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379 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
natural cellulosic fibers
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cotton, flax, ramie, hemp, jute, pina
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seed fiber
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cotton
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bast fiber
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flax, ramie, hemp, jute
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leaf fiber
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pina
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the most important apparel fiber
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cotton
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properties of cellulosic fibers
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good absorbency, good conductor of heat, ability to withstand high temp, low resiliency, good conductors of electricity, heavy fibers, harmed by mineral acids, min damage by organic acids, flammable
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characteristics of cotton
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-comfort
-easy care -durability -good abrasion resistance -poor resiliency -moderate elastic recovery |
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fiber size of cotton
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staple
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3 groups of cotton
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-upland cottons
-long-staple cottons -short-staple cottons |
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3 types of long-staple cotton
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-Egyptian
-Sea Island -Pima |
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cotton fiber is made up of...
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-cuticle
-primary wall -secondary wall -lumen |
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wax like film covering the primary wall
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cuticle
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central canal through which nourishment travels during fiber development
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lumen
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ribbon like twists that characterize cotton
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convultions
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cotton is ____% cellulose
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94%
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a type of cotton that is altered using chemical treatments or finishes
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mercerized cotton
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mercerized cotton increases _______ and improves the _________ of cotton yarns and fabrics
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absorbency; dyeability
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cotton appearance
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matte, low luster, soft hand
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cotton is 30% ______ when wet
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stronger
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cotton produced following state fiber certification standards on land where organic farming practices have been used for at least 3 years
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organic cotton
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cotton produced on land where organic farming is practiced, but the 3 year min. has not been met
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transition cotton
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describes cotton fabric that has been washed with mild natural based soap but has not been bleached or treated with other chemicals
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green cotton
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come from the stem of the plant, near the outer edge
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bast fibers
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one of the oldest textile fibers
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flax
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a fabric made from flax
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linen
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characteristics of flax
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-body
-strength -low pilling and linting -pleasant hand -thick and thin texture |
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flax can be identified by its ______.
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nodes
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joints that contribute to flexibility
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nodes
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short flax fibers
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tow
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long flax fibers
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line (better quality)
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flax appearance
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high natural luster
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other characteristics of flax
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poor elasticity, stiff, nodes contribute to flexibility but also weakest part of fiber, good abrasion resistance, high moisture regain, good conductor of electricity, good conductor of heat, resistant to alkalis, organic solvents, and high temps, can be bleached
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a white, long, fine fiber with a silk like luster; one of the strongest natural fibers; strength increases when wet
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ramie
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resembles flax, coarser and stiffer than flax, resistance to rotting; environmentally friendly
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hemp
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one of the cheapest textile fibers; poor elasticity and elongation; produces sugar, coffee bags, rope, etc.
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jute
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obtained from the leaves of the pineapple; soft, lustrous, and white
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Pina
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fibers of animal origin
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natural protein fibers
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protein fibers
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wool, silk
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protein of wool
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keratin
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protein of silk
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fibroin
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natural protein fibers absorb ______ without feeling _______; they are ________
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moisture; wet; hygroscopic
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fibers have the ability to be shaped by heat and moisture; good moisture absorption without feeling wet; excellent heat retention; water repellency; feltablity; flame retardent
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wool
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one of the earliest fiber to be spun into yarns and woven into cloth
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wool
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one of the most widely used textile fibers before the Industrial Revolution
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wool
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sheep whose fleece contains no kemp fiber; produce most valuable wool
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merino
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newly removed wool
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raw or grease wool
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removing impurities in wool
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clean or scoured wool
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in wool, grease is purified to ______
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lanolin
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wool from animals less than 7 months old
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lamb's wool
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scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that are garnetted back to the fibrous state and reused
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recycled wool
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recycled wool is not as...
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resilient, strong, and durable as new wool
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refers to a compact yarn and implies longer fibers and greater uniformity of fiber length after it undergoes a combing process
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worsted
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describes a softer and more loosely twisted yarn and implies shorter, less uniform in length, and less parallel fibers
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woolen
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a microscopic honey comb-like core containing air spaces that increase the insulating power of the fiber
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medulla
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the main part of the fiber (wool)
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cortex
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the wool cuticle contains _____
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scales
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combines agitation, friction, and pressure with heat and moisture to shrink the fabric
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felting
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wool appearance
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loft, body, matte appearance
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characteristics of wool
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durable, abrasion resistance, hygroscopic, poor conductor of heat, very resilient, maintains its shape well, excellent elastic recovery, does not soil readily, weaker when wet, burns slowly and self extinguishes, damaged by bleach, environmentally friendly
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hair fiber of the Angora goat
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Mohair
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newly removed wool
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raw or grease wool
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removing impurities in wool
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clean or scoured wool
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in wool, grease is purified to ______
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lanolin
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wool from animals less than 7 months old
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lamb's wool
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scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that are garnetted back to the fibrous state and reused
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recycled wool
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recycled wool is not as...
