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42 Cards in this Set
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- Back
- 3rd side (hint)
Surface and ocean currents
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Surface- set In motion by atmos winds, have speeds 1/100th of winds, 5 years for surface water to cross ocean basin
Ocean-deflected by Coriolis effect, slower than winds |
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Gyres
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Centered at 30° lat
NH rotates clockwise SH rotates counter clockwise Shan |
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Windrows
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Series of parallel rows of debris lining up in the direction of the wind
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Langmuir cells
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Common wave generating forces
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Wind, atmos storms, ocean currents
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Most common restoring forces
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Surface tension, gravity
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Deep water waves
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Wave depth exceeds half of the wavelength, long deep water waves are faster, progressive wind waves
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Forced waves
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Generated by varying wind speed and direction in storms, forced waves far from the storm are called free waves
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In phase waves
Out of in phase waves |
When the crest of one wave is equal to the crest of another
When the crest of one wave is equal to the trough of another |
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Limits of max wave height
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Wind speed, wind duration, fetch (distance over which wind blows)
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Wave energy
Wave steepness |
Wave energy is directly proportional to wave height
Steepness is the ratio of wave height to wavelength |
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Surf zone
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Shallow coastal regions, waves slow down, steepen and break and dissipate as turbulence and spray
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Breakers
Plungers Spillers |
Breakers are classified as plungers and spillers
Plungers- curling crest outruns the rest of the wave and spills over Spillers- gradually move up the shallow bottom |
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Internal waves
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Generated by low pressure, change of ocean currents, currents moving over sea bottom
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Single node standing wave
Two node standing wave |
Node is in the middle, antinodes are at the end
Nodes are 1/4 and 3/4 distance, antinodes are in the middle and at the end |
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Tsunami
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Causes by earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, landslides, meteors, comets or asteroid impacts, shallow water waves, low steepness, slows down and shortens in shallow water, sea recedes if trough is leading edge, flooding occurs if crest is leading edge
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Diurnal tides
Semi-diurnal Mixed tides |
One high and one low tide per day
Two high and low tides per day Two high and low tides of unequal water levels per day |
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Rising tides
Falling tides |
Called flood tides
Called ebb tides |
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Diurnal tides
Semi-diurnal Mixed tides |
One high and one low tide per day
Two high and low tides per day Two high and low tides of unequal water levels per day |
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Rising tides
Falling tides |
Called flood tides
Called ebb tides |
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New moon
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Spring tide
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Diurnal tides
Semi-diurnal Mixed tides |
One high and one low tide per day
Two high and low tides per day Two high and low tides of unequal water levels per day |
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Rising tides
Falling tides |
Called flood tides
Called ebb tides |
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New moon
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Spring tide
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First quarter moon
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Neap tide
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Diurnal tides
Semi-diurnal Mixed tides |
One high and one low tide per day
Two high and low tides per day Two high and low tides of unequal water levels per day |
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Rising tides
Falling tides |
Called flood tides
Called ebb tides |
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New moon
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Spring tide
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First quarter moon
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Neap tide
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Full moon
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Spring tide
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Diurnal tides
Semi-diurnal Mixed tides |
One high and one low tide per day
Two high and low tides per day Two high and low tides of unequal water levels per day |
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Rising tides
Falling tides |
Called flood tides
Called ebb tides |
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New moon
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Spring tide
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First quarter moon
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Neap tide
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Full moon
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Spring tide
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Last quarter
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Neap tide
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Diurnal tides
Semi-diurnal Mixed tides |
One high and one low tide per day
Two high and low tides per day Two high and low tides of unequal water levels per day |
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Rising tides
Falling tides |
Called flood tides
Called ebb tides |
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New moon
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Spring tide
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First quarter moon
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Neap tide
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Full moon
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Spring tide
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Last quarter
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Neap tide
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Tidal bores
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Bay of fundy in Nova Scotia
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