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24 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back
distance between crests
wavelength
vertical distance between crests and troughs
height
time for successive waves to pass a fixed point
period
waves do not interact with sea floor
deep-water waves
waves "feel" the ocean floor
shallow-water waves
bending of a line of wave crests
refraction
waves refract, bending toward headlands. Increases erosive power of waves on headlands.
headlands
sediment carried by swash and backwash along the beach
longshore drift
currents parallel to the beach within the surf zone
longshore currents
from where the waves begin to feel bottom to the surf zone
offshore
includes the surf zone, tidal flats, and swash zone
foreshore
from beyond the swash zone to the highest level of the beach
backshore
the inputs and outputs of sediment by erosion and sedimentation
sand budget
(jetties, groins) typically cause increased erosion down current of structure
structural prevention
(beach nourishment, land use planning) expensive, but don’t cause erosion in new areas
nonstructural prevention
far from a plate boundary (Eastern North America), little tectonic activity
passive coastal margin
associated with subduction. (Western North America, western South America)
active coastal margin
SOund, Navigation, And, Ranging
SONAR
movement of rock bodies past each other
earthquake
location of the earthquake movement
fault
site of initial rupture. Also called hypocenter
focus
point on surface above the focus
epicenter
the study of the travel of mechanical energy (released by earthquakes and explosions) through the Earth
seismology
an instrument used to measure the ground motion during an earthquake
seismograph