Oceanography

Front 1

constructive interference

Back 1

The addition of wave energy as waves interact, producing larger waves.

Front 2

sea

Back 2

Simultaneous wind waves of many wavelengths forming a chaotic ocean surface. Sea is common in an area of wind wave origin.

Front 3

forced wave

Back 3

A progressive wave under the continuing influence of the forces that formed it.

Front 4

wave refraction

Back 4

Slowing and bending of progressive waves in shallow water.

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a. DEEP WATER WAVES
b. progressive wind waves

Back 5

a. **figure 10.6 p. 242
waves moving through
water deeper than 1/2
their wavelength
b. most common; wind waves grow from capillary waves

Front 6

transitional wave

Back 6

A wave moving through water deeper than 1/20 but shallower than 1/2 its wavelength.

Front 7

a. speed
b. duration
c. fetch

Back 7

**all 3 affect height of wave
*fetch: distance wind has to operate on water; figure 10.11 p. 245

Front 8

progressive wave

Back 8

A wave of moving energy in which the wave form moves in one direction along the surface (or junction) of the transmission medium (or media).

Front 9

a. wave height
b. wave period

Back 9

a. the vertical distance between a crest and the adjacent trough

b. the time it takes for a wave to move a distance of one wavelength

Front 10

orbital wave

Back 10

A progressive wave in which particles of the medium move in closed circles.

Front 11

fully developed sea

Back 11

The theoretical maximum height attainable by ocean waves given wind of a specific strength, duration, and fetch. Longer exposure to wind will not increase the size of the waves.

Front 12

shallow-water waves

Back 12

A wave in water shallower than 1/20 its wavelength.

Front 13

Stokes drift (orbital water motion)

Back 13

If particle speed decreases with depth, molecules in the top half of the orbit will move farther forward in the direction the wave is moving than molecules in the bottom half of the orbit will move backward.

Front 14

wave reflection

Back 14

The reflection of progressive waves by a vertical barrier. Reflection occurs with little loss of energy.

Front 15

wave train dynamics

Back 15

**figure 10.10 p. 244

Front 16

wave steepness

Back 16

Height-to-wavelength ratio of a wave. The theoretical maximum steepness of deep-water waves is 1:7.

Front 17

Pacific Ocean

Back 17

*has biggest waves (Hawaii)

Front 18

a. capillary waves
b. sea --- swell

Back 18

a. figure 10.8 p. 243; A tiny wave with a wavelength of less than 1.73 centimeters (0.68 inch), whose restoring force is surface tension; the first type of wave to form when the wind blows.

b. when waves come in all directions during storms; crazy waves --- break down by dispertion = turn into swells; swells can travel and last for weeks; tell when a storm is coming to shore;Mature wind waves of one wavelength that form orderly undulations of the ocean surface.

Front 19

orbital water motion

Back 19

**figure 10.1 & 10.3 p. 239
*deeper water = smaller circles
*take 1/2 of wave length = how deep wave goes

Front 20

rogue wave

Back 20

A single wave crest much higher than usual, caused by constructive interference.

Front 21

destructive interference

Back 21

The subtraction of wave energy as waves interact, producing smaller waves.

Front 22

standing wave

Back 22

A wave in which water oscillates without causing progressive wave forward movement. There is no net transmission of energy in a standing wave.

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wave interference

Back 23

Addition or subtraction of wave energy as waves interact. Also called resonance. See also constructive interference; destructive interference.

Front 24

wave frequency

Back 24

The number of waves passing a fixed point per second.

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a. crest
b. trough
c. wavelength

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a. the highest part of the wave about average water level

b. the valley between wave crests below average water level

c. horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs

Front 26

plunging wave

Back 26

Breaking wave in which the upper section topples forward and away from the bottom, forming an air-filled tube.

Front 27

dispersion

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*Separation of wind waves by wavelength (and therefore wave speed) as they move away from the fetch (the place of their formation). Dispersion occurs because waves with long wavelengths move more rapidly than waves with short wavelengths.

Front 28

wave train

Back 28

A group of waves of similar wavelength and period moving in the same direction across the ocean surface. The group velocity of a wave train is half the velocity of the individual waves.

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internal wave

Back 29

A progressive wave occurring at the boundary between liquids of different densities.

Front 30

spilling wave

Back 30

A breaking wave whose crest slides down the face of the wave.

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free wave

Back 31

A progressive wave free of the forces that formed it.

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orbit

Back 32

In ocean waves, the circular pattern of water particle movement at the air-sea interface. Orbital motion contrasts with the side-to-side or back-and-forth motion of pure transverse or longitudinal waves.