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resilient, strong, and durable as new wool
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refers to a compact yarn and implies longer fibers and greater uniformity of fiber length after it undergoes a combing process
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worsted
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describes a softer and more loosely twisted yarn and implies shorter, less uniform in length, and less parallel fibers
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woolen
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a microscopic honey comb-like core containing air spaces that increase the insulating power of the fiber
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medulla
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the main part of the fiber (wool)
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cortex
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the wool cuticle contains _____
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scales
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combines agitation, friction, and pressure with heat and moisture to shrink the fabric
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felting
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wool appearance
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loft, body, matte appearance
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characteristics of wool
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durable, abrasion resistance, hygroscopic, poor conductor of heat, very resilient, maintains its shape well, excellent elastic recovery, does not soil readily, weaker when wet, burns slowly and self extinguishes, damaged by bleach, environmentally friendly
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hair fiber of the Angora goat; fibers are slightly coarse; very sislient
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Mohair
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hair of the Angora rabbit
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Angora
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obtained from the two-humped Bactrian camel
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camel's hair
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produced by a small goat
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cashmere
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rare wild animals of the South American camel
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vicuna and guanaco
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universally accepted as a luxury fiber
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silk
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water-soluble protective gum of silk
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sericin
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silk-in-the-gum
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raw silk
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silk where the production is not controlled
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wild silk
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the most common type of wild silk
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Tussah
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silk that results when two silkworms spin their cocoons together; yarn is irregular in diameter with a thick and thin appearance
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duppioni
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describes the weight of silk
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momme
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only natural filament fiber
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silk
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silk appearance
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can be dyed and printed in brilliant colors; luster is soft; wild silk has a duller luster and less regular surfaces with the presence of sericin
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silk treated with metallic salts
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weighting
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characteristics of silk
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moderate abrasion resistance; one of the strongest natural fibers; weaker when wet; good absorbency; poor conductor of heat; moderate resistance to wrinkling; fibers do not shrink; resistant to dilute mineral acids and organic acids
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characteristics of wild silk
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not as durable, wrinkles more easily
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any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is not a fiber
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manufactured fiber
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two types of manufactured fibers
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-regenerated
-synthetic |
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cellulosic manufactured fibers
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acetate; rayon; lyocell
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noncellulosic and synthetic manufactured fibers
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acrylic; aramid; lastol; modacrylic; nylon; olefin; polyester; rubber; spandex; vinyon; vinol
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mineral manufactured fibers
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glass; metallic
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raw materials of manufactured fibers are made into thick solutions called spinning solutions or ______
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dope
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the addition of colored pigments or dyes to the spinning solution; fiber is colored when it emerges from the spinneret
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solution dyeing or mass pigmentation
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added to the spinning solution to make fibers look whiter and resist yellowing
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whiteners and brighteners
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made by incorporating dye-accepting chemicals into the molecular structure
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cross-dyeable fibers
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a fiber consisting of two polymers that are chemically different, physically different, or both
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bicomponent fiber
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the first regenerated cellulosic fiber
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rayon
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high performance rayon
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High-wet modulus rayon or HWM rayon
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regular rayon produced in the US
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viscose rayon
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viscose rayon is characterized by its _______; lengthwise lines
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striations
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characteristics of rayon
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high absorbent; soft; comfortable; easy to dye; versatile; unique soft drape; weaker when wet; low elastic recovery; low resiliency; limited washability; harmed by acids; resistant to dilute alkalies; not affected by organic solvents; not recycled
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the development of this fiber was due to rayon's negative environmental impact
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lyocell
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lyocell is ____% cellulose
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100%
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properties of lycell
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more like those of cotton; soft, flowing drape; good strength, absorbency, and opacity; comfort, smooth; moderate resiliency; sensitive to acids and resistant to alkalies and most organic solvents; not recycled
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strongest of the cellulosic fibers
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lyocell
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first thermoplastic or heat sensitive fiber
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acetate
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and acetate that contains no hydroxyl groups
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triacetate
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a problem with acetate is _______ _________
