Glossary - Chemical Texture Services

Front 1

perm with a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 that process at room temperature and do not require added heat of a hair dryer; process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

Back 1

acid-balanced waves

Front 2

permanent waves that process at room temperature without addition of heat; most have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6.

Back 2

alkaline waves or cold waves

Front 3

perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odour associated with their use.

Back 3

ammonia-free waves

Front 4

main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

Back 4

ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

Front 5

oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing.

Back 5

base cream

Front 6

position of tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which hair is wrapped.

Back 6

base control

Front 7

angle at which the tool is positioned on head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.

Back 7

base direction

Front 8

relaxers that require application of base cream to the entire scalp prior to application of relaxer.

Back 8

base relaxers

Front 9

subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one tool is normally placed on each base section.

Back 9

base sections

Front 10

perm wrap in which all tools within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm tool.

Back 10

basic perm wrap

Front 11

perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

Back 11

bookend wrap

Front 12

perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row

Back 12

bricklay perm wrap

Front 13

process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form.

Back 13

chemical hair relaxing

Front 14

hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of hair

Back 14

chemical texture services

Front 15

perm rods that have a smaller circumference in the centre that increases to a larger circumference on the ends

Back 15

concave rods

Front 16

perms in which hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp, in overlapping layers

Back 16

croquignole perms

Front 17

perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

Back 17

curvature perm wrap

Front 18

side bonds between the polypeptide chains in the cortex; join cysteine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with cysteine sulfur atoms on neighbouring polpeptide chains to form cystine, the oxidized form of cysteine.

Back 18

disulfide bonds

Front 19

perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one paper over, the strand of hair being wrapped

Back 19

double flat wrap

Front 20

perm wrap in which two tools are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other

Back 20

double tool (piggyback) technique

Front 21

perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer

Back 21

endothermic waves

Front 22

absorbent papers used to control the ends of hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools

Back 22

end papers or end wraps

Front 23

perm that creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing

Back 23

exothermic waves

Front 24

main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions that effectively reduces the pH

Back 24

glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

Front 25

base control in which hair is wrapped at 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to its base section and tool is positioned half off its base section

Back 25

half-off-base placement

Front 26

relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools

Back 26

hydrogen bonds

Front 27

relaxers with a very high pH, sometimes over 13

Back 27

hydroxide relaxers

Front 28

process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; it breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair.

Back 28

lanthionization

Front 29

perms that work at low pH and uses sulfates, sulfites, ad bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate

Back 29

low-PH waves

Front 30

ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen

Back 30

metal hydroxide relaxers

Front 31

process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in its new form by the application of a chemical solution called the neutralizer.

Back 31

neutralization

Front 32

relaxers that do not require application of a protective base

Back 32

no-base relaxers

Front 33

conditioners with an acidic pH that condition hair and restores natural pH prior to shampooing

Back 33

normalizing solutions

Front 34

base control in which hair is wrapped at 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and tool is position on its base section.

Back 34

on-base placement

Front 35

chemical bonds that join amino acids together

Back 35

peptide or end bonds

Front 36

amino acid chains joined together by peptide bonds

Back 36

polypeptide chains

Front 37

relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; are easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal

Back 37

salt bonds

Front 38

perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped

Back 38

single flat wrap

Front 39

combination of thio relaxers and thio permanents that are wrapped on large tools; used to make existing curl larger and looser

Back 39

soft curl permanents

Front 40

perms in which the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the tool; depending on the tool, the hair may be wound from the scalp toward the ends or from the ends toward the scalp

Back 40

spiral perms

Front 41

perm wrap done at an angle that causes hair to spiral along the length of tool; particularly effective on longer, thicker hair

Back 41

spiral perm technique

Front 42

perm rods that are equal in circumference along their entire length or curling area

Back 42

straight rods

Front 43

colourless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odour; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions

Back 43

thioglycolic acid

Front 44

relaxers that usually have a pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ammonium thioglyolate than is used in permanent waving

Back 44

thio relaxers

Front 45

perm that uses an ingredient other than ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent

Back 45

thio-free waves

Front 46

perms that have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and requires heat to speed processing; process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl

Back 46

true acid waves

Front 47

wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas

Back 47

weave technique