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103 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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What is Product Development?
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the strategic, creative, technical and production planning of goods with a perceived value for a well-defined user group
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What is the “apparel supply chain”?
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The network of fiber, textile and findings (trim, thread, labels) suppliers; apparel product developers; manufacturers and contractors; and all the channels of apparel distribution that work together to deliver apparel products to the consumer
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what is the linear apparel supply chain?
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-agriculture
- fiber production -textile production - apparal design/manufacturing -retail -end consumer |
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do todays suply chain members function as an integrated unit or as undependent businiesses?
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integrated units
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true or false- today,products are more geared toward niche markets
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ture
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what dose an Agile Manufacturing Environment demand?
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that companies identify their core competencies and partner with other specialists to support the development and distribution of goods
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what are some examples of Auxiliary Businesses?
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Forecasting Services
Agents Factors (credit agents) Testing Labs Software Providers Distribution/Warehousing Color Labs |
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what is the purpose of an auxiliary business?
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to provide expertise that improves the efficiency of the entire chain
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define Growth industry and give an example
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they produce products that have not yet saturated a marketplace – e.g. cellular phones, PDA’s, digital cameras, etc
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define mature industy and give an example
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Mature industries produce products that command relatively stable sales from year to year and have a high level of competition – e.g. Apparel
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what are some Strategies for Success in Mature Industries?
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gain market share from the competition
have a Differential Advantage that will give you a competitive edge Lower price superior quality unique product features/exclusivity vertical integration |
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describe Vertical Integration
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Strategy that consolidates a supply chain by acquiring a company/companies at another stage in the chain
Fully vertical manufacturer seeks to control all the processes Can impact the firm’s competitive advantage |
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what are some Positive Impacts of Successful Vertical Integration?
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Right time – shortening of cycle times
Right product - Uniqueness/customized Right price – elimination of supply chain members results in lower costs |
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what are some advantages of Manufacturer-owned stores
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-aids to success in a mature industry
-Provides a mean of controlling the distribution of excess goods -Provides manufacturers with a direct link to their ultimate consumer |
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what are some advantages of Horizontal Integration? what are some examples?
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Acquisition of similar companies to expand market penetration and reduce competition
Can reduce costs Liz Claiborne purchasing Juicy Couture, Lucky Federated Department Stores acquiring May, creating Macy*s, Inc. |
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what dose Diversification help to do?
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-capitalize on brand equity
-Increase sales -Enhance efficiencies -Increase profit |
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true or fase- Diversification may be also be achieved through licensing or acquisition of other companies
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TRUE
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what is the World Trade Organization’s (WTO) purpose?
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abolish all trade restrictions--very important date for apparel trade.
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what is the differance between Production (Product Development) & Manufacturing?
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Production Includes everything that it takes to create and distribute products
-Involves many supply chain scenarios Manufacturing-The actual making of the goods in the factory |
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what dose an Agent do?
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Assume responsibility for linking product developers with offshore suppliers
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what do Factors do?
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Financial middlemen that finance suppliers/manufacturers
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what is Character licensing?
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granting of the right to use images to selected product developers in return for a fee – e.g. Mickey Mouse, BarbieHarry Potter, etc
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define Licensing
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when a Brand agrees to license the production of goods to another organization in return for a royalty
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what is a Private Label?
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Products that are developed and merchandised with labels owned by retailer – most is now developed by retailer’s own product development teams – many are perceived as “brands” by the consumer
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what is a Store Brand?
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Offer complete assortment of privately developed products under own label, e.g. GAP, J. Crew
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when was the Production Era?
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during the industrial revolution
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when was the Sales Era?
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early - mid 20th century
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when was the Marketing Era?
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late 20th century until present
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describe the Consumer Era
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when consumers are increasingly able to demand products tailored to them, “mass customization”
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what are some ways to forecasting consumer preferences?
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-Demographics
-Spending Habits -Psychographics -Life Stage (Life Cycle) -Lifestyle Segmentation |
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describe VALS
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tool for lifestyle segmentation
Segmentation identified through consumer surveys Segments are described by two dimensions, demographics and psychology: Consumers’ resources, e.g. income, education, etc. Primary motivation, e.g. ideals, achievement, etc. Achievement-motivated consumers strive to win approval of others Self-expressive-motivated people make choices that emphasize individuality |
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what are some of the VALS segmentations?