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fume fading
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a condition in which certain disperse eyes changed color when exposed to atmospheric fumes
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fume or pollution fading
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acetate is available as ______ or ______
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staple; filament
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properties of acetate
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low cost; good draping;"beauty fiber"; maintains a good white color; weak fiiber; loses some strength when wet; extremely soft; thermal retention is poor; not very resislient and wrinkle; should be dry cleaned; resistant to weak acids and to alkalis; can be bleached; thermoplastic and heat sensitive
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______ and ______ are the two oldest manufactured fibers
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rayon; acetate
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refers to fibers that soften or melt with heat
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heat sensitivity
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those fibers that scorch or decompose
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heat resistant
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the melting and flattening of yarns and fibers exposed to excess heat; used in finishing to produce deliberate texture and surface effects
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glazing
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aligns the molecules in a more parallel arrangement and brings them closer together so they are more crystalline and oriented
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drawing
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process that uses heat to stabilize yarns or fabrics made of heat sensitive fibers
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heat setting
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the first synthetic fiber and the first fiber produced in the United States
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nylon
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properties of nylon
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strong, more resistant to abrasion, excellent elasticity, could be heat-set, static build up, poor hand. poor comfort, low resistance to sunlight, light weight; low absorbency; excellent resistance to alkali and chlorine bleaches but is damged by strong acids
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nylon is available in _________, _______, _______, and _________
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multifilament, monofilament, staple, and tow
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regular nylon has a _______ cross section and is perfectly _______
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round; uniform
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nylon carpets have a cross section of _______with _______ to give good _______ - _______ characteristics
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squares; voids; soil-hiding
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one of the lightest fibers on the market
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nylon
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one of the most widely used fibers in the United States
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nylon
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first polyester fiber
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Terylene
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properties of polyster
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outstanding wet and dry resiliency; excellent dimensional stability; workhorse fiber of the industry; fibers are melt spun; blends well; low absorbency; little comfort; more prone to static problems; high recovery rate; do not shrink and resist wrinkling; resistant to both acids and alkalis; can be bleached; recycled
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most widely used manufactured and synthetic fiber
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polyester
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properties of Olefin
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good for furnishings; strong and resistant to abrasion; inexpensive; chemically inert; thermoplastic; static resistant
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two processes used to create olefin
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-high pressure system
-low pressure system |
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olefins are produced as ________, ________, _______, ________, and _________ or ________ film yarns with variable tendencies
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multifilament; monofilament; staple fiber; tow; slit; fibrillated
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two types of olefin
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-polyethylene
-polypropylene |
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more properties of Olefin
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medium luster; smooth texture; waxy hand; good abrasion resistance; durable and strong; nonabsorbant; excellent wicking abilities; good heat retention; reistance to acids, alkalis, insects, and microorganisms; low melting point
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an elastic olefin, is a generic subclass fiber with superior stretch and recovery properties compared to other olefin fibers
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lastol
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properties of acrylic
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soft; warm; lightweight; resilient; "warm without weight"; attractive with soft hand; imitate woold fabrics; not as durable as nylon, polyester, or olefin; surface is less regular; moderately comfortable; resists wrinkling; cannot be heat set; good resistance to most chemicals
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modified acrylics first produced in United States in 1949
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modacrylic fibers
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the first inherently flame retardant synthetic
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modacrylic
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modacrylic's cross sectoin
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dog bone shaped
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properties of modacrylic
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furlike fabrics; wigs; less durable than acrylics; elastic recovery is better than acrylics; poor conductors of heat; soft; warm; and resilient; tendency to pill; low absorbency; resistant to acids, weak alkalis, and most organic solvents; less of an impact on environment than acrylic
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first manufactured elastic fiber
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Lycra (Spandex)
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properties of Spandex
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superior to rubber in strength and durability; monofilament or multifilament; seldom used alone in fabrics; dyeability; good strength; more resistant to degredation than ruber; resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions, and cosmetics; uncomfortable; resistant to dilute acids, alkalis, bleaches, and dry-cleaning solvents; thermoplastic; superior aging resistance
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an elastic cross-liked copolymer olefin with low but significant crystllinity, composed of at least 95% by weight of ethylene
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lastol
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an aromatic polyamide fiber
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aramid
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properties of aramid
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exceptional heat and flame resistancel good strength and fire resistance; can be wet or dry spun; dog bone shape cross section; high tenacity and high resistance to stretch and high temps; maintains its shape and form at high temps; resistant to most chemicals; oleophilic and prone to static build up; lightweight and fatigue; damage resistant
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an incombustible textile fiber; it does not burn
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glass
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properties of glass
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draperies for public buildings; severe skin irritation; brittle; exhibit poor flex abrasion resistance; break when bent; very heavy; high specific gravity (2.69); nonabsorbent and resistant to sunlight; flameproof
