lines on a fabrics surface
Creates subtle luster, may increase surface cover.

To remember: Schre = shredder= shreds paper into strips(fine lines)

Front 78

Bio-Polishing

Back 78

Bio - Natural
Polish - Finish

An enzyme treatment for natural(cellulosic) fibres
Used to produce a softer hand and to reduce pilling

Front 79

Mercerization

Back 79

A finish

Sodium hydroxide used on cotton/hemp to increase absorbency, lustre and strength.

Front 80

Optical Brighteners

Back 80

Chemical compound used to produce a white appearance; found in detergents to make whiter whites!

Same compound as used in Fluorescent Dyes!

Front 81

Embossing

Back 81

Finish - Creates a 3D effect.

A CALENDARING effect. One of the rolls has a 3D, heated pattern which then is pressed into a synthetic fabric, permanently "melting" a 3D design.

Front 82

Desizing

Back 82

Removing the physical or biological aids that helped the fabric retain it's shape during weaving.

Front 83

Slashing

Back 83

Preparing warp yarns with starch, resin or gelatinous substances to increase body and abrasion resistance.

This step will strengthen the yarn enough to survive a high speed weaving process - won't break, tangle, or tear.

Front 84

Sueding/Peach Skin

Back 84

Rotating sandpaper "fuzzes" the textile surface to create a suede finish.

Front 85

Napping

Back 85

A wired brush is run over a textile surface to create a nap

Produces softer hand and better insulation.

Front 86

Shearing

Back 86

Cutting away protruding fibres or yarns off the textile surface to ensure a levelled finish.

Front 87

Brushing

Back 87

Brush that removes unwanted fibre ends from the fabric's surface.

"BRUSHES" away the impurities

Front 88

Flocking

Back 88

Short fibres are bonded to the surface of a fabric with an adhesive.

^here are some nails that have been flocked using the technique!

Front 89

Light Reflectant

Back 89

A finish that reflects light in order to minimize colour fading from exposure to light.

Front 90

Plisse

Back 90

Effect that creates a permanently WRINKLED fabric.

Created with caustic soda paste - which unevenly shrinks and puckers the fabric.

Front 91

Seersucker

Back 91

Made by slack-tension weaving process which puckers the fabric.

Has vertical crinkled stripes

Front 92

Stiffening Finishes

Back 92

A finish that stiffens the fabric.

Creates resistance to bending or creasing

ie. starching -the homemade method ;)

Front 93

Softeners

Back 93

Softens the water - removes hardness ions from water

THUS

Resulting in softer fabric

Front 94

Antimicrobial

Back 94

Destroys or inhibits growth of disease causing microorganisms.

Probably good to use on hospital scrubs!

Front 95

Stonewash

Back 95

Throwing a textile(commonly jeans) in a giant tumbler with stones.

Creates this effect ^

Front 96

Acid Wash

Back 96

Used on denim to create a visual effect

Achieved by wash with sodium hydrochloride bleach and pumice stones!

Front 97

Cellulase Wash

Back 97

Enzymes are used to produce stone washing effect

Works by decomposing fibres

Front 98

Creping

Back 98

Compacting process that softens fabric hand

Front 99

Heat Reflectant

Back 99

A finish that allows fibres to reflect heat.

Used in some awesome high tech over mitts btw!

Front 100

Antistatic

Back 100

A compound added to the fabric's surface to reduce static.

Works by helping the fabric absorb moisture, conduct electricity and neutralize the buildup of static!

Front 101

Water Repellent

Back 101

A finish that restricts water absorbency by fibres.

Front 102

Water Proof

Back 102

A fabric coating that eliminates gaps and prevents water from being absorber by the fabric(entirely)

Front 103

Difference between water PROOF and water REPELLENT ?

Back 103

Proof - roof - No water penetration AT ALL.

Repellent - repels water, but some may come through the surface of the fabric.

Front 104

Flame Retardant

Back 104

Finish

Makes fabric resistant to combustion/catching on fire.

ie: firefighting suits

Front 105

Moth Proofing

Back 105

Finish used on moth delicatessen such as wool.

Repels the bugs, thus preventing them from feasting on your sweater.

Front 106

Parchmentizing

Back 106

Acid finish

Used on cotton

Produces fabric with a crisper/stiffer hand

(kinda makes cotton feel like stiff linen)

Front 107

Relaxation Shrinkage

Back 107

Fabric warping from excessive tension on it during the production process.

Front 108

Compressive Shrinkage Control

Back 108

Finish that removes stress from weaving and previous finishes applied to fabric.

Front 109

Durable Press

Back 109

Finish that improves the durability of the fabric.

Maintains wrinkle free appearance during use and care.

Front 110

Heat Set

Back 110

When a fibre, yarn or fabric is "set" with heat.

The stability of the fabric or a texture/design feature is made permanent with heat.

Front 111

Wrinkle Free

Back 111

Feature of fabric that minimizes wrinkling

Created trough a finishing process

Front 112

Soil Release

Back 112

Coating used on fabrics to repel soil absorption into the fibres.

The finish makes it easier to remove soil during laundering.

Front 113

Stain Repellency

Back 113

Finish that prevents unwanted substances from penetrating the fibres

Makes the stain sit on top of the fabric

Fluorochemicals or silicone base finishes

Front 114

London Shrinkage

Back 114

Process that relaxes wool fabrics

Front 115

Encapsulation/Phase Change

Back 115

Microcapsules that balance temperature

Applied to textiles to level(high/low) outer temperatures to make the wearer more comfortable.

Front 116

Halogenation

Back 116

Wool finish.

Dissolves fibre scales in order to produce a washable fabric.