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-innovators
-thinkers -believers -achievers -strivers -experiencers -makers survivors |
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what are some Other Market Research Tools for Apparel Product Development?
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Trend Forecasting (Ch. 4)
Surveys (inc. online) Focus Groups Environmental Scanning POS Data Data Mining Wear Testing Style Testing |
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what is Wear-Testing
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-Used extensively in active sportswear, e.g. Adidas, Eddie Bauer
-Employees, good customers, celebrities asked to evaluate clothing items before major production takes place in order to modify garments and offer preferred styling, fit, fabric, etc. |
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what is Style Testing?
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-Allows retailers/consumers to view early prototypes and offer opinions
-Sometimes retail buyers are used, sometimes the end consumer via the Internet -Often companies style test by putting relatively small quantities into “test” stores to determine possible wider distribution |
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what are the 4 General Consumer Trends impacting Apparel Product Development?
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1.Limited Time – less time for shopping, buy apparel when needed, not before
2. Price-driven shopping– lack of store loyalty 3. Casual lifestyle everyday – consumers buy more ‘items’ than ‘outfits’ 4. Discretionary dollars used for ‘fashion’ apparel shopping – negative impact on apparel providers |
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what is The Fashion Cycle?
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-Introduction
-Growth -Acceleration -Saturation/Maturity -Decline -Obsolescence |
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When is the designer customer ready
to purchase? |
Designer lines want to be as near as possible to the introduction stage (high risk)
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When is the bridge/better customer ready
to purchase? |
growth stage(medium risk)
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when is the Discounters/mass merchants/moderate customer ready to purchase?
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saturation stage when volume will be high and prices are low (low risk)
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define Flop
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fashion rejected by all consumer segments almost immediately
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define fad
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fashion that is quickly accepted and quickly rejected
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define trend
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less obvious than fad but with powerful long term potential
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define Classic/Staple
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fashion that gains a high level and long duration of acceptance
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define Trickle-down theory
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New innovative fashions/styles originate in upper socioeconomic classes and are passed down (e.g. Paris couture)
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define Trickle-up
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Some unusual fashions/styles developed in lower socioeconomic classes, picked up by upper class and finally adopted by middle class (e.g. streetwear
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define Trickle-across
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A style can originate within any class and spread horizontally through the population to all groups (e.g. sneakers, athletic wear)
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what are some negative aspects of licensing
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-Potential/real loss of control
-Quality issues -Design issues -Licensee has insufficient capital and/or merchandise management expertise |
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what are some posotive aspects of licensing
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-Royalty fees 5-7%
-Way to expand the brand into new markets/worldwide -Access to specialty resources/expertise, e.g. shoes, jewelry, cosmetics, handbags, etc. |
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what is an example of couture (made to order)
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dior, chanel
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what is an example of designer ready-to-wear
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calvin kein, prada
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what is an example of bridge sportswear
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dana buchman, ellen tracy
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what is an example of better sportswear
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liz claiborn, GAP
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what is an example of moderate/opening price sportswear?
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sag harbor, cherokee, wal-mart brands
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what is the percentage of customers that but moderate/opening price sportswear?-- below the red line
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55%
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what are some long term Forecasting Influences?
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-Major demographic shifts
-Industry/market changes -Technological development -Domestic/global changes -Political, cultural, or economic alliances |
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what are some short term Forecasting Influences?
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Current events/arts/sports
Pop Culture Celebrities Movies Music TV shows |
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trend forcasters focus on what three areas?
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color
fabric/trim silhouetts |
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true or false Synthetics did not exist until just before 1900?
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true
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define flax/linien
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must be made 100% of flax; if other fibers present, called “linen-like”
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what is cotton used for?
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denim, drill, chino, madras, oxford, seersucker, toweling, corduroy, velveteen
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what is wool used for?
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challis, flannel, melton, tartan, worsted, tweed, fleece, cashmere, pashmina
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what is silk used for?
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brocade, georgette, satin, taffeta, velvet, velour, chiffon
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woven fabrics are constructed how?
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on looms
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what is a warp weave
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threads stretched lengthwise in a loom
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what is a weft weave?