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properties of metallic fibers
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add a decorative touch; ironing is a problem; help reduce static; heavy; cannot bend without permanent crease
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two processes to produce metallic fibers
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laminating process
metalizing process |
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a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or materials in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise interwining to form a textile fabric
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yarn
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made from manufactured fibers, except for the tiny percentage that is filament silk
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filament yarns
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fibers that are uniform as they come from the spinneret
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smooth filament yarns
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yarns primarily used for industrial uses; made of a single coarse-filament fiber
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monofilament yarns
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inexpensive yarns produced from extruded polymer films
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tape yarns
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a yarn that has been processed to have greater covering power or apparent volume than that of a conventional yarn of equal linear density
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bulk yarns
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yarns that include any continuous filmanet yarn whose smooth, straight fibers have been displaced from their closely packed, parallel position by the introduction of some form of crimp, curl, loop, or coil
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bulk continuous filament yarns (BCF)
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processes to create texture to yarns
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-false twist
-draw texturing -stuffer box -air jet -knit-deknit |
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yarns formed from inherently bulky manufactured fiber that are hollow along part or all of their length or from fibers that cannot be closely packed because of their cross sectional shape, fiber alignment, stiffness, resilience, or natural crimp
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bulky yarns
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thermoplastic filament spun yarns with a high degree of potential elastic stretch, rapid recovery, and a high degree of yarn curl
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stretch yarns
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filament or spun yarns with notably greater apparent volume than a conventional yarn of similar filament count and linear density
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textured yarns
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continuous strands of staple fibers held together in some way
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spun yarns
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loosens, cleans, and blends the fibers
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opening
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partially aligns the fibers and forms them into a thin web that is brought together as a soft, very weak rope of fibers called carded sliver
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carding
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increases the parallelism of the fibers and combines several carded or combed slivers into one drawn sliver
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drawing
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produces a yarn that is superior to a carded yarn in smoothness, fineness, evenness, and strength; aligns fibers in a parallel arrangment
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combing
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reduces the drawn sliver, increases the parallel alignment of the fibers, and inserts a small amount of twist in the strand
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roving
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spinning that consists of a series of operations designed to clean and make parallel staple fibers, draw them out into a fine strand, and twist them to keep them together and give them strength
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ring spinning
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adds a yarn twist
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spinning
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eliminates the formation of the roving
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open-end roving spinning
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yarns that are essentially free from stretch
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high-bulk yarns
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an intimate mixture of fibers of different generic type, composition, length, diameter, or color spun together into one yarn
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blend
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yarns of different generic types within a fabric
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mixture
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yarn composed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together, resulting in a fuzzy yarn with protruding fiber ends
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spun yarn
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yarn composed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twisted together
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filament yarn
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uniformly bulky yarns
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textured-bulk filament yarns
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the spiral arrangement of the fibers around the yarn's axis
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twist
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this twist produces lofty spun yarns
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napping twist
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twist used most commonly for yarns made of staple fibers
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average twist
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twist that have a harsher hand and more turns per inch
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hard or voile twist
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yarns that have the highest number of turns per inch inserted in the yarn
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crepe yarns
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yarns size or fineness
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yarn number
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describes yarn size using filament fibers
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denier
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yarn has one strand and is in its simplest form
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single yarn
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yarn made by a second twisting operation that combines two or more singles
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ply yarn
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yarn made my a third twisting operation
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cord
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yarn intended for stitching materials together using machine or hand processes
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sewing thread
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yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and that are irregular at intervals
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fancy yarns
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yarns that produce an interesting or novel effect in fabrics
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novelty yarns
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a pliable, planelike structure that can be made into two or three dimensional products that require some shaping and flexibility
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fabric
|
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yarns running in the lengthwise direction
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warp
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yarns running crosswise
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filling
