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32 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Seiche |
the oscillation in the water level in a partially enclosed water body about a fixed node |
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Wave Steepness |
waves approaching a beach (H/L) |
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When H/L is larger than or equals 1/7, the wave becomes |
unstable |
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Breaking |
when a wave collapses forward |
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Spilling Breakers |
crest spills down the front of the wave, gradually depleting the waves energy as it moves across a wide surf zone |
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Surging Breakers |
low, flat waves that don't steepen or break, but smoothly rise and fall (reflected wave) |
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Plunging Breakers |
collapse forward releasing most of the wave's energy at once as it moves across a steeper and narrower surf zone |
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Refraction |
waves approaching a beach |
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________ change the shape and texture of a beach/shoreline |
breaking waves |
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Shoal |
touch bottom (waves decrease) |
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Waves generate: |
-longshore currents:flow parallel to beach -rip currents:flow perpendicular to beach |
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Swash and Backwash |
-swash: transports sand at an angle -backwash: transports sand down the beach slope |
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Longshore current |
angle of wave approach is the acute angle between the wave crest and the beach |
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Nearshore |
-breaker zone: where waves start to break -surf zone: where most of the energy is used up -swash zone: where the beach is covered and uncovered with each surge of water |
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Backshore |
berm: a prominent wave deposited feature of most beaches, accumulation of sand having a flat top surface |
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Beach profiles |
-swell: low energy -storm: high energy |
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Amphidromic Systems |
a rotary tidal wave in ocean basins |
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Tides are caused by the: |
gravitational pull of the sun, moon, and earth |
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_____ of the wave form is high tide and ____ is low tide |
crest, trough |
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Tidal range |
vertical difference between high and low tide |
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Tidal period |
consecutive time between high and low tide (varies between 12 hours and 25 minutes and 24 hours and 50 minutes) |
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Every object that has ___ in the universe is attracted to every other object |
mass |
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Gravitational force is _______ to product of masses |
proportional |
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_________ to square of separation distance |
inversely proportional |
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Zentih |
closest to moon, greatest force |
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Nadir |
furthest from moon, least force |
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Center-seeking force |
keeps planets in order via gravitational attraction |
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Resultant forces |
mathematical different between gravitational and centripetal forces (relatively small) |
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Barycenter |
between moon and earth, common center of mass |
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The moon exerts twice the ______ and ________ than the sun because it is closer |
gravitational force, tide generating force |
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Gravitational tidal bulges |
high tides created by the ocean being pulled by the moon and the sun |
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Centrifugal Effect |
the push outward from the rotation about the center of mass |