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threads woven crosswise, under and over warp to make fabric
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how are Knit fabrics constructed
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on knitting machines
-Yarn is formed into interlocking loops Held on long “needles” on machine |
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define hide
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Skin from large animals
(ex: cowhide) |
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define skin
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skin from smaller animals (ex:pigskin)
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define fur
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Natural fabric; skin of an animal; with hair left on, most skins are known as fur
-Exceptions to this include sheepskin |
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sheer fabrics are used for what?
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Lingerie, bridal, evening, women’s hosiery
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light fabrics are used for what?
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Top weight” for shirts, blouses,dresses
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medium fabrics are used for what?
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Bottom weight for slacks, skirts
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med-heavy fabrics are used for what?
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Towels, overcoats, drapes, slipcovers
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what are heavy fabrics used for?
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Winter coats, upholstery, mats, rugs, carpets
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define Drape
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how a fabric hangs or falls and bends
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define hand
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tactile quality of fabric; affected by fiber content, construction and finishing
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define pattern
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created through fabric construction, e.g. jacquard, stripes;or through printing
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what is an example of fiber content?
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65% polyester/ 35% cotton; communicates serviceability – aesthetics, durability, comfort, care, etc
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what is a jacquard
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Jacquards are repeatable patterns woven or knitted right into the fabric on special jacquard machines
Example: pashmina/silk shawl with woven on jacquard handlooms in Nepal (photo) |
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what are product developer's options obtaining prints?
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-Selected from a mill’s/converter’s line and ordered
-Selected as above and modified -Purchased as fabric -paintings from a design studio -Designed in-house by product development organization |
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four forms of Mechanized Printing:
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-Screen printing
-Roller printing -Heat transfer and -Digital printing |
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how dose screen printing work
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-Applies dye through a mesh screen with areas blocked off, thus creating a pattern
-Different screens are created for each color -Can be used for fabrics or applied to finished garments such as T-shirts and sweatshirts -Fabric or garment moves along under a series of screen printing frames automatically |
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how dose rollder printing work?
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-Utilizes a steel cylinder with an outer layer of copper, into which a design is etched
-Each color in the print requires a separate engraved copper roll -Size of pattern is limited to maximum of 16ins. for apparel and 22 ins. for home furnishings |
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how dose heat transfer/thermal transfer printing work?
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-Dyes are first printed on a special transfer paper
-Paper is placed on fabric and then passed through a heat-transfer printing machine at about 400 degrees Fahrenheit -Temperature and pressure cause dye to transfer onto fabric -Produces bright, sharp, fine-line designs, but limited to fabrics with a minimum of 50% synthetic fibers. |
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how does digital printing work?
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-Applies patterns on fabric using computer printer technology
-Patterns created and stored in the computer can be selected , scaled and printed directly onto fabric -Primarily used to produce sample yardage and small runs -Great promise for mass customization |
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what percentage of garment costs depend on the type of fabric used?
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30-50%
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The cost difference between many high priced designer clothes and their less expensive “knock-offs” may be found mainly in the fabrics used- T or F?!
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TRUE
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DEFINE color
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the visual perception of certain wavelengths of light by the retina
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define hue
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How we distinguish one color family from another
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define Chroma
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Refers to a color’s saturation or amount of pigment – degree of departure from the neutral of same value
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define Chromatic Colors
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Colors that have a hue
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define Achromatic Colors
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Colors that are neutral (black, white, gray)
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define Value
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How we distinguish light colors from dark colors
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define Tints
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Light colors (achieved by mixing color with white or with water),also known as pastels
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define Shade
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Color mixed with black to decrease the value and darken the hue
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what is a warm color
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yellow, orange, red
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cool colors
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green, blue, violet
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t/f- When merchandise from several categories of same store/division is being offered, color stories must relate
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true
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define Seasonal Color Palettes
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often developed by the ‘fashion office’ with the influence of the design team
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what factors Relate Color Palettes to Target Markets
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-Age and Life Stage (children vs. matures)
-Fashion Level (couture, designer, mass markets) -Skin Tone -Ethnicity -Geographical Location -End use of apparel |
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what is the color approval process?
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-Seasonal color standards selected
-Master list developed with codes -Sourcing partners order standards for matching -Sourcing partners dye several samples of fabric in time to match standard *These samples are known as lab dips* |
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Lab dips are measured under at least 2 light sources – what are they?
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store lighting and daylight
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