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warp yarns are wound onto a _______ ______; the _______ is a frame to hold the heddles; a _______ is a wire with a hole through which a warp yarn is threaded; the yarns form a _______, a space through which the filling is inserted; and then the ________; the _______ pushes the filling yarn into place to make the fabric firm
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warp beam; harness; heddle; shed; shuttles; reed
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refers to the geometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns in the fabric
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grain
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the simplest of the three basic weaves; right angles passing alternately over and under each other; 1/1 weave; no technical face or back
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plain weave
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warp and filling yarns are the same size and the same distance apart so that they show equally on the surface
|
balanced plain weave
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lightweight, sheer, plain weave
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ninon, georgette, chiffon, voile. organdy, organza
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lightweight, opaque, plain weave
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lawn, batiste, china silk, habutai, challi
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low count, sheer, plain
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cheesecloth, crinoline, buckram, gauze, bunting
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medium weight, plain
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print cloth, percale, calico, chintz, polished cotton, muslin, flannelette, outting flannel, gingham, chambray, madras
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heavyweight, plain
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weaver's cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap, osnaburg, flannel, tweed
|
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there are significantly more yarns in one direction than the other
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unbalanced plain weave
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can be produced by increasing the reed pressure or by changing yarn size
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ribs
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occurs when one set of yarns gets pushed to one side and exposes the yarns that are normally covered
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slippage
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lightweight, ribbed
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crepe de chine
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medium weight, ribbed
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broadcloth, taffeta, shantung
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heavyweight, ribbed
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poplin, faille, rep, bengaline, ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord
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made with two or more adjacent warps controlled by the same harness, and with two or more fillings placed in teh same shed
|
basket weave
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basket weaves
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dimity, oxford cloth, sailcloth,duck, canvas, hopsacking, monk's cloth
|
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each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line
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twill weave
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characteristics of twill weave
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have a technical face and a technical back; technical face has most pronounced wale; fabrics are softer and more pliable and recover better from wrinkles as compared with plain-weave fabrics
|
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twill weaves
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serge, twill flannel, sharkskin, herringbone, houndstooth
|
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have a predominance of warp yarns on the face of the fabric; stronger and more resistant to abrasion
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warp-faced twills
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warp-faced twills
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denim, jean, drill, covert, chino, garbadine, cavalry twill
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each warp yarn gloats over four filling yarns(4/1) and interlaces with the fifth filling yarn with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or the left
|
satin weave
|
|
characteristics of satin weaves
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lustrous; checkerboard designs; no two interlacings are adjacent; have a face and a back that look significantly different; satin is almost always warp-faced
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warp satin
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satin, crepe back satin
|
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filling satin
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sateen
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woven figures made by changing the interlacing pattern between the design area and the background
|
fancy weaves
|
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small figured designs that require fewer than 225 different warp arrangements to complete one repeat of the design
|
dobby weaves
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dobby weaves
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bird's eye; huck; waffle cloth; madras
|
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additional warp or filling yarns of different colors or types are woven into the fabric to create a pattern
|
extra yarn weave
|
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extra yarn weaves
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clipped spot, clipped dot designs, swivel dot fabrics
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weave produces a fabric with ridges that are held up by floats on the back
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pique
|
|
pique weaves
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wide-wale pique. pinwale pique, bedford cord, bird's-eye pique, bull's eye pique
|
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large figured designs that require more than 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete one repeat design
|
jacquard weaves
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jacquard weaves
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damask, brocade, brocatelle, jacquard tapestry, wilton rugs
|
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a weave that presents no wale or other distinct weave effect but gives the cloth the appearance of being sprinkled with small spots or seeds
|
momie weave
|
|
momie weave is also called
|
granite or crepe weave
|
|
momie weaves
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sand crepe, granite cloth, moss crepe, bark cloth
|
|
a weave in which the warp yarns do not lie parallel to each other; warp yarns work in groups, usually pairs of two; one yarn of each pair is crossed over the other before the filling yarn is inserted
|
leno weave
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|
leno weaves
|
marquisette
|
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made from three or more sets of yarns; two sides of fabric usually look different because of the fabrication method; tend to be heavier and have more body than single cloths
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double cloth
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made with five sets of yarns; two fabrics woven one above the other on the same look with the fifth yarn interlacing with both clothes; can be seperated by pulling out the yarns holding the two layers; refers both to fabrics made with three or more yarn sets and to specific fabrics made with five yarn sets
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double cloth
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double cloths
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melton, kersey
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made with four sets of yarns creating two separate layers of fabric that periodically reverse position from top to bottom, thus interlocking the two layers of fabric; creates pockets in the fabric
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double weave
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doubles weaves
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matelasse
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made with three sets of yarns; two warp and one filling or two sets of filling and one set of warp; blankets, satin ribbons, silence cloth...
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double-faced fabrics
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three dimensional structures made by weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns into the ground yarns to make loops or cut ends on the surface
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woven-pile fabrics
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made by long filling floats on the surface that are cut after weaving
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filling-pile fabrics
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filling-pile fabrics
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corduroy, velveteen
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made with two sets of warp yarns and one set of filling; the extra set of warp yarns from the pile that can be cut or uncut
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warp-pile fabrics
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warp-pile fabrics
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velvet
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velvet can also be made using the ______ _______ method
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double-cloth
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pile with a ____ shape interlaces with more fillings yarns, is more resistance to shedding, is less dense, and more durable
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W
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a single cloth is woven with wires placed across the width of te loom so that they are positioned above the ground warp and under the pile warp
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over-wire method
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over-wire method fabrics
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frieze
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two warp beams are used; the yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the other beam are held at slack tension; slack yarns crinkle or buckle to form a puckered stripe
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slack-tension weave
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slack tension weaves
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terrycloth, seersucker
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a hand produced, filling faced, plain weave fabric; the discontinuous yarns are arranged so that as the color in the weave changes, a pattern is created
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tapestry weave
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________ _________ weaves usually have larger filling yarns than warp yarns
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true tapestry
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a fabrication process in which needles are used to form a series of interlocking loops from one ore more yarns or from a set of yarns
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knitting
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filling is also called ______ in kniting
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weft
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_______ are vertical columns of stitches in the knit fabric
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wales
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_______ are horizontal rows in the knit fabric
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courses
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used to created a pattern in the fabric; old stitch is not cleared from the needle, two stitches on the needle
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tuck stitch
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used to create a pattern; no new stitch is formed at the needle
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float stitch
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a fabric that looks the same on both sides us this stitch
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purl or reverse stitch
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made using a circular or flatbed machine with one set of needles; can be any pattern or weight; less stable than double knits, tend to curl and run readily
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single-filling knits
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simplest form of the filling-knit structures; wales easier to see on front
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single-jersey fabric
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a fabric of lightweight to heavyweight; usually knit on a circular jersey machine and sold in tubular form or cut and sold as flat goods
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jersey
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a high quality jersey made of fine two ply yarns
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lisle
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simplest of knit pattern fabrics; pattern develops because different stitch types, yarn colors, or a combination
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jacquard jersey
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a more complicated patterned single knit fabric
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intarsia
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made on a modified circular jersey machine; looks like woven pile but are more pliable and stretchy
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pile jersey
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pile jersey surface may consist of either ____________ or _____________
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-cut or uncut loops of yarn
-fibers |
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pile jersey fabrics
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knitted terrycloth, velour, sliver-pile knits
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an untwisted rope of fiber made by carding, drawing, or coming
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sliver
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_______ are vertical columns of stitches in the knit fabric
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wales
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_______ are horizontal rows in the knit fabric
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courses
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used to created a pattern in the fabric; old stitch is not cleared from the needle, two stitches on the needle
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tuck stitch
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used to create a pattern; no new stitch is formed at the needle
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float stitch
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a fabric that looks the same on both sides us this stitch
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purl or reverse stitch
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made using a circular or flatbed machine with one set of needles; can be any pattern or weight; less stable than double knits, tend to curl and run readily
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single-filling knits
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simplest form of the filling-knit structures; wales easier to see on front
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single-jersey fabric
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a fabric of lightweight to heavyweight; usually knit on a circular jersey machine and sold in tubular form or cut and sold as flat goods
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jersey
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a high quality jersey made of fine two ply yarns
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lisle
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simplest of knit pattern fabrics; pattern develops because different stitch types, yarn colors, or a combination
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jacquard jersey
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a more complicated patterned single knit fabric
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intarsia
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made on a modified circular jersey machine; looks like woven pile but are more pliable and stretchy
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pile jersey
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pile jersey surface may consist of either ____________ or _____________
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-cut or uncut loops of yarn
-fibers |
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pile jersey fabrics
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knitted terrycloth, velour, sliver-pile knits; fake furs
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an untwisted rope of fiber made by carding, drawing, or coming
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sliver
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another yarn is laid in a course as it is being knit
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weft-insertion jersey
