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110 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Woven fabric |
are made by interlacing two sets of yarn at right angles to each other. |
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Warp yarns or Ends |
The length-wise yarns in woven fabric |
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Filling yarns or Picks |
The width-wise yarns in woven fabric |
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On grain |
The way that a fabric has been cut parallel to either the warp or filling yarns. |
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Off grain |
A direction not parallel to either the warp or filling yarns, which results in a skewed portion of the textile product. Or bias. Best drape because of the result of the bending and shifting of the yarns from the fabric weight. More stretchy. |
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Wrap beam |
Located at the back of the loom and is a larger roller on which all the wrap yarns to be used for fabric are parallel to each other.
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Harnesses |
That look like picture frames holding many thin vertical wires called heddles. |
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Shuttle |
A wooden deice with bobbin placed inside with filling yarn wound around it. |
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Shuttleless loom |
This loom employs various other devices to bring the filling yarn through the shed. The yarn comes directly from cones placed at the side of the loom, the yarn is cut often leaving a fringe at the edge of the fabric. |
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Projectile loom |
It uses a projectile to insert the filling yarns. A projectile is a small, light gripper device that is propelled across the loom, pulling the filling yarn behind it. |
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Rapier loom |
It uses a rapier rod or steel tape to pull the filling yarn across the loom or a double rapier where the filling yarn is transferred at the midway point from one rapier to the other. This loom is noted for a large range of patterns produced. Because the rapier rod is not in free flight as is a projectile, less strain is placed on the filling yarn. Thus fine or delicate yarns can be used. Double rapier looms are used commonly now. |
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Selvage |
It is a lengthwise edge of a fabric and exists on both edges of the cloth. The main purpose of the selvage is to ensure that edge of the fabric will not tear when the cloth is undergoing the stresses and strains of the finishing process. |
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(1) Heavier warp yarn (2) More warp yarns (3) Plied warp yarns (4) Grater twist, if spun wrap yarns (5) Different weave. |
Techniques which are used to make the selvage area stronger than the body of the cloth. |
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(1) Selvage. The warp yarns are always parallel to the selvage. (2) Yarn size. Usually the warp yarns are thinner. (3) Yarns per inch. Usually there are more warp yarns per inch than filling yarn. (4) Stripes. Most woven strip appear in the lengthwise direction, which makes people thinner. |
Techniques used for identifying warp yarns and filling yarns. |
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Any fabric in which the warp yarns or the filling yarns appear more on one side than on the other shows a difference between the face and back. |
The face and the back |
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Top and bottom |
A fabric with a woven or printed figure in an obviously upright position can be cut in only one direction because in every piece forming the garment, the figure must be in the upright position. This fabric has.... |
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80 yarns per inch in the warp and 74 yarns per inch in the filling |
Yarns per inch 80 × 74 YPI |
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Riser |
Weave the wrap yarn over the filing yarn |
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Sinker |
Weave the wrap yarn under the filling yarn |
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Float |
When one yarn does not interlace with the next adjacent yarn, but passes over two or more adjacent yarns, it is said to.... |
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Plain weave |
-No face and back -Require only two harnesses -Inexpensive -Used for medical products. -Each warp yarn passes alternately over one and then under one filling yarn, for whole length of the fabric. -Configuration ×○ ○× |
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Twill weaves |
-They produce diagonal lines on the cloth. -Denim, gabardine, serge, and chino. -Require three or more harnesses. -Expensive. -Stronger than a plain -Higher problem of snags |
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45° right-hand twill |
If each succeeding warp yarn to the right has corresponding interlacing one filling yarn higher, the weave is..... |
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2/1 45° Right - hand twill |
-Two raiser, one sinker -Unbalanced twill -Require three harnesses
○×× ××○ ×○× |
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1/2 45° Left - hand twill |
-Filling faced twill -You cannot use back as face |
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Satin Weave |
- Require more than 5 harnesses - Made of filament yarns, with the warp yarns predominant on the face. - Very lustrous - Long float |
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Sateen Weave |
- Made of staple/spun yarn - Filling face |
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Pile fabric |
The surface is produced with an extra set of yarns known as pile yarns. |
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Nap |
pile direction |
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Cut-pile fabric |
velvet |
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Uncut-pile fabric |
terry cloth The fabric consists of ground warp and filling yarns plus an extra set of wrap yarns for the pile, in the form of loops on the surface of the fabric. |
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Color-and-Weave Effect |
A pattern produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement of differently colored yarns in both the warp and the filling. Hounds-tooth plaid. |
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Broken-Twill Weave |
The twill lines usually run in one direction, sometimes a fabric combines right- and left- hand twills. |
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Dobby Pattern / dobby head |
A design that contains simple geometric forms or motifs. It is made on a loom with a special harness control mechanism called a ****. |
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Jacquard Pattern / Jacquard loom |
A design that contains very details, intricate motifs. That requires a special loom. We can control each individual yarn by computers. It is produced very slow. |
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Napped fabric |
A fibrous surface produced by brushing up fibers on the cloth during a textile finishing process. It is different from a pile fabric. |
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Commision knitter |
They produce products for a second party, who furnishes the yarn to them and receives the completed knit fabric or products. -Paid only for what they produce. -Never hold title to the yarns or product |
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Knitted end products |
Final products |
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Direct knitter |
They purchase yarn, knit products in their own names or trademarks. |
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Wales |
- Vertical column in knitted fabric |
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Needle bed |
The knitting needles are held in position by this, pieces of metal into which slots or grooves have been cut. |
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Courses |
Horizontal rows of stitches in knitted fabric. |
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Face: more smooth texture Back: easily pulled out |
How to identify the face and back of knitted habric |
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Circular knitting machine |
The knitting needles are in a circular configuration and the fabric produced in tubular in form. |
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Flat knitting machine |
The knitting needles are in a straight line, thus producing fabric comes off a loom. |
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Spring beard needle |
One of the knitting needles Only for warp knitting |
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Latch needle |
One of the knitting needles Only for weft knitting |
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Compound needle |
One of the knitting needles Only for warp knitting |
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Cut |
The number of slots per inch. The higher the cut, the more closely knit a fabric can be made; with more needle density, a higher wales-per-inch fabric can be made. |
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Gauge |
The needles per measured length in a knitting machine. The higher its number of the machine, the finer the fabric. |
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Knit stitch |
-Aka the plain stitch |
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Purl stitch |
Reverse of the knit stitch |
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Miss stitch |
It is created when one or more knitting needles are deactivated and do not move into position to accept a yarn.The yarn merely passes by and no stitch is formed. It can reduce weight, decrease cost. Used also for aesthetics. |
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Tuck stitch |
It is formed when a knitting needle holds its old loop and then receives a new yarn. Two loops then collect in the needle hook. It increase weight. Used also for aesthetics. |
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Weft knit |
For sweaters and hosiery. Yarn traverses side to side, interacting with the needles to form new fabric stitches. |
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Wrap knit |
A set of yarns traverses lengthwise, interacting with the needles to form new fabric stitches. |
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Jersey -Knit Fabrics |
One of the weft-knit fabric. AKA single knit or plain knit. knit stitches on face, purl stitches on back. Surface is very smooth. It can curl. |
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Rib-Knit Fabrics |
- One of the weft-knit fabric. - Knit stitches only in same wale, purl stitches on only in same wale. - It does not curl. - Greatly stretch in width. xoxox xoxox xoxox xoxox |
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xxxo |
3 x 1 rib knit stitch configuration x : plain o : purl
3 columns of plain knit 1 column of purl knit |
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Purl-Knit Fabrics |
- Knit and purl stitches in same wale. - Greatly stretch in length. oooooo xxxxxxx oooooo xxxxxxx |
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Full-fashioned knits |
- Needs a special machine. - Slow speed. - To shape sweater better around your shoulders. |
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Yarn guide bar |
- A part of the wrap knitting machine. - Each yarn is thread through this. - More these, more complex design. |
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- The back is zigzag - Limited stretch - do not run or break easily - Flat only - Slower and costly to new designs |
Characteristic of wrap knitted fabric |
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Tricot Fabrics |
One of the wrap knitted fabric, and most common. The machines are commonly equipped with from two to four yarn guide bars. |
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Raschel fabrics |
One of the wrap knitted fabric. made by 4 to more than 50 yarn guide bars. Lace like fabric can be made. open spacing. |
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Dyes |
aqueous dyeing |
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pigment |
micro-scopic-sized, insoluble colored particles |
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Depth of shade |
The darkness or lightness of color in dyeing. Simply based on weight fiber. |
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Affinity |
When a particular dye is capable of combining with fiber and can impart color to it, the dye has ______ for that fiber. |
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Lab lip |
a sample swatch of the finished dyeing |
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Metamerism |
When the two colors match each other under one light. |
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Macbeth Light Box |
(1) Day light (2) Incandescent bulb 白熱電球 (3) Fluorescent light 蛍光灯 (4) UV |
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Stock dyeing |
- Refers to the dyeing of fibers, or stock, before it is spun into yarn. - Best quality for natural fibers |
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Top dyeing |
- The dyeing of fiber before it is spun into yarn and serves the same purpose as stock dyeing. - For wool - Best constancy of shades |
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Piece dyeing |
- The dyeing of cloth after it has been woven or knitted. - Risk of color shade difference increases - Cheaper - Shorter time (20 days) |
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Package dyeing |
- One type of the yarn dyeing - Yarn is wound on a small perforated spool or tube called coan or ________. - The machine dye from the center and outside. - Color shade consistency is a little problem |
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Yarn dyeing |
- Shorter time (60 days) - Second most costly dyeing method. |
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Garment dyeing |
- The dyeing of completed garments. |
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Cross-Dyeing |
A type pf dyeing in which a yarn, a fabric or even a garment made with two or more generic fiber types having different dye affinities is dyed in a single bath congaing two different class of dyes. Each class of dye colors only one type of fiber. Two different colors can be dyed in one dye bath or either type of fiber may be dyed, leaving the other white. |
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Union dyeing |
The same as cross-dyeing except that instead of multicolor effects, one solid color is produced. The dyer accomplishes this by using two or more classes of dye, each of the same color.
One dye bath for three classes. No commercial use. Only for consumer use. |
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Dope dyeing |
- Solution dyeing - Part of the process of manufacturing fibers. - The coloring agent is added to the liquid spinning solution of manufactured fiber before it is extruded from a spinneret. The color becomes part of the fiber itself and is permanent. |
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Colorfastness |
The property of a dyed or printed textile to resist color loss or fading resulting from laundering, dry cleaning, sunlight, bleach, perspiration, environmental gases, and various other condition of use. |
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Crocking |
Failure to remove the excess and unreacted dye results in poor initial washfastness and excessive rubbing off of color |
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Spectrophotometer |
An instrument that measures the percent of light reflected at each wavelength in the visible spectrum by a colored surface. |
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Screen Printing |
This printing technique involves the preparation of a printing screen made from fine-mesh screen fabric of nylon, polyester, or metal tightly mounted on a frame or rolled into a cylinder.Printing is done by placing the screen on top of the fabric to be printed.
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Print registration |
The industry term to indicate when all of the colors of the print have been supplied to the fabric. |
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Hand - screen printing |
- One of the screen printing systems. Originally used by ancient culture, is still used today. - Produce 50-90 yards / hour |
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Automatic - screen printing |
- Referred to as flatbed printing. - Automated version of the hand-screen printing. - Produce 500 yards / hour |
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Rotary - screen printing |
- The most widely used method of screen printing. - Uses a cylinder or rotary configuration. - Produce 120 yards / minute |
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Heat - transfer printing |
- the principle of this printing is similar to familiar decal transfers. - the design is first printed on paper with printing inks containing dyes of the disperse dye class. - needs 1000 meters minimum to operate - this printing contributes to a different design effect. |
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digital printing |
- a little bit slow. - expensive - very economical for small production yardages or to make samples. |
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wet on wet |
printing of a second color over a previous color while still wet. when the second color goes over the first, the colors mix and a third color is produced. -the third color is referred to as fall on. |
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strike off |
- in printed fabrics, the first several sample yards are printed for approval prior to full scale production. |
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discharge print |
in the first step the fabric is piece-dyed a solid color. the second step the fabric design is printed onto the fabric. the print paste contains a bleach agent that destroys the color of the background dye. i.e white polka dots on a blue shirt. |
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resist printing |
use wax to protect parts of fabric from dye. |
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dry printing |
made with pigments rather than dyes. |
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flock printing |
tiny particles called fiber flocks are made to adhere to a fabric surface. |
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blotch prints |
background color has been created by printing rather than piece-dying. |
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flocking |
uses fiber flocks to cover the entire surface. - creates imitation velvet, suede, and plush. |
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permanent finishes |
chemical change in fiber structure and does not change throughout the life of the fabric. very expensive ex. fireman's uniform, racecar driver jacket |
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durable finishes |
usually lasts throughout life of the article but effectiveness wears out with each cleaning. |
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semidurable finishes |
lasts through several launderings and dry cleanings. |
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temporary finishes |
removed or substantially diminished the first time an article is laundered. ex. starch spray |
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pre treatment process |
consists of cleaning operations to rid the fabric of all soil and additives. ex. washing oil off of knitting machine. |
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desizing |
using enzymes to get rid of starch on yarns. |
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singeing |
burning off projecting fibers or filament splinters from the surface of the fabric. |
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calendering |
process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed or high pressure.
can make a twill like fabric. |
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mercerization |
the finish imparts luster to cotton, increases strength, and increases dye affinity. |
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resins |
chemical group applied as wet finishes. main ingredient for many crease-resistant fabrics. |
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aesthetic finishes |
changes durability, hand and finish of fabric. |
