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67 Cards in this Set

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Alpaca
-South America
-fine, soft
-nice drape and luster
-expensive
-less scales, difficult to dye
Angora
-from rabbit
-soft /slippery
-blended w/ wool
- poor cohesiveness
Camel's Hair
-Bactrain Camel 2 humps
- 30% used for apparel
-warm good insulator
- used in blends
- brown natural color used
Cashgora
fiber from a feral cashmere goat and angora goat
Cashmere
-goat
- fine scales, soft hand
- 1/2 lb from each goat
- warm, good draping
Scoured (Clean) Wool
wool that is cleaned to remove soil and other impurities
Cortex
-main part of wool fibers
- contains 2 cell types
Crimp
2 or 3D aspect in which fibers or yarns twist or bend back and forth around their axis
Duppioni Silk
naturally thick and thin silk from 2 catarpillars that formed one cocoon
Felting
producing fabric from wool fibers by interlocking the fibers scales
-fibers do not return to original position
Fibroin
protein of silk fibers
Garnetted
shredding wool yarns or fabrics to produce wool fibers for recycling
Grading Wool
judging a wool fleece for its fineness and length
Guanaco
fiber from South America
Hygroscopic
fibers with high moisture absorbency
-ability to stay dry to touch
Keratin
protein found in animal fibers
Lamb's Wool
-less than 7 months old
- fine and soft
Llama
-S.A.
-white, tan , brown, black
-coarser than alpaca
Medulla
airy, honeycombed core present in some wool fibers
Merino
*Most used/ valuble
sheep breed
-Australia
-1-5 inches
Mohair
-Angora goat
-coarse strong fiber
- air canals between cells
-fewer scales than wool and no crimp
-resist crushing and pilling
-for special drapery
-less expensive
Momme, Momie, Mommie
- weight of silk fabrics
- abbreviated mm
- one momme weighs 3.75 grams
Natural bicompotent fiber
contains the 2 types of cortex cells
ex: wool fiber
Natural Protein Fibers
fiber of andimal or insect origin
Qiviut
the fine underwool fiber obtained from the musk ox
Raw or Grease Wool
wool removed as is with all impurities still in it
Raw Silk
silk thats not been processed to remove the sericin
Recycled Wool
wool thats been processed into fabrics, garnetted, and processed into another fabric
Reeling
process of removing silk fibers from several cocoons and winding them onto a reel
Scales
horny, non-fibrous layer on outside of wool fibers
Scroop
natural rustle made when 2 layers of silk fabric are rubbed together
Sericin
water-soluble protective gum that surrounds silk when its extruded by a caterpillar
Sericulture
production of cultivated silk
Silk
produced by catarpillars
Silk in the gum
raw silk
Silk noils
staple silk from cocoons in which catarpillars matured into moths
Sorting wool
dividing a fleece into different-quality fibers
Spider silk
-strong
-elastic
-hard to produce
Tussah Silk
type of wild silk
Vicuna
- S.A. camel
-MOST expensive
-softest
-protected species, illegal in US
Virgin Wool
has never been processed into a fabric before
Weighting
treating silk w/ metallic salts to increase dyeability, weight, hand
- accelarated degredation
Wild Silk
-naturally grown staple silk
-more irregular in texture and color
Wool
fibers from sheep or lambs
-retains shape
-good elastic recovery
- pilling sheds easily
-weakens when wet
-hydroscopic
-wrinkle resistant/ recovery
-shrink
-irreversible felting
yak
fiber from Tibetan Ox
Recycled Wool
scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that are back to the fibrous state and reused
Fulling
applied to fabric not yarn
Cohesiveness
fibers that cling together in a yarn
Worsted Wool Yarns
shorter, removed fibers
Insulation
fiber bulkiness creates pockets of "dead air space" to capture and hold body heat
Agitation
?
Wod
?
Lighter than Cellulosic Fibers
Protein Fibers
3 Conditions needed to produce natural felt from wool
Moisture, Heat, Agitation
Moisture
to swell the fiber and open the scales
Heat
to facilitate the fiber swelling
Protein Fibers
-somewhat flame resistant
- dye well
- resilient
Natural Crimp
wool fibers
specialty wool
from other animals such as goats, camels, llamas
Allergic Reaction
roughness of wool produces contact dermatitis
Grading
evaluating whole fleece according to fineness and length
Sorting
separate the individual fleece by fiber length and fineness
Scouring
treatment with 5% sodium hydroxide at 50C to remove oils from wool
"degreasing"
Lanolin
the natural oil recovered from scouring
-used for soaps and cosmetics
Carbonizing
treating with dilute acid to break down cellulosic materials caught in fleece
Carding
combing to align fiber before spinning and weaving
Fulling
finish to provide thicker structure
- put in warm water with soap or acid and agitation and shrinks to desired amount