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weft insertion jersey fabrics
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french terry, fleece
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width of fabric is decreased; used to shape parts like armholes, neckline curves, collar points, and finish edges
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fashioning
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made using a machine with two beds of needles; may be made with one or more sets of yarns
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double-filling knits
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two beds are positioned so that both needles can knit at the same time
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rib gaiting
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needles are positioned so that only one needle bed can knit at a time
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interlock gaiting
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both needle beds are on the same plane so that the double latch needle can travel between the two beds
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purl gaiting
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made of face wales and back wales; lengthwise ridges are formed on both sides of the fabric by pulling stitches first to the face and next to the back of the fabric in adjacent tor groups of stitches
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rib structure
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looks the same on both sides; made with rib gaiting
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double-knit jersey
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simplest double-knit fabric produced using interlock gaiting; composed of two 1x1 rib structures; two sides look alike and resemble the face of single jersey; runs more easily
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interlock
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have almost limitless design possibilities; interlacing of two yarns in the same as for the double-knit jersey but with added needle-selecting mechanisms
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jacquard double knits
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usually made on machines with two needles beds and double latch needles with purl gaiting
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purl knits
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warp knit fabric; the face of the fabric is formed of the vertical portion of loops; the back has the horizontal portion of loops; does not ravel
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tricot knit
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have fibers raised from the surface, feels like velvet
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brushed or napped tricots
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a hexagonal net used for veiling, support fabrics, and overlays for apparel
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tulle
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have rows of chainlike loops called pillars, with laid in yarns in various lapping configurations; one or two needle beds with latch needles set in a vertical position
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raschel-warp knits
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raschel-warp knits
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lace, thermal cloth, power net
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the inserted yarn is caught in a vertical chain of stitching
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warp-insertion warp knits
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this fabric is made from two sets of warp yarns, with one needle bar and one guide bar; the lapping movements move so that each warp yarn travels across the full width of the fabric,this produces a diagonal formation
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milanese
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made directly from polymer solution by melt-extrusion or by casting the solution onto a hot drum
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films
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three types of films
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-plain
-expanded -supported films |
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made by incorporating air into an elasticlike substance; bulkiness and sponginess
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foams
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most common type of foam
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polyurethane
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fabrics that are not made from yarn
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nonwovens
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spun-laid webs made immediately after fibers are extruded from spinnerets; continuous hot filaments are laid down in a random fashion on a fast-moving conveyor belt and their semimelted state fuse together at their cross points; high tensile and tear strength and low bulk
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spun-bonded
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products from spun-bonded
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carpet backings, geotextiles, adhesive carriers, protective apparel, insulation
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similar to spun-bonded except that jets of water are forced through the web, shattering the filaments into staple fibers and producing a wovenlike structure; greater elasticity and flexibility
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spun-laced
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spun-laced products
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medical gowns and drapes, roofing substrates, mattress pads
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consists of passing a dry-laid web over a needle loom as many time as is necessary to produce the desired strength and texture
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needle punching
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a mat or web of wool, or mostly wool, fibers held together by the interlocking of the wool scares; one of the oldest methods of making fabrics
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felt
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narrow fabrics in which yarns interlace lengthwise and diagonally; good elongation characteristics and are very pliable
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braids
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another basic fabric made from yarns using several different fabrication methods; may be twisted around each other to create open areas; an open network fabric with complex fabrics or figures
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lace
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combines a textile fabric with a polymer film; film protects from environmental factors
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coated fabric
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a fine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been produced; used to imitate extra yarn weaves or all-over to imitate pile fabrics
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flocking
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a process of making pile fabrics by stitching extra yarns into a fabric base or substrate
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tufting
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refers to the distance in inches between the tufting needles
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gauge
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fabrics in which two layers of fabric are combined into one with an adhesive of foam
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laminates
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usually refers to a fabric in which an adhesive was used
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laminate
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usually refers to a fabric in which a foam was used
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bonded
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3 methods of bonding
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-wet-adhesive method
-foam-flame method -hot-melt or dry-heat method |
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combine textile structures by adhering fabric layers with fiber or yarn loops, chemical adhesives, or fusion of thermoplastic fibers
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stitch bonded fabrics
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composite fabrics consisting of three layers: face fabric, fiberfill or batting, and backing fabric
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quilted fabrics
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characteristics of laminated fabrics
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-two ore more fabrics are adhered together by a wet or hot melt adhesive or foam flame process
-less expensive than double weave or double knit -gives warmth without weight -produces lightweight fabrics for outerwear |
