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67 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Alpaca
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-South America
-fine, soft -nice drape and luster -expensive -less scales, difficult to dye |
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Angora
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-from rabbit
-soft /slippery -blended w/ wool - poor cohesiveness |
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Camel's Hair
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-Bactrain Camel 2 humps
- 30% used for apparel -warm good insulator - used in blends - brown natural color used |
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Cashgora
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fiber from a feral cashmere goat and angora goat
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Cashmere
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-goat
- fine scales, soft hand - 1/2 lb from each goat - warm, good draping |
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Scoured (Clean) Wool
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wool that is cleaned to remove soil and other impurities
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Cortex
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-main part of wool fibers
- contains 2 cell types |
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Crimp
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2 or 3D aspect in which fibers or yarns twist or bend back and forth around their axis
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Duppioni Silk
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naturally thick and thin silk from 2 catarpillars that formed one cocoon
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Felting
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producing fabric from wool fibers by interlocking the fibers scales
-fibers do not return to original position |
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Fibroin
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protein of silk fibers
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Garnetted
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shredding wool yarns or fabrics to produce wool fibers for recycling
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Grading Wool
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judging a wool fleece for its fineness and length
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Guanaco
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fiber from South America
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Hygroscopic
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fibers with high moisture absorbency
-ability to stay dry to touch |
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Keratin
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protein found in animal fibers
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Lamb's Wool
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-less than 7 months old
- fine and soft |
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Llama
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-S.A.
-white, tan , brown, black -coarser than alpaca |
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Medulla
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airy, honeycombed core present in some wool fibers
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Merino
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*Most used/ valuble
sheep breed -Australia -1-5 inches |
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Mohair
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-Angora goat
-coarse strong fiber - air canals between cells -fewer scales than wool and no crimp -resist crushing and pilling -for special drapery -less expensive |
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Momme, Momie, Mommie
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- weight of silk fabrics
- abbreviated mm - one momme weighs 3.75 grams |
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Natural bicompotent fiber
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contains the 2 types of cortex cells
ex: wool fiber |
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Natural Protein Fibers
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fiber of andimal or insect origin
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Qiviut
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the fine underwool fiber obtained from the musk ox
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Raw or Grease Wool
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wool removed as is with all impurities still in it
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Raw Silk
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silk thats not been processed to remove the sericin
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Recycled Wool
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wool thats been processed into fabrics, garnetted, and processed into another fabric
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Reeling
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process of removing silk fibers from several cocoons and winding them onto a reel
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Scales
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horny, non-fibrous layer on outside of wool fibers
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Scroop
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natural rustle made when 2 layers of silk fabric are rubbed together
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Sericin
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water-soluble protective gum that surrounds silk when its extruded by a caterpillar
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Sericulture
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production of cultivated silk
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Silk
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produced by catarpillars
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Silk in the gum
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raw silk
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Silk noils
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staple silk from cocoons in which catarpillars matured into moths
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Sorting wool
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dividing a fleece into different-quality fibers
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Spider silk
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-strong
-elastic -hard to produce |
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Tussah Silk
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type of wild silk
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Vicuna
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- S.A. camel
-MOST expensive -softest -protected species, illegal in US |
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Virgin Wool
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has never been processed into a fabric before
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Weighting
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treating silk w/ metallic salts to increase dyeability, weight, hand
- accelarated degredation |
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Wild Silk
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-naturally grown staple silk
-more irregular in texture and color |
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Wool
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fibers from sheep or lambs
-retains shape -good elastic recovery - pilling sheds easily -weakens when wet -hydroscopic -wrinkle resistant/ recovery -shrink -irreversible felting |
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yak
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fiber from Tibetan Ox
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Recycled Wool
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scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that are back to the fibrous state and reused
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Fulling
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applied to fabric not yarn
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Cohesiveness
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fibers that cling together in a yarn
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Worsted Wool Yarns
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shorter, removed fibers
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Insulation
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fiber bulkiness creates pockets of "dead air space" to capture and hold body heat
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Agitation
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Wod
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Lighter than Cellulosic Fibers
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Protein Fibers
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3 Conditions needed to produce natural felt from wool
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Moisture, Heat, Agitation
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Moisture
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to swell the fiber and open the scales
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Heat
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to facilitate the fiber swelling
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Protein Fibers
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-somewhat flame resistant
- dye well - resilient |
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Natural Crimp
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wool fibers
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specialty wool
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from other animals such as goats, camels, llamas
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Allergic Reaction
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roughness of wool produces contact dermatitis
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Grading
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evaluating whole fleece according to fineness and length
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Sorting
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separate the individual fleece by fiber length and fineness
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Scouring
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treatment with 5% sodium hydroxide at 50C to remove oils from wool
"degreasing" |
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Lanolin
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the natural oil recovered from scouring
-used for soaps and cosmetics |
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Carbonizing
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treating with dilute acid to break down cellulosic materials caught in fleece
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Carding
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combing to align fiber before spinning and weaving
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Fulling
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finish to provide thicker structure
- put in warm water with soap or acid and agitation and shrinks to desired amount |