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characteristics of quilts
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-one or two fabrics and fiberfill, wading, batting, or foam stitched together by machine or by hand or are welded by sonic vibrations
-bulky, warm, and decorative -quilted fabrics are used in ski jackets, robes, quilts, and upholstery |
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processed from skins and hides of animals, reptiles, fish, and birds
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leather
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a popular leather for coats, jackets, etc.; soft, dull surface usually is made by napping on the flesh side or on one side of a split to pull up the fibers
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suede
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any animal skin or part of an animal skin to which the hair, fleece, or fur fibers are attached
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fur
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any process that is done to fiber, yarn, or fabric either before or after fabrication to change the appearance, the hand, or the performance
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finish
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fabrics that have been produced but have received no wet or dry finishing operations
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grey goods
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burns ends of fibers projecting from the surface
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singeing
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sizing added to the warp yarns in the slashing step is removed
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desizing
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use of a cellulase enzyme treatment to remove surface fuzz from spun yarns
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bio-polishing
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general term referring to removal of foreign matter or soil from fabric prior to finishing or dyeing
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scouring
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process of whitening fibers, yarns, or fabrics by removing irregular natural color
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bleaching
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used to whiten off-white fabrics
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optical brighteners
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process of treating a cellulosic fabric or yarn with an alkali
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mercerization
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steps in producing a fabric
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1) fiber processing
2) yarn processing 3) yarn preparation 4) fabrication 5) fabric preparation 6) whitening 7) further preparation steps 8) coloration 9) finishing 10) reworking |
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one of the most important finishing operations, applies crosswise and lengthwise tension to a fabric while it dries; function is to produce fabric that meets specifications for width and width uniformity, and warp and filling count
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tentering
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fabric is usually placed on a tenter frame and passed through an oven, where the time of exposure and the temp are carefully controlled based on the fiber content and resins added to the fabric
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heat setting
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a mechanical finishing operation performed by a series of rollers between which the fabric passes; simple calendar produces a smooth, flat, ironed finish on the fabric
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calendering
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types of calendering
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simple, friction, moire, schreiner, embossing
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includes inspecting fabric for defects or flaws and repairing those problems wherever possible
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reworking
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corrects flaws marked by inspectors
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repairing
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a wool-finishing process used to set wool fabrics
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crabbing
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produces a smooth, wrinkle free finish and lofty hand on woolen and worsted fabrics and on blends of wool and manufactured fibers
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decating
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treatment of wool yarns or fabrics with sulfuric acid, destroys plant matter in the fabric and allows for more level dyeing
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carbonizing
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used with wool or wool blends; fabric is placed between metal plates that steam and press the fabric
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pressing
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a finishing chemical is added to the fabric
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additive finishes
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something is removed from the fabric during finishing
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subtractive finishes
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produce a change in a fabric's light reflectance
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luster finishes
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produces a highly glazed surface
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friction calendar
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similar to a glazed finish, except that the metal roll is hot; produces greater luster
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cire finish
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very thin layer of polymer added to the dyed fabric
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plasticize finish
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have a wood grain or watermarked appearance
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moire finish
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two layers of unbalanced plain-weave rib fabric such as taffeta or faille are placed face to face so that the ribs of the top layer are slightly off-grain in relation to the underlayer
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true moire
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have a softer luster than most of the other luster finishes
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schreiner calender
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created using an embossing calender that produces either flat or raised designs on the fabric
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embossed fabrics
|
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transparent or parchment effects in cotton fabrics are produced by treatment with sulfuric acid
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parchmentizing
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produced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of fibers from different groups, leaving sheer areas
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burned-out
|
|
produces a smooth, wrinkle free finish and lofty hand on woolen and worsted fabrics and on blends of wool and manufactured fibers
|
decating
|
|
treatment of wool yarns or fabrics with sulfuric acid, destroys plant matter in the fabric and allows for more level dyeing
|
carbonizing
|
|
used with wool or wool blends; fabric is placed between metal plates that steam and press the fabric
|
pressing
|
|
a finishing chemical is added to the fabric
|
additive finishes
|
|
something is removed from the fabric during finishing
|
subtractive finishes
|
|
produce a change in a fabric's light reflectance
|
luster finishes
|
|
produces a highly glazed surface
|
friction calendar
|
|
similar to a glazed finish, except that the metal roll is hot; produces greater luster
|
cire finish
|
|
very thin layer of polymer added to the dyed fabric
|
plasticize finish
|
|
have a wood grain or watermarked appearance
|
moire finish
|
|
two layers of unbalanced plain-weave rib fabric such as taffeta or faille are placed face to face so that the ribs of the top layer are slightly off-grain in relation to the underlayer
|
true moire
|
|
have a softer luster than most of the other luster finishes
|
schreiner calender
|
|
created using an embossing calender that produces either flat or raised designs on the fabric
|
embossed fabrics
|
|
transparent or parchment effects in cotton fabrics are produced by treatment with sulfuric acid
|
parchmentizing
|
|
produced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of fibers from different groups, leaving sheer areas
|
burned